I always thought it would be cool if a lipless crank had a hook only on the top so it would not snag bottm so easy. 2 trebles on the bottom always asks for probs.

I really wanna learn how to do this

what temp are u shooting at?

do u need to de-gas it?

how is it holding up?

Sir, I need your mail, I need to reach you, I will be grateful to you if you write, sir. I need your information

Great video tutorial series, and thank you for it! Please refer me to a online video or online class for learning these software programs to design my own mold model from scratch.

Can I have the STL? Because everywhere else cost me five dollars. And my mama and dad said no

Hello, I just got to know you, I found you in the thinverse. I love your products, do you have an e-mail address, there is something I need to talk about, sir

I went to bait plastic and they only show a sample pack

does it float?

Do you make a squidtrex type mold ?

Hi there, excellent work here! Thanks for sharing. Would you consider making a small bluegill lure that we can use for bass? It could be one-piece with square bill or two pieces as glide bait...

PLEASE DO A 2.5” PLEASE

what size screws did you use to seal it?

Genius!!

The lure separated from the runner too easy for this to be worth it🤷 Nice vid though and thank you for the information

Is the grey prototype mold 3D printed?

throw a heat gun on the side to maintain the temperature of the mold before pouring? Should help.

I’m looking to get into 3d printing pretty much what you are doing! I’m going to buy a resin printer but want to make soft plastics as well as hard plastics. Do you think resin will make most hard bodied bass lures like jerkbaits and crank baits

What material is it?? PLA, ABS??

Nice version bro. Thanks for the shout out too.

The little white lines are from alcohol that didn’t come off and then when you cure it the alcohol leaves white blotches and streaks.

Idk if your still taking recommendations on soft plastic baits but if you are. what about a fluke style jerk bait with the slit cavity on the bottom to hide the hook. Making it less likely to snag.

where is the file

have you tried painting your soft plastics with SB Coat (clear) and mica powder? For freshwater/bass fishing lakes, that sardine design is a very convincing Shad profile. 6th Sense Fishing has an ultra realistic soft plastic shad imitation, called the "Panorama Shad", that is currently very popular and hard to keep in stock right now. Quite honestly, it's a boring flat board-like soft plastic version of your design, but with terrific very realistic paint jobs, IMO. I'm trying to find a permanent way of "decorating" my Bucca Burritos (Lg silicone cast shad patterned swimbaits) with irridesscent mica powders. Using a paint on silicone with mica powder as pigment still ends up being opaque. So far, I've vacuum chambered some of my homemade silicone cast soft lures, in ziplock bags, after micro needling them. It only lasts as long as nothing is making any rough contact with it, but seems to maintain better without washing out after several casts. In comparison, for plastisol baits, the SB coatings are probably more durable, but scratching can appear on them under similar conditions. as far as I can tell, for silicone, after a short day, the mica powder just seems to fade away, faintly being absorbed into the silicone. "Spike-It" paints will hold after letting them dry for several minutes, but seems to eventually get completely absorbed through out the body of the silicone. You could apply it to the dorsal area, but after a couple of days the entire thing turns what was once a milky translucent clear into a faded version of whatever color you had applied. It's actually fun reapplying the patterns when I get them back home, so I enjoy it. But, I find myself wondering how many lures I could have painted by now. That usually turns into wondering how many could I "paint" in a day? (it's like using a paint brush to apply make up to a figurine). I might as well start casting and painting up some high quality baits at this point. Pretty sure the commercial plastisol versions are air brushed or silk screened patterns. Thanks ahead of time, and thanks for the inspiration. Tight lines!

What do you think about PC-7 for bonding?

I can imagine them doing well at Lake Biwa in Japan (or somewhere in Texas/California), for Largemouth. I really have to get going on my SLA.

Genius level skill set. It's like you do all the R+D work, and we get to have all the fun! Thanks bro.

Do the baits float?

Yep same as everyone says they need to be kept cold. If in bags they will melt get flat spots on them even get soft and deformed in sun on a jig hook setting in sun in boat. Fish like them but for personal use keep in box in cooler with no pressure on sides of baits. Worth while but keep them cool and loose in a box.

is there anyway i would be able to get the fusion 360 file?

Hello , I make molds with a 3D printer and cast them with RTV2 molder silicone. It costs me approximately 1 dollar, but its structure is not soft enough, it is very difficult to find the product you use in Turkey, the cost increases a lot when purchased from abroad. Is there a product with similar softness that you would recommend? thank you in advance

Did the plastic ever melt

Hey how do i find link

So that polycarbonate blend plastic wont melt when injecting hot plastisol??

Yes please continue this project. Just found your channel and this is exactly what ive been looking to do, always thought the hooks were way too big for the jig as well. What size hook did you end up designing for? Thank you for the great video

Very cool, now i can make infinite lures lol

For the 3d printable molds will regular PLA work?

This stuff is great for personal use but if you are selling baits they will not survive the shipment, they melt and deform VERY easily WAY more so than ZMan. I put them in packaging and placed them in my mailbox for 2 hours on a 70 degree day and they were toast. I tried everything Bait Plastics suggested, curing in ice baths, rolling in salt, lots of worm oil in packaging etc etc. Basically they told me everyone that uses this stuff uses thermo formed plastic trays shaped like their baits to keep them from deforming, even then they will still melt. As said though, if you use it for personal use and can keep them in a cooler while fishing they will be okay.

This stuff is not worth the trouble when it get to 70 degrees out side the baits will go flat if you dont keep them on ice you cant even leave them on the deck of your boat for more than 5 minutes.

Where do you buy your molds? Or do you make it your self

Instead of Bondo for the mold try some JB Weld. It should hold up to the temp better than the Bondo and should poor with about the same consistency. Also try vibrating the mold after you poor it with a palm sander to try and get the material settled in better. You are close to getting it perfect and great video.

whats the difference in Mega_Craw.stl and crawdad_mold.stl?

Thank you for sharing this experience, having a floating, flexible and resistant plastic has always been my dream. I live in Brazil and plastic with these characteristics that I find here has a negative point, which is that it makes the bait sticky and sticky. Does this product you tested in the video make the bait sticky?

I used exactly the same printing set. the resin had a temperature of 40 degrees Celsius. I set the thermostat to 24-28 degrees and everything was fine in the box, but the heater got very hot and the printing failed.

i would like to see you make some realistic scale effects on a swimbait.

How long does that squid lure mold last? I’ve seen and read they melt very quickly and you don’t get many baits from them? There’s a guy selling one on eBay and wants 110 bux for it. Don’t wanna pay that if not gonna last?

Thank you again for the most useful information.

Learned a bit this morning. Thank you. I am just getting started making soft baits. Once I receive my injector and mold I will be giving this a go. Thank you once again.