Has to be your wrist pins

I know this was done a while back, but the center to center length for the lower control arms is 17 3/4" and adjust to your preference from there.

Yeah I’m just now noticing that yours aren’t BBK, either way, the concept Is the same. Thanks so much for all of the information. I’ve subscribed to the channel and expect to see a lot more videos on s197 coyotes. 😂😂😏 THANK YOU!

The mid pipe, I heard you say you made it. Is that one of the cut and clamp mids you can buy online? I’m looking to do the same thing and trying to figure out the best way to acquire the parts.

Did you do an entire set of LTH on a gen 1 yote by yourself?! That’s legit lol. How long did it take?

I've got a 2000 v10 with a 5 speed stick. I've thought about installing this system, but before this video, I was up in the air if it's worth it. I've changed the plugs had my exhaust system fixed just to find out I have a exhaust manifold leak. As it warms up it gets better. But as the truck has just under 200k and for what a newer truck would cost. I've thought about the last few weeks I would rather fix this truck up and know what I have vs spending 15k or way more just yo buy a used truck with 150k if your lucky.

Is this the 5th gen quick string kit

Cool, good as a professional.😎

Great video!

Who makes those awesome subframe connectors?

Keep up the good work! 💪

Hey man I see your using all team z stuff and I have a question. I also have an 89 with team z kmember and 12” solid a-arms running 96-04 straight spindles and strange coilovers. Should I be using longer a arms? I can get it within clearance on an alignment rack but should I be shooting for more camber over stock? I see your using the 13” adjustables, I really prefer solid but I wonder if 12” is way too short? I’m also ripping sway bar link tabs off the arms… 😅 thank you for your videos

Anybody watching this doing this yourself, couple things Get your ac system evacuated before you start. Just do it, or you'll be blessed with a blast of freon trying to cheat that passenger side line. Trust me, I know... The factory gaskets are great, just reuse them. Try and reuse as many head studs as possible and keep them oriented by the hole they came out of. When you put them back in, don't use copper antiseize, copper and aluminum together causes a certain galvanation, you'll never get em back out. Goes for spark plugs too definitely no copper antiseize. Use a small amount of graphite antiseize on the head studs and the bolts, and definitely on the 02 sensors and exhaust bolts, just everything lol You'll probably have to drop the k member, but not by much just about an inch. I had to for the set of LTH brands anyway. Use a MAP torch to heat any bolts you can't get undone most likely the factory cats, and then quench with pb blaster when hot. Do that a few times and should get them loosened. Use a plumbers heat mat to protect whatever is behind the bolts you're heating, they're like 5 dollars at home depot When you finish the job and you have any contact against the steering shaft(you will for sure with LTH brand headers) cheat the motor back over toward the passenger side a 1/4 inch. Remeber: the headers are going to expand a bit when they heat up, so if they're close to touching something cold, they probably will when hot If you are worried about getting 02 codes, buy some header wrap and metal zip ties on amazon. Wrap the header wrap around the collector and 02 bung a bit, the sensor is gonna run a bit cold with long tubes, the header wrap will help hold some heat by them and give you codes LESS FREQUENTLY. you're still getting codes no way around it. I'll update this if I can think of anything else, but God speed! Longtubes on these cars is sooo damn worth the trouble of putting them in! Get yourself a chiltons/haynes manual from autozone. They're 13 dollars and worth their weight in gold! They every single torque # and give you all the steps you need to handle literally everything you have to do on your car. They are so damn underrated.

What was the ticking sound???

Alright. Just had this. Replaced AC compressor and all. Tensioner pulley bearing walked on me straight into the front of the engine block. Take off the belt, see if the noise continues. Check ALL pulleys

What are you using to adjust?

That sound is either a loose spark plug, or the headers aren't tight enough

what size are the clamps

Did you ever figure out what that ticking sound was? Thanks, this video was a great look at the internals!

great design cant even drop an oil pan fnking ford

Piece of pipe. Tires on..roll the car and pull the pipe through the fender an tire.

Wait isn’t paying someone to do something you yourself do not know how to do the very reason for the whole deal in the first place? 🤔😳😳😳😜✌🏽

What are you trying to do?

I appreciate the content, I ordered some NT555R2 same size. Hoping I can get away with not rolling I have different wheels.

Were you able to loosen the motor mounts free by taking loose the nuts through the bottom? Mine are so rusted there’s no chance I get them free from the motor itself

Real question is what does the lug nut look like.

No

Yep same comment

Why would that be a problem the lug nuts are designed to self center, of course tighten of in a star pattern you’ll be fine

That’s definitely a Helicoil/Save a Thread insert.

What do you honestly think about the system? I can only find reviews from people who received the product free for review. I don't trust those types of reviews.

Thank you for this series of videos! I am planning to drop my oil pan from my 5.4 2V which is basically the same engine and headaches, just 2 cylinders less, and the experience you've shared will help me along when I get to that. I bought the manual from eManualOnline which is the actual Ford manuals they used for that year. In it, it says you have to prop the engine from above to remove the cross-member below, so I got 1 from Harbor Freight for $85. Question, did you get the same sized bearings, or did your kit come with the thicker bearings? My F250 just stared rod knocking, maybe even quieter than yours, so it would be helpful to know if you had to use the thicker bearings or not.

Have you made any progress? I'm working my way into a 99 F250 with 130k. So far, I change all the plugs and gapped them to 0.054 from the 0.061 that came out the box. Pulled the throttle body to clean out all carbon, changed the EGR and IAC valves, and doing that solved my vacuum leaks back there. Changed out 2 coils and next will be pulling the valve covers to inspect the lifters and rockers. Also will look at the timing chains and gears. Also will investigate any exhaust manifold leaks I have Seafoam in the oil now and will change oil and filter in 50 more miles. Just trying to update where possible while working my way through known flaws and ruling things out.

So to update about this video, I do have noise and I believe it's because my pinion depth is wrong. So I will need to take this apart and do it again.

did you got it fix? i have the same sound in my truck

It's a cheap kit from mmispeedshop.com/ I used 2.5" till I got under the car. It was pretty close to steering and the rear plug wire. But it's working.

What turbo kit did you get? The exhaust looks tucked under the car pretty good

Ty for this video Very informative Wish you could do a complete taredown and rebuild

Where was the green wire with black stripe coming from that you hooked ignition switched source to?

Was there a shifter with linkage that easy bolt on for c4 into foxbody?

Need a better thumbnail

Need to turn the video

Any update on the turbo fox?

Hate to see all the work you put into it and still have a tick. My v10 also had a noise at light throttle that sounded like a rod knock but would come and go. I did timing chains, oil pump and inspected valvetrain. Still had the knock/clatter. I too said i would drive it til it blows up. Fathers day it finally blew up about 50 minutes into a 1hr drive and lost oil pressure. On camera it sure sounded like yours was a rod knock, but bearings looked fine. Curious what yours could be. Here is a video of my noise in case you want to compare against yours cause my noise did finally cause a failure. kzbin.info/www/bejne/kIrPmIigrKihpJI

Nice detailed video 👍 gonna watch it soon when doing it myself . Any idea about source of relocation kit ?

Great info

I also had to buy sensors, splice wiring, and buy extensions for the Holley kit

Did you wind up pulling the pan and replacing bearings? If so, did that fix it?

Bub u may want to mask some stuff off

When I did my caster I didn't do it right, I needed to turn it out 20° and then zero it and the turn to center then turn 20° in, then get the reading and then times that by 1.5. That will change my caster calculation drastically. @quicktrickalignment contacted me on tic toc and let me know that. I like their public engaugement.