I guess so is commenting like passive aggressive child

Your welcome glade you liked the video👍

Glad it helped you out, I know instructions that come with these aren’t always the best

Yes it’s some cheap Behr from Home Depot

If you have some experience rolling doors like this, you should be able to go the whole length. A big part of keeping the finish smooth is applying the correct amount of paint. Temperature, etc all factor in. If your paint starts leaving texture, change your roller cover and paint to a fresh set up

Awesome. Glad to hear it helped you out

Good tip, thank you

Great comment!

Thanks for watching! I appreciate the comment

@@staggsbefixin8326 How do you manipulate the brush to get paint into the corner of a window sash and the glass without needing to mask?

@@hemi1045 there are a few ways to do that. I’ll make a video about brushing out windows

I appreciate the advice. I can’t fit all the different methods into one video or else it would be too long. This is just one way. I have multiple methods for just about every process. I’d avoid caulking tape, it never comes out right and not necessary. I’ve been handling tape like that for over 20 years without issue

@@staggsbefixin8326 I hardly caulk my tape unless I know it’s a huge void on the textured wall but if you pull the trigger and spray it with a airless you usually get a clean straight line it doesn’t bleed like with a brush or roller

Thanks for the tip. I’ve mainly used Diablo over the years. Didn’t use the cheap ones enough to see how they last but I’ll take your word for it and just like most things it’s always better to pay a little more

Good stuff! Thanks for leaving some great tips.

What is the casing and base material? Also, what did you use to patch and what kind of primer. I can most likely help you troubleshoot what’s going on

@@staggsbefixin8326 The casing is 2.5" flat front MDF (preprimed and I even prepainted it using BM Advance paint in Satin) and the base is 6" flat mdf. I installed the door casing and created a more decorate header above each door which is 3 different pieces of trim. When I shot the door casing (floor guys installed the base) my nail gun didn't really set the nails so I used a nail set which blew out the nail hole just a tad. I sanded each nail hole and first used Dap Plastic Wood which turned out to be a pain to sand smooth so I started using Dap Dry Dex. After everything was dry I used a sanding block but wrapped a piece of 220 grit sand paper around it. I sanded like crazy. I determined that I could still feel the nail holes or the blow out so I decided to try using my multi-tool sander which ended up taking the MDF down to bare wood. I started to repaint using the MB Advance. Everything bled thru so I sanded and primed again. Still everything has bled thru. I sanded again and primed again. Still bleed through plus there are places where the primer isn't really adhering...almost like a water and oil thing going on. I read a comment on another site where someone was having the exact same problem and someone suggested they go back and sand and then paint the trim a flat, sand and then paint the semi-gloss (I'm using Satin). So I just painted the casing the same color but in flat and I am still getting bleed thru. Luckily I am only working on 2 doors so far but I need to figure out what I did wrong before I continue with all the remaining doors upstairs. I have never had this much problem painting before and with all the time and money I have spent on this new trim I want it to look much better than what I've got going right now. I appreciate any feedback you can provide. Thank you.

@@MP-yz6sb I bet it’s an issue with the plastic wood. It’s not really made for the application and I don’t think it’s compatible with water based products ( I could be wrong). I’d use an oil based primer like Cover Stain.You can spot prime the bleed spots and see if that locks the bleed in. Test a small section like a door jamb. This type of primer has solved a lot of stain and adhesion issues for me over the years. Typically, I’ll use Crawfords Putty to prep nail holes, prime with oil base and then put two coats of latex or oil based finish over the top. Can also use spackle and prime with latex for nail holes. Let me know if that works. You might need to sand a little first and it might work without so you can try both ways.

@@staggsbefixin8326 Thank you so much for taking the time to read my long message and reply. What is weird about all of this is it's not just the nail holes that are bleeding through. It's some of the edges of the casing where my multi-tool sanded off all the factory primer. Those are not areas that I used the plastic wood on. I will try to find a good oil base primer. I've not heard of Crawfords Putty before and don't recall seeing it in the big box stores in my part of the country. Thank you again for your suggestions. I greatly appreciate it.

@@MP-yz6sb that also makes sense if the primer on the mdf was taken off. I always coat bare mdf with oil base as well. Water base can make it swell. Put some oil primer on it and then sand with 220 and should smooth it out and accept the paint well. Might need to prime again after you sand.

Less trips to empty out the sawdust

It’s really hard to get the doors out after they’re installed. Might not be possible without breaking something. If the doors aren’t locked in to the cabinet, you should be able to pry out the pieces on the ends with something thin.

That’s a bummer. There must have been some adhesion issue with the previous paint. Thankfully I’ve never had that happen to that extreme. Sounds like you are fixing the problem correctly. Enjoy your project!

2 coats should do it, even over a dark color. Did you use an oil base primer? Sometimes you’ll need to to prevent the bleed through. Without the right primer, you can put multiple coats and still get the bleed spots. Let me know what primer and paint you’re using and I might be able to get a good idea of what’s going on

@@staggsbefixin8326 Thank you for the reply… I used kilz latex primer and Vaspar ultra white semi white. I live in FL for it is hot outside and AC and ceilings fans are on 24/7. The 2 doors I did do are so tacky with holidays and visible paint marks. I am selling my house and need to update the doors to white to make them modern. Can’t afford to replace them all. 11 doors which include closet sliding doors! Thank you for taking the time with your advice!

@@joannegonet5841 I imagine it’s very tough to do with the humidity. From what it sounds like you’ll want to make sure your primer is stain blocking or you’ll get the streaks and bleed. If there are really dark stains after you prime, you can prime those spots a second time to make sure the paint covers. Let it dry for day before another coat

Bin primer

I made a video about that. Check it out

Not sure. I’ve heard it for years so I’m assuming before it was born. Might be a geographical thing, like how in some areas people call shopping carts “buggy”

Hope the video helps you out

I’m real proud of you. I like to think outside the box. Enjoy retirement

I agree and I explain that in my baseboards video. This video is for people wanting to get better at cut in and the only way is practice.

@@staggsbefixin8326 they dont and won't "practise" tho. Take hours and hours to get good at cutting in. Even then, masking tape often has to be used to get a perfect line.

@@occidentadvocate.9759 people who want to learn how to cut in will practice and if they don’t, I don’t care. I made the video in case someone wants to

I see it coming. The abundance of trade jobs I think will slow down soon. The ability to be adaptable to the market is key and I want to help people adjust. I’m glad you found it helpful.

If it doesn’t get used. It works great to put your brush somewhere while climbing a ladder or on a roof, putting your brush somewhere while rolling something for a minute Haven’t ruined a brush doing it in over 20 years

With a gap like that you are correct. Still faster for me to brush without tape or paper. I only tape off base if there’s carpet or I’m spraying

@@staggsbefixin8326 makes sense.

Another method faster than tape or freehand is to use an eight or ten inch drywall knife at the floor.

@@gianthills I’ve tried that method before. They even sell tools in the paint store for that. I bet it is faster, I just never got into the habit of using them

@@staggsbefixin8326 ive seen those but theyre usually thicker than a drywall knife , especially a carbon steel blade which are almost razor thin.

Frog tape would be easier to use and would help to ensure a nice tape line. I wanted to demonstrate with blue tape because it’s a little more cost effective and I wanted show how to prevent paint bleed.

I’m really glad to hear that. The main goal of my channel is to help people out. Thank you for watching!

Humidity shouldn’t affect the pull, though it can be a hinderance on exteriors and prevent the tape from sticking. Leaving tape on a surface for too long can affect the pull. For the majority of time, I use regular masking tape from Home Depot and never have an issue. A lot of tape salesmen out there try to make you think otherwise