Totally agree that it would be amazing, and an improvement, to have adjustments on the viewfinder!

@@ChristopherJohnBall also, it would be great if someone would come up with a method to reprint the masks for the viewfinder for different focal length. IMHO this is one of the best viewfinder out there and it deserves more love🥰

@@edzardpiltz6348 That idea has got me thinking! The viewfinder is easy to take apart and the original layout lines etc are on a film. Wonder if it would be possible to create the masks and photograph them using a film camera? Might look into that

@@ChristopherJohnBall or you could scan them and print them on clear film. If you master the process, could you send me one for the 35mm FOV. I am desperate here😉🤙

@@edzardpiltz6348 That is a great idea! I don't have the 35mm lens version but I am looking for it. If I find someone who has one I will see if they will let me scan the insert. If that happens, and it works, I would send you a copy over.

Many thanks indeed for your comment and kind words, most appreciated. I just attended another film collectors festival, held in London, last Sunday and I will be putting up a video I am making of that day soon. I was there as part of a group I am involved with called 'Film Is Fabulous!. Film Is Fabulous! is trying to save film collections in the UK that are sadly ended in skips or landfill when the elderly collector passes on. We have had some success in saving some lost TV episodes and returning them to the BBC or ITV. I hope to have the new video up in the next week or so.

Many thanks for your Question Jeff. The locking collar is designed to stop the film reel from rising out of the developing solution, and resulting in uneven development, when agitating the tank by the inversion method. A simple solution, if you are missing your locking collar, is to take a rubber band (elastic band) and double wrap it onto your spiral in place of the missing locking collar. Of course, if you are using a multi reel tank you can simply place empty spools on top to fill the column as that will also stop your reels from moving. Try a rubber band in the manner I have described - this has worked for me in the past in an emergency.

Hi David, many thanks for your question. The Walzflex is currently available on eBay for around £100+ depending upon condition and if it has its case with it. If you are lucky, it can be purchased for less than that. I have bought them for as little as £20 but I was lucky. Prices are rising but expect to pay £60-150. They are a good camera and worth it when you compare to how much a yashicamat is these days. Thanks again, Chris

Many thanks for your kind words with regard to my photography Michael and also for purchasing a copy of the book, I hope you enjoy it. Many thanks again!

You are most welcome. I am happy that the video was of use. Many thanks

Many thanks for your kind comments my fellow Christopher. The folders are indeed brilliant cameras that are capable of amazing results. So they are well worth preserving and using and it is really great to hear that you are also playing your part in their preservation. I also love TLR and indeed virtually all film cameras. I have just taken possession of an Olympus Pen FT and will, after replacing the light seals etc, have that up and running. I will make a video about that camera and I have other episodes planned for the Preserving Old Film Cameras series. Many thanks again.

@@ChristopherJohnBall great camera! I bought 3 of them before I got a fully functional one. Sometimes “CLAed” in an eBay listing means nothing.

You are most welcome. I think that you are correct to say the lenses will vary. I no doubt struck unlucky as I have seen better results from others. Hope yours are OK

Hi, many thanks for your question. I take it you are recovering a set of bellows? If so, It all depends upon the camera you are repairing. 1mm should do for many cameras but thinner still would be better. It has to be able to fold back into the camera body and also be light tight. If you are building a set of bellows then 1mm should be fine - again, ensure the material is light tight.

@@ChristopherJohnBall thanks!

Hi, many thanks for your comments and I am pleased you found the video helpful. Yes, I am still here and happy to help where I can. So please feel free to ask questions. I may not always be able to reply straight away but I will do so within 24 hours if I can

