Thanks Mr. Blackburn! I want to try to use one of these some day soon.

Some super sim0le idea, but not as obvious as I would have thought for a new hand tool wood worker. Thanks for the explanations.

Of course, when using that notched table fixture when using a coping or fret saw, the orientation of the teeth is not preferential but must be on the pull stroke in order to keep the workpiece against the deck.

Carpenter penxils are very dynamic if you think outside of the box. For example, the lead is thick ao you can ahape it however you want, and since there is no eraser you can have two different shaped points. P.s. The thickness is 5/16"... They're way more useful than a regular pencil. 😊

I've just watched a couple of videos by Bill & Sarah Carter. His planes are pieces of art!

I thought for a long time double bevel marking knives were OK because you put in the mark and then slide the square up to it. So the mark would not move. Now I know better. The mark does move. It widens on 2 sides that way. Thanks Graham. On the downside though I need to build the skill to get as accurate as 1/2 the width of a deep marking cut or this won’t help me at all. There is a new but tiny dot on a far far horizon now 😊

Thank you for sharing. Interesting video yet again.

A Jewellers Saw will use broken blades to give you a stiffer cut. Two reasons to use it

Thank you Sir.🎉

Excellent video on these useful saws. 👍

My understanding is that one points the teeth of a coping saw toward the handle when holding the work flat and employing a bench hook; when holding the work vertically, as you have it for demonstrating the keyhole saw, one points the teeth away from the handle so that it cuts on the push stroke like a panel saw. Also, if one sets the work on a low bench and then kneels on it, the push stroke works best.

Thank you Sir.🎉

ALL your videos are exceptional and thanks for posting such comprehensive, informative content. If I may be allowed, I would wear the microphone at the top of the bib of your apron where it is less likely to be knocked. Thanks once again.

I'm glad to see you cover my favorite, the Free saw. If you remember i commented on an older video, a year or so ago how you are one of the key people in me figuring it out i know that blades was not the purpose of this video but i would like to saw I've learn a lot since than. I've learn that there are many types of blades that not only denotes the blade thickness but also teeth style. I've become partial to Crown and Ultra Reverse. But i do have some skip tooth that cut pretty will. I do have one tip i would like to share. If you take and cut sand paper into even 1/8 in to 1/4 in strips, you can put them in the Fret saw to sand your saw marks. Would you be comfortable with me sharing a Google folder of pics that show some of my work.

Wie gewohnt, die Lehrfilme sind sehr interessant und toll gemacht! Danke

Love your videos. The sound quality has improved since you started, but I think you need a place for the microphone where it can't get bumped. You deserve more subscribers!

Very informative. Like @timothymalion, I was taught to use the fret saw and the jeweler's saw with the teeth down - especially when making jewelry where a bird's mouth is nearly always used. Are ANY of these commonly used in cabinet making? Thank you very much for sharing.

13:15 I have always been taught that with a fret saw and coping saw, the teeth should be on the down stroke because, especially if you're using the fret saw with a bird mouth hook, like you show in your vise, the down stroke will keep the work on the bench, whereas if you have the teeth on the upstroke, the work will lift off the bench or bird mouth. And also, when you have the teeth on the downstroke, it keeps tension on the frame, but if it were on the upstroke, it loosens tension on the frame

This was actually great, as all your videos are - and thank you for going over the material 😎

Thank you.

Wow,educational.At age 66 years young,still learning

Those narrow saws also come in handy when you need to make a cut in a small hole or area where you can't get a larger saw into. I've used sheetrock saws before but with a wood cutting blade. Great for tight spots!

Not a wasted word.

Thanks

Hello, Esteemed Mr. Carpenter from Poland, I have great respect for craftsmen using older carpentry techniques. I wish you health and God's Protection. Congratulations and best regards 💖👋😀.

The fillister Plane in this Video, Who is the Maker of it. You have some extremely helpful Videos Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

To use a carpenter's pencil precisely, you mark a wide line whose edge is where you want to cut, and cut on that edge of the line.

Thank you Sir. This is very interesting and important. I am intrigued.

I need a nail pusher.

Great information!

Thanks!

My problem with wooden rulers is their thickness. Depending on how plum you look (or hold the knife) the measurement deviates a lot. This is why I hardly use them for fine work, just for rough length cutting and the like. If I need to measure exaktly, I prefer a thin metal ruler. You get a point with the tape measures. But I would say, just as you reference one wood at the other and the exact number is meaningless, the tape measurement is allowed to deviate a bit, as long as you always use the same measure in this one project. As such, I personally prefer tape measures (because they are thin) over wooden rulers for long dimensions. In carpentry, drywalling and such I simply mix everything that comes handy. As you said, it plays no role there.

i have a German wooden plane that has a metal strike button at it's back. Previously, before learnign about planes, I never knew why it was there

Thank you, your videos have been helpful in learning the correct terminology for some boatbuilder tools we are cataloging.

Graham you are a wealth of knowledge! I treasure my #5 also..

Great there friend super good = your vids have so much information to teach every one if you just listen and pay attention =thank you on an art that is slowly going to be forgotten

Excellent tip for marking a length on all four faces, by extending the mark from one side and then flip to mark the opposite side. I assume? this allows consistency from the reference plane?

Thanks, I have been enjoying the trip through your planes.

Back when I was learning in the late 1970's, we were told to call our winding sticks 'slave and master'

Thank you for this nice overview. In continental Europe frame saws were used instead of panel saws, also on the push stroke and they are still produced up to ~28". Nowadays they are very popular with japanese universal cut blades an used on pull as well as push stroke. An important difference is the grip: You put your hand at the lower end of the brace and let your wrist rest on the handle. This is easier on your hand and gives better control for the cut, especially for the larger versions. Thank you for lots of good episodes!

i wish my grandfather to live a bit longer. he was a cooper. and he told me some bits, but i was to young (9 years old).

Your last bit you kind of sped through, but it really deserves it's own video. Put the knife in the first mark and bring over the square. When you do that, the square was referencing the edge away from you (as you had it). The you put the knife at the mark at the other side of the board and using the square, you referenced off the top face of the board. You then go back to the first mark which is right, but in going fast you referenced off the bottom face of the board when you should have turned the square around and kept referencing of the same top face. And then finally if you wanted a knife mark all the way around, you use the square on the same side when you first knifed the board to get knife lines that will join up. Great stuff as always though and I know that wasn't your major point. Thanks!

Nice apron...Marc Adams School of Woodworking!!!

As always, clear, eminently useful information. Thank you!

That’s a great point on the tape measure end. But here’s another reason why I’m not a fan of them … if you lay three tape measures side by side, I’d venture to say that none of them will line up to the others within 2”. One will be 2”, one will be 1-13/16” and one will be 2-31/32”. They just aren’t as reliable as most people think they are. Great video as always, Graham! Thank you SO much for sharing your knowledge with all of us!

Awesome advice.

Story sticks, pinch rods and sectors get a lot more use in my shop than my rules.

Nice share. I use a sector and story sticks more than a ruler.

Went I was 24 I start a shop from renting a old one the two of us all run from a engin whit strap to run the machine.. We dint used measuring tape just one time we made a stick whit mark from a dried wall knife and a same square that you have clam the stick to the pieces of wood and mark as you said knife first …I am 72 and still love use the tape less as possible can be used for doors windows furniture and more

Very helpful advice. Thank you for sharing.