Some VCRs won't operate if the cover is off, since stray light can interfere with the tape-drive's optical sensors. In this case, if you still want to leave the cover off to see the VCR's operation, using dimmer room-lighting can often eliminate this issue; it depends on how "touchy" the machine's sensors are. :D

Two tips on winding the tape from one hub to the other: some small screwdrivers have the correct size/configuration of handle to fit snugly into the reel's splined drive-hole, allowing you to rapidly spin the reel by simply twirling the screwdriver's shank in your fingers; also, if you lay the reels face-down (i.e., with the clear-plastic side down) on a hard smooth surface, the small plastic bearing-nubs on the upper sides (i.e., the side with the clear-plastic face-plate) of the reels will let the reels "balance" on them like a spinning top-toy, and so you can gently spin the reels on them for quick transferring of the tape between the two reels. :D

7:31 "Pro-tip" from one long-term VHS-tape nerd/geek to another, lol --- often there will be a tiny hole in the tape-reel's colored-plastic "base" (i.e., not the clear-plastic face-plate) that's located underneath the tape-end retaining-clip; you can use the end of a paper clip or other small-diameter object to insert into this hole from the bottom (i.e, next to the big splined drive-hole) and push out the clip, without having to potentially damage the reel by working a flat-bladed screwdriver underneath the clip. Bonus tip for the leader-reattachment step at 7:50: using a stiff flat object that's several inches long --- like a narrow strip of wood or the handle of a toothbrush --- and held between your hands with the middle portion inserted down in between the tape-reel's discs and pressed against the hub can make the task of snapping the tape-end retainer-clip back into place easier than trying to use your finger in between the two discs of the tape-reel. Also, sometimes the reel's clear-plastic face-plate will have a bayonet-style (i.e., like on an older-style automotive bulb for a tail light or turn-signal) fastener that holds the two halves of the reel together (rather than just several "welded" plastic pin-heads that permanently fasten the two halves together), and so you can just twist the clear cover-disc gently counter-clockwise to remove the disc; this makes it easier to access the tape and the retaining-clip, and makes putting the retaining-clip back on much simpler. :D

Thank you. I have old equipment, tapedeck doeas not have USB , itis about 35 years old.

Those lines looked familiar to me. It's some sort of moire effect. Usually caused by an interference between a pattern on an original and the scanner (underscanning). Could you overscan the film and then down sample for the clients' copy?

Thank you for sharing awesome 👍🏽 thanks again

Hello i got a goko-dual-8-model-L120-movie-editor from grandpa and im trying to learn how to operate it. Im gonna change that 1966 10 w lamp to. Trying to find a manual but i cant find anyone.. is the a-203 almost the same?

Another KZbinr named Our Own Devices just released a video about the Polaroid Polavision a few days or so before yours was released.

4:32 Why should we not rewind or fast-forward again?

I agree with you it looks better zoomed with the Kodak reels

Would this help to reduce a hissing sound from vhs tapes ?

I randomly came across this channel I have this repairman character who fixes VHS tapes and CDs and stuff and kind of watching this because I'm curious and reference

Thanks

Thanks for your help. My camera would not play back. I got 2 q-tips and taped them together. I then wrapped the tips with a Carl Zeiss lens wipe. Playback looks digital now. Wow!!

Three points there are four plastic tabs in the gate, not two, and it's important that the film is threaded beneath all four before you close the top part, otherwise it won't lie flat and the result will be out of focus. Ir's kind of fiddly to do it right but with practice you can get it by feel. Also, if you're switching between standard and super 8 films, you have to reset the Frame Adjustment so the entire frame is captured since the different formats have different size frames. Finally, you should always clean the light source (the white rectangle in the gate) either with the brush they provide or with a shot of canned air. That's because bits of dirt tend to fall off the film and accumulate, and can show up as dark blobs on the picture.

I have one that has been in stage for years. I cleaned it like you showed and it did a little better but still wint play. It starts to then stops. What els can i do to fux it?

Very helpful video even in 2024. Clear and easy to understand.

Hi, quick question for you - rather than using pec pads and the pubbing alcohol - can I just use antibacterial wet wipes?

I would be very uncomfortable using a screwdriver on plastic gear like that. Wouldn't that increase the likelihood of breaking the plastic gear teeth?

If you have a roll of film, how do you scan it without exposure?

The Kodak version looks incredible "noisy," even noisier than the Wolverine. That's a surprise to me.