@@ChristopherJohnBall great, sorry for not finding the time myself, but I got there anyway. here's what I wanted to know: 1) Near the aperture adjustment lever there are marks from 4 to 16, but the lever itself goes much further, on both sides, just about 1 conditional division, to set the aperture to 4 or 16, do I need to set the lever opposite these values? Then it turns out that in the extreme positions I will set, say, 3 and 25? then why are they not marked with numbers. And if the extreme positions are still 4 and 16, then the numbers do not correspond at all to the location of the slider. 2. working with the exposure meter, do I need to make some kind of correction, adjustment, in connection with the use of 120 film, and not 135, or does it not matter? 3. On the back cover there is (should be there) a red glass. Am I right in thinking that it only works when using orthochromatic film, because on panchromatic it won't make any difference whether it's red or just a little darkened, so that it certainly won't show through the film leader? I don't have one, I cover it with tape after I expose the film. 4. Regarding this same glass. Am I right in thinking that this camera is made for the 6x6 format? But the row of numbers on the film, which is located exactly in place of this red glass (window), has only 8 numbers, as if longer frames, although I thought that in standard 120 film there should be 12 6x6 frames, but the numbers on the leader, where there are 12 of them, are located to the right of my window. So is it designed for 8 or 12 frames? I used 8, thinking that this would be the end, but the side counter convinced me to rewind and take 3 more frames. The side counter shows 12, but the window on the back has only 8 digits in this row. 5. Is there an easy way to remove the lens or instructions for disassembling it? My shutter is jamming and shutter speeds slower than 1/25 don't work, I want to clean and lubricate it, if there is easy access to it.

​@@lexegorov7255 Hi Lex, many thanks for your questions. I am taking it that you have a Voigtlander Brillant S. 1) Whilst the markings on the lens are accurate, the aperture lever does indeed go past both the f16 and the f3.5 (on some it is f4.5) markings. With regard to when it goes past 16, the aperture will indeed adjust to a higher aperture despite it not being marked. I would put it a f22 and even a bit more. When it goes past the f3.5 (f4.5 on some) it does open up slightly but not by as much. 2) Not sure what you mean by this question as the camera doesn't have an exposure meter. Well, it does if it hasn't gone missing. There should be an extinction meter in the door on the side of the camera. If you have one let me know and I will explain how you use it. If you are referring to using your own exposure meter and how you use it taking into account the extra unmarked apertures - just use it as you would normally. You will be able to turn the lever past f16 I would simply take it that, when past f16 it is f22. 3)The red window at the back is used to read off the exposure number off the film backing. Load your film, close the back and then advance until you see the number one appear. Then make your shot and advance until number 2 appears. You say yours is missing the red glass. I would definitely fit in place a replacement. A piece of red filter gel will work. After advancing to the next shot I would always close the window using the wheeled lever (there is a button that can be turned next to the red window. If you do not replace the red gel you will probably fog your negative. By the way. I say use the red window to advance to each shot rather than use the automatic system because it rarely works now. This is because modern film is much thinner and it fools the camera mechanism and you often get uneven spacing and even overlapping frames. Most users of these wonderful cameras disengage the counter mechanism. I will put up a video soon to show how to do it. It is reversable. I also wouldn't put 135mm film into this camera. some do but I wouldn't advise it. 4) Yes this camera is made for the 6x6 format using 120 film. As to the number of exposures marked on your film. What 120 film are you referring to? I ask because all modern films I know have markings for 8, 12 and 15 exposures. The markings for 12 exposures are in the middle and should line up with your cameras red window. Is your camera definitely a Voigtlander Brillant S? All models I know have the red window in the correct position for the markings for 12 exposures. Ah, hang on. You are using the exposure counter on the camera. That may explain it. As I stated earlier modern film is on a thinner film base and this fools the camera automatic exposure counter. I would ignore it and advance the film, using the red window when you have replaced it, for each exposure. 5) With regard to dismantling/removing the lenses. DON'T if you can help it! The taking lens and viewing lens are synchronised together, via the toothed/geared rings and they are a nightmare to realign once disassembled. If the shutter is working from the 1/25th upwards to the 1/500 you can try ignoring using the slower speeds. I would drop a small amount of lighter fuel (naphtha) into the shutter - you will see where you can do this when you look - and fire it off a few times to see if that clears the slower speeds. The shutters on these models are very good. Don't flood it. That often works for me but you do so at your own risk. I hope your questions are answered. If you have any more, just ask. The Voigtlander Brillant S is a great little TLR and I have several with different lens combinations. Whilst I use my Rolleiflex TLR, I still often turn to the Brillant- especially the ones I have with the Helier lens. They give a wonderful image. I often use them for fine art work and will be putting up examples soon. All the best, Chris

it does not get much easier than this.. no need for an extra tool

Hi Peter. It could well be the same as the Telesor as it did go out under different brandings. That seems a great price for both the tele and the wide. I would be very interested to know how you get on with them and what the results are like. So perhaps you can return and comment when you find out? That would help other people looking into these adapters. I have reviewed other makes on this channel. Thanks again, Chris

@ChristopherJohnBall for sure Chris!

