@@tjrubi7463 This needs to be done to change the track, but yeah. I've never had to replace the brake rotor in a snowmobile.

@@alecsantos3805 that sled was special

Spill the beans! 😂

Northwest. About as far north and west as you can ride a snowmobile

@@Lasersgoespewpew I don't think there is one. There's some rivets to attach the tub body to the frame that kind of look like grease fittings.

@@j.p.6228 Yeah I always have a little set back. Pretty minimal on that board though it was probably an inch. I wasn't expecting powder that's my park board.

@@SnowmobileHomeMovies gotcha okay! good to see it can still handle itself in some powder

@@Ryanbalazs yeah that's a good point. I've seen this more as my sleds get older. Here's what works for me. Corrosion and dirt make them not want to go back together. Get some Scotch Brite and scour the surfaces of both pieces really good. Apply a thin coat of heavy grease on the cleaned surfaces to ease the pressing back on. Tighten the bolts a little at a time evenly on all sides so it presses on straight. That should get you there

@@teeimsaza5718 6'1" 250 pounds at the time. If you're asking about the board, I hate that board. The nose is too floppy and can dive, and the board is too wide. I bought it for the deepest days but I have other boards that float just as well and perform a lot better.

My current big power board is a Capita Navigator 164 it's way better in all conditions.

@@SnowmobileHomeMovies Oh damn... dude i'm glad to hear this, was about to pull the trigger on a 162 but i'll just keep riding my current boards then. I'l check out the navigator actually. Thanks man

Lol

No. Maybe 1/4" at most. This is a park and jib board for me and I ride a ton of switch.

If I was using it as a powder board exclusively I would set it back a little. I really only ride powder on this board by accident. I'm assuming you have the 156. I have the 159 now too but I prefer the 156, it's just more lively and fun.

@@SnowmobileHomeMovies yeah i got the 156 and was riding powder the last couple of days...i'm thinking about setting the bindings back just a bit in general. Do you use any forward lean?

@@DorMeles yeah always a little forward lean. When trying to stand up straight the high backs should force your knees to bend just a little. From there, if I'm setting up new bindings, I have to test ride half a run to see if the forward lean is really where I want it. You will get a sense of where you want it, you need it for heel edge power but you also want to be able to mostly straighten your legs sometimes, so not too much.

@@SnowmobileHomeMovies Roger that! I've found that when I rotate outwards around 15 degrees on my front foot, i like to add a few notches

I have never worked on the trail sleds but my understanding is the drivetrain is exactly the same. The caliper is pressed onto the drive shaft bearing, and the drive shaft bearing is inside the tunnel, while the caliper is outside the tunnel. You definitely need some kind of puller unless you get really really lucky. There are better pullers available than what I used in the video but they'll work the same way. Check out my close ups in the video showing how it works.

Well, you are still not doing "wheelies". lol Ya have to think of another phrase that involves ski's.

Yup and there were no other videos showing how the puller really works at the time I made this. Understanding that the caliper is pressed onto a bearing *inside the tunnel* is the biggest point. The caliper won't just pry off unless you're really lucky.

Freeing up the drive shaft is pretty important to be able to get the puller tool in place. Even if you're using one of the nicer ones. I'd say it may be possible to remove the caliper without touching the chain case, sometimes the caliper comes off easier than you would think, but generally you do need to remove the bottom sprocket

So then all reeds are the same and there's no difference between any material type or number of rows or anything, all reeds are the same. Sorry no. I highly recommend these reeds on the 600HO they are absolutely an improvement over stock and nobody paid me to say that. If I had another 600HO I would do it again. And clutching. Both have major room for improvement on that engine and both are needed, not one or the other. Not all engines benefit from different reeds but this engine does. I would not change the stock reeds on an etec 850 because those reeds have a high performance design stock, unlike the 600HO. I'm not selling anything here I'm just showing you what I used, showed that there was no wear after 2000 miles, and that there is an obvious difference between these reeds and stock. If you can't understand how a faster intake valve can improve bottom-end compression at low engine speeds, there's nothing I can say, but they can. Reeds do nothing at WOT, the improvement is all low midrange, but that range matters.

