So much work, love how much care you put into the details!
@thejointeffort24 күн бұрын
@@MTknives happy to hear you’re finally getting this thing built! When you run out of episodes here, go to www.jointeffort.net to finish the series.
@oxytocinaАй бұрын
Really nice explanation, thanks a lot! I have a question, that curved diamond dresser is custom made or is it saled like that?
@thejointeffortАй бұрын
It’s a straight edge out of the box. It’ll change shape a bit as you use it. But that’s not really important because it’s the motion of sweeping it in an arc as you dress the wheel that gives you a crown on the grind is surface.
@oxytocina29 күн бұрын
Thanks! @@thejointeffort
@handyboy2000Ай бұрын
Not a lot of instruction here.
@JamesBreshears2 ай бұрын
Thank you very much that was very informative one question I'm building my own custom draw knife I'm using an old planer blade and what angle should it be at for a straight draw knife?
@thejointeffort2 ай бұрын
There’s no set angle. It’s all dependent on your body and your work holding device(s). Start out with the handles either parallel to the back of the blade (basically bevel down) or the bevel (bevel up) and see how it cuts. Then make adjustments.
@JamesBreshears2 ай бұрын
@thejointeffort thank you for your response that's helpful
@osolomeyo34712 ай бұрын
smaller single wheel? seriously?
@thejointeffort2 ай бұрын
@@osolomeyo3471 Totally!
@tastykeish3 ай бұрын
Would a ceramic heating bulb work similarly?
@thejointeffort3 ай бұрын
Definitely! If you follow the link, there should be a materials list that includes that as an option.
@tastykeish3 ай бұрын
@@thejointeffort amazing! Thank you
@maydanlex3 ай бұрын
Is there an episode showing how to make the shave horse?
@thejointeffort3 ай бұрын
There's an entire playlist. It covers how to build the horse (mostly by hand) from the kit I sell. Here's the playlist: www.jointeffort.net/build-pinhead-shave-horse Here's the kit (click the "Buy A Kit" page link): www.jointeffort.net/shave-horse-store
@maydanlex3 ай бұрын
@@thejointeffort Appreciate it..I did find what you referenced at almost the same time as you sent the reply. Thanks again!
@superwavess4 ай бұрын
Do you find going from 1k to 5k to 8k is beneficial? I think Rob Cosman goes from 1200 to 16k, but that may be purely for speed aspect. Just curious if you've noticed.
@thejointeffort4 ай бұрын
For a while I was without my intermediate stone and I tried jumping straight to 8K. It felt like it took forever to get the scratches from the 1K stone out. Maybe if I had stuck with it longer and got a better feel for how much polishing I was really necessary, I wouldn’t have needed to stop and check so often. But in the end I think it’s faster to just use the middle stone. If you can’t afford it, then maybe it’s a good money saver.
@superwavess4 ай бұрын
@@thejointeffort I see Christian Schwarz has those same 3 as well. Makes sense! Suddenly feel the need to spend another $200 on my sharpening setup :p
@Dave512624 ай бұрын
Nice example showing the smoked reed. It looks really nice. For those like me who cannot get hickory bark due to costs, this looks like a good alternative. Is that 5/8" or 3/4"?
@thejointeffort4 ай бұрын
Thanks! I use 5/8” on side chairs and 3/4” on arm chairs. If your arm chairs aren’t much bigger than your sides, I think 5/8” would work fine for both.
@grounded73624 ай бұрын
When orienting the board for load bearing should the tangential grain be vertical (perpetual to the floor) or horizontal (parallel to the floor)for maximum strength such as in building a workbench top or chair seat?
@thejointeffort4 ай бұрын
We’re only talking about the orientation of the grain relative to the part it’s being joined with. The orientation to the ground doesn’t enter into it. Unless you’re talking about extreme loads (even beyond what a workbench might have to withstand) the orientation of the grain relative to the ground isn’t really a factor.
@blueblur64475 ай бұрын
I know you say no softwood... But would Southern Yellow Pine work in your opinion upon second thought? Its what I am leaning towards to match my workbench which is also SYP and rock hard once the pitch set.
@thejointeffort5 ай бұрын
@@blueblur6447 I think you’ll be fine with SYP.
@shanehertzog58127 ай бұрын
Hi I like the lie Nielsen plane should you buy the bigger shoulder first? The medium size is good to. I like the way you show how to sharpen shoulder plane. Australia.
