Super common problem with Hondas. Maybe they have a solution by now but not sure

I have been told it’s called the blend door actuator. A super cheap part but apparently the entire dash has to come off so labor will cost a ton. My car has made this damn noise for 10 years 🤦🏻‍♀️

My 2008 has the exact same thing going on which is surprising because it’s a generation newer.

no music please

How about sizes please what we cUT them to.

These blocks are pretty thin castings. They're strong enough to "contain" 20-30hp as long as all the moving parts stay where they belong, but I wouldn't trust one after the conrod has grenaded. This sort of failure chews up everything near the big end of the rod, and creates bits of metal that go everywhere they aren't supposed to be and cause all sorts of problems. So even if the block is undamaged, you still have to disassemble everything completely to clean out abrasives, replace anything that was visibly damaged, and replace any wear items (e.g., the oil pump) now while it's open. This is why it's important to shut down an engine at the first sign of trouble: it starts running rough or suddenly sounds different. If you catch it before something breaks, you can often address the one thing that's broken-like a head gasket or piston rings-and just put it back together again. Once it grenades, anything short of a full rebuild or replacement is taking a chance.

Looks good, BUT CRAPPY VIDEO. NO sizes etc.

Really woulda helped if u disassembled it on camera

Where did you get the wood?

What do we need music for why don’t you talk

Is good video for helping peoples, thank you but the common in all those caind of videos is you can't see the small thing how is installed because move the camara too much.

Can you do a aesy pvc trash bin can you show me how to doit please

This is a very informative series for any engine hobbyist, Thank you for sharing!

??????

Replace it with a predator engine from HFT

I used the Lowes Arnold Fuel Line kit. Probably should have bought two, the larger yellow, primer line was 1-2 inches shorter than I wanted, but it worked.

looks like the piston isnt pissin...

The carburetor is a bit different that the one in the video. if I look to the right side of the carburetor there are 2 lines. The bulb has 2 lines, 1 larger one and the other smaller. I understand which one goes in the tank as its labeled. what I don't understand is why there are 2 portals on the right side and what goes into which. I know one of the lines from the bulb has to go into one of those portals, but that still leaves one portal empty of a line. any answers or suggestions??

Looked everywhere for new carb. I could only find repair kit. The old one had a broken diaphragm. Installed it and no it won't start.

Thank you! I heated up a small screwdriver on the gas stove and burned a small hole in the new fuel line where I trimmed it. This let me tie fishing line to it and pull it through and get it started easier. Thanks again

there was no point to the video

How do you fix it?

Gee whiz! Next time get someone else to handle the camera for you.

Looking for the issue to this problem

Got admit, the video really didn't help me get my chainsaw running but I love the song ,keep rocking

Anybody found the issue yet?

Spent 5 videos without checking compression on an engine that sounds like it doesn't have any compression? Hope they're not paying by the hour

The SECRET to getting the fuel line THROUGH.. is to cut it down the middle longways about 3 inches. and cut one half off.. take the other skinny half and feed it through the hole. reach in through the tank filler hole with needle nose pliers and pull.. WD-40 on the line helps. pull out and cut smooth.. grab other end and pull it back in tank.

