@@tubingpro actually that is not the case at all . The issue is the Darco. .. I don’t do band aid fixes and damn well know what I am talking about

@@krstoner53 if you are unable to get the slide to move forward .. if it is fully extended then retract it about 1/2 way and try again.. this puts more of the weight of the slide inward on the wear bar and should give you some leverage to slide forward to center the slide side to side

@@loubrew8030 on the slave side you should see two bolts on the top side of the arm bracket .. loosen those to adjust the side to side synchronization See page 1 of this link. …. lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws.com/technical-information-sheets/slideouts/ccd_0001941.pdf

@@thealpinefifthwheelguy318thank you, will try that

@@loubrew8030 that will fix your issue

@@wandajames6234 the intent. Of my video is simplicity. If you want to measure the supply voltage coming to your particular control panel then by all means measure it

@@wandajames6234 use this link with wire diagram pin out on your Quadra Bigfoot system.. my video is on a Lippert level,up system which is entirely different nebula.wsimg.com/a69fe77f16987d06e252f3725b06c28e?AccessKeyId=C482E3B4FA9C11D5C622&disposition=0&alloworigin=1

I found some on Amazon they come in stainless steel or plastic.

Thank you

I bought mine off eBay.. thickness is 0.125 (1/8)..

@@thealpinefifthwheelguy318 did you do both slides? one of my slides has the wear bar where you can see it as it is a drop slide the other slide( refrigferator, stove etc. which does not drop not sure on what it rides on as it goes in and out?

If this is for hydraulic slide outs then this is the clip on seal I order and use. Enough to easily do one large slide both top and sides www.amazon.com/AP-Products-018-546-Clip-Wiper/dp/B077Y3QPVC/ref=sr_1_3?hvadid=557326406303&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9021351&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=7218796865527104003&hvtargid=kwd-923097583337&hydadcr=8375_13469708&keywords=ap+products+018+546&qid=1696179141&sr=8-3

Hydac valves are fairly reliable but if one is sticking open or not opening when 12 vdc is applied t9 the coil that slides over the cartridge then the valve can’t function normally… that is why there is a manual override screw at the end of each valve

By reseating both the red wire and the connection on the backside of the level up panel I mean remove it and reinstall it.. doing so wipes the contacts on the boards and connection which in many cases will correct the issue at hand

If the hydraulic slides don’t move AND the hydraulic pump motor is running then most likely the Hydac cartridge valve that MUST OPEN is not electrically opening ..inside the hydraulic compartment look for 3 Hydac valves.. one is for ALL hydraulic slides and the other two are for the mid and rear leveling legs Check if there is 12 vdc to the Hydac valve for the slides when a helper operated the slides.. if no 12 vdc then must fix wiring issue.. if you HAVE 12 vdc then either the slip on electric coil on that Hydac valve has failed or the Hydac valve is stuck closed or has junk on the orifices inside the valve

I have several videos on my KZbin channel showing how to test and verify those cartridge valves

This video should help you. kzbin.info/www/bejne/m2rHl6yooa95i9ksi=ccWCUB2ZxGyHceiG

If the shackle broke then you had other issues .. I’ve been working on RVs for well over 40 years and have owned many units The axle shackles Have to support the weight on each side of the axle If they can’t then the leaf springs can’t possible support the weight of the RV when the tire is on the ground and the shackles are holding the leaf springs attached to the frame

@@thealpinefifthwheelguy318

There are NO INSID fins.l this is a ducted AC on the RV,..the airflow was severely restricted due to all the excess foam and lack of proper HVAC tape being installed

Of course it does.. you are opening up the passage ways under the AC to allow air to flow better thru both the return grill side and the evap coil side.l your AC units will perform significantly better if you have excessive spray foam and tape from the factory install blocking those passages,

@@thealpinefifthwheelguy318 thanks for the info

I would do an internal bypass leak test on the leveler that is creeping down and the one it is tandem with.. the mid and rear levelers on each side are in tandem with each on the same side.. if one leaks it affects both..

On your case I would use a Jack and lift the slide just enough to slide the UHMW past the roller ..

This video,should help you resolve your airflow issues. Also reseal the interior overhead ducts and look up inside those ducts with a cell phone camera set to video mode and have the flash on so you can turn cell around and get a video of the inside of the ducts and make sure they aren’t collapsed as well

Glad the video provided some assistance

If you have done the cylinder internal bypass leak test and either of the front LG has failed most any good local hydraulic shop can rebuild the cylinder for you at way less cost then buying a new one

@@thealpinefifthwheelguy318 Have not done that test. Do you have information on it? Have considered the hydraulic shop solution.

The on and off switch can be tested with multimeter , power removed, meter set to ohms and oh, bitch connections on switch while toggling ..should show continuity one way and none the other.. the two thermostats will measure full continuity unless the temp set point has been reached,, to test the ignitor you would need a tester

Of course.. the valve is what controls fluid flow.it’s normal state is closed and opened electrically via the solenoid over the Hydac valve