It's fun to see an idea work out. What do you shoot them in?

@@HanstheTraffer I haven't gotten that far, still experimenting. I scrapped the lathe idea so now i'm working on a custom hole saw for the heel. It's a .22 case with teeth filed in and slid in a 5.7mm tube. the idea is for the "bit" to act as a hole saw and trim the heel down to .21. currently i have an astra cub in .22 short but i might upgrade to a ruger LCP in 22LR for extra penetration.

That makes the process quicker if you change jaws frequently.

Nothing. Those are just colors I was experimenting with. Some colors cover better than others.

Thank You

Thank you. Few people seem to have an interest. I have found that making the hollow bases on heeled bullets does make a difference as they obturate the heeled portion to the rifling. As far as I am aware there is no method other than swaging to make hollow based heeled bullets.

@@HanstheTraffer I'm a big fan of shooting antique single shot rifles and so many of them really want a heel bullet. In addition, your comment on hollow base obturation makes perfect sense, like a scaled down .58 hollow base. ....Doc

Wouldn't alcohol be better. It would definitely dry faster.

22 Mag is exactly the same except the case is a bit larger diameter.

Mark and Sam learned from me. It will work on a 22 WMR. But you have to have the tools to make it. Like the 22lr, just about any 22 cal Lee Factory Crimper can be modified.

@@HanstheTraffer How to Modify You should Do a Video on .22 Magnum😁

@@HanstheTraffer kzbin.info/www/bejne/p5aTm3d6a9mFqMU

@@HanstheTraffer Do you have a Video that shows how to Crimp .22 magnum already?

Thank You

I don't have any experience with blanks.

It works great. I show how it works on a different video.

There are many ways to get precision. I use reamers a lot.

@@HanstheTraffer good idea!

Good to hear from you Rollie. Are you going to ever make more videos? I heard the farmers in your country were having difficulty with the government. I hope you are ok.

Thanks. There are a lot of steps. But it is going in the right direction.

There is actually a moment in the video where I hit my finger and you can see skin flying.hahahah. It is relatively safe. It doesn't abrade like a grinding wheel. But if you held your finger on for a good length of time it would indeed be painful.

It did work

I noted that in the video.

Hmmmm, I can't remember. I think I just put a shim under the nut and put the cross slide plate on top to use a transfer punch, leaving the nut on the screw makes it easy to get the holes lined up.....actually can't even remember if I used a transfer punch or drill bit to mark the holes. .... Thanks for the comment.

Can your mold be plunge cut? What I mean is, if the bullet gets any narrower at the base it can't be plunge cut. What bullet are you wanting to make? .223?

@@HanstheTraffer Yes.. it can be plunge cut. It currently is a gas check mold that I want to make into a plane base, open it up slightly, and reprofile the nose. I am shooting a 5.56 single shot.. it likes larger bullets.

@@HanstheTraffer I also have the ability to size down as needed

@@HanstheTraffer Just wondering as it's been a while.. I previously wanted to know if you would be interested in modifying a drill bit for me.. I would pay you of course. What do you think?

@@shadowcastre Send me an email with the specs you want. I will see what I can do.

I don't want to use match grade bullets. I want to make the best bullets ever made. Cutting edge has copied much of my stuff already. I am the first one to develop this stuff for 22lr.

Yes an extended shell holder would also be required when using Center Fire Dies for either 22lr or 22 WMR. Check out "Old West Bullet Molds" website. Bernie makes adjustable rim fire shell holders. He has pictures of them. I am not sure he makes them for 22lr or 22wmr but I'm sure he can. I think I have a video that shows how I made them. You will need to know how to cut the grove in the base to make the holder. If you do any machining it is easy. If you are not familiar with lathe work and milling machine work you will have to figure out how to do that. It' s a simple procedure but you will either have to grind a special cutting bit (end mill) to make the slotted groove to hold the rim of the case. As far as the crimp diameter and recutting the die from a center fire die, I did not just measure and cut. It was a process of trial and error, sneaking up on the final dimensions. Some people are good at that and some aren't. It would be difficult to just give someone a drawing with dimensions for a crimp die. 22wmr does have a larger case diameter. But there are no absolute dimensions for depth of crimp either. So again experimentation and "sneaking up" on the final dimension is necessary. I hope this makes it clear. Also, I haven't worked on this stuff now for a couple of years. So I can't hop on my lathe and work out the dimensions or anything. Good luck. Just keep at it... you will figure it out...PS if you pay a machinist or someone like Old West to do the work for you be prepared to pay a pretty penny.

