Oh no! Well you're good at it now.

@@chrisalwin1 I am haha the first time an install article said rubber hammer the thing in and it destroyed the oring. Also always stick with Dorman as many have learned the cheap ones leak. Have you had issues with the front pipe seating properly?

I didn't have an issue with the front pipe. And I think the Oring was not to be lubed. It's been a bit since I did it. I lubed it but after I saw the instructions that came with the part said not to.

@@chrisalwin1 I just checked my instructions and it says lubercate with light oil. Maybe that's an update.

lots of questions...does it go into recirculate or fresh when you turn the heat on? Do you get good flow from defrost vents? Also, make sure the blend doors do what they are supposed to do. The fresh blend door housing was broken on this one causing the door to hang up I believe. That wont cause low flow but the heater was blowing cool cause it was pulling fresh air in all the time. I would guess that its stuck in a blend of the doors. has to be. make sure that it selects the vents the way its intended.

all things are equal when I compare the cool and hot. Doors seem to work as they should, all the ones I could see. Dodge wants to tear the dash apart, they said the heater core would be plugged up, well it looks like new. It all looks clean in there and working as it should. The flow is the same out any vent or defrost or floor, low on heat and good flow on cool. Thank you for your reply. @@chrisalwin1

Also there are easier ways to do the job. I was green when I did it but have done it since using other KZbinr videos. The dash comes off complete without disassembly.

My driver side blows cool passenger side wants to blow hot but dang I got no heat pops said the core is good he can feel the water going through and both lines get hot actuator that’s by glove box is working fine can ya please help me out

Yeah in my haste I actually did it but I thought it was funny enough to make a video. Cheers!

There has been a lot.of problems with the wiring on this truck. Many of the wires had lost.their insulation causing arcing.and shorts. The harness has been changed since by the dealer but I would.like to run through the test again. Thanks for the interest I will see if the new harness changed the relief pressures.

@@chrisalwin1 Thanks for the reply I’m having 333 code I changed the pressure valve in the front cover no change new ipr new Hpop not oem I believe with 500 miles injecter orings replaced

@@johnWick-in2gk could be a bad injector

Maybe?

Como lo resolviste, tengo un problema similar, injectores recien reparados y ipr nueva y sigue con la falla de baja presion

I don't think they get together as much as we think. Just a guess but I think the AC engineer and the body engineer and the electrical engineer build the individual components. If there is a problem with fitment that's when they get feedback. I feel the same as you!

@@chrisalwin1 My 2018 had the same issue, but lucky the old back flush method fixed it so it was probably just before getting bad enough to have to do this. Company is about to replace it so I hope there are no more issues before its traded off on a new one. Company never keeps them past 100k until the last 2 years and Ram stopped making work trucks. I am trying to get him to switch to GM because they are still making work trucks. I was told if they disable the AFM they are pretty decent trucks. Anyway I feel for you with jobs like that, but much respect you still got it done while most would pass on the job:P

It’s a 2018 Ram 2500 (same artic white too)

The one I had wasn't blowing warm enough either. Seemed like weak air flow. But the heater core was pretty clean when I opened up. The thing I did find was the fresh air door was broken. It was letting outside air in all the time.

You can see the fresh/recirculation door behind the glove box. See if it actuates correctly

@@chrisalwin1 yes it closes then opens pushing the recirc button. Another thing I checked that suspect is top heater core line is 180s the return is 140s. Oddly enough that’s the difference between passenger and driver heat.

@@chrisalwin1 thank you for your thoughts!

It's been a while but I believe the blend door for the fresh air was the problem.

Please share. I didn't know of a better way. Thanks for the feedback!

@Al Mach yeah, no. The dash doesn't need to be broken down like that! You only need to remove the center console, kick panel trim on both sides, dash end trim both sides, both A-pillar trims, and the knee bolster. After that, 3 bolts at each side, 2 at the center on trans hump and 2 at windshield. Lift and tilt. Full access to the box to pull it.

😂 have patience

Yep it's me! How you doing.

@@chrisalwin1I talk like that too 😂

Not as easy as some. If you take out the oil line and fitting to the top of the filter head, pull the wires out from behind and use the correct length extension it makes it easier.

Yes! se have done this on several of these trucks in the fleet

We

Sounds good . I'll order my replacement and will see .. they just ask a shit ton at dealership to replace it