@@КристијанТодоровски okay great.. Fix it as soon as possible otherwise it may cause to the failure of your engine

@@PeterHernandez-lg2eh it is recommended to also inspect your spark plugs, ignition coils, fuel injectors and engine sensors. If you are not competent enough to find issue, it is recommended to contact mechanic

@@1mach28914u1 No it's radiator

@@1mach28914u1 air filter hose plays a vital role to ensure the proper circulation of engine coolant

@@mikegiffin8617 Yes, a bad PCV valve or charcoal canister can contribute to a P0442 code. The P0442 code indicates a small leak in the vehicle's EVAP system.

@@abramcortes-meza5134 Thanks for watching and appreciating

@@NisarUddin-qc3bk If oil is coming through the PCV valve into the intake manifold and you’re noticing a drop in engine oil levels, there could be a few possible issues to consider: 1) Worn Piston Rings: Worn or damaged piston rings can cause excess blow-by gases to enter the crankcase. This can increase crankcase pressure, pushing more oil through the PCV system and into the intake manifold. This is a common cause of oil loss and blow-by issues. 2) PCV Valve Malfunction: A stuck or faulty PCV valve may cause excess oil vapor to be sucked into the intake manifold. The PCV valve regulates the flow of gases between the crankcase and intake manifold, and if it's clogged or faulty, it may not properly separate oil from the blow-by gases, leading to oil entering the intake manifold. 3) Engine Wear: Over time, engine components such as valve seals and piston rings wear out, leading to oil leakage into the combustion chamber and potentially into the intake via the PCV system. This can lead to excessive oil consumption. 4) High Crankcase Pressure: Ifthere’s excessive pressure in the crankcase, possibly due to clogged oil passages, it can force oil through the PCV system into the intake manifold. This is typically caused by engine wear or restricted ventilation. 5) Clogged Oil Separator or Breather: If the oil separator or breather that is supposed to filter oil from the gases before they enter the intake manifold is clogged or not functioning properly, oil can enter the PCV valve and be sucked into the intake. What You Can Do: Check and Replace PCV Valve: Start by inspecting or replacing the PCV valve if it is clogged or faulty. Compression Test: Conduct a compression or leak-down test to check the condition of the piston rings. Low compression might indicate worn piston rings. Check for Oil Leaks: Inspect for any other leaks around the engine that might contribute to oil loss. Valve Seals: Check the valve seals

@@MechanicalBoost thank you very much sir🥰

ok then you should properly all the parts that are discussed in the video and fix the issues

He sell it

You should contact a professional mechanic for deep inspection or do it yourself. Your car may trigger check engine light due to different reasons such as a bad spark plug, bad ignition coils, bad fuel injectors, engine misfire, and many more. Therefore, you need to properly diagnose the issue.

@@MechanicalBoost l took to the mechanic and checked the error code was still p0420... Catalytic converter below threshold on bank 1... Something like that I bought anew catalytic converter and still showed same problem. Am confused cause the more l visit the repair shop the more money I spend and no change.

@@sulaamisi You should also check your oxygen sensors because they may also affect the performance of your catalytic converter and trigger the P0420 code. Also check your system for Exhaust Leaks and test the ECM. Sometimes a bad ECM may also inacuurately trigger this trouble code. Problems with fuel injectors, fuel pressure, or a malfunctioning fuel mixture sensor can cause an imbalance in the air-fuel ratio, which can affect the performance of the catalytic converter.

@@MechanicalBoost alright thanks for the advice. I try them out

It sounds like you're dealing with a persistent issue despite replacing the PCV valves. There are a few possibilities for why the noise might keep coming back, even after replacing the parts. Here are some potential causes to consider: 1) Aftermarket Parts Quality: As your mechanic team mentioned, the aftermarket PCV valves might not be performing at the same level as original parts. Some aftermarket components don’t always match OEM (original equipment manufacturer) standards and can cause issues like improper sealing or incorrect pressure regulation. 2) Incorrect Installation: Even though the parts are new, if the PCV valve wasn't installed correctly, it might not be functioning as intended. Small leaks, loose connections, or improper fitment could cause the system to malfunction again. 3) Crankcase Pressure Build-Up: If there is excessive pressure building in the crankcase, even a new PCV valve might not be able to relieve it properly. This could be due to blockages or restrictions elsewhere in the system (like hoses or the oil separator), which could cause abnormal sounds and symptoms. 4) Engine Vacuum Issues: The PCV valve works by using engine vacuum to regulate pressure in the crankcase. If there’s a vacuum leak elsewhere in the system, it could affect how the PCV valve functions, leading to recurring noises. 5) Oil Contamination: If the oil has become contaminated with debris or sludge, it can clog up the PCV system, even after installing a new valve. This could prevent the valve from operating properly and lead to abnormal sounds. If the mechanic suspects the aftermarket PCV valve is the problem, replacing it with an OEM part could help. In the meantime, you might also want to have them inspect the entire PCV system and the engine’s vacuum system to ensure there are no other contributing factors.