PS Changing the "height" of the die, like you said would require an adjustable holder, if you used Cutting Edges die. You would also have to change the diameter of the crimp a bit. That MAY require touching up the sharp angle on the very edge of the crimp. Otherwise it would make a thick ring crimp, if you get what I mean. Also, If you are going to use copper bullets, many of the dynamics of the crimp/burn will be a little different. Just as Cutting Edge is finding out precision match cartridges takes time and patients and quite a bit of study to figure out. Personally I think that swaged lead bullets are a far more viable solution for rimfire shooting.

@@HanstheTraffer I think starting with a die that is for .22 LR is a better starting point than with a centerfire die that is tool large. It took you several steps to round out the ID with reamers on the .204 die if I recall. Better to enlarge a .22 LR die in my opinion. I do have a lathe, a nice SB 9" with R8 collects. Old West is out of stock on the .22 LR crimp dies. What got me started down the .22WMR road was a You Tuber by Mark and Sam criming them with improved accuracy on factory ammo. They are long range shooter even ouyt to a mile in some calibers. Good folks.

Welcome 😊Thanks for replying.

Yes the caps I use are "Legends" which are made in Germany. (Don't know if they are still in business though) Many people have used punches. But then you have the paper to deal with and it takes much longer.

I cut the die to a couple of thousandths smaller than the final size ...then swage a slug with lead into that die...then coat it with the appropriate particle size lapping compound. And spin the die on the shaped "slug" with the lap on it. Don't use valve lapping compound. It's too coarse. Depending on how much material you want to polish off you may only need to use from 600 to 1000 grit to start with and finish it off with even finer girt. There are charts online that show the comparisons between the different scales used to grade grit...micron, ansi, iso and the W gradient that China uses. To measure the progress, just swage another slug and measure it. It's an easy process and works great. If you have more questions I will make another video explaining the whole process. (I have a video showing the polishing but it doesn't explain the process very well).

@@HanstheTraffer nice... so after making bullet/slug and applying compound... how did you hold on to the bullet .. did you drill and tap ?? Or made a really long bullet and chucked it

@@volcom84bait Drilled and tapped. I have a video on it called "Polishingmechanism For Bullet Swaging Dies" I don't know if they will let me put the link here but I'll try...kzbin.info/www/bejne/haaUi2BrhLeoepo

Google "Armstrong Mix"

Do you mean sharpen it on the flute side of the cutting edge? Like changing the rake angle?

@@HanstheTraffer the leading edge / cutting edge that is on the twist of the drillbit , you can get a sharler edge with dremmel by sharpening the leading edg from inside the twist

@@HanstheTraffer the leading edge / cutting edge that is on the twist of the drillbit , you can get a sharler edge with dremmel by sharpening the leading edg from inside the twist

I have heard that the soot from black powder helps mitigate the corrosiveness of armstrong mix. ...Still need to clean them right away though.

Sounds great!

I watched that also. Steve is an overkill kind of guy. Plus...There is no follow up about oil leaking all over the lathe and inside of the gear box down to the motor ares. I want to avoid that.

I'm still running the original bearings in my lathe. I put a 16 inch bed on it a year or so ago and have been thinking about making a little turret lathe with the old bed so maybe if I ever get around to that I'll finally swap the bearings.

Hans, I just happened upon this video where a guy made his mini lathe headstock oil bath lubricated. It's a little involved but an interesting approach. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eKWTZ31mgLqIpqs

@@michaelcalabro2376 I would suggest going with angular contact bearings,

@@michaelcalabro2376 He did great work however, from a practical perspective, a normal set of bearings without oil bath lubrication would last 30 to 100 years of normal use. It's like putting ball bearings on all the doors in you house, Just unnecessary.

Thanks That's what I needed to hear.