No, I am not from Boston. I was born in Maine, and still live here.
@Ron-k8e7fСағат бұрын
that explains it was in service with a guy from Maine he had that same accent
@melissajohnson816018 сағат бұрын
God bless you n Gerard., I Hope is well too .Never forget Stratford hollow.lmao
@FrancisMcNally247 сағат бұрын
How could I forget the Stratford Hollow bog hog!! and the Manatee.
@melissajohnson816019 сағат бұрын
Perty cool Mac! meticulous. We dig it when possible. Bless yourmachinehead
@markgregush297020 сағат бұрын
Maybe you did it off camera but couple of observations: after you take off the dross, stir the babbitt, the metals can separate, and heaver ones drop to the bottom before you pour. After the babbitt/cap is cooled, tap on the cap, if it rings you have good adhesion, if it goes thud, you don't have proper adhesion and needs to be redone. Also, you should oil the crank journals before doing the lap in. Been using Time Saver for a while, like it very much. Good videos, thanks for posting them.
@iainblyth8550Күн бұрын
Your mill is amazingly accurate and obviously no wear on the slides!!
@edsmachine93Күн бұрын
Nice work Mac. I never seen lapping bearings in like that. I guess I am oblivious to that procedure. Does the lapping compound hurt the surface finish of the crankshaft journals. Does it require re-polishing? The engine paint looks beautiful. Nice job on the head surface. I have used Clevite Bearing Guard many years, it is good lube. 👍 Happy Thanksgiving. 👍
@FrancisMcNally247 сағат бұрын
The crank does not need polishing. The yellow timesaver only cuts soft metals like babbitt. Thank you for your kind words, and Happy Thanksgiving to you also!!
@edsmachine935 сағат бұрын
@FrancisMcNally24 Thanks Mac.👍🇺🇸👍
@Gen3AntiqueAutoКүн бұрын
Someone definitely either had a problem or a phobia with that wishbone. I was also nearly certain that was welded on - until you hit it! It's my turn to copy you now - guess what I'm tearing into on the "chicken coupe" next!
@Senses007-x8xКүн бұрын
something principal is wrong!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
@FrancisMcNally24Күн бұрын
I do not understand what you wrote for a comment.
@jeff1004921 сағат бұрын
What are you talking about? That was a perfect job.
@gertkristensen6451Күн бұрын
WHAT KIND OF ENGINE IS THAT..I DON'T REALLY KNOW WHAT IT'S FOR
@FrancisMcNally24Күн бұрын
1925 Model T Ford
@gertkristensen645115 сағат бұрын
@@FrancisMcNally24 OKAY nice old motor
@gertkristensen6451Күн бұрын
THE SURFACE FINISH IS NOT NICE. YOU NEED TO USE A TOOLBITS STEEL SHARPEN SO IT CAN CUT. OR BETTER INSERTS FOR DRILL ROD.. IT WILL TAKE A LONG TIME TO HONE TO SOMETHING THAT CAN BE USED FOR A CYLINDER.. YOU HAVE ALL THE OPTIONS SO USE THEM. I HAVE BORED MANY CYLINDERS, THE BORING HAS TO BE SO NICE AND SMOOTH, OTHERWISE IT WILL TAKE A VERY LONG TIME TO HONE IT IN A HONE MACHINE. IF YOU USE A HAND HONER, THE SURFACE FINISH IS VERY IMPORTANT. IT HAS TO BE SO NICE THAT YOU ONLY HAVE TO HONE FOR 3-5 MINUTES BEFORE CROSSHATZ AND THE FINISHED MEASUREMENT IS THERE. YES, YOU HAVE TO LEARN IT BEFORE IT GETS GOOD. YOU CAN ALWAYS PUT A LINER IN IF IT GOES COMPLETELY WRONG. 😀😀😀
@FrancisMcNally24Күн бұрын
Why are you yelling at me with all caps? The surface finish is good enough. The hone cleaned it up real nice, that is why I left .002" - .003", and it took me about 3 hours to completely hone it out. Look at the next video where I hone it, it looks ok to me. Like I have explained in my introduction video, I am not an "EXPERT" on this, just a reasonably knowledgeable individual. I am doing all this for fun, and something to do while freshly retired. I am sorry if it does not meet your "expert" abilities.