@thejointeffort7 ай бұрын
Occasionally I find myself wishing for the medium sized shoulder plane and then I have a task that really requires the large one. One day I might buy a medium, but I haven’t found a good enough reason to spend the money on a second plane.
@anthonymoraes32517 ай бұрын
Great tips!
@thejointeffort7 ай бұрын
Thanks Chef!
@longbowbanjoAL7 ай бұрын
bevel down is the best in most cases. good video bud
@thejointeffort7 ай бұрын
It’s all dependent on the geometry of your setup. I like a pair of knives. One Becel Up for heavy duty hogging of material and another that’s Bevel Down for just about everything else.
@shanehertzog58127 ай бұрын
Have you use a veritas low angle jack plane.?
@thejointeffort7 ай бұрын
Yes. That was my first bench plane. It works well. And I really like the PM V-11 steel that Veritas makes. But over the years I’ve come to prefer the overall design and especially the shape of the handles on the Lie-Nielsen planes.
@michaeldoto46737 ай бұрын
I love these videos-they’re packed with so many great details. I’m not sure what you were planning to make, but it appears like a beautiful set of winding sticks! I’ve been collecting some scraps from my local maker space just so I can have practice materials. Thank you sharing these videos!
@thejointeffort7 ай бұрын
Thanks Micheal! I’ll be turning this into a mini course that focuses on small stock preparation with hand tools. I’m thinking it’ll be in the $25 range.
@1deerndingo7 ай бұрын
Do you use the 6 as a "wood remover" because of it's weight? A lot of people would see the Jack of the "wood remover" and the 6 as a Jointer.
@thejointeffort7 ай бұрын
Hey Danny! So I think the number convention on the Stanley Bedrock is causing a little confusion here. The 605 is actually a No. 5 Pack Plane. The 6 has to do with the fact that it’s a bedrock plane. So in this instance, I’m using the Jack Plain as a heavy material remover and then the low angle jack as a jointer. In theory, you can use almost any plane as a jointer if the stock is short enough. As a rule of thumb, as long as the part isn’t much more than twice the length of the sole, that plane is big enough to joint the work. I don’t consider the weight of the plane at all for this type of work. In fact, a lighter plane can be better because it reduces fatigue.
@kyaaa_95907 ай бұрын
@@thejointeffortthank you for all this information
@themeat50537 ай бұрын
But it you said OverTime 8.2. yet the thumb nail says OverTime 8.1. This makes for paying attention to detail for us infantry guys. I know that I'm an ass.
@thejointeffort7 ай бұрын
I think I fixed it. Thanks!
@DraganIlich-r1s8 ай бұрын
Thank you Sir.🎉
@thejointeffort8 ай бұрын
Most welcome!
@davidcolonna26268 ай бұрын
I enjoy your videos very much. Thank you! Instructional videos exist on a design spectrum, I suppose. On one end, the instructor explains everything in minute detail, and then performs the described task. If not edited well, these videos can have instructors repeating themselves, rambling onto other topics, and making the videos too long. Also,the viewer is in a more passive learning mode. On the other other end are "wordless" videos wherein the instructor teaches purely by doing. This requires the instructor to be very mindful to carefully demonstrate what, how and why something is being done. This requires the viewer to watch and learn in a more active mode. To get to the point (finally!), I did not understand the significance of the pencil-drawn layout lines, nor the significance of the caliper use. Also, I understood, later in the video, what you were feeling for when planing to the cutting gauge mark. You were feeling for that paper thin, "flap", of remaining wood to be planed. If I were a less experienced wood worker, I would have missed that teaching point. The best way to learn wood working would be to work at the bench of your retired, endlessly patient, master-craftsman grandfather. Short of that, videos like yours come in at a very strong second place. In summary, thank you for making your videos! I learn a great deal, and they are enjoyable to watch. A few well-chosen words of explanation might be of help sometimes.
@thejointeffort8 ай бұрын
Hi David! Thank you for taking the time to leave such a thoughtful comment. As you mentioned, I put a lot of thought/planning/editing into these videos to create something between entertaining and instructional. Hopefully many viewers can get what they’re looking for. For those who really want to learn more, I go into more detail on my blog/newsletter: www.jointeffort.net/post/jack-joint-smooth-plane-to-a-gauge-line
@thejointeffort7 ай бұрын
I discussed what I as doing with the dividers in more detail here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fp25pK2Ye69qhq8
@thejointeffort7 ай бұрын
Here's a video discussing feeling for the "flap": kzbin.info/www/bejne/d2axdHyHpNB9sNE
@vintage9108 ай бұрын
Love these videos ! My go-to at the moment is an LN #5 1/2 (no camber) and a heavily cambered amazon #4 that I use as a scrub plane. Did you build that small panel gauge yourself or purchase it somewhere? Looks nice. I'm thicknessing an edge grained cutting board at the moment. Such a relaxing process.
