Thanks for the information!!!

What if it is happening on a longer gun like AK 47, because my AIM on pistols is fine

Good to know...👍. Now can you explain why Henry 22s jam up when you go slow with the lever...

This is NOT how you do a scientific drop test. Your test isn't repetable because you have no test fixture. Your true height of drop varies from drop to drop. You are not controlling the orientation of the gun during impact, so if that is important in the result you can't repeat that either. You are not dropping it on a solid surface, but rather on a plate on bare ground. You need to build a fixture that holds the gun in a particular orientation as it drops, and which allows you to accurately repeat the height of drop. You need to drop it on a concrete floor. Hilton Yam did exactly this more than a decade ago when drop testing Series 70 1911s. While this is entertaining, it is of limited actual value.

My Henry Lever 17 hmr new out of box does not feed or extract. Should have bought the Savage bolt.

Are all aftermarket and oem flat triggers the same or is there a difference in performance between them. For example i found an oem cz flat trigger and an eemann tech flat trigger and i wonder of they are the same or if there is a difference when setting the prettavel overtravel screws

Aside from dropping on an actual hard/concrete surface with no padding, the way a Shadow 2 or Shadow 1 will discharge when dropped is if the hammer is lowered on a chambered round...a la the starting condition for Production Class in USPSA, and sadly how a round went off and killed a safety officer in one instance. Not by dropping on the muzzle, although one would think it would since like Series 70 1911's there is no firing pin block/safety. But the firing pin rear plunger is depressed a bit when the hammer is lowered, and in some instances (like when an extended firing pin is installed in a competition gun) can even be resting on the round's primer itself. So it wouldn't take much of an impact on the hammer to set that primer off, especially if it's a softer one. This could have been addressed by allowing the gun to start with the hammer in the partial-cock notch, such as with the SP-01 Tactical models with a decocker, but USPSA refused to change the rules to allow that (AFAIK at the time of this post). Starting the stage with the hammer cocked & locked also avoids this, but it takes the gun out of production class and affects scoring.

It's between this or a Beretta APX A1... decisions decisions.

Some good tips, how do you improve your reaction time to the beep to start your draw? This is where I’m losing some valuable time. Thanks

Nice

Just bought one last month and took it to the range. It reliably shot hollow points and different bullet weights. Great video.

I found some of the screws loose right out of the box. I've learned to check all of the screws often after shooting. I hesitate to use a thread locker since I usually take her apart after use. One of the things that disappointed me was the sharp edges on the receiver where the barrel and mag tube thread in. A few other pieces like the hammer and the opening in the mag tube also have sharp edges. I don't think that the buttstock wood is mated to the receiver very well and my handguard needed a thin wood veneer shim to take up a slight movement where it meets the receiver. Now so I don't sound too whiny about this I have several Henry Big Boys and all but one are damn near perfect. I do have to tighten the screws though. I think that Henry is so swamped with demand that they are starting to overlook some of the quality control that used to be what they were known for. Henry Company if you read these comments pay attention. I recently purchased a Miroku Winchester model 92 that is made in Japan. The fit and finish are perfection and the craftsmanship that is so very obvious on this rifle is better than anything I've seen in a long time. I'm old so that is a long time. I love the fact that Henry is made in the U.S. of A. but I'd be willing to pay a little more for perfection and not something that seems to lack concerns for quality.

Good advice!

Good way to explain it.

Good video. Thanks for the advice

My primary carry is either my P30 or P30L. I have the SK for when I need to have better concealment. All three are V1 and were worked over by Langdon Tactical and I added the shirt lever for the right side on all three, as I’m a lefty. Fantastic pistols.

I love my P30.

H&K P30L LEM V1 is the best Carry Gun for me.

What crazy to me is all the people running 1911/2011 pistols that have series 70 internationals and have pinned the grip safety but never complain. People this is basically the same concept but in a more modern pistol.

Easier than the trijicon where you have to take the whole thing off just to change the battery.

