Thanks for your feedback. I don’t think I’ve noticed any flex. Chattering can be caused by lack of sharpness or maybe if you’re digging in; consider adding a very slight back bevel if you’re using it bevel up.

@@DRwoodworking Thank you very much!

A lot of the video is sped up (there’s an bb indicator on the bottom right corner). Apart from that, speed comes with practice automatically; don’t aim for speed, aim for accuracy and the rest will follow.

@@DRwoodworking I was mostly joking, but thank you for the reply and the advice. Even in fast forward you can tell you aren't working hurriedly. But, I did not see the "4x" until you mentioned it, because it is covered up by the "fullscreen" button for making the video fullscreen. Anyway I enjoyed the video because it is one of the comprehensive on youtube for this chair, thank you

The shaving horse? It’s the one Tim Manney promoted (see www.finewoodworking.com/project-guides/shop-projects/build-thoroughbred-shaving-horse) but lots of different option available; check for shaving or shave horse or even shaving pony for a vice mounted option.

They call them dovetail chisels, the sides run pretty thin. Some call fishtail or skew chisels dovetail chisels. Aren’t the long Narex ones paring chisels?

@@DRwoodworking I’m not sure, probably. They do have the very thin sides which gives great clearance for cleaning up the dovetails. But the length. Just a little hard to control. For the price though they are exceptional. I just can’t wrap my head around paying $800+ for IBC or Lea Neason. Over $100 a chisel. Insanity

@@Carpenters_Canvas it's often a matter of cost per time of use; if you're using a chisel day in day out and it gives superior performance or enjoyment of use, $130 for a chisel is not unreasonable; in the vast majority of cases, a full set is not needed anyway, a 1/4" and a wider 3/4" or 1" chisel go a long way. There's a middle ground above the really cheap ones and below premium with Ashley Iles, Narex Richter and some other brands at $30-40 for a chisel. Regular Narex seem to be subpar, but still preferable over the cheapest sets.

Hey there. I haven’t used the new ones enough to be able to reasonably judge them. I think they will all work. I’m most comfortable with the vintage one, but those can be tricky to get into working condition if they are damaged or pitted. The shave horse is the one Tim Manney has plans for. It’s been serving me very well. Cheers

It’s about 1“; you can go bigger, but 1.5“ might be a bit too big for a stool like that; maybe for a staked table. You can go under 1“, though 3/4 might already be too small.

That’s the Star-M 25mm one. Fine tools sell them.

@@DRwoodworking Thank you

Normalerweise hätte ich das einfach geglättet (geputzt). Traditionell hätte man ggf. die Unterseite lediglich mit dem Schrupphobel aus der rohen Bohle ausgehobelt und es dabei belassen. Das ist dann weniger Arbeit. In dem Fall, das anschließend zu tun, ergibt sich eine haptisch etwas interessantere Oberfläche.

I should have remembered to keep the line marked with the auger; if you work right to it, it’s too much already.

Sometimes, depending on the cut. Check that linked Galbert video for more background on bevel up and down drawknives. In general, bevel up is for flattening or gentle scoping cuts; bevel down for concave cuts.

What makes you think so? Depends on prepared for what. Producing an entertaining video? No. Prepared to take people along on how I sharpen these. More likely. :)

I prefer the Stubai, but keep in mind I haven’t used either for a longer period of time. Stay tuned for a test of the Pfeil drawknife coming in any day.

Nice, thanks! @@DRwoodworking that´s the one I got last year. So far very good tool

Depends on the cut, but yes, it can be.

I hear you. I plan to use a mic next time. I’m also not used to talking on camera, but I hope that gets better with practice. The subtitles might actually help. Thank you for your understanding.

I think that is a little rude as a comment

Yes, it's rude, but for you, it should be a rude awakening that someone (me) was interested enough to click on your presentation, which was lousy. So, improve your presentation or two really rude words are for you.

@@trumpetflowerII it was great that you should spend your valuable time to write a comment, I think a less rude and more constructive feedback would have been an even better use of your time and produced a better outcome. It is appropriate though for me to say that it isn't my place to tell you how to use your time. My momma always told me 'if you can't say something nice or nicely then don't say it'

Let's see if you improve with criticism.@@happychappy2b252

I started filing the cap iron, but need to do quite a bit more and I wasn't sure there'll be enough material left. I saw a review where they did it and it looked fine, so I may do that or better yet, grind it. May want to file the blade bed as well, as it's rough. With favorable grain, it kinda worked out of the box, but without experience, it's bound to be a frustrating experience rather sooner than later.

