split the train onto 2 cassettes?

I have four foot cassettes which are still practical. It depends on the space you have to move about in and your own confidence in what you can handle. I think six foot would be possible Cheers Gormo

That’s all very well if you have loads of room in your locomotives. What scale are you running?

@@davidrichie9570 4mm

@@davidrichie9570 4mm

Can you do a quick diagram for this?? Would be really helpful!

@@psychobillytetch Uploaded

@@psychobillytetch This is so irritating. KZbin keeps delete comments for no reason

Before the comment where I say "Uploaded", I tried informed you that was going to upload and to check to see when I do. That was about 15min after your comment/request.

you see it? @@psychobillytetch

Hi David reply to [email protected] from your own own email address and I will send the code to you. I have randomised the route the train takes. Better I think ! Neil ps. circuit diagram not done yet - layout is away to have scenery added

@@wosag9523 thanks, email sent.

The clamp I used is generally known as a "universal work holder", and I bought this one on Amazon, Modelcraft PCL8010/B Bench Universal Work Holder. It currently sells on Amazon for ~£18, but Googling "Universal Work Holder" will highlight a raft of other sources. Keith

It's a question with a multi-faceted answer. You should use a temperature that suits the solder you are using, the iron, in terms of both its power and the shape and size of its tip, the parts and board you are soldering to, and when working in SMD, the flux you are using. It should be hot enough to melt solder instantly on the iron, and to get the joint made in a second or two, but not so hot that it shocks the part or the board. Many MERG pcbs have unnecessarily fine tracks that can be induced to shrivel up with a slight overheat. If you want starting numbers I currently use an 80W Weller MSP iron and/or a 60W chinese TS100 running off an RC battery. I set these to about 320 -340C. I use Amtech BGA rework flux for best, certainly for rework, or flux out of flux pen for day to day. Additional solder is usually 28ga multicore from RS/Farnell/Rapid or 5micron solder paste. A good way to 'get your eye in' is to solder SMD ( 1206 or 0804 ) resistors/caps between adjacent tracks of a piece of veroboard. My technique is to tin both tracks, then remove the solder with a solder sucker or braid, this leaves the areas on both sides tinned, but flat. I can then place the part. I often use tweezers or the finger of God to hold it in place while I reheat/reflow it into place with the iron. I then backfill solder into the connection on either side. I use a webcam feeding a 28 inch monitor as a soldering microscope, though the adonstar 'dashcam' type microscopes are good too.

Thanks for providing such a full response, much appreciated.

By using a DPDT switch with Center OFF. On - Off - ON. Shown at 4:02, you can see the Center Off, but I don't think he ever mentions it tho. Since the one he is actually using is a On - ON. You can see that there is no Center Off. 10:55. You can use a Momentary DPDT, so that you press it one way and let go, it returns to Center off.

The reason stay alives are successful in DCC is that the power is a constant voltage supplied all the time. The storage capacitor in the stay alive is therefore always charged, even if the loco is standing still. With a DC system the track is only powered when the loco is moving, and then only at a fraction of the ~12V supply. The storage capacitor therefore cannot build sufficient charge to be of much use.