@gertkristensen6451Күн бұрын
@@FrancisMcNally24 didn't think about caps being on... sorry about that. I've worked with milling and turning/cnc for 45 years,, when I drill a 600cc mc cylinder I set the target -0.06 mm below the finished target.. and hone for max 3-5 min.. the first 0.03- 0.04 disappear with the first hone strokes. the last 0.02mm takes 3-4 min to remove. it requires practice and a very fine surface. it gives a 100% round and straight cylinder.. after that I hone with a flex honer to make a 30 degree cross hatch,, 98% of the work is done by making a nice and smooth surface and setting the target correctly. so next time you drill a cylinder you have something to look for.. I think your bad surfaces are because you don't have enough clearance behind the cutter and no postiv cutting edge and nose radius,, actually the steel you are using is not good for cast iron,, buy a toolbits steel and grind it 30 degrees on each side and move it up into the round hole on the drill head, then it will be more rigid = nice surface ...
@edsmachine933 күн бұрын
Looks great Mac.👍 Thanks for sharing. 👍🇺🇸👍💯
@FrancisMcNally24Күн бұрын
Your welcome, I glad you like it.
@edsmachine933 күн бұрын
Nice work Mac, machine does a nice job. 👍 I like the CNC. Nice boring head extension Mac. Did you make it? Thanks for sharing. 👍🇺🇸👍
@FrancisMcNally24Күн бұрын
Thanks, and yes I made the extension.
@jeff100493 күн бұрын
Nice Video, How much piston clearance are you running? In my experience less than .003 is asking for a scuffed piston in a T. I have the same Lisle bar hone and neway seat cutters.
@FrancisMcNally24Күн бұрын
I have .004" clearance after honing.
@jeff1004921 сағат бұрын
@@FrancisMcNally24 Perfect, I could not see the numbers on the bore gauge. Some pistons come with specs that get folks new to the hobby in trouble. I'd hate to see anyone do such excellent work only to have a problem. I assumed you had done your research but figured it never hurts to speak up and potentially save someone some grief. I enjoy the videos thanks for taking the time to make them.
@bigfastcustoms4 күн бұрын
Thanks for showing the process- Great information and easy to understand!
@FrancisMcNally24Күн бұрын
Thank You, I enjoy it.
@user-xwood4 күн бұрын
Beautiful shop
@melissajohnson81605 күн бұрын
You're so informative n tame here.
@melissajohnson81605 күн бұрын
N yeah, you still Rock
@melissajohnson81605 күн бұрын
You should publish just smooth machine noise in the can!! Drown out the military grade tinitus! What music? lol God Bless .Baker and the Bakelets!!
@grumpyg93505 күн бұрын
This was an epic video. Grass roots programming with an excellent outcome. Love the fact that you, being and old fart, loved the music.👍👍👏🏻👏🏻
@FrancisMcNally24Күн бұрын
Thank You. I enjoy doing this.
@usaerospace67076 күн бұрын
What brand or manufacture is your milling machine.
@FrancisMcNally24Күн бұрын
Acer Bed Mill
@user-xwood10 күн бұрын
Good stuff and good time, thanks for sharing
@tandemcompound210 күн бұрын
I spent 15 minutes worrying and figuring how you were going to move the table over on the x axis to get to the third cylinder and co and make it concentric-- then you hit the DRO and the rapid function. Zip it is over. A beginning machinist.
@ptv125010 күн бұрын
You should invest in some new vertical way covers. That cast iron dust will sit on those ways and literally destroy your machine.
@FrancisMcNally2410 күн бұрын
The way covers are fine. I put a new one on the z axis when I first bought the machine several years ago. All of the covers are in good shape, even though they might not look it on camera.
@Kevin-bn3ww10 күн бұрын
What make/brand/model machine is that? It almost looks like a hybrid of some kind. Spindle looks like a Bridgeport clone, but the rest is very different. Perfect machine for a home shop though. I like it!
@FrancisMcNally2410 күн бұрын
It is an Acer Bedmill with a Fagor 8055I 3 axis controller.