The sound today almost vanished and i only hear it for literally the moment i turn off the engine just one quick whinning . If it didn’t made this sound not even when i turn off the engine i would say it was really gone. But i prefer this than doing it continiously. At least the whole driving is actually quiet now

Yes, it could be related to a malfunctioning PCV valve, but it may not be the sole cause. When the engine stalls after removing the oil cap or dipstick, it indicates an imbalance in the vacuum system, which could be linked to various components, including the PCV valve. I recommend inspecting the PCV valve first and checking for vacuum leaks in the system. If you're unsure, getting a mechanic to run a diagnostic would help pinpoint the exact cause.

No, usually it can't destroy your engine but it may badly affect your car's emissions

@@MechanicalBoost I'm driving a car with a bad cat , if I change it will it be ok or have I damaged the engine now that it will fail in emissions?

@@timothyorourke7116Driving with a bad catalytic converter (cat) can cause some issues, but it depends on how long you’ve been driving with it and the overall condition of the car. 1) Emissions: A faulty catalytic converter won’t process exhaust gases efficiently, so your car is more likely to fail an emissions test. 2) Engine Damage: If the catalytic converter is clogged or restricted, it can cause a buildup of backpressure in the exhaust system, which might lead to overheating or other engine performance issues. Long-term driving with excessive backpressure could harm the engine.

Thanks for your appreciation

Thanks for liking

If you have any issue, kindly comment in english only so that everyone here can understand easily.

If this is the case, you should definitly replace your sensor but before replacing your sensor, it is recommended to perform a deep inspection to find the main issue. If you are not competent, you should contact a professional

The code P2122 is a generic powertrain diagnostic trouble code typically associated with an issue in the throttle/pedal position sensor/switch "D" circuit. This code indicates that your Engine Control Module has detected a malfunction in the signal from the throttle or pedal position sensor.

​@@MechanicalBoost ^^^ 😞 06 cadillac cts replaced pedal too late to calibrate/reset/relearn?

The carbon buildup on pistons 2 and 3 indicates that there might be an uneven burn or improper combustion happening in those cylinders. Knocking occurs when the air-fuel mixture in the cylinder ignites prematurely or unevenly, leading to abnormal combustion. The carbon buildup could exacerbate this issue by creating hot spots that can cause pre-ignition.

@@MechanicalBoost I bought some foam to clean the carbon on the pistons and we'll see if it's any better.

@@MrTomitomi1975 oky try it and then share us your feedback

@@MechanicalBoost thanks

😊btv​@@MrTomitomi1975

A knock sound in your Toyota 2D truck that appears and disappears when the truck is loaded and moving but isn’t present when idling could be caused by several factors: 1) Engine Load Knock: When the engine is under load (like when the truck is carrying a heavy load), it might knock due to pre-ignition or detonation. This happens if the fuel-air mixture ignites prematurely, which can cause a knocking noise. This is often related to issues with fuel quality, timing, or carbon buildup in the combustion chamber. 2) Worn Engine Bearings: When bearings (especially rod bearings) are worn, they may not knock at idle but will under load due to increased pressure and movement in the engine components. 3) Piston Slap: Knock sound may also appear when the pistons move slightly within the cylinder due to wear. It can be more pronounced under load and may not be as noticeable at idle. 4) Loose or Damaged Engine Mounts: If the engine mounts are worn or damaged, the engine could shift slightly under load, causing metal-to-metal contact, which could create a knocking sound. 5) Suspension or Drivetrain Issues: Sometimes, a knock under load can be related to the suspension or drivetrain, such as a worn CV joint, U-joint, or differential problem, rather than the engine itself. 6) Exhaust or Heat Shield Rattle: Sometimes, parts of the exhaust system or a heat shield can rattle under load due to the increased vibration but remain quiet at idle. Since the issue only occurs under load, it suggests that the engine or drivetrain components are being stressed in a way that reveals the problem. It’s best to have the truck inspected by a professional mechanic to pinpoint the exact cause.

Blender software

Thanks for sharing your feedback.. If your PCM/ECM is faulty, you should replace it as soon as possible to prevent severe engine damage.

