First a disclaimer. This video was produced about 5 years ago and is still helpful for any viewers who want to use a systemic (plant absorbing) insecticide. Since making this video, however, I have retired and no longer maintain these videos with the latest information, particularly alternatives to imidacloprid. For some of the latest research information on crepe myrtle bark scale, check out this site: stopcmbs.com/ In answer to @lukemom2545's question, lady beetle releases have not, to my knowledge, been effective at controlling CMBS. On the other hand, lady beetles are one of the best natural controls for these scale, and have been seen to be very effective at controlling CMBS at some times of year. The distinction is that releasing captive lady beetles is rarely effective in managing pests because of their tendency to leave the area of release quickly (usually almost entirely within 48 hours). Naturally occurring lady beetles, on the other hand, can be very effective, given enough time. The only drawback to these native lady beetles is that they come and go in their own time and may not act quickly enough to prevent that early season shower of honeydew and formation of black sooty mold. There is research going on to see whether there are other effective biological methods for controlling the bark scale, and the best sources of that information are more recent extension publications (check the dates of publication) and the Stop CMBS website I mentioned above. The bottom line is that spending time and money on lady beetle releases is likely not going to be very helpful for these pests. Good luck with your control efforts.

@@observr1 Thanks for your reply and for all the information. I will check out the link.

That sounds like a great trick getting the soot off the leaves too cause I assume that stunts the photosynthesis

Watch the video. He speaks it and shows it printed. Bayer Advanced tree and shrub.

This video was made a few years ago before the bans occurred. And the impact is still in question. But if applied only when not in bloom, the impact is greatly reduced. Neem oil is also useful but only when not in bloom. Power washing the trees usually works well enough

NEEM oil did not work.

You did what you felt was best at that point. They will grow back. It is great that you are there to help make sure that they will be OK .😊

I tried Neem Oil, NOPE. The scale use a protective waxy coating so that didnt do anything. I sprayed my entire tree. None fell off.

I feel your pain. I am just treating mine so that it doesnt spread to the neighbors and the other ones I have. This could become very serious. I am in So. Carolina.

it's $20 on Amazon

For most people, washing upper branches and small twigs is not practical. Not to mention physically scrubbing small branches hard enough to dislodge scale is difficult. The washing process will not rid your tree of scales anyway but is primarily for aesthetics--making the trunks look better. While we don't recommend pruning large branches in the winter (a practice horticulturalists often refer to as "crape murder"), taking some time to prune last year's twigs with old seed heads and/or signs of scale would probably be faster and more effective at removing some scale than taking a toothbrush to those smaller branches. Restrict your pruning to branches pencil thickness or smaller and you'll keep the form of your tree and have it look nice.

Thanks for your request, but I'm now retired. You should check with the new entomologist, Bryant McDowell at the AgriLife Extension office dallas.tamu.edu/about/team/

That’s what I was thinking

It depends on what the label instructions. Each insecticide registered for use in the U.S. is independently evaluated for safety and appropriate personal protective equipment will be specified on the label for that product. You can always go safer and wear a mask if you feel better about it, but if it's not required by the label, you don't have to.

Probably not. Read the label. Usually these systemics are not labeled for fruit trees.

While treatment right now would likely be effective, the labels on soil drench treatments generally prohibit application to trees in bloom. This is to avoid harming pollinator bees. If you want to do something, you'll have to limit yourself to washing the tree down with a soft brush and bucket of soapy water. The good news is that predatory insects usually join the battle against your scales in mid- to late summer. And they are less affected by the soapy water scrub than by the injected insecticides.

Interesting. Of course OFF is not labeled for use on plants. It may have surfactants or other ingredients that are toxic to plant tissues. Every repellent will be different. Some repellents are actually plant extracts, but that doesn't necessarily mean the formulation (active + chemicals designed to make the product easy to apply and stick to surfaces) itself is safe for a plant. OFF is also toxic to some aquatic life, so care should be taken when applying on a boat or around bodies of water.

No. Soap is pretty good at killing eggs and most of what you see is old scale covers, which are not alive. Keep in mind though, that soap scrubs are more for aesthetics than for killing the scales. We have never gotten very good scale suppression with washing--they usually come back if conditions are good for them.

Nearby shrubs may indeed absorb some of the insecticide, but you should still be able to get control if you apply to the root zone of the crapemyrtle.