@thejointeffort8 ай бұрын
That's a 6" Hamilton Marking Gauge. I sell them on my site... www.plate11.com/product-page/hamilton-6-marking-gauge
@jflutube8 ай бұрын
Why switch between the jack and the low angle jack? I mean what makes the jack work better for the initial stuff?
@ISwood4U8 ай бұрын
I do the same with my two jacks, both Stanleys. One is setup for rough work, the other for medium to light shavings. It saves time on switching the irons and fiddling with the mouth opening.
@thejointeffort8 ай бұрын
The short answer is different blade geometry. The old jack has a highly cambered iron. The low angle jack is set up more like a jointer. You can take a look at this video to see how my old Stanley 605 is set up… Camber: How To Set Up A Jack Plane | The Hand Tool Practice: 7 kzbin.info/www/bejne/rJ6xpHSvht2IhLc
@thejointeffort8 ай бұрын
@@ISwood4Ugreat answer!
@jflutube8 ай бұрын
Ah. Thanks to both of you
@thejointeffort7 ай бұрын
I discussed the difference between the setup of my two Jacks in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/d2axdHyHpNB9sNE
@acek1008 ай бұрын
u wanted too say Wood River right lol
@thejointeffort8 ай бұрын
Nope.
@acek1008 ай бұрын
@@thejointeffort that’s the one I have issues with. What u decribed
@thejointeffort8 ай бұрын
@@acek100 that’s unfortunate. I’ve never used a wood river tool. The only brands I trust are Lee Valley and Lie-Nielsen. I would like to try out Melbourne Tool at some point. Doing real tool tests is expensive, though. You’ve got to spend your own money and order through regular channels to trust the results.
@acek1008 ай бұрын
That’s all I use is lie Nelson now. I also have some older Stanley planes. It took me a while too learn too get a sharp blade.
@canuslupis33438 ай бұрын
I’ve just come across your site, and i found it full of great tips. For example the strength of grip taking the cut out of plumb. I made test cuts with lines and without and they were all plumb, which other sites didn’t mention. I’m now subscribed.
@thejointeffort8 ай бұрын
Thanks for subscribing. Be sure to subscribe to my blog to get all the latest info and more detailed information about my new videos. www.jointeffort.net/yt
@PerfectLoverTrailer8 ай бұрын
Hi Mark. I was a freelance cinematographer for 45 years and am now retired. I've been doing amateur woodworking for almost the same amount of time, to keep myself sane when work was slow. I moved to chair-making about 6 years ago. I've taken classes with Curtis, Elia, Jeff, and Pete. I have gotten some nice wood from Mike Elmore, who I know you know. I say all that prior to saying that you do a very fine job of covering action with a camera, especially with an iphone. And the sound is great! This content is so great, as is the presentation. Thank you so much! And thanks to Jeff, next time you speak with him.
@thejointeffort8 ай бұрын
Wow Herbert! Thank you for those generous complements. And I’ll pass them along to Jeff as well. I’m looking for an editor who wants to trade for instruction or furniture or workbench or Shavehorse… if you know anyone that fits the bill, let me know.
@mattcttrll8 ай бұрын
Two good people there. Sorry Mark, we haven't met,so..lol. You weren't around when I came by at handworks. Jeff suggested i come over to try out the chairs at your booth. But, I did drop off some wax to your cohorts tho and even did an interview.
@thejointeffort8 ай бұрын
Hello Matt! I’m sorry I missed you at Handworks. I hope I live up to expectations when we get a chance to meet in person. 🤣
@michaeldoto46738 ай бұрын
That was incredibly fascinating!
@thejointeffort8 ай бұрын
Thanks Michael!
@AXJ19718 ай бұрын
Super helpful Mark! Just now setting up a sawmill for the first time. Great info here!
@thejointeffort8 ай бұрын
Time to make some more chairs!
@thejointeffort8 ай бұрын
Yeah, I’ve never seen anyone use a hammer for this. You can already get A LOT of fine adjustment simply by changing the way you present the tool to the surface. Hammer taps would really slow you down. The only thing that’s gonna get beat up is the top of the swing arm. Or the top of my leg vise chop when I’m at the workbench.
