No Sorry. Use the PCA web site to find a structural repair specialist. They should be Helifix Approved.

Thanks Ross, watch this space

No problem, glad you liked it

Thank you, I appreciate your support.

Hi William, This is wher proof testing is so crucial. The appendix in the rear of BRE 410 - page 11 gives some useful guidance on that.

Thank you Nick - this is great feedback as it means I have been successful in the aim to make these videos helpful and not just promotional.

yes, exactly.

Thank you Ross, though being classy is not something I'm known for ;)

No problem William, that's why I do this :) Thank you.

No. Dry wood cannot support any fungal growth. The wood must be damp in order for the fungus to penetrate it and metabolise the contents. However, heavy growth of fungal sheets (mycelium), over the surface of adjacent wood, combined with exhalation of excess water is thought to increase the moisture content of wood, which would otherwise be too dry to attack. This is often overstated to imply that dry rot can gallop off through an entire house, having started in the basement. It can do this, but only if there is a source of water which extends for example from a leaking roof, down the basement.

Thank you - good question. When metal rusts it turns into Ferric Oxide. This is the red rust you see on the surface. The rust is a chemical reaction and builds up. A metal tie may expand by several times its original thickness during this phase. It is the expansive corrosion that lifts the bricks above the tie, causing the horizontal cracks. Hope this helps.

Hi Phil, good question. Well that would be a good thing but the paint is already there and removal of it would be costly. This home has a cavity wall so most of the moisture produced in the building will evaporate via that (there are 'one' air bricks through it. Mechanical extraction in the wet rooms is a must - it is double glazed and the fireplace are bricked-up. The paint can be tolerated.

HI keven, The wall was about to fall over. There is now a sturdy lightweight fence atop the wall so no privacy issues. Thank you for getting in touch.

Thank you. That is why I do these - try my blog www.preservationexpert.co.uk

Hi James, good points. Lime is always best but of course if the ash is from industrial processes it will often contain lots of sulphates and be acidic. This is very aggressive for metal, even stainless steel. This building is pre-war so the ties were not stainless of course. Thanks for the comment.

Agree - I am always amazed people have this done to their property

+Ben Barker Hi Ben, Thanks for commenting. In most cases the isolation or removal of the old rusting ties is essential. If they are left in position, rusting and expansion continuies and more cracking can occur. Where there are thin section 'wire' type ties, these can usually be left in position, as the cracking is less common and not significant. However, sometimes even these ties need isolating - treat every house on its merits.