Where did I find what?

I actually made it myself.

The bush I think is the old GW grass that came in the clamshell, the grass I don’t remember. I think the company went under.

Thank You.

Creative license. 😜

Are referring to the base?

Not sure what you are referring to. Re-watched video and everything looks good, a couple spots are a little fuzzy, but I feel I did a decent job of explaining what I was working on and the process of it.

@@blacklabelminiatures Because of the speed - the video is running so fast, that I can't make out what you are doing 😊

I injured my painting hand and have not done any serious work in the last year. But, I do hope to be able to start again soon.

That is one of the best sources honestly. I’ll spend a couple hours researching one clone to see different angles, it’s tedious for sure.

My local store had some and what I could not get there I ordered from someone. Just search Vallejo Game Color on Amazon, there are several sets. Most stuff is going to be hard to find atm.

I do not currently own the Daario Naharis mini, though I might have the Vargo Hoat (I will have to double check on that). But until my thumb allows me to actually paint, I am unable to actually do so. I just had my hand-cast removed today and it may be several weeks before I can actually paint again.

@@blacklabelminiatures oh that’s completely fine thanks for answering me and the daario model comes in the set with vargo so unless you bought them separately you should have it thanks again for answering love your vids and your Robb stark one helped a lot

The different paint companies all have different finishes and sometimes the different lines w/in a company will have different finishes. If you are worried about having a Satin or Gloss finish, the best way to deal with it is using a Matte Varnish afterwards or you can always add a tiny Matte Medium to your color before painting. Scale 75's Scale Color range is very matte by comparison to Citadel or Vallejo.

Faces can be a rather hard at times, as it can represent t a focal point on your model. The best advice I can give to anyone is, do not try too "HARD" (ie. do not over think it). To do a basic face, start with a dark skin tone (Bugmans Glow, Beige Red), add a flesh shade (thinned really well) and allow this to dry (at least 10-20mins), come back with the same skin tone and focus on the higher areas (bridge of nose, cheek bones, forehead), then lighten that with a brighter skin tone (Basic Skintone, Light Skintone). If you remember to thin your paints well, you can repeat this step several times without distorting the model. Unless the model has larger (in your face style eyes), it is best to ignore them and allow the shading do its job.

Primed Army Painter Grey, based in VMC Black and drybrushed VMC Grey(s).

@@blacklabelminiatures can i mix it with citadel’s paints?

@@mendo9216 Of course, they are both acrylic based paints; the only real difference being the finish: Matte v Satin v Gloss and you can solve that issue via a sealant (Matte Varnish).

@@blacklabelminiatures thank you, im new at painting, could you tell me what is the best spray paint (i need black and white) i found Liquitex white paint and wrath bone citadel white

@@mendo9216 Actually "The Army Painter" primer paints are the best on the market (IMO) and if I remember right are cheaper than Citadel. Vallejo (Game, Model Air/Color) makes some of the best acrylic modeling paints, followed by Scale75, Citadel and Army Painter.

I really enjoyed painting this guy and using the painting method. I always fear painting larger items, more space to screw up on. =)

I'll have to double check the settings to make sure it's using both channels next time I record.