Thank you! I would join the top with biscuits or dowels, go with sturdier curtain rod holders for the handle (maybe diy from steel), and go with a bigger smoker lol. I have used mine a dozen times now and the one thing I want is a little more grill space and height. I think my cart will fit a bigger smoker, but it’s something to consider while designing.

Titebond 2. Three is also a good choice, I just find 2 is plenty for most things.

atcaw94 Hey thanks! It’s a 4.8 amp corded jigsaw, I used a longer (4”) large tooth blade labeled for cutting “lumber”, set the speed up for solid wood, and it always helps to clamp down what you are cutting with a jigsaw.

3/8” plywood for the first two layers of the skate deck. The top layer you skate on is painted 1/4” ply. The frame is made of 3/4” plywood as well as the standing deck.

matt o (Sanded with 120 and 220 on top and handle) I ended up using some clear Thompsons water seal. Just decided to use what I had on hand. I applied a heavy coat over the whole cart and re-coated the top.

Hey, so I did make some drawings first, but I kind of played it loose as I built it so they may not be exact to whats in the video. But the general measurements are, tabletop: 40”x24.5”, table height is: 37”, grill deck sits 11.5” below the table, and the circle I cut out is 16.5” in diameter. I like the grill height compared to the table, I do think the circle I cut out could be a bit smaller. I was worried about charring but the double wall really doesn’t put off much heat. I kind of had limited tools and funds for this project so my only regret is not doing biscuits or dowels when joining the tabletop. It hasn’t failed yet for me through multiple rains and a snow, but I think a biscuit joined top would have better longevity.

@@MrJakeh24 thank you

24 feet

24ft

Hi, so the ramp is definitely big enough to practice and learn blunt and lip tricks. I will be honest though, if you are already comfortable skating vert I would build a 4ft miniramp, that would give you comfortable room for more advanced tricks.

Length 24ft

on the website it is 6' wide and 24' long. The website is diy skate just go there and you will find all of the instructions.

@@anthonyvanderheyden8256 thanks

@@blacksmokehockey2653 no problem my guy

Its already pretty narrow at 8ft to be honest. 8ft gives you just enough room, I think that 7ft would make you feel pretty cramped and lead to riding off the ramp more often.

3’ high, 8’ wide, and 24’ from end to end. The decks are 33” wide, so I guess if you mean from coping to coping it is 18.5’

LittleFire 24’

The finished ramp is 24' x 8'. It has held up pretty well, the side that is always exposed to the sun fades faster and takes the most wear, so maybe something to consider when choosing a location. I re-coated the ramp this summer, I used a pole sander to go over the ramp then repainted the ramp with a fresh coat of polyurethane. I also put a fresh coat of deck sealer onto the deck and siding. If you go with 1/4" plywood for the surface I would go with the highest grade you can. Any small voids within your top ply will break through eventually. Not like a hole, but a crack and dent will develop. It's not super noticeable when you skate over it but will cause an entrance for water and will probably chip further, I had two small voids that eventually cracked, I just used some putty and painted over them with more poly. If a section ever gets bad enough I should be able to just replace that sheet.

Treating all of the lumber for outdoor use is the main thing inflating the cost. Just lumber, coping, and screws is closer to $500.

The skate surface is painted with porch polyurethane oil paint. If you mean cover the ramp like a tarp, I tried one once but it ripped after the first wind storm so I just leave it exposed now.

@shadowmang how does it hold up to the elements after a while

The ramp is 8 feet wide.

I think it has worked great. It's very fun to skate, I would use the same method if I built another.

Everything has held up well, I used a pole sander this summer to clean off the ramp and then re-coat all the exposed surfaces (ramp with polyurethane, sides and top deck with water sealer for decks). I also sweep it off when it snows here. The top layer is 1/4 inch plywood that I coated on all sides with polyurethane oil paint for porches. For the foundation I used Bricks because I have a lot from tearing down a chimney, but cinder blocks or pavers would also work. I could have spent more time compacting the ground and putting down road base or gravel but I haven't run into any problems with settling yet.

I used Glidden, "Porch & Floor", Gloss, Polyurethane Oil Paint.

@@MrJakeh24 Ok, thank you for telling me, will definitely be using it.

The full material list is on the DIYskate . com website under 3ft miniramp. I used 1/4" plywood painted with polyurethane porch paint instead of masonite for the skate surface, and treated all of the wood with deck sealant.