At the time of design, apparently the soil had excess moisture and the engineer was worried about constructability and timeliness without major undercuts and import of crushed stone. The unmixed strip along the asphalt is the width of the housing outside the edge of the mixing drum plus enough space that you're not damaging the sidewalls of two $7000+ tires on that machine by rubbing them along the edge of the asphalt (which itself lay on unmodified subgrade with a gravel subbase.) As I mentioned in the beginning of the video, the soils tech had tested the grade already at 100% compaction without the lime and it had been proofrolled prior to lime with a loaded tri-axle to the satisfaction of the geotechnical inspector. The engineer decided since the lime was in the contract, that they didn't want to remove it. Empirically speaking, the treatment was unwarranted, but we were directed to install it nonetheless. The specs were clearly written and there was continuous ongoing inspection by the design engineer firms representative and the independent geotechnical consultant.

@@manofinterests334 I understand what you are saying, but calcium oxide that hasnt reacted yet still runs the risk of reacting once it is covered up with the parking surface, causing damage to "finished" surface. I enjoy a nice open discord like this also.

@@pennworld Assuming you're concerned about shrink or swell of soils heaving or settling the surface product, here's some dry reading to alleviate your worries: www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2215016120301485 From a practical standpoint though, my understanding is LKD is used directly in some asphalt mixes so from a product damage point of view it's not a contaminant. Next item of consideration is that around this area, asphalt is always installed over crushed limestone... which would be the next direct course installed on top of the lime dust, so hydration wouldn't affect that product. And in terms of hydration, the LKD was watered down thoroughly before mixing so the product that didn't get mixed would have mostly hydrated prior to installation of the stone subbase eliminating any worries that minimal shrink or swell that might affect the surface. The main thing you have to worry about (that we know of right now) with the unmixed LKD is getting it in your eyes, on sweaty skin or breathing it in... and that - is no bueno.

There's probably no real "wrong way" to do it, but if I were in your situation and I wanted to plant a garden in the spring, as soon as possible now (it's currently sept. 10th) I'd mow the area you want to plant - as low as your mower will cut, add cardboard over that and if you have compost, spread it evenly over the cardboard and then add as much leaves, grass clippings, manured or plain straw or hay etc as you can get your hands on and let it sit over the winter and settle and start breaking down. (Another alternative is to mow the area and then use heavy black visqueen or a tarp and weight down the perimeter, poke some tiny holes here and there to let water through, and in the spring, cut small (1-1/2") holes or "x's" in the visqueen or tarp and plant right through them with seeds or transplants. The visqueen(plastic sheeting) will probably last a couple or three years, if you're careful how you walk on it. I've had great success with both methods. As with many good things, the sooner you start, the better.

We were stabilizing clay fill dirt. It didn't need the extra treatment as it compacted to pretty well 100% before we added the cement. The process will harden up all manner of soils and help dry overly wet soils in the case of lime treatment.

Nah. Closer to lime poisoning... maybe silicosis? Cancer isn't going to get you today. At least not from this stuff...

I'd say the reason they do the initial ripping in is to get slots for the lime or cement and water to penetrate the soil profile and start to mix with the water instead of having wet puddles of cement standing on the surface. We have enough sand content locally in the soil that the county won't accept lime stabilization as a credit to replace part of the crushed stone subbase section, but 10-14" of subgrade mixed with cement at 4-5% will generally earn an allowance of removing 6 of the 12" of stone - pursuant to a geotechnical review and pavement section design.

Thanks for watching! Yes, that can be done I'm sure, although none of the lime contractors in this area do it (that I have witnessed, anyway). I have actually seen it done on asphalt in-situ remediations where the emulsion truck is connected by hose and asphalt emulsion is injected into the cutting drum chamber to achieve what you're talking about. And also, yes, the length of this particular project was short enough that there wasn't room for any sort of train situation as you can probably tell by the machines weaving back and forth around each other.

We only hooked up water trucks to the mixers on jobs where we had room AIRPORT AND ROADWAYS but, only where the haul distance from water supply was not too great.

Hah. It's drywall mud, not poledancing. But thanks for watching.

I don't agree Blight - blight is large areas of chocolate coloured dead leaf. This looks like manganese deficiency. Use a foliage spray of Epsom salts.

I was headed back out there March 17th... got all the way to Fort Riley KS and had to turn around and come back to Indiana because I was notified that Moab was shutting down to non-residents at 10 pm. Otherwise I'd be there riding right now.

Sorry I just now saw this comment. Yes, portland cement will remedy sandy soils. You can probably get by with a 10% mix roughly. For something that doesn't need engineered or tested, wet or dry mixing and letting rain add additional moisture should be a workable plan.

I was concerned about that as well, so I stood watch near him the entire time he was doing his work.

He was doing a compaction test

Dillon Moreland yes I know. Slang for ASTM 6938.

@@ybd3179 hydrated lime can burn your skin and would definitely not be good to get it in your eyes. This was cement powder, so you also have the phosphates and other nasties to worry about. Best to wear protective clothing and a mask if the dust is blowing around you.

I love making this drive... I look at Denver as the last gateway to navigate before happy place. Oh, yeah, no worries... I totally understand - I've helped pitch enough wood and Pulaski blowouts to appreciate the enormous amount of work it takes to physically keep the trails passable - without even bringing the .gov morass into the picture. I think maybe we met at the '17 TVTMA ride last July. I was camped with SR, BK and SF at the last campsite before the creek crossing. I'm hoping to make another expedition this coming summer...? Trying to work up the courage to go to the 'burg as part of it. 8-| (I have to get in better shape before that ha.)

@@manofinterests334 That makes sense, I remember meeting you! Those are a good group of guys too, love riding with them. Were you up when I was taking pictures of the stars that night? Think I caught some of the Northern lights! Toward the end of the gallery if you want to see them- www.mkmpics.com/Moto/Travel-1/2017-07-23-Idaho-State-Ride

@@Mkmcreate Wow! Yeah, I stayed up late that night by the fire and wandered out in the gravel when you were setting up for the sky photos. They turned out nice!

Hey! I didn't see this comment for some reason. The bales remained too hot inside and once the squash roots got 4-6" deep, they all got fried. I'm givin'er another run this summer and intend to document it on videos.

I may have the opposite problem. If I plant okra, or tomatoes in cages, I'll need a ladder to pick. I think the squash and other vine crops will love to sprawl over the edges and cascade - which may have the added benefit of shading the bale sides and slowing evaporative loss. Also, tomatoes will stay cleaner if they're hanging over the edges - and yes, they'll be up off the ground without having to mess with trellising or cages. A bonus I hadn't considered until just now!

mapichon locochon you don’t know what you’re talking about, on second coat you still see the tape. I do this for a living so stop hating he did well