Part 2 is the installation of the pump. It's on the channel somewhere. Thanks.

Less than 14 stone. Just have big feet.

Well you know what they say, "if it ain't broke... break it, then you can fix it". Merry Christmas.

Muchas gracias y Feliz Navidad.

Ok I'll bite. WTF r u talking about? ( sorry, I was sitting in a bar when I answered) Now if the subject was, "my back door lock(s) don't work", and this was a new(er) truck that had more than primitive electronics, your suggestions though correct for some model years, do not seem to apply to the subject of this video. It seems quite specific to a particular problem so I would think you had another video in mind. That being said, I applaud you for being part of the knowledge base for this media source. I firmly believe that due to the input of the worldwide community, the value of informative videos is greatly multiplied. There exists the world of knowledge in the experience of people, and sharing it is using it at it's highest level. So, thanks for being part of it. I love when others share their experiences as well.

I have seen 'em with the locks on them. I think it was my Ford van though. Thus one is simple with just a mechanical connection. Anti-seize is a great idea for anything that routinely needs to be taken back apart. As for the torch, I much prefer to use a heat gun. 1000 degrees at the tip but no open flame. Working on a lift I feel much better about it but laying on my back under the truck, yikes. A bit of pucker factor there. Thanks for the tips.

Hmm, never heard of that. Gonna have to check into it. Been thinking about putting a Weathertech cargo mat in back but I'm too cheap to buy one new. I will be searching the junkyard though. I think I can come up with something good enough. I just want to keep liquids, especially oil out of the carpet. I keep all the stuff I carry with me in plastic trays but something across the entire space would be great. Of course, there will be a video. Thanks, great tip.

I should have taken a second to look this up before replying. Americolor $50 for a carpet dye kit, about $25 for a can of carpet paint. The dye covers 100sq ft according to the mfg. Don't know how far a can of paint will go. Depends on how many coats I guess. Geez, now I'm gonna have to look into this. Since my carpets are now as clean as they're gonna get, time is of the essence. This is why I love youtube. Great information to be shared. Thanks again.

It would cost about 10k to have full leather installed here in CALIFORNIA SoCal. Lol butter soft minks on the floor the seats is ostrich.

Your welcome. The scooter has been sitting for a while now. Not good. One of the brake master's seal has gone. wasn't able to start it so I have been working on other stuff. I plan on getting back on it soon. The brakes are pretty much useless now so I have to look into that. Tires, not so great but for putting around they should be fine for a while yet. I think my starting issue might be a float problem. Of course I'll be filming. Thanks.

Go big, or go home. I heard a story about a dad and his son. The son completed a project of some sort. His dad asked him "did you put your name on it"? As an aircraft mechanic, we literally do have to put our names on our work. Time and age have taught me a few things about corrosion and bare minimum standards. In my case, I have a tendency to keep things in operation for decades. Routine maintenance, inspections, and quality workmanship allow that to happen. In Florida, everything made of steel rusts, aluminum oxidizes. The best way to combat that is WD40 on everything and stainless steel hardware. Why not do things the best way possible? In most cases it doesn't cost much but can make a huge difference in the future. My favorite saying on the matter: "the bitterness of poor workmanship remains long after the pleasures of low price are forgotten" Bob Collins. On the back of a carpenter's business card. Sorry, but you asked. Thanks.

Not positive but I just looked at an image on google of a 2002 3.0 V6. It looks very similar at the least. Probably not much changed in 3 years from what I can see. Just a tip, if you need a picture of what something looks like, for instance if you had to leave the project for a while and don't recall where something goes, google it and click on images. Almost everything has been photographed and posted online. Same with service manual info. Lots of pages from the manuals avail there. Good luck.

@teammudshark6894 awesome, thanks!!

Thank you. Love the user name.

Great. Glad to hear it. Thanks.

Thanks. Love the user name.

Thanks for the tip. I love more access. Easier to check out everything else you normally don't get to see.

So, the info you need depends on the engine you have. If you want to find it, enter "1995 Ford Ranger ( engine size ) timing chain replacement" in you tube. There should be videos for this. You might also want to just search that same thing in google. When the results come up, click on "images". There will be a bunch of pictures from different sources generally showing the timing pulleys and the alignment marks on the edge of the pulleys. The general rule will be to remove the timing cover, then rotate the engine until the timing marks are lined up before removing the chain/pulleys. When you re-install the new ones, you line up the pulleys the same way you took them off with the new chain on them. they should go right on in the correct position provided you don't turn the engine when they are removed. The keyways on the shafts should be in the correct position. Take the spark plugs out and use a wrench on the crankshaft pulley to turn the engine. You can also try to use the starter to "bump" the engine over until the marks line up. Surely, there are videos to show you all this. Good luck.

Great. Glad to hear it. Hopefully my mistakes can help some folks out. Thanks.

Travelers, as a matter of fact, offered parking spaces to policy holders in higher ground. Never heard of that before. A great beneft indeed. Almost no one out there expected 3 feet of water in their garages. I think they will now.

