You are awesome!

Holy crap i miss the old cars

Hose type is a Dayco 87810

What belt tensioning removal tool did you use?

I have a 2002 chevy impala non - abs the auto part store use a 34mm impact socket but I'm watching the the guy says 36 mm socket can anyone tell the right size socket

Thanks for doing this video! Saved me alot of time!!!

I’m having problem where the hood won’t close

Much love bro. Spank you.

Genius

most guys today cant add oil you sir are a badass.

I find this after 7 years. We got the 06 Touareg V8 in 2017 with 106k. I had the dealer do timing belt, water pump, thermostat. Now in may 2024 its got 163k. Noisy cam tensioners at start up, and exhaust flex pipe is leaking a lot of noise. And the front diff has a bad axel bearing, making it noisy on accel & decel only. Its got a sweet spot that is noise free. Time to pull motor out. I really like this SUV. Except the 15 mpg. I have done the brakes, & frequent oil changes. It still drives great. New AGM battery too.

not as easy as you make it…was easier if you remove the front wheel and inner platic well. the fun part will be trying to put it back correctly..but your video was a good guideline txs

Hi, anyone got the part number? And is this the same for a FWD 5 spd? Thanks!

thankfully this video exists talking about 4 tdc compression!! of course 1 and 4 are companions but a novice could get freaked out eith ervyone talking about 1 tdc comp. when their haynes manual calls for 4 tdc compression!

Thanks so much for making this video. Just did mine and it came out great!

yo any know the sizes of the bolts and the tensioner

a friend just had this problem .he saw your video but was a bit unsure about doing it. I offered to help . I already had the tap so we tapped the hole ,put in a barb fitting and got the same part number hose . All done, all good and no leaks. Thank you very much for posting this vid.

I followed your protocol for the most part and replaced my first alternator in roughly 1 1/2 - 2 hours. The only thing I did differently was I removed the front passenger tire / splash guard so I could access the serpentine belt/tensioner easier. For anyone who hasn't done this before I'd highly suggest you do the same. Its hard to visualize what you're doing from the top, especially when you're seeing it for the first time. Go buy a floor jack and some jack stands, they're only an extra $100 if you don't already have them and if you're doing the repair yourself you're saving way more than that. One more thing that I'll mention is that the tensioner is actually a 1/2 drive I believe. In this video, it's a small square opening right above the bolt you see when he uses the serpentine belt tool. I personally bought a ratcheting serpentine wrench kit from Harbor Freight. It was a little extra than what you see him using in yhe video but it's worth it IMO. Also - REMOVE THE OIL DIP STICK. I snapped mine during this repair as it's in the way. Anyway, all said and done, $240 for the alternator, $60 for the serpentine belt tool, $100 for a floor jack/jack stands, and $150 for a new battery. $550 all said and done, even with all the extras still paid less than a mechanic and have tools for the rest of my life.

The bolts I'm seeing sure ain't 7mm, imperial bs

You said you used a 3/4 pex by 1/2 thread brass plumbing fitting?

This dude is awesome 😎

When your timing your 07 dodge Magnum is the #1 piston up or down

Very detailed video 😂

👍👍👍👍👍👍the best thing i have seen

Thanks again 👍👍👍

I bought a new motor but unsure the exact model to none of the ac compressor I use don’t fit im on my way to Lowe’s now I will let y’all know how it goes

Are you getting my messages?

I have an 06 Touareg 4.2 L and its showing a cam position sensor... it starts intermittently and has a rough idle at times.. any thoughts?

what is the housing called and what is the oem pipe name got the same prob on my 07 f150 4.2l v6

what is the housing called and what is the oem pipe name got the same prob on my 07 f150 4.2l v6

why is cylinder #2 a common problem on the 1mz-fe engine?

Wow… thanks man. I have to replace the alternator to a 2011 Chrysler 200 convertible that was given to me two weeks ago with only 78,000 miles on it. It was great for two weeks and now the alternator is gone. I usually don’t work on American cars so I am thinking about doing this method instead of messing with the AC condenser

All in all a great video. I've not done one if these as yet but got talked into it by a chick for a friend of hers. I'm a good mechanic but was already dreading the Chrysler front wheel drive adventure with the battery in front of the drivers wheel. ( Two door convertible ) I'm a little spoiled with the lifts and all and driveway stuff just ain't my bag any longer. Anyway, straight to the point video and appreciate you posting it. Not gonna be a big deal. Thank the good Lord! Doing this on too of a 60 hour job with all the talking heads in the driveway having their must be important opinions on how to do it. Drives me bananas. They buss tables. I make a 150k a year working on cars. I guess I just never know what I'm doing.

Very bad vedio operation. You’re not seeing things you point to off camera. Bumper removal already done before vedio starts. This is crap.

I though I heard you say bank 2, bank 1 is passanger side

The one I'm working on wasn't 7mm bokts hokding the wire harnes. It was 1/4". 7mm was so loose, it didn't grab the bolts. I'm at the part where I need to take the radiator hose off now. Now I know the fan plugs have to pry the hook flap away to slide it open, when others have to squeeze down on the release to release them.

Nothing is easy about a chrystler 200. Really stupid designs... for crying out loud I gotto remove the damn tire just to get to the battery.... this is more work than any other car I've owned for a damn alternator

4 hours or so, start with car on ramps, remove passenger front tire, remove bracket that holds power steering, remove power steering bolts under pulley, there are 3 of them, 2 on outside. Use Jack to raise lower engine after removing the T-45 and both upper lower engine mounts. A/C hose is in the way the whole time, but can be done without removing it. Disconnect upper radiator hose. 3 main bolts on timing chain cover, have to raise/lower to get them all. Use T40 to remove the pulley once you get the timing chain cover removed. Putting it back together is much easier if you dont get the bolts mixed up. Re-add power steering fluid. Run it to get air out, re-add power steering fluid. Also need a long bar or something to apply pressure to tension pulley to get belt back on.

Hey message me plz

So how do you get the lifter out when the top is broken off I have one of those pillars in it snap the top off of it just like what you've got but I see you got yours out I'm trying to figure out how to do that without pulling the can

Everything in the fking world 🌍 to open it 👍😂👍😂👍 Believe it or not our Murano is in the shop for the same thing too. Thank you for sharing this video with us all 👍👍👍👍

Thank you. I was able to repair this on a 2000 4.2l f150. No leaks. Success.

Bout to try this on my 04 town car.

That thing just cracks easy when removing. Thanks for uploading this kind of manifold.

So what’s the placement of cylinder one ? Is it facing the engine from left to right?

I have the exact same issue on my truck but my question to you, sir is. Tapping out that hole going to put metal shavings in the motor? Is that not a concern?

I need to know about a 2000

I thumbs down because this is a video of how to remove the bumber, and you start the damn video with the bumper already removed!

Taking off tire and unbolting the a.c compressor is so much easier. You can do it in under 15 min when removing a.c compressor

The temperature sensors are not there? Where did they relocate them?