I was very disappointed that you did not show any of your results, the actual digitized files, in this tutorial. Therefore, I have no idea whether this product is worthwhile.

Great video. Thank you.

Wolverine products are "famous" for crushing the blacks. l don't like that! 😮

Thank you! Very clear instructions.

Can i use metholated spirit?

Thanks... I never had much faith in cleaning tapes.. wet or dry.

I don’t trust autoeat -I mean autoload projectors. (Except the Kodak Moviedeck 285 the only autoload worth a damn. only one time it jammed on me so far…)but manual loads are still king!

Kinda funny that the TRV140's wrist strap was replaced with one from a Video8 or early Hi8.

,donde la consigo o comprar Dirección del sitio Me interesa muy práctico Tengo muchos negativos

I am a 25 year-old woman who has never used the camcorder nor cassette tapes in her entire life. Except for VHS tapes when I was a kid. and I’ve been tasked with the responsibility of splicing the magnetic tape and I just want to thank you so much for this.!!!!!!!!!

My takeaway from this is not that a person shouldn't use one, but a person should do research and understand how to use them, how to service them, and what could go wrong if that person wishes to project movies. I personally love to do just that. That old school, non-digital, means of capturing and presenting movies and photos is just cool to me. I have a collection of 16mm movies that I like to thread up occasionally. I also shoot a lot of Super 8 and 16mm myself and either use reversal or have a print made. That being said, I still believe it is best to have digital backups of precious family movies.

PLUGGING IN THE CAMERA IS THE TRICKY PART. If the majority of PLAYERS are broke , because these Cameras had A lot moving parts. YOU CAN'T TRANSFER ANYTHING , IF 95% OF CAMERAS ARE NO MORE.

Looking to do something like this but the other way around. Digital to micro cassette.

I don't know what you mean when you say 600 spi (samples per inch) is "archival." For 35mm slides, this gives you an image that can be printed at 72mm x 48mm at 300 ppi. That's a very small print! In my opinion, a good archival scan should be done at 2400 spi. (PS: I don't use the term dpi because it doesn't apply to this media.)

That's a pretty nice $3000.00 device. Makes sense for commercial applications.

I didn't like seeing all that freon being sprayed all over the slides from the canned air! 😮

yeah between casettee conver and computer , if we put audio interface there make difference audio quality ?

gracias

You also forgot to mention that replacement bulbs for these projectors are quite expensive. One solution for people who are fans of film projecting (and there are some. There are people who still like to shoot super 8 film and project it. Ektachrome 100 D for colour and black and white reversal is still available for that as well as negative stocks) is to have the lamp replaced with an LED fixture. It won't burn your film or your skin and it will last virtually forever.

my spring came loose--how do i get it back to work?

Gracias por el tutorial, acabo de comprar un escaner igual. Saludos,

Great Video!!!! Thank you so much. Helped me a lot to fix my old recordings!

I think mine have a worn out bulb on my projector. do you by any chance know how to change the bulb and what kind of bulb does it use for this model. if so hope you'd make a video of it.

If I don't have the camera of if the camcorder's tape player broken?

I zoom out. But doing that makes for a better finish when I use Film9 stabilisation prior to final editing and then crop. However if the jitter is caused by the scanner and not the film, and the Kodak doesn't cause the film to jitter, then perhaps zooming in is better. But if caused by the film, then zooming out would be the preferred option.

I have a Winait Film Scanner which is the same as the Wolverine. Although it only takes up to 5" reels of films, I use an old projector to feed the film through the Winait, and then let the film drop into a plastic box. I don't use the Winait to rewind the film back to the reel. Just a pencil in the reel hole and rotate the reel. I use an external monitor when scanning. I also maintain the focus (W) at 0, and crop when editing. After scanning has completed I transfer to the PC, then use software called Film9 to remove some of the artifacts on the scanned Film but also to stabilise it. Having the Focus (W) at 0 allows the stabilisation to work without interfering with the content of the film. ie Any movement caused during the stabilisation won't affect the film when I crop it during editing. I had considered the Kodak Reels due to the higher resolution, but don't think it's worth spending £400 when I already use the Winait with barely any difference between the two. Most of my KZbin content is nostalgia ie Digitised Cine Films. But I have subscribed to yours.

Do you use rca cable for audio transfer in this video?

How can you connect an S-video input into this? it's supposed to be better than composite.

Is it possible to transfer connecting only through a headphone output (mini jack cables)? I have an oooold walkman