@natalirivero4678 ай бұрын
That is how I like to adjust my spokeshave but I am looking to an upgrade because the mouth opening is too much, I like this simple models with no adjusters though this one seems a bit delicate or fancy to tap it against a surface like that, am I wrong?
@thejointeffort8 ай бұрын
It’s really sturdy. The only thing I’m careful about is being sure to tap the brass (instead of the handle) when I’m trying to lighten the cut. But I’m not sure this is necessary. I’ve had over a dozen students (and Jeff has had hundreds) who have used these shaves (borrowed or brought their own) and no one has broken one yet.
@natalirivero4678 ай бұрын
@@thejointeffort wouldn't it dent it? brass is kind of soft
@thejointeffort8 ай бұрын
Only if you’re hitting it on metal. It’s much harder than wood. This are good questions. Kind of hard to answer them yourself without using the tool first.
@natalirivero4678 ай бұрын
@@thejointeffort Thanks for your replies, glad you like the questions, I guess ideally you'd tap them with a fancy hammer but that is just another item to invest in and take care off, I feel like I wouldn't been able to find it in the shop 5 times out of 10 haha. Plus what I like about this tool is how you can adjust it while working just by taping it against a surface, not need to be extra conscious about it, the hammer would fight that convenience.
@natalirivero4678 ай бұрын
@@thejointeffort Hey, I've been asking this question around KZbin and no one seems to be as responsive as you are, so I want to give you credits for that, and I am sorry if I am taking too much of your time, but I'd really like to know what is an acceptable mouth opening for a spokeshave? I know premium brands like LN and Veritas have tight mouths but from what I've seen in the internet, the average spokeshave (including antique ones) tend to have a considerable gap. Also, Paul Sellers says in one of his videos that he is not a fan of tight mouths in a spokeshave since those don't allow him to work any fast. My guess is that at least two tools would be ideal, one with a bigger gap, for coarse/fast work; and another with a tight mouth, for fine work. I'd still would like to know what is acceptable for the coarse tool? What are your thoughts on this? Many thanks in advance!
@youtubecommentor44808 ай бұрын
What are you using as a jig to hold the jointer blade as you sharpen? When sharpening freehand, I can’t keep the blade at a steady 45° (or 35°) angle. Great video! Thank you for your time!
@thejointeffort8 ай бұрын
It's a honing guide. Check out these 3 videos... Which Honing Guide Should I Buy? kzbin.info/www/bejne/bp-wmJ1ma8-dkJI How to Use a Honing Guide kzbin.info/www/bejne/bnKmi6iobrCrj68 How do I Figure Out the Sharpening Angles on my Eclipse Honing Guide? kzbin.info/www/bejne/hKC1emmuhMaJmck
@youtubecommentor44808 ай бұрын
@@thejointeffort … Thank you so much for the speedy reply. Appreciate the very helpful links.
@1deerndingo8 ай бұрын
Smoothing plane next ?
@thejointeffort8 ай бұрын
It’s a lot like this… kzbin.info/www/bejne/r3_QnoKrqtd6n6ssi=YdcYinUfcJGi0Ei2
@johnsvariety9 ай бұрын
Really enjoying these Mark. And a cliffhanger in this one.
@thejointeffort9 ай бұрын
Thanks John! Here’s a hint… you might have already seen what I’m about to do.
@johnsvariety9 ай бұрын
🤔… might this involve sitting on a 🐴?
@petertiffney44139 ай бұрын
The teeth that you jointed flat you should have left alone you had a breasted saw plate that out performs in use I sharpen saws professionally herd in the uk
@thejointeffort9 ай бұрын
At least it’s sharp now… better than breasted and dull, I guess. 🤷🏻♂️
@jflutube9 ай бұрын
How do you know when you need to set the teeth?
@thejointeffort9 ай бұрын
That’s a good question. I have only found one person who is willing to commit to a number on this (Mark Harrell from SawSharp). He recommends 7 thousandths (0.007 inches) more than the thickness of the plate right at the tooth line. But this number was given in reference to a finer toothed back saw. I might see if I can chat with him and get his thoughts. I know he’s working on a sharpening book. So he’s probably already got this down somewhere. The best thing I can recommend is to make some cuts. If the saw wanders all over the place, maybe take a little set out. You can do this by putting a hammer, face up, in your vise as an anvil and then lightly tapping the tooth line with a second hammer as you move the plate along the anvil.