I believe it’s commonly called a stair saw in English, being used to cut dados for treads. In German it’s called a Gratsäge, specifically used to cut this joint which is called a Gratverbindung („grat“ joint), but possibly also for dado walls.

It’s to practice chisel skills mostly, possibly sharpening and also learn about how a certain lumber works; there are considerable differences between different species. Give it a try. :)

A demonstration of correct chisel use in safett, an absolute rule of reason tools' sharpness, utmost patience, exercising of self discipline -- in terms if maintaining composure-- and why this work should not be hurried to achieve such result.

It’s just an exercise block to practice chisel skills. It does teach a fair bit about a wood species as well.

That’s a spoon gouge. I got mine from Petrograd tools, but might be difficult to get. I know there are blacksmiths that make them, but at least Pfeil/Swiss made offer them as well. I’d have to check for other brands.

I didn’t do a lot of dovetail work recently and have a different set of everyday chisels I use. I’d actually recommend the Narex Richter over these, as those are not a limited run, so you can expect to get replacements for a long time and probably will do all these here could. There may be a 0.5% chance someone will run into a situation where the Two Cherries will be able to do something the Narex can’t. :)

Yeah, fair enough. Richter are about the same price and might be a better purchase. Two Cherries isn’t all bad though. Did you have negative experiences with their tools in the past?

Thanks. It is a flat bottom one. The protruding blade and the edges of the sole form a shallow segment of a circle so it's possible to cut fairly good sized convex shapes. The round bottom one is for much tighter radii and I understand it's much harder to control and use; I haven't used mine much at all. A rasp is often an easier solution.

Heh, thanks. I would not have been able to find the space for a pole with a room height of about 6‘. There can be slippage, but only with heavy pieces or very small diameters so it’s rare. I meant to try some lawn mower starting cord, but this one wears so slowly, usually I only have to replace it if it catches the tool edge when I wasn’t paying attention.

I understand the Schlichthobel has a noticeable camber, but not a severe one. Maybe what a Jack plane would get. Might depend on the intended use as well. The one I have here is fairly minimal. I haven’t found a lot on that plane either, only repetition of a few standard phrases and marketing text. It’s rarely used by professional cabinet makers if at all.

@@DRwoodworking thanks for your reply

👍👍👍🇮🇩🤝

German hobby woodworker here. I have been mostly watching woodworking videos by US KZbinrs, so by now I am way more familiar with the Stanley system of planes, so that is what I got over the years. Plus, I never really got the hang of setting up the wooden planes you usually get over here. That being said, the way I understand the German way of doing things is this. For warped and/or very roughly sawn wood, you start off with the schrupphobel which has a very noticeable camber, basically like a scrub plane with only one iron and no chip breaker. Plus, the iron is not very wide, maybe 1 5/16". The next plane to to touch the wood is the schlichthobel. If the wood is not too warped or the saw marks are not too bad, you can directly use that one and skip the schrupphobel. Again, this will only have one iron but apparently, it will not have a camber or if so the radius will be less pronounced. Plus, the iron will be a bit wider. The German Wikipedia has a nice picture under the entry for schlichthobel. After that you will come in with a raubank (or rauhbank) for jointing but also for doing double duty of what you're trying to achieve with the schlichthobel. The raubank will have a chip breaker and a much wider iron. The last plane to touch the wood is the putzhobel, so it's like smoothing plane. This too will have a chip breaker. I hope this helps.

So, in Stanley terms, the schrupphobel would be like a no. 40. The schlichthobel would be like a mixture between a no. 40 and a no. 5, depending on the wood. Something like the no. 5 doesn’t seem to be used over here, which I find kind of odd, now that I’ve come to adopt the metal planes. Anyways, the raubank would be like a no. 6, 7 or 8. Sometimes, when somebody sells a no. 5 on ebay or something, they’ll also call it raubank which I find confusing since it’s maybe a little short for jointing, but then again it is not called the jack plane for nothing. The putzhobel would be like a no. 4 or no. 3. Hope that also helps.

That was to get three boards from it. At ~12“ wide probably more a band saw task, but I have neither that, nor a table saw, nor a planer (and no space for any of these) so I have to make do. Also no need to go to a fitness center after that. 😀