Hi David, no problem. I still monitor old videos for comments/questions to help out where I can. So many thanks for your questions. 1) The Yashica 635 has a Bayonet 1 filter mount. The Acura telephoto lens adapter has, from the ones I have, a threaded mount. You should be able to get a bayonet 1 to (whatever size the Acura telephoto lens is) filter thread. These are available on well known auction sites - some are 3D printed, some metal. They come in a variety of filter threads, though limited to the camera size/type, so you will need one that will fit your Acura telephoto lens though I have a suspicion that the Acura telephoto lens has a unique thread type (though you could 'glue' a traditional filter thread to it to match the Bayonet 1 adapter you purchase. You could use a UV filter as the donor. This will allow you to fit it onto your Yashica. 2) Yes, you would have to compose with it on the viewing lens first and then place it on the taking lens. Here is the issue though. It may not cover your lens and may give you a strong vignette and very soft image corners. As to the question of safety, so long as the rear elements don't protrude too far out, and therefore don't touch the front element of the Yashica, it should be safe. From the Acura telephoto lenses I have, the rear element does seem to protrude. Whether it is a good idea image quality wise is another story. Quality wise, it would be better to get the ones made for the Yashica. I am actually planning a video testing if these adapters, or others I have acquired, would work this way. It may be possible to purchase two and adapt one for the taking lens and one for the viewing lens for aesthetic reasons. If the vignetting isn't too strong and the edge softness not too severe, I am interested in seeing if they give a Holga type look to portraits and fine art nudes. The issue though may be the size. They may be too big to mount two of them on a TLR. I hope this helps. If you have other questions, please feel free to ask. All the best, Chris

@@ChristopherJohnBall Many thanks for your prompt reply. The Acura lens actually has a bayonet mount which fits into both the viewing and taking lens. I just got the camera so am looking forward to experimenting. I subscribed to your channel and look forward to future videos. Many thanks, Dave

Hi Lee, many thanks for your question. I would be careful using EF-S lenses on this. It really is made for EF but some EF-S lenses fit, some don't and some only with irreversible modification of the EF-S lens. If you go to the Viltrox website it does have a list of many compatible lenses that work and there is a customer comments section where many discuss what works and workarounds etc. The Viltrox adapter that doesn't have the focal reducer lens accepts EF and EF-S. It is the lens that supplies the focal reduction that is the issue often. Rear elements can touch etc.

They are great aren't they. I have three versions of this Bessa RF. One with the Heliar lens, as above and one with the Skopar and the other the Helomar. I will put up comparison videos at some point but even the 'cheaper' Helomar lens is first class.

Hi, many thanks for your question. The Voigtlander Bessa RF (whichever lens version you have) are indeed still great performing cameras. To answer your question. You can only select B or T when the shutter is NOT cocked/primed. If your shutter IS cocked/primed the Voigtlander Bessa RF will NOT let you select B or T and it will BREAK the shutter if you force it. So, if you are trying to select B or T whilst the shutter is cocked/primed, you will not be able to do so and your camera is working as it should. I hope this helps. If you have any more questions please feel free to ask. All the best, Chris

@@ChristopherJohnBall thank you for your replay. I never tried priming the shutter before selecting the speed knowing many cameras do not tolerate such action. I cannot say the same for the previous owner. I hope my camera simply need normal maintenance for the lubricants or something like that. Thank you very much once again.

@@PYREDD No problem. I have double checked on all my Voigtlander models with that shutter and they all don't allow for the selection of B or T if the shutter is cocked/primed. It is always wise to have a camera serviced for a CLA when you get it if its provenance is unknown. One piece of good news is that shutter model is a great one and usually gives no issues but if it does, it is easy to maintain.

@@ChristopherJohnBall mine looks to work properly at almost all speeds. It Is a bit stiff to get to the 1/400th but It works. There still is this problem with T and B settings.

@@PYREDD the move to 400th second is always stiff. It is intended to be as it pulls a spring. So that is normal. Be careful of moving from the 400th to lower speeds though. It is best to discharge the shutter if on 400th before moving it lower.