YES! Thanks to all who suggested the grease on the sensor wheel causing the problem. My 04 Odyssey had this issue. What I did: 1. Turned on the car, turn air to cold to orient the arm correctly. You may also have to remove a panel or a crossbar to gain better access to the control box, depending on model of vehicle this is on. 2. Snap off the plastic holder that keeps the metal arm connected to the damper system, disconnect electrical connection, remove three screws, and remove unit. 3. With the white plastic control arm facing you, take a good mental note (or photo) of the orientation of this arm and the flat side of the shaft it connects to. This will be important later. 4. CAREFULLY use a small flat blade screwdriver to lift the snap connector up with one hand and slide the control arm up from the shaft with other hand. Now the control arm is off the unit and you should only see the shaft coming out the back of the control box. 5. CAREFULLY pry off the little black clips all around the control box JUST enough to get clearance to slide up. There is one clip on each side and two on the connector body. If you go too far they WILL break. Separate the two halves and now you have the white plastic gears and motor exposed. 6. The only thing you will need to remove here is the big gear. Slide it up and you will see some spring loaded brass "fingers" that press against the bottom of this gear wheel. These are the sensors that detect the position of the gear wheel. These "fingers" are likely coated with black, greasy stuff. Clean them up really well with an old tooth brush or whatever works for you. Also wipe the bottom of the gear wheel clean. IMPORTANT: once you have cleaned them off, use some CLEAN grease that you can probably find in a few places inside the housing and rub a light coat all around the bottom of the gear wheel. The grease was there by design, but over the years some of the black conductive material from the wheel came off in the form of dust and collected in greasy mess on the sensor fingers, which caused shorting of those signals, making the motor flutter around. 7. Put it all back together (remember orientation of the control arm in step 3). I plugged mine in to the connector before mounting to the vehicle, turned the car on and adusted the temperature a few places to make sure it was not fluttering. Once you confirmed you fixed it, install in the car and enjoy. Congratulations! You just fixed this problem for free and saved yourself a $400 charge from the dealership. If you have no mechanical skills whatsoever, this is at most a 1 hour job.

I thought it was a great video. Keep up the good work.

Your video is making me dizzy Are you bouncing Up-and-down on a pogo stick O the making of your video O

Are you a fucking mute. This didn't explain shit.

BriggsRepair added to Shit for Brains list.

I hear it on both sides. Always thought it's reprogramming the system or something from left side to right

I have the same problem. What did they say it was?

Hallelujah! Been hearing this for five years! Thank you

I see the the video showed the problem with the air but I did not hear any explanation nor any solution. This noise under the dash happened recently on my Honda Accord too. I noticed that the clicking noise starts right after I started the car, before I even turn on the AC. My AC works fine, it is cold on both sides but the damned clicking noise is intolerable constant. I think if it is not fixed, eventually it will burn the little motor and then it would be a $115 problem. I am glad that it happens now when it is still summer so it is an easy job to pull it out and clean up the old grease and the contacts and put them back together with new dielectric grease. Don't waste the money to replace the entire unit if the motor still works. Don't forget to put new grease on the sensor wheel or the sensor wheel and the contacts will be worn beyond repair. There are two of these motor assemblies on the EX model with individual temperature controls, one on each side. This video was useful for me to put the motor assembly back with the door control arms in the right position because I forgot to turn the temperature control to max cold before taking it out.

omg, get a camera stand.

Starter hanging by wire? Yikes.

brilliant and simple

I know you can get solutions for that on woodprix website.

woodprix has very useful instructions with all details I need

Same with mine

Looks like an easy fix. Anyone have a detailed instruction of how to remove the lower dash to be able to get to the actuator? I am afraid to just start pulling plastic apart and breaking things.

Omg that’s what it is

I hate to say this but you need to back away or refocus your camera, we cannot see anything it’s all blurred. Also an explanation of which hose goes where would be most helpful. Also I do believe you babe be mistaken on where the hoses go not sure because I don’t understand where you put the hoses on your video. Also get a mount for your phone/camera, shaky & blurry pictures.

you have an exact list of fittings and pipe needed?

Lousy camera work and focus. Fuel line still won't fit in hole to tank though. Tried oil and soap both, still no luck! Maybe your "wish you luck" meant more than it appeared?

I have the same issue in 2007 Accord. Most times I hear it regardless if ac is on or off. But after I drive for about 10 minutes, shut car off and restart to go elsewhere, I don't hear it (not consistent). Hopefully this is the problem because it sounds the same. Any video available to show access?

You make it look so easy. I have even have that little locking surgical tweezer-pliers that you used. I pushed and pulled and cussed and discussed putting both the lines in those holes and they would not go in. Even diagnally cutting the fuel lines. The ONLY way either of them would go through is to pass a wee-bit larger drill and enlarge the holes. Then, when completed, use a little JB weld to fill around the entry points from the outside. I hope that I have not hurt anything. Tell me WHY the line ID is important? This is the only video that I have seen that used both sizes of fuel line. Others say one size or the other for both. Usually the smaller one.