Either is fine choice, but I would have to say I think I like the Alien 2 better. Stainless steel still looks good after 13 years. My Alien3 got really rusty within the first year.

It's holding up quite well. That one chain drop I mentioned is still the only malfunction I've had. This is definitely the easiest, cheapest option for a 10-speed mullet, and I recommend it wholeheartedly.

Alright, I know it’s a crime against humanity (and the bike gods) but I’ll try to pair this with my Dura Ace 7900 10-speed shifters and come back to post the results. 🙏

Hi ​​⁠@@chazwarpdrive5171! Update here: I did carry out this exact conversion successfully (same “SR” 11-51t cassette off of ebay and M9) , and the cable pull & big cog clearances indeed do work for me as well! Thank you! That said, two issues that I’m having are: (1) the shifting is quite hesitant on the smaller cogs, and if I play with the barrel adjuster to get those to work most of the time, I lose access to the big cog altogether. (Taking the limit screws off fully didn’t help either. Neither did trying different shift cable tensions or playing with the b-screw). (2) Especially in the smallest 5 cogs, I need to shift up twice to be able to go up one cog. (And I do click down one after I see the shift, just so at least the shifter indexing matches the actual gearing in the back.) Any chance you might have any suggestions for either issue? I’m happy to try and come back to post the results. Thank you in advance!

@@bugrakaytanli, I can't say that I had the same issues, and it's hard to troubleshoot without seeing it, but all my other experiments taught me a couple tricks to get the best results, and maybe it could help you. First is setting the screws. For the B-screw, I like to have it backed out as far as it can go, but still safely clear the biggest cog. Next, for the high limit screw, make sure you have no tension on the cable and the chain in the smallest cog. Turn in the High limit screw until the chain starts rubbing on the next cog, and then back it off a quarter turn. Then I set the cable tension so that 1 click = 1 shift. I would maybe also check on your chain length. Is it too long? If you are in the largest cog and could still remove a link or 2 without stressing the derailleur too much, or running out of chain, that might help take up some sloppiness of shifting in the smaller cogs.

@@chazwarpdrive5171thanks for the tips. I tried all of them one by one and the shifting did improve a little but the main issue of lazy shifting at high gears wasn’t fixed fully. It was rideable, but not crisp. That said I am sort of convinced that a more skilled mechanic can get this to work. Pull ratio and travel are there afterall. Since then I ordered a Microshift Sword shifter, rd and 11-48t 10-speed AdventX cassette. And as you also mention in your videos, it being a groupset that is made to work together, it worked out of the box with very minimal adjustments needed. I still used your tips though 😊 thank you!❤ (a note, Sword rd did NOT take the 11-51t Sunrace cassette.) I would like to thank you for the encouragement to start working on this conversion. If it weren’t for you, I probably would still be watching videos online, wondering whether I can get it to work, ever. Thanks very much! 🎉

Thanks. Check out parts 2 and 3 for even more mullet experiments!

@@chazwarpdrive5171 just did and left you a question under part 3. Phenomenal work!

Do you mean the pulley thing where the cable enters the derailleur? That is the Wolf Tooth Tanpan. It converts the cable pull for the road shifters to work with the mountain derailleur. Wolf Tooth sells a couple different kinds of Tanpan. If you have 10-speed 105 shifters, then get the 10-speed Tanpan.

thanks. I just shot a follow-up video that I still have to edit that will be a little update to this one plus a new experiment.

With a Road Link, it should definitely work. Without one, I would have to say maybe. I have seen it work on other setups, but it was just a little too close on mine to recommend without some kind of hanger extender. I found most of the cassettes on ebay. The 11-40 that I used is a SunRace CSMS3. I got it for about $35 in 2020. These days they seem to be closer to $50.

@@chazwarpdrive5171 I seee. Did a quick search on Amazon wow the cms3 70$ now. And also where did you see that the m592 can't be used with road links? I can't seem to find any information about it online.

@@kint3300 I thought I had read it on WolfTooth's site. They don't recommend the Shadow style derailleurs (like the m592) with the road link, which is why they have the GoatLink and RoadLink DM for use with those derailleurs. I don't know where exactly. Analog Cycles' description of the RoadLink says it doesn't play too well with Shadow derailleurs. I suppose I don't know for sure that it doesn't work, but I have only ever seen them used on the older non-Shadow derailleurs. I am planning a follow up to this video with a couple new experiments, and I will give the m592 a try with the RoadLink and see what happens.

What's the way to go for 1xby with 4700 Tiagra 10 spd levers and Tiagra 10 spd rear derailleur on a road bike?If someone can help i will appreciate.😊

It's a Bianchi Project-5. I believe the Ocelot took 26" tires. The Project-5 came with 700x45c stock.

Thanks! I have some more ideas to do a follow-up/part 2, but I would first need to acquire some more components.

Also, despite almost never being used, somehow the Alien 3 has gotten pretty rusty from just staying in my saddle bag in its own little case after only a few months.

@@chazwarpdrive5171 that’s no good I’ll definitely get the alien 2 👍🏻 seems like it has all the same tools and more and lasts a long time

The GoatLink is made by Wolf Tooth Components. They make a 10 speed one and an 11 speed one. You can get it at wolftoothcomponents.com