Yeah there are high chances for the oil and coolant mixing if your mechanic mistakenly interchange oil and coolant pipes. If the oil and coolant pipes are swapped, oil can enter the cooling system and coolant can enter the oil system. This can also cause contamination of both systems.

@@MechanicalBoost , Thank you so much, I faced this situation.

Sir please guide me here too. What is the purpose of turbo in engine? Is it normal that engine oil comes to turbo?

@@orhinangami5313 A turbo compresses the air that enters the engine. This allows more air (and fuel) to be combusted in the cylinders, generating more power than the engine would produce naturally. Yes, it's normal for engine oil to flow to the turbo. The turbo is a high-speed, high-temperature component, and it relies on engine oil for two key reasons: 1) Lubrication: The turbocharger's turbine shaft spins at extremely high speeds, so it needs lubrication to reduce friction between the moving parts, especially the bearings. Engine oil provides this lubrication. 2) Cooling: Turbochargers generate a lot of heat due to the exhaust gases they use to spin the turbine. Oil helps absorb some of this heat and carries it away, assisting in cooling the turbo and preventing overheating. However, oil should stay where it's needed and not leak into other parts of the system.

@@MechanicalBoost , Thanks a lot Sir

The PCM in a car can be located in different places depending on the make and model. The most common location is the engine bay, but in some models, it may be covered and located near the windshield. It is recommended to check your car manual to find the exact location of your PCM.

The P1604 code typically indicates an issue related to the engine control module (ECM) or engine control unit (ECU). If your car is showing this code, you should check your ECM

A bad PCV valve typically wouldn't directly cause a drop in voltage for Bank 1 Sensor 1. However, a malfunctioning PCV valve can lead to conditions that might indirectly affect the oxygen sensor's readings. 1) Air-Fuel Mixture Imbalance: A faulty PCV valve can cause unmetered air to enter the intake manifold, leading to a lean air-fuel mixture. The oxygen sensor might detect this imbalance and show lower voltage readings, as it senses a higher amount of oxygen in the exhaust gases. 2) Engine Performance Issues: If the PCV valve is stuck open or closed, it can cause engine performance issues such as rough idling, misfires, or increased oil consumption. These issues can affect exhaust gas composition, which the oxygen sensor monitors, potentially leading to abnormal sensor readings. If you're seeing a drop in voltage from Bank 1 Sensor 1, it's more likely due to an issue directly related to the sensor, wiring, or the engine's air-fuel mixture rather than the PCV valve itself.

To find the main cause, you mainly have to inspect all the parts explained in the video. If still you are unable to find the main issue, it is best to contact a professional mechanic.

And pray🙏

Yeah properly inspect all the parts and replace or repair the faulty parts. In this way, you may fix your issue.

If it is not MAP sensor, there is a possibility that you have a faulty O2 sensor, fuel injector or any other explained part

@@MechanicalBoost They already change the injector Nd petro pump also Map sensor

@@ZeeMotumi It is best to contact a professional mechanic to find the main issue

If your sensor is not corroded badly, then you can easily clean it within 2 to 5 minutes but cleaning time may vary according to the condition of your sensor.

@@MechanicalBoost Thanks.

@@antonhuman8446 Always welcome

Yeah Absolutely right

Thanks for watching🥰🥰🥰

Yes, a bad PCV valve can cause misfiring. The PCV valve helps regulate the pressure and release gases from the crankcase to be burned in the combustion chamber. A stuck-open PCV valve can allow too much air into the intake manifold, leading to a lean air/fuel mixture. Conversely, a stuck-closed PCV valve can cause a rich air/fuel mixture.

Steps for Diagnosis: 1) Fuel Pressure Test: Attach a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail and check the pressure against the specifications for your Toyota. Check the pressure at idle, during acceleration, and with the A/C on. 2) Inspect the Fuel Pressure Regulator: Check for fuel in the vacuum line and use a vacuum pump to see if it holds vacuum. 3) Check Fuel Pump Operation: Listen for the fuel pump when you turn the key to the "on" position (without starting the car). It should run briefly to pressurize the system. If you don’t hear it or it sounds weak, it might be failing. Possible Next Steps: 1) If Fuel Pressure is Low: Replace the fuel pump. 2) If Fuel Pressure is Normal but Drops Under Load: Replace the fuel pressure regulator. 3) If Both Components Seem Fine: There might be other issues such as clogged fuel injectors or a problem with the fuel filter.

@@MechanicalBoost you’re my hero 👍💪

Yes, bad MAF sensors and throttle body may also have similar symptoms... You need to properly diagnose the issue before replacing any part of your vehicle.