@@teammudshark6894 👍

So, as I mention in the description up there, complacency seems to be the main reason. I personally rode out dozens of Hurricanes over 20 years. This kind of storm surge never happened. Today, less than a week after hurricane Milton, which if it would have hit just north of Tampa Bay which it looked like it was going to do, instead of Helene not even getting within a hundred miles, this damage would be 10X worse, and the loss of life would have been devastating. Also as I mentioned, no one that I know was going to stay again and unbelievably, the next one came directly in shortly after. Everyone left. Thankfully for IRB, the surge did not come this time. Wind and rain only. The city did not get obliterated, this time. In my case, our family left and stayed in a motel off the beach in 1960. A tree fell on the motel we were at and my mother decided we were going to ride them out at home, might be safer. We never left again. Most everyone I knew growing up did the same. Our house was right on the water in a small canal thing. The closest water ever came into our house was about 1" from the threshold. In the 1970s it was that required that new construction had to be 8' over mean high tide I believe it was, in order to buy flood insurance. Some time later, they required all new construction to be up there. Garages only on the 1st floor. The Florida Keys did this many years ago allowing only breakaway walls on the 1st floor. No living spaces allowed. Of course that was abused and was fine until a hurricane came along and washed over the island knocking all those walls out. Saved the houses, usually but everything downstairs ended up in Florida Bay. In IRB's case, while there is a lot of new construction, most of the houses are older, single story ones. Milton is being called a 100 year storm, one reason my folks moved here cause there had been one of those not too long before they got here, and they figured they didn't have to worry about it for 100 years. The conditions are being called a 500 year occurrence. Despite whatever the climate deniers believe, 90 degree water temps in the Gulf in October are not "normal". Unfortunately climate disasters are becoming more common all over the planet. I'm sure you were simply making a comment and did not expect this long diatribe, but the short answer is that because of this never being this bad, even though they were told to get out, a lot of folks thought they would be fine. I don't know what they could have really done about their stuff in their houses, but they could have at least moved their cars/trucks/boats to higher ground on the mainland. Took their important records and pictures etc.. but again, they did not expect this. Hindsight is 20/20. They will from now on. They weather folks are getting this dialed in. At least going forward people should have plenty of warning to get prepared. Sorry again, but you did sort of ask. Just a perspective from a long term resident. As I've gotten older I have moved farther and farther from the coast. Not on purpose, it just worked out that way. It seems to have been a positive thing after all.

@@teammudshark6894 THANK YOU ! 🙏 I now understand far better the "complacency..." Makes sense ! I probably would have done it too... As a potential newcomer I think I would never have anything of STRONG emotional value in the house, or on lower floors... ALSO I would purposefully buy cheaper furniture... I think I would keep an older car there in case I was stuck out of town... BUT I could have local keys hidden and get a neighbor to move it too... I think if I moved there ACCEPTING it is more likely and acted accordingly then emotionally it would not hit me as hard if/when it happens again... I LOVE the old single story old-florida designs... Breaks my heart how many will be gone now and also under the UGLY build rules Do NOT like the "on stilts" outer-banks look of the newer design homes... Thanks again... Thorughly enjoyed your well developed history 💪

Thanks for the comment. As I mention in the video, this must be a design characteristic. I recently worked on 2 more Craftsman mowers, different models and both do the same thing. It makes sense that since the the discharge chute is on the right, one will cut closer to tree,s and fences, and obstacles, on the left side. The tighter turn radius allows you to cut closer when going around them. This was just one of those things that made me say "hmmm". I can see how this may be an industry standard since John Deere does it too.

@@teammudshark6894 since i posted this comment i found out that on my john Deere somehow the pinion gear and sector gear jumped several teeth, so i pulled the gears and centered everything. steering wheel, gears etc , now it has and equal turning radius and no interference with the deck

Thanks. Though maybe a bit obscure, I figured if I am having to deal with this thing, someone else must have to as well. I'm not thrilled with the design, especially the bearing blocks at the bottom, but hey, these are 20 years old. I can't really complain too much.

Absolutely right. My approach, flawed as it may be is to figure out how to do these things in the manner that one is likely to attempt. What I mean is, there are many videos that show a clean, edited perfect removal/installation on a seemingly new part that does not reflect the reality that most folks are facing. I try to do them like a novice would do them, trying to mention every seemingly non-important detail that they might face, the same as I am doing in the video. I am aware that at times it looks that I am just fumbling along, but I believe there is place for this type of instructional video. I try to show how I solve the problems that I face in a real-life situation, so that the viewer can see that they too can do it and that it may not be as daunting as they think. "If I can do it, so can you". Granted, I have decades of experience in solving old machine problems/resurrections so I do actually have a clue. Because the things I mostly work on are mostly old, these videos are directed at those in the same situation where they really have no choice but to try to do it themselves. Thanks for the comment. I appreciate those who take the time to do so. In general, negative comments and pointing out errors can often be more useful than positive ones. I will always try to fix any screw ups. Even if I can't do it myself, if I have to deal with it, I try to show what I ended up doing. If I make a mistake, I definitely will show that. Same principal, the best way to avoid a mistake is to avoid it in the 1st place. The strongest lessons you learn from your mistakes. Better that you learn from someone else's. it's much cheaper. Thanks again.

Al ver el video, no parece que se haya tenido que mover el compresor. Gracias.

I know it's not much, unless you are faced with it. You have to think like the Brits. Good Luck with that. No offense to the UK but... there was a saying in the Bizjet world in reference to the Hawker jets: "if you've seen one Hawker, you've seen one Hawker". The sentiment seemed to be that each one was built a little differently like hand built machines tend to be. Kind of a pain if you have to work on them. Anyway, thanks.

Sorry for the delay. They are referred to as "fuel line disconnect tools". I don't recall which store I got mine but it came as a set of different sizes probably from Dorman in the "help" section. I think they're mainly for Fords. I seem to recall the fuel filter along the frame on my '99 Ford E150 van needed one as well. Thanks.

@@teammudshark6894 I tried using fuel line disconnect tools. Sucker didn't want to come off. Ended up not needing to disconnect any of the lines and was able to replace all 6 injectors

Cool. I didn't know that was an option. Thanks.

@@sergiotorres3573 I used a simple scan tool. It doesn't get too much into details. I believe I simply deduced that if the ignition was working the other factor was the fuel/injectors. They're so cheap it's a no lose choice.