Living the cz life 😎

I have never heard of CZ Shadow 2 or CZ Shadow compacts fire when dropped in real life. How many people use these guns and use them?

The 1911 style pistol is made to be carried cocked and locked without a firing block

Once you wear glasses, iron sights don't work for you

Cz p0c is a glock killer

You should clean your guns more often

HK P2000 V1 or V2 LEM 9mm Is a better choice.

Sounds like a rule to prevent 2011's from dominating by excluding them.

Cocked and locked is condition1.

Put the cloth down the barrel at least come on now

I did the same thing and i couldn't get over the diffrence no hand ups slight crisp pull fires and right back to reset i hardly needed the stop screws they give you.

Lets hope the old "no steel case on indoor ranges" guys also get the memo that those new magtechs have completely non magnetic projectiles.

kzbin.info/www/bejne/mqCvkKGLnc2LfNksi=DJbWaZoH8kVVNCpp This is the issue. I’m having around the four minute mark Great video

Thank you for doing this so we don't have to do it to ours lol. I think the underlying issue with this is not the lack of a firing pin block as much as it is people installing extended firing pins.

Converted mine to sao also. I used czc competition hammer, hammer strut, pin and flat trigger keeping my original parts intact. Very happy with the results and went together with no problems.

Uspsa logic : can’t use a cocked and locked hammer gun with 2lb trigger in CO/prod Also uspsa logic: sure you can use a fully cocked striker gun with NO safety and 2lb trigger in CO/prod. Because you can’t see the striker fully cocked like a hammer makes it magically safe Oh and another: uspsa: we obey all fundamental gun safety rules Also uspsa: you MUST pull the trigger when you don’t intend to shoot (to fully lower the hammer on an extended firing pin). By the way a hammer down shadow 2 with extended firing pin killed a RSO in New York a few years back when it was dropped by a competitor holstering after make ready . The obvious solution is as you say to require you to use the safety if the pistol has one or the decocker if the pistol has one. This would be JUST LIKE the holster retention device rule (if it has one you must use it). Also combined with a “you cannot remove any safety device off a gun as it comes from the factory (so no removing firing pin blocks or grip safeties) You can then either combine CO and LO or make CO 15rds just like production is now so it is essentially production optics and gives real space between CO and LO.

Mine did the same thing today. Thanks for posting this.

A friend of mine damn near lost his fingers from this crap! He had a squib that he thought cleared the barrel and blew up the barrel.

Wolf ran fine in my guns thousands of rounds

Ok I definitely think he bought that cause I've seen those online with the lanyard and all nice try he could just go on the Internet and buy one for 10 bucks😊

Wow Good to know, Thank You for sharing. I have several Henry's.

The Canik type writer!

Yeah open Division for Shadow 2 SAO is not smart at all . I converted my S2 Optocs Ready to SAO so i could switch to Limited Optics . I installed CGW SAO Conversion Kit , Lok Veloce Palm Swell Target Grips , and Recoil Spring Kit . I do not feel im at disadvantage going up against 2011s in LO division . I went with S2 SAO because it was cheaper to build out to my specs vs buying 2011 and then tricking out . S2 O.R. with all the mods i wanted was well under 1.6K , including the pistol itself . Mine was 2.1# trigger pull with almost 0 take up and very short reset . Its definitely not 2011 / 1911 reset but pretty close

Personally I think the most unsafe shooter at the range is somebody who calls themselves an instructor and considers himself an expert but is actually not.

Hahahahahhaaha it's Juan Wick!!! 🤦 Bro you got to go on a diet if you want to call yourself an instructor of anything physical.

Hahahahahhaaha it's Juan Wick!!! 🤦

Hahahahahhaaha it's Juan Wick!!! 🤦

So me and the guys at the forums put in a pole and like 300 people voted when we were tearing you apart making fun of you sir. We have decided you should rename your channel... "JUAN WICK." 🤣🤣🤣

😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