@jflutube9 ай бұрын
Ok. I watched another KZbinr (Paul Sellers) and sort of combined your way and his way. I bought an inexpensive saw set since … because. Tried this on an old craftsman saw. It took a while, but the saw cuts straight and it sure seems sharper now. Thanks for nudging me to go ahead and try this.
@thejointeffort9 ай бұрын
That’s great Jeff! Getting people out into their shops and working with their tools is the whole driver behind my work.
@jimshaver8989 ай бұрын
Now That's what I need!! Thanks for the video, we;; done!
@thejointeffort9 ай бұрын
There are a bunch of notes on the blog post about the build. And now that I’ve used it, I’ll probably make a a video on my thoughts and send it out with the newsletter soon.
@jimshaver8989 ай бұрын
That was excellent
@thejointeffort9 ай бұрын
Thanks Jim!
@johnsvariety9 ай бұрын
This is great. Really nice short project. Love the sound. I doubt the algorithm would like it, but I would love to see a real time version. I have two drills that have different things wrong. This is giving me inspiration to cobble together a frankendrill. Then make some file handles. Thanks Mark, inspiring stuff.
@thejointeffort9 ай бұрын
This is great to hear John! Be sure to take a look at the blog post that goes with this. I gave a little more detail on the process. And if I had to do it over, (this was actually my original plan, but it go my lost in the preparations to film) I would probably try to drill the mortises in the ends and shape the handles afterwards. Gives you a better grip in the vise.
@johnsvariety9 ай бұрын
Great video. Great simple vise. Would love to see more of this style of video.
@thejointeffort9 ай бұрын
Thanks John! I’m trying to do more showing and less telling these days. If people want to learn more I have a blog and a newsletter that goes into more detail.
@roofermarc19 ай бұрын
I like this. I'm doing the same on my moxin. Thanks
@thejointeffort9 ай бұрын
Excellent!🎉
@JMAWWorks9 ай бұрын
Fun sound work, nicely done!
@thejointeffort9 ай бұрын
Thanks!
@thejointeffort9 ай бұрын
Thanks!
@1deerndingo9 ай бұрын
That's a unique saw vice. And a skilful way of making it.
@thejointeffort9 ай бұрын
Thanks! I have a tendency to over-complicate things. It took a few rounds of planning to get this down to its most simple form.
@spwiz55789 ай бұрын
Foley work on point! Great job, Mark!
@thejointeffort9 ай бұрын
Thanks Sean! I take my role as an internet educator seriously. It had to be perfect.
@michaeldoto46739 ай бұрын
Making that 25 degree stick to set the plate angle was very clever! Always enjoy and gain a new little something from your videos.
@thejointeffort9 ай бұрын
Glad you liked it!
@1deerndingo9 ай бұрын
Nice video. Thank you. What are you making?
@thejointeffort9 ай бұрын
Thanks! I’ve been trying out a new style. As far as the project goes… I’m glad you’re curious. I don’t want to give away the final result, but there’s a clue in this video.
@michaeldoto467310 ай бұрын
This technique is a game changer! Thank you
@thejointeffort10 ай бұрын
Awesome! I'm so glad it helped.
@donovancampbell778510 ай бұрын
Well done! Thank you.
@thejointeffort10 ай бұрын
Thanks Donovan!
@jordanc323311 ай бұрын
What grit finishing stone was that? Thanks so much for the video!
@thejointeffort11 ай бұрын
That’s a 6000 grit Nanohone stone. I was experimenting with using only two stones at that time, but I’ve since gone back to 3 stones. 1000, 3 or 4000, and 8000.
@jordanc323311 ай бұрын
@@thejointeffort Thank you! Wow, thats pretty full on! only use a 1000 and 3000 to sharpen my Japanese carbon steel knives. Going to an 8000 on a chisel is next level!
@thejointeffort10 ай бұрын
8K is my SOP. The extra polishing toughens the edge. Knives don't really need that much refinement. So, unless you're a high end sushi master, you're doing the right thing by stopping early and getting back to the fun of chopping and slicing your ingredients.@@jordanc3233
@jaredbtaylor11 ай бұрын
Cliffhanger! Can't wait for Part 2. Thanks for putting the energy into making videos. They are much appreciated
@thejointeffort11 ай бұрын
The complete process is just too long to put in a single video. I’m still working on cutting the second part down to keep it within a reasonable length.