We used to do this on 1:35 scale Tamiya German armour in the early 1970s. The only difference was using modelling "body putty" as the base and, more significantly, model railway scale corrugated iron sheets as the stencil. Search Google for "OO Model Railway Corrugated Metal Panels". They held an advantage over a comb in that they smoothed the paste or putty level during application when butted up to the kit plastic and excess was removed and gathered up the corrugated metal away from the applicator end to be periodically cleaned off. There was no Zimmerit molded into kits back then AFAIK. The same errors were made then as in this video in that when the stencil (comb) is not moved strictly vertically and horizontally the pattern is inaccurate. The original full scale Zimmerit in the modeled pattern was applied with a straight edge of fixed width and that is what the finished result should look like - not wobbly as in this case and as often was the case back then when strict vertical and horizontal movement was not applied during application. It isn't easy and requires much care and a steady hand.

Very good, clever stuff, both your input and the product thankyou,all the best Rob London boy

you can dissolve miilliput with iso 99% to use for fine cracks as well. highly useful for warhammer 40k models fixing the cracks with regular milly then going back with some dissolved to fix indents or whatever (things like the bottom of tyranids which arent really a crack for milly to get stuck in just a weird crease)

Very informative and interesting. Thank you

Go try this on my 1/16 tiger

Ma non passi il primer di base e poi lo zimmerit sopra ?

Would you use the same procedure for 1/16 scale tanks ?

If you're anything like me, milliput is not harmless! I often get an allergic reaction when using it uncured. Usually 5 hours after mixing and settling it is perfectly fine for me to use. If you have been having seemingly random allergic reactions, see if it's your milliput. I originally was fine after using it, but after 3 or 4 months I began to have mild allergic reactions. It eventually turned into something much more serious! Have fun :D

I have found if you give your hands a really good soapy wash prior to starting, the Milliput won't stick to your fingers as bad.

Very useful video, appreciate your time and effort, thank you.

This is so cheap lol! In France it's like 15-20€/box

I have a great deal of respect for this guy. Ex Royal Green Jackets, British Army and now a professional, talented modeller with one of the best model shops in the UK 🇬🇧. I have, prior to the last, small business wrecking, pointless lockdown, visited his shop and marvelled at the truly remarkable, impressive kits he has completed. He is a subject matter expert of the first order, very helpful and an overall top bloke.

You make it look so easy! Thanks for the video.

i like that voice from england,thanks for the tuto

HI, I d love to rubber stamp into milliput, can you tell me what is the best kind to use? Thanks

Why is it whenever I watch anything to do with milliput, you're guaranteed to see sandbags being made. What is it with sandbags! Lol.

Looking good - more please! :-)

Looks very useful!!! Do you need to glue it on your model and do you need primer before painting it?

How to calibrate?

great tutorial, got the confidence to have a go now ,cheers

As this stuffs sands down beautifully, I got to ask- Why buy dearer types of Milliput when the bog standard stuff can be sanded smooth?

Great video. Super clear on how this is done

Very informative, exactly what I was looking for. Thanks !

Is 'No nails adhesive' the same as 'Liquid nails adhesive'?

Very helpful. I was interested in the quality of the result, not having tried a wooden kit. Their whole range suits the era I’m aiming at. Thanks for providing a good review.

Fantastic looking kit, may have to visit their website

Same mere pass h

Thanks for the tutorial, really useful. How are the branches creared on the panther in the end of the video? Thanks, in advance.

Thank you, looks like this is for me.

Great tutorial! Simple and straightforward technique. I just subscribed, please keep these great videos coming! Cheers!

The paste was composed of the following: 40 % Barium sulfate - BaSO4 25 % polyvinyl acetate - PVA (similar to wood glue) 15 % pigment (ochre) 10 % Zinc sulfide - ZnS 10 % sawdust Radiocontrast agent - Barium sulfate - BaSO4 Main article: Barium sulfate suspension Barium sulfate in suspension is frequently used medically as a radiocontrast agent for X-ray imaging and other diagnostic procedures. It is most often used in imaging of the GI tract during what is colloquially known as a "barium meal". It is administered orally, or by enema, as a suspension of fine particles in a thick milk like solution (often with sweetening and flavoring agents added). Although barium is a heavy metal, and its water-soluble compounds are often highly toxic, the low solubility of barium sulfate protects the patient from absorbing harmful amounts of the metal. Barium sulfate is also readily removed from the body, unlike Thorotrast, which it replaced. Due to the relatively high atomic number (Z = 56) of barium, its compounds absorb X-rays more strongly than compounds derived from lighter nuclei. Luminescent material - Zinc sulfide - ZnS Zinc sulfide, with addition of few ppm of suitable activator, exhibits strong phosphorescence (described by Nikola Tesla in 1893 [3]), and is currently used in many applications, from cathode ray tubes through X-ray screens to glow in the dark products. When silver is used as activator, the resulting color is bright blue, with maximum at 450 nanometers. Using manganese yields an orange-red color at around 590 nanometers. Copper gives long-time glow, and it has the familiar greenish glow-in-the-dark. Copper-doped zinc sulfide ("ZnS plus Cu") is used also in electroluminescent panels.[4] It also exhibits phosphorescence due to impurities on illumination with blue or ultraviolet light.

nice video, nice sound and narrator. thankyou for not using annoy song

Feb. 2018--Thank you for a good, informative video. Got back into modeling in late 2016 and want to make a bunch of civilians wearing bags, pouches, etc. along with straps for them. Found that by mixing some baby powder with Milliput, there's little chance of it sticking to your modeling desk/mat. I also found this stuff is a lot easier to roll around using a sheet of glass instead of my desk/mat. Capes can be made by making the length/width you want, then using a rolled up paper towel or several sheets of toilet paper so if the figure is running, the cape will look like it's billowing in the wind behind the figure.

www.ebay.com/itm/302541919592?_trksid=p2471758.m4704

It's crap stay brittle never ever drys

I like milliput smell when I work with it

An excellent tutorial Sibo. I look forward to many more. Regards from Norfolk (where we miss a really good model shop!) Peter

nice review..I think. i will try this miliput stuff good video.👍

nice review..I think. i will try this miliput stuff good video.👍

good video

Wher do i get a zimmerit

Thanks so much for this video, I think its going to make applying the zimmerit to my Academy Tiger model so much easier than I expected.

Can you apply Vaseline on a cured piece of milliput so it won't stick to itself? For example, if you wanted to create formfitting detachable armor. Thanks for the upload!

nice!

Very handy and easy technique :)

Went to use Milliput for the first time a couple of weeks ago with intention of making tarps, bed rolls and seat cushions for a Humvee. The seat cushions was my first attempt, but after cutting the length/width I wanted, but when I went to pick the Milliput up, it started tearing/coming apart. Re-rolled it and left it on my modeling mat.....where I found it stuck to the mat! Tried it again, this time leaving it on my modeling desk, same result. What am I doing wrong?

what paint should you use

what is the substance white cream ?

can i use it for zimmerit????

very usefull vid thx alot :P