Thanks for the comment. The scope cable was with my 369, however the ends did not work for my scope. So I added a little board that allowed me to clip my scope leads to it. If you don't have one just use a couple of BNC connectors for the X and Y and remove the 2 pin (ground is on the outer ring connector. I feel it would work better. Otherwise put 2 finish nails in the pin holes and clip the scopes 2 probes to each and ground to the outer ring. As far as the 10.7 MHz crystal, I bought one off of EBay and hollowed out a crystal holder and soldered the modern one in. Now having said all of this, the 369 will get a badly adjusted FM radio in the ballpark but you may have to tweak it by ear to get it right. All this stuff you add onto the tuned circuits loads them and changes them some. Furthermore most radios worked on just got caps replaced and maybe a few resistors and were not bad out of tune and simply tweaking them made them sound fine. However it's kind of fun making the curves and moving the marker, it really helps understand how FM works. Good luck.

@@joshbowman4060 Thanks for the reply back. This was very helpful.

You certainly can do it with an RF signal generator, if it's not too far of out of alignment. most or not very far out of alignment if out at all and can be aligned effectively just by ear even. Also remember everything you connect to the circuit will load the circuit and eventually you'll have to tweak a little by ear anyway. Good luck

Yes I am!

Pat, thanks for the comment. Neither of these hacks did much to improve the 369, but were fun to do. 1st the blanking is done by opening the feed to pin #3 of V3A (12AX7). I simply removed R13, R18 and C31 from pin #3 and put them on an empty solder lug nearby. I then attached the SPST switch to Pin#3 and the lug with R13, R18 and C3. The RF out is a coax from a BNC t the J3 X-TAL's leg via a 101 capacitor to pin 1 of the 29758 (PC3). Hopefully that will help.....frankly I can't remember where I got these hacks. BTW, the PC3 is most likely made of unatainable, so don't harm it. Again, I really don't thing these hacks improved much.

@@tinkeringwithelectronics thanks for the reply on the 369 Eico. Looking forward to more of your vids.

LOL! This couldn't be simpler! All you're seeing is 2 piece of aluminum channel. I just drilled holes in the side of the channels and treaded for a 1/4" bolt that is back treaded with a nut. Don't allow the bolts to protrude through the channel, this will interfere with the chassis being mounted. I added spaces between the nut and the from to allow for stuff like the dial to clear. This is all mounted in a wooden frame. The extra vertical holes in the wooden frame allow for bigger chassis'. As far as mounting the chassis, I utilize the same screws and holes that hold the chassis in the case. Nothing fancy here. I just used the manufacturers threaded mounting holes to hold it to the channel. You'll find that just a few holes are needed in the channel to adapt to most chassis.

The Eico 369, connects directly to the radio. But to be clear, the sweep generators output is attached down stream of the radios dectector/discrimanator. As fun as it is using a seeep generator and making the S curve. You can do better by tuning by ear. Seems no matter how good of a curve I made, the radio never sounded good. So I'd always finish by tuning to a station and adjusting until it sounded good. Hope this helps. Josh

Been a while, but it tested good.

Thanks

That's great. Truth be known, after I remove the equipment, I still have to touch it up br ear. Anything that connects to RF messes with the signal.

In my cases, the marker is separate from the sweep. Not certain what you’re asking about the “particular output” purposes. But discussing the many markers on the Heathkit, there markers are for peaking a TV.

Glad it helped

Thank you! Cheers!

Thanks Don.

Don, just got back from 5 days camping. The weather was great!

@@tinkeringwithelectronics Glad y’all had an enjoyable time and I’m looking forward to your next update. Best, Don

Thanks Larry

Thanks

Love it! I need to come up with something like that.

That's correct

Thank you

Carl, just to prove your point, I did a complete alignment by ear only and it worked great.

So I am guessing that you do the tweaking with the volume up on a good local station?

Yes Carl! Thank you for saying something. By ear first, and then fine tune the waveform with the oscilloscope. That is so much quicker.

@@jdmccorful Use a signal generator so that you can control the strength.

Forgot to mention: Make sure to make the ramp signal going EXACTLY from 0 to 5 V by setting it to amplitude 5 V with a DC offset of 2.5 V. The manual (at least for the 6800) is rather ambiguous in this regard...

Thanks! I'll try that.

Thanks Robert. Frankly, for my purposes, I can't see anything wrong with Heathkit stuff. And as you said, you have some of the best documentation for repairing it.

Thanks Jack. My knowledge on DSO's is limited to my Hantek. That's good information.

I hope to see a video on your Eico. Even though already assembled, the Distortion meter was like new out of the box! Not a scratch or even any dust on the cabinet. Big contrast to the smoke stained amp!

The sweep function is useless for that purpose as it does not give you any trigger output in order to sync your timebase. That's why also TwE uses the VCO to control the sweeping frequency via the ramp signal on Ch. 2. (more about that see my earlier post here...).

Nope not related. I wouldn't even recognize him in a crowd if he had his gloves on ;) We do both have southern country boy accents.