Many thanks for your comment. I am pleased that the video proved useful. It is designed to be paused. The Grafmatic Multi Sheet back is a great addition to our 4x5 camera kit. I find it especially useful given my disability. It allows me to work faster and carry a bit less - which helps a lot. Many thanks again, All the best, Chris

Many thanks. I am pleased it helped you make a good choice and I hope you make many great images with you new adapter and Graflex. All the best

Hi, many thanks for your question. Whilst it 'may' be possible to find a way of adapting this, or any other other Aux TLR lenses (such as the Yashica etc that I have also reviewed on this channel), I don't think there would be much benefit. I think that the rear exit element/lens will be far too small for the lenses on the Mamiya C330 and would vignette heavily even if you could focus it. Given that the Mamiya C330 is an interchangeable lens TLR it would be a better option to put the money towards an additional lens set for your Mamiya, which is a great camera and the lenses available for it are brilliant. All the best, Chris

@@ChristopherJohnBall Thanks for the reply. The thing with Mamiya C330 is that the widest lens is 55mm and I'd love to have something wider like 40mm for example

@@frozenf8 just had a thought. You could try adapting those wide angle adapters sold that fit onto the front of a lens and give a 0.45x conversion. They are of a type with a rear element that can be unscrewed to become a macro lens. They are sold under a variety of names and are described as a wide angle adapter with a macro capability, if that makes sense. They are not that expensive and come in a variety of screw threads. I have used them on other camera types and, if you bought a matching pair, one for the viewing lens and one for the taking lens, they may be what you are looking for. I would buy a pair that are bigger than you need to cover the mamiya, and use step down rings, because they would have a bigger image circle and would be better quality. Just put wide angle adapters into eBay and they should come up. As I said you are looking for the versions that are in two pieces and can also be a macro.

@@ChristopherJohnBall Thank you so much, I'll give it a try

Hi, many thanks for your comment. It gets far easier with practice and it really isn't that complicated with these Paterson type spirals. But I always recommend that my students, at the colleges I taught at, practice with a spare roll of film. Keep practising with the lights on. Then do it with lights on but eyes closed and then, when you feel more confident, try loading the spare test film in the dark. Once you get the hang of it, it is like riding a bike. I know that it can be daunting for some at first, it was for me, but practice really does make perfect in this case. So long as the reel is dry, it becomes second nature. I do actually prefer the stainless steel reels, that you load from the centre, that I used back in the day when I worked at a photography studio/lab. All the best, Chris

Many thanks Chris!

Many thanks. For you to be reminded of William Blake by my images is an amazing compliment. I really appreciate it. Many thanks again.

Hi Thomas, yes it is a great little camera. I love it. On the topic of the additional lenses. I am planning a review of both the Flektogon and the Cardinar very soon. Recently picked a set up but they need a clean. So watch this space.

Good job! How about just use leather to make bellow ? I know that is not easy

Hi, you can indeed make bellows out of thin leather - indeed many were made from leather. They still need support card struts and a second layer etc . I have used leather to replace bellows on some cameras. If the bellows only have minor damage, such as pin holes, I tend to try and repair in situ so that I can keep as much of the original camera as possible. Leather bellows actually tend not to suffer from that much damage - if the camera has been looked after. But yes, if the bellows can be made to still fit and allow the camera to close - thin leather can be perfect.

Hi, many thanks for your question. Some models of the Werra have a selenium light meter but most don't. And when they do the selenium has worn out and either doesn't work or gives an inaccurate reading. To work out the exposure, given the camera doesn't have a meter, you can use one of three methods. 1) the sunny 16 rule 2) use a light meter app for your phone - there are good free ones out there for both apple and android or 3) use a separate light meter. There are a few budget ones going second hand on well known auction sites.

Omg! This has been so helpful!! I recently to given this exact Walzflex, and I could not find a video like this. Quick question, once you shoot your first photo, I've heard you have to press the button so it allows to keep winding the film, aka "to unstuck" so that it moves to frame 2. is that true? or does it happen automatically?

@@mariananigro2234 Hi, many thanks for your comment. I am pleased you found the video helpful. the Walzflex is a great camera - doesn't get as much love as it should but I think that will change. In answer to your question; yes, after each shot you do press that button on the film advance wheel to get to the next exposure - you also need to cock the shutter. It isn't automatic. Once you have done it a few times it becomes second nature. Enjoy using your Walzflex.