The whistling noise from the purge valve tube and the air passing through the silicone hoses into the intake manifold suggest a possible issue with the purge valve or related components in the EVAP system. Here are some steps to diagnose and potentially resolve the issue: 1) Check the Purge Valve: The purge valve might be stuck open, allowing air to flow continuously. Remove and test the purge valve by applying voltage to it (typically 12V) and checking if it opens and closes properly. If it doesn’t function correctly, replace it. 2) Inspect for Leaks: Ensure there are no leaks in the hoses or connections. Even though you replaced the tubes, there might still be leaks at the connection points. Use a smoke test or spray soapy water on the connections while the engine is running to check for bubbles indicating a leak. 3) Check the EVAP Canister: The EVAP canister could be saturated with fuel vapors, causing the purge valve to operate improperly. Inspect the canister for any signs of damage or saturation and replace it if necessary. 4) Examine the Intake Manifold: Inspect the intake manifold for any signs of damage or leaks. An intake manifold leak can cause unusual air noises and affect engine performance. 5) Verify the Vacuum Lines: Ensure that all vacuum lines connected to the purge valve and intake manifold are correctly installed and not damaged. If after these steps the issue persists, it might be helpful to consult a professional mechanic who can perform a more thorough diagnosis.

Thanks for your reply i will check it.. I supplied the valve and it opened.. i also mesured the purge valve's resistance and it is 35ohm.. when i start the engine it seems closed and i dont feel any air from the valve with my finger, after 5 minutes it starts a popping sound and air starts to pass through the valve.. maybe there is a leak to the connections as you said and create the whistling sound.. sometimes my car doesn't start on the first try and when it starts it feels poorly for the first 3 seconds.. i think maybe it cant keep fuel pressure or vapour when i turn it off and i am about to change the entire fuel pump which contains the fuel pressure regulator and the filter in the tank (there is no outside fuel filter)..

@@konstantinoskiprislis3192 I recommend to contact a professional mechanic before replacing your fuel pump

A knocking sound in your car when it's cold but not at normal temperature can be caused by several factors: 1) Engine Oil: When the engine is cold, the oil is thicker and doesn't lubricate the engine as effectively until it warms up. This can cause knocking sounds. Make sure you're using the correct oil viscosity for your vehicle. 2) Piston Slap: When the engine is cold, the pistons may not fit as tightly in the cylinders, causing a slapping noise. This often goes away as the engine warms up and the metal expands. 3) Worn Engine Components: Components like bearings or lifters can be worn and might not function properly until the oil warms up and provides better lubrication. 4) Fuel Quality: Poor quality or incorrect fuel can cause knocking, especially when the engine is cold. Ensure you're using the recommended octane rating for your car. 5) Carbon Deposits: Carbon build-up in the combustion chamber can cause pre-ignition or knocking, more noticeable when the engine is cold. A fuel system cleaner might help reduce these deposits.

I’ve got the same problem on my Clio I changed throttle body and still the same, now I’m scared to buy the pedal thinking it will be the same 😭😂 anyone help please

The P02200 error code typically indicates a problem with the Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor B Circuit having a low input. This issue can arise from various causes. Here are some steps to diagnose and potentially fix the problem: 1) Examine the the Throttle Position Sensor for any visible damage or wear. And also Clean the Sensor 2) Inspect the Wiring. Use a multimeter to check the continuity of the wires to ensure there are no breaks. 3) With a multimeter, check the voltage output from the TPS. Compare it with the manufacturer's specifications. Also Measure the resistance of the sensor and compare it with the expected values 4) Ensure that the vehicle's battery is providing the correct voltage. 5) Use an OBD-II scanner to check for any other related error codes that might give more context to the issue. 6) After making any repairs or adjustments, use the OBD-II scanner to clear the codes and see if the issue persists. 7) If all else fails and the sensor is determined to be faulty, replace it with a new one that meets the manufacturer's specifications. 8) If the problem persists after trying the above steps, it may be best to consult a professional mechanic for further diagnosis and repair.

The issues with your 2008 Mazda MX-5 blowing the 15A engine fuse and showing a U0100 error code, indicating lost communication with the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), can be challenging to diagnose. 1) A short circuit or ground issue in the wiring harness connected to the PCM can cause the fuse to blow. 2) A malfunctioning PCM can cause intermittent communication issues and might lead to the fuse blowing. 3) A shorted sensor or actuator connected to the PCM 4) Poor ground connections can lead to intermittent communication issues. Ensure all ground connections are secure and free of corrosion. If the problem persists after these steps, it might be necessary to seek professional help from a mechanic or automotive electrician, as they have the tools and experience to diagnose and fix complex electrical issues.