@theessexhunter130510 күн бұрын
Nice, the scary part was the chamfer!! Think I would have ground a 45 tool and used a short boring head Like the mill set up
@FrancisMcNally2410 күн бұрын
It is not scary at all. I have used it many times like this. Using a 45 degree tool in a boring head will cause chatter.
@theessexhunter130510 күн бұрын
@@FrancisMcNally24 That is the point lol I started on a Bridge port at 16 no dro no power feed. just the programme to cut the 45 I could not write being a manual miller lol
@Gen3AntiqueAuto25 күн бұрын
timing coincidence or are you copying us?
@FrancisMcNally24Күн бұрын
Just a coincidence. This model T was sitting in a barn for 63 years, almost like the chicken coupe you are working on. This one was in a lot worse shape. The body wood is all rotted, and a lot of the metal is rusted bad, and that is why I am going to make a speedster with it. I enjoy watching your videos, and have for several years. I think it is great that you can share what you do with your daughter, and she really seems to enjoy it. That is very special.
@Gen3AntiqueAutoКүн бұрын
@@FrancisMcNally24 I just wish I had that bridgeport here! I could do so much more.
@edsmachine9325 күн бұрын
Nice work Mac, and yes it was interesting how you did a program to circle interpolating the the valve seats. Thanks for sharing. 👍🇺🇸👍
@FrancisMcNally24Күн бұрын
Thank you for the kind words.
@desoto3749Ай бұрын
Great video....I have never disassembled a Model T engine so good learning experience for me. I do have a 1923 Huckster and someday maybe I will be doing more with it. Way to long a list of projects ahead of it. I really thought the engine came apart relatively easy. So far! I was surprised at the first two valves coming out so nice however the others showed a little more of the struggle they can be.
@jimdean7335Ай бұрын
I’m learning a lot. Thanks for showing your work.
@FrancisMcNally24Ай бұрын
I am happy that you are enjoying and learning. I am also enjoying showing the whole process to someone who is interested, like you. Keep watching and within the nest couple of years we will have a completed antique automobile!!
@RustyInventions-wz6irАй бұрын
Very nice work sir
@FrancisMcNally24Ай бұрын
Thank You for the complement.
@locodefraАй бұрын
Que aleacion babbit usa? Que me recomienda usar para hacer los metales de una motocicleta clásica?
@FrancisMcNally24Ай бұрын
I purchase the Babbitt ingots from Langs Old Car Parts. It is made from tin, antimony, and copper.
@locodefraАй бұрын
Que aleación babbit utiliza?
@FrancisMcNally24Ай бұрын
I purchase the Babbitt ingots from Langs Old Car Parts. It is made from tin, antimony, and copper.
@aldoblasigh7533Ай бұрын
I'm busy line boring a model a to take shall bearings
@edsmachine93Ай бұрын
Nice work Mac. Looks great.👍🇺🇸👍
@SteveCoffman-x6sАй бұрын
Hey Mac, Nice video. How do you go about getting those Jigs? Thanks
@FrancisMcNally24Ай бұрын
Thank you. The Ebay store where I bought the boring fixture and molds is vintagemotormachine. The gentleman's name is Gene French out of Colorado.
@willgrimeАй бұрын
It appears to me that you’d be better using two parts of your jig - the back plate and one end plate - and then filling the bearing from the end to avoid air entrainment. Would that work, or am I missing something? Fascinating video, though. Cheers from Will in Scotland
@FrancisMcNally24Ай бұрын
Would not be able to do that with the mold I have. It has a funnel in the center.
@markgregush297020 сағат бұрын
@@FrancisMcNally24 I have an extra end plate that I notched so I can pore the caps vertical. I added a removable plug to the pour spout.
@jimdean7335Ай бұрын
Watching all the work invoved in maching the rods really makes you appreciate the quality of work done in the mass production environment in a factory. Given that Henry accomplished that over 100 years ago is amazing. Your work is amazing too, I really like that milling machine you have.
@FrancisMcNally24Ай бұрын
Thank you for the complement, and yes it is amazing that this car was built 100 years ago with no computer aided design or CNC machinery.
@jimdean7335Ай бұрын
Did you make your own molds?
@FrancisMcNally24Ай бұрын
No, I purchased the mols from an Ebay Store named vintagemotormachine.