@@SnowmobileHomeMovies reeds only change responsiveness there is no gains from reeds. There are different weights of reeds light reeds open faster at lower rpms which means you go through rpm range faster but they flutter at wide open and if held long enough you actually lose power from it and then you have heavy weight reeds that are slower to open meaning longer through rpms but don't flutter at wide open. There are different weight reeds for different riding styles and for where the sled runs in it's rpms the number of reed pettles dont mean nothing a 2 stroke will only pull in what air the pipe allows it to you are not increasing any air intake on a 2 stroke unless you change pipes or add a turbo. There is no power gains or increase in horsepower with reeds you are only changing the amount of time through rpms in lameman's term changing throttle response. You can save the 300 or 400 bucks spent on reeds and spend 100 to 150 on clutching and get the same effect as changing reeds. Power in 2 strokes is made in pipes and port configeration and timing and ignition timing reeds are not a power adder or changes horsepower what so ever they only change time through rpms. They do not increase amount of air drawn into a 2 stroke only the pipe does that because 2 strokes work on a scavaging effect reason for no valves in a 2 stroke the signal and amount of heat through a pipe is what tells the engine what amount of air it draws in. There are many videos through out the internet that shows how 2 strokes work. If reeds added more air to a 2 stroke then you'd have to jet up and if they added so much that it is compressed in bottom end you'd have to change ignition timing but changing reeds you do neither a jet change nor ignition timing change because they don't increase air flow they change time through rpms which can also be done through clutching for less money. I'd say there is a performance shop some place near you that has a flow bench take your stock reed cages and your aftermarket cages to them and for a few buck they can flow them and most can give you a print out that will put it on paper and show you there is no increase in air only pressure changes in opening and closing which is response most any performance shop wether automotive or powersports either have a flow bench or has use of one and everyone I have ever owned or used has a printer attached get a print out on your reeds you'll be amazed what you'll learn and after you learn what is printed in front of you you can then play with different weight reed pettles. Most shops will flow reeds for 10 to 15 bucks if they have to cut a plate it might be an extra 5 bucks I charge 3 bucks per block to flow reeds because I have all the plates for just about every 2 stroke engine because thats all I do on my bench is reeds and carbs and cylinders and pipes for everything from hot saws to mopeds we are a pipe and port shop and also asphault sled racers and do a little snocross on the off season of asphault racing but our 3 snocross sleds are all piston port 2 strokers which have no reeds. Again reeds do nothing but change time through rpms they don't add air nor do they add any power they simply change time through rpms reason for so many different weight reeds they are like clutch weights and springs and helixes and once you get a flow test done and understand what they actually do and how they work it will open a complete new door of tuning a 2 stroke to you because once you start to understand them completely then you can start mixing reeds with clutching and then you can start adding custom pipes to the mix. Reeds are like silencers or cans on strokes different cans and silencers change sound but do not change power what so ever only pipe changes and port work and with port work comes ignition timing changes those are your power adders and only way to change power in a 2 stroke yeah sure you can change drivers and gears and add horsepower to track but your engine horsepower is still the same. Changing the amount of time through rpms either by reeds or clutching yeah it feels different but your engine horsepower is still the same. My Thundercat dynos any place from 500 to 705 horsepower with only changes being pipes and jets but I can make same reaction times off the line at 500 horse as I can at the full 705 horse just by changing reed weights it's all they do is change response pipes are what sets your engine horsepower in 2 strokes Polaris Ultra 680s are prime examples factory single pipe ultras around 105 horses while the factory triple pipe ultras were around 150 horse same engine same carbs same timing both port and ignition and same reeds but completely different beasts only difference is pipes they set your horsepower on 2 strokes change your pipe temps and pipe signals you change your horsepower change reeds change your time through rpms but power remains the same.

"the air is not compressed in the bottom end of a 2 stroke unless you are running a turbo or some other type of compressor" I have a hard time reading your story because the sentenced are very long and over running. But have you ever heard of "primary compression?" It is the compression on every down stroke of a 2-stroke engine in the cases. It is what drives the fuel/air up the transfers and into the cylinder when the transfer ports open on the down stroke. Yes, the pipe vacuum helps evacuate the cylinder of ex. gas, and then supercharges the cylinder before the piston closes off the ex. port on the up stroke, but there is definitely pressure differences in the crank case that have a direct effect on fuel entering the cylinder. The thinner and more reed tip area of the v-vorce reed do open earlier, and start filling the cases earlier at lower rpm's, and they do fill the cylinder better for more power at those rpm's. If you want to test if crankcase volume makes a difference, a dyno will read it. Add a 5mm spacer between the reed block the the cylinder, effectively increasing crank case volume, and watch the power get more mellow. Bottom line that I know and experienced, (I do build 2-stroke engines for a living, but of course don't know it all), the V-force reeds are a good component if you want to increase the lower rpm power. But they should compare to higher rpm's with stock single reeds as the double petal lift is half the distance, (reducing flutter). I am going to use them on a YZ250. Part of my engine mods to make it a low-mid-range tiller. :) I am matching those reeds to a lower rpm tuned off road pipe (FMF Gnarly), and I even lowered the cylinder one gasket thickness to lower the port rpm target. Good squish still (.050"), and running 100 octane now, but I expect it to be transformed from a high rpm power curve to a low and mid-range short shift rocket.

And I would love to see how a turbo, (or any forced intake) hooks up to a 2-stroke. it would have to be extra pressure from above the exhaust port that started pressurizing the cylinder after the ex. port is close on the up stroke. Any pressurizing of the normal intake tract, may clean out the exhaust gasses in the cylinder better than just scavenging, but the PSI is going to just blow out of the exhaust port which is still open when the transfers close on the up-stroke.

I do agree with your biggest point though. I think it has been a long time (decades) that aftermarket reed actually increased peak hp, unless there is a design flaw in the stock design, like the stock reed petal stop plate blocking off 50% of my YZ250 cylinder reed transfer port tunnel, and not filling the back of the cylinder as well as it should.

It was a perfect day! And yes that 800 etec engine was easily the best running 800 of all time, plus smoother and more fuel efficient than the 850 etec with basically the same power. It has a heavy feel compared to the 850 though.

And yet it worked perfectly. Feel free to give your recommendation for the socket to use.

Washington State Cascades South of I-90.