Nice job

Looks like, in the original scheme the bases of PNPs on the top must operate at the voltage range from VCC to VCC-0.6 volt. The VCC is 12 Volts. If you give 12 volts to the 3V pin, then the pin will be blown.

i was waiting for the part where you talk about audio and how to connect a dial (for a phone) - but this project is about phoning home - not phoning at home :D

Excellent work!

This is the perfect solution for hobbyists with this problem who dont want to just buy a special IC mosfet driver.

It would be nice to have a link to the code so we can make the project. There's nothing on your github link

Thank you!

You could use mdns to find the devices. And then you shoud have authentication system. Especially if you are using it for doors etc. Esp should allways ask for password/key from the server.

Great content - thanks !

Hello! I know that n-channel mosfet leakage current decrease if you apply negative voltage to the gate. Does it decrease enough to be of use? For example when driving T12 cartriges, where thermocouple is in series with the heater, some transistors have several microvolts to several hundred microvolts of Idss depending on voltage and transistor temperature, and i don't know how it would impact thermocouple measurements

Be careful because at minute 7:48 of the video, everyone can clearly see the SSID and password of your WiFi network.

Could you share me the code?

Awesome video. Thank you!!!!

Great video and nice idea, but could you lower bg music next video, since it lose me ficus.

Nice to see in detail how other people work their ways to make their own devices. Thank you for sharing! I saw you use the solder braid. I'm not too fond of it. Personally I prefer to use the solder sucker, but maybe that's because I don't have such a handy rotating board holder. (Most often I just clamp the board with fingers and the iron as my third hand for soldering doesn't always do what I want it to do...) In the past I've let some magic smoke out of things by reversing positive and negative. Now I always make sure to clearly mark the connector block by making the negative half black and sometimes include a diode, just to be safe. I saw you use a buck converter instead of the 7805. What buck converter is that? The solar charger that I'm currently making uses a Mini-360 board featuring the MP2307DN chip. Very nice little converter, but it's not very efficient at low power usage and gets slightly hot. Another question: what ESP32 app were you using? In most of my ESP projects I included a webserver to control things, but that app seems quite handy for prototyping things.

Hey boys and girls, you should never allow a MOSFET gate to float! Always have some sort of high resistance pulldown resistance between gate and source.

Does no one sell a DC buck converter that you can use an Arduino to control the output with?

How to get a .tflite file

You missed direct drive with diode across the resistor to get faster off switching :)

Hi great video! how would you make this work as an always off method?

its a great explanation video for ir2210. which kHz do you prefer to run with?

I was going to give up on making tflite model for my project before I found your video. Still have to download some .dll files from cudnn but this works like a charm. Thank you so much

can you provide the dowload link please

I recommend taking a look at ESPHOME and Home Assistant, very good combination for things like this.

Well done putting in efforts to make such a beautiful video however some of your circuit plans won't work according to the scheme you have shown.You can check them.Good luck

You installed version 0.3.4. How do you install the most recent version 0.4.3?

dont drink and drive a mosfet as the CHIPs will get you California Highway Patrol

it is a DRAIN to drive a mosfet

i can ride a bike, fly an airplane, sail a boat but can not drive a mosfet

The 555 can also work as MOSFET driver. Search MOSFET driver that time forgot on KZbin. The big downside that I found with this setup is that the 555 timer outputs high on pin 3 whenever pin 4 is disconnected, and that is not desirable

There are many things that almost any mc project needs: UI, OTA, logging, library management, remote access, you name it. Previously I implemented all this on a per-project basis, and I love your idea to create modular solutions that can be recycled. But there is a „but“: Once I started playing with Home Assistant and ESPHome recently, all of the above (and more) was suddenly automagically solved for all of my projects. It‘s so simple with Home Assistant to add a UI dashboard which then can be used from a smartphone app or viewed in a browser, at home or from the other side of the globe. I found that my many isolated projects and experimental devices suddenly became centrally manageable, updateable via OTA, organized, got awesome logging and graphs, and best: could now be used in combination for many different use cases via simple automation scripts. In short: all the stuff that is so often needed but takes lots of effort to implement (like UI, but not limited to UI) is added automatically. Today, I even implement pure lab tools like i.e. current sensors as ESPHome devices (and get UI, smartphone app, and extensive logging for free). „Programming“ via ESPHome *configurations* is another benefit in this package: an almost revolutionary new way of programming firmware: so simple it often cuts down my previous c++ coding time by factor 10. ESPHome/Home Assistant is much bigger than just „Home Automation“, and among other things includes the solution for creating UIs. Your project seems awesome for people not wanting to run Home Assistant (or not knowing how HA and ESPHome can team up). If you haven’t done so, I’d encourage you to take a look at ESPHome/Home Assistant just so you are aware of what’s in it, and you don’t accidentally reinvent the wheel. And no, I am not affiliated with them in any way 😂 I was just very surprised to see what this package can actually do, and had never expected it to be such a powerful solution for DIY makers and microcontroller enthusiasts like you and me.

Definitely interested. Been trying to create something similar with small database but been having trouble. Thanks for sharing.

If i have a build a "driver circuit" to turn on or off an automotive coil (use 5v pwm signal to turn on) , which method would you rather use?

Number 6 and Number 7 will not work. Both sides of the lamp are connected to ground. There is no possibility of a voltage across the lamp.

Creative video, keep it up , thanks :)

wrong schematics for floating gate driver and opto-coupler , sources connected to ground shorting the mosfet when on.

If two switches press it will short circuit the power supply ! Be careful !

Excellent video, thank you!

There are high-side driver ICs which can be "always on" (and manual control) just fine. That's just a limitation of that particular chip, not of the category in general. (and actually that chip can be controlled by manual signals too, if you wire it up correctly. It has nothing to do with being a "safety feature") Also, the optocoupler design can do PWM just fine, if you choose optocouplers with appropriate switching characteristics. A better approach would just be to use one of the other driver circuits and isolate the input using a single optocoupler instead, though.

I really like how you made this video. Simple and to the point.

You can make a really high torque actuator from an old scissor car jack and a windscreen wiper motor.

great presentation format, i dig the countdown on the top right as well, keep it up!

Interesting project, clear explanation, thanks

Thanks my dude, it worked. Cheers life saver <3

Its Ground and not Grounds

Aah, the good old Covox Speech Thing in "low res mode". Used to have one back in the 80's as soundcards were rare and expensive, only 8 bits but still very usable at the time.

great topic, thanks

Thanks..i want to try..

Clear and simple explanation!! Thanks

Schitterend uitgelegd en een heel leuke video!