@jimdean7335Ай бұрын
Have you ever tried using your tig torch with stainless steel filler rod to weld cast iron. I’ve had some success doing it, but not on engine blocks.
@FrancisMcNally24Ай бұрын
I am not a very good welder, so no I have not. I do have a tig welder, but I am not comfortable trying that.
@tmodeltrentАй бұрын
Straightening the rod can be done in a matter of a few minutes using a connecting rod alignment gage. Stevens, NY and KR Wilson both made alignment gages, and it makes the job much easier.
@FrancisMcNally24Ай бұрын
Well that is fine if you have one, but I don't and I don't know where to get one, and even if I did, I do not have the funds available to purchase one. But I do have all this equipment in my shop from the last 24 years of working for myself, and now have the time because I am retired. I am just showing a possible way of doing it yourself. I am not worried of easier, I am worried about spending any more than I have to.
@edsmachine93Ай бұрын
Nice work Mac, nice process.👍🇺🇸👍
@FrancisMcNally24Ай бұрын
Thank you. I am not an expert, but I love doing this and learning while I do it.
@edsmachine93Ай бұрын
@@FrancisMcNally24 I think that you are doing a great job Mac. I can tell that you were a Tool and Die Machinist. 👍🇺🇸👍
@jimdean7335Ай бұрын
I’m a hobby machinst and I am in awe of your shop. I hope to see you use some of the equipment.
@edsmachine93Ай бұрын
Nice work Mac. Nice milling machine. I like your fixture idea. I just subscribed to your channel. Have a good weekend. 👍🇺🇸👍
@FrancisMcNally24Ай бұрын
Thank you. The milling machine with the Acu-Rite MillPwr controller is my favorite. It is easy to program, and can even take a .dxf file from any CAD package directly into it.
@edsmachine93Ай бұрын
@@FrancisMcNally24 Thanks Mac, I appreciate it. 👍
@jimdean7335Ай бұрын
I think its great that you are doing this. The Model T hobby has certainly aged so documenting the restoration process will be valuable for those brave enough to do a restoration, or repair, in the future. I’m actually a Model A guy but who knows maybe there is a Model T restoration in my future.
@eprofessioАй бұрын
Seems like it would be better to lightly press a dowel into the oil holes.
@FrancisMcNally24Ай бұрын
It would seem like it at first sight, but the holes are not a press fit for a dowel, and the rear one goes through the bearing body, but bottoms on a radius inside the engine. Using the damming compound is very easy.
@eprofessioАй бұрын
@@FrancisMcNally24 shows what I know. :) thank you for replying graciously.
@Gen3AntiqueAutoАй бұрын
I'd like to see the result of this on the road - drop a link for me if you made a follow up video. Taking 16 lbs off the flywheel will not slow the car down - you have something else different between your two cars if the heavier one will out run this one. That was one very interesting bed-iron splash system there, with bolts between just some of the paddles.... Did you get the flywheel balanced after either modification?
@RustyInventions-wz6irАй бұрын
Very nice work sir
@FrancisMcNally24Ай бұрын
Thank you. I enjoy this kind of work so much.
@robertpeters9438Ай бұрын
Interesting, I thought you would have to make copper or brass bolts to protect those holes in the iron block. Instead he used steel bolts. And I've never seen that hammering of the rabbit technique before. Great video.
@FrancisMcNally24Ай бұрын
The Babbitt will not stick to the steel bolts, just like it won't stick to the steel mold. KR Wilson makes a tool you can use with a hammer to do the same thing, But I like using the air hammer.
@obbyjep7597Ай бұрын
That was really neat, what did you use for the putty?
@FrancisMcNally24Ай бұрын
I use RotoMetals Casting Retainer Putty. Amazon has it for about $40 for a pound.
@robertgoff6479Ай бұрын
Don't know if you managed to ever get it in shot, because I couldn't watch the end of the screwdriver any more.
@FrancisMcNally24Ай бұрын
Sorry if my video is not perfect. You try doing this and try to film it yourself and let me know how you do. I am just doing this for something to do to use up my time while being retired. If you don't like it don't watch, because it is what it is!! I can't always see what is in the camera while I am busy.