Was thinking the same, or even see it

I have a 48inch wooden dowel that'll probably work

no sorry but after you remove the transmission it should just pull out. Nothing holds it in.

I know this is a old comment but it sounds like you lucked out,if something had happened you would know it in minutes,once the pump is crushed by the converter etc you will have a major fluid leak and some "strange noises" if you start the car

@@dntlss I re-installed everything and drove it 4 miles and my fuel pump gave out. Have had it parked since last fall getting the rest of the suburban together. There is a solid puddle of trans fluid from the bell housing area. It was leaking this bad before I rebuilt it as well. So not entirely sure what the issue is but it’ll have to come back out soon enough. 1996 4L80 on what I did.

@@dntlss It does run but started leaking pretty bad about 2-3 weeks after install.

if you remove the torque converter you should be able to spin the input shaft with a set of pliers

@@askcramer500 thank you for your reply. I removed the torque converter and tried to turn the shaft with plyers but only the smaller diameter shaft turns but the larger one doesn't. Thank you for your assistance.

@@jhm8708 the larger shaft is the stator support shaft and it will not spin. just the smallest inside shaft should turn freely.

Dave I'm getting ready for rocket

Thanks Dave, exactly what i was thinking "can't let this kid get away from me"

Thanks! 😁

I didn't talk about clutch pressure plate and flywheel alignment because this was a video on properly installing a torque converter in a transmission. The converter gets bolted to a flex plate not a flywheel so i didn't include flywheel info in the video.

Its like packing bearings, you could get a Masters from Harvard or Standford on it and make a KZbin video and people will say you are doing it wrong, some people that are master mechanics absolutely positively swear on filling a converter before running it and some dont,that will never change. like a car battery on the floor,ive had a few old timers when i was younger yell at me "Get that battery of the floor!!!!", that has been debunked thanks to the internet, another one that blew my mind was the crankshaft thing,i have read extensively that in reality you dont have to stand a crank on its end but heck i still do, reason a lot of people do is because it saves space not because it will warp,anyhow, i just think its interesting all the different ways of doing things people have.

Definitely best to prefill to not cause premature wear

​@@BLACKEDOUTVIK No need. Like the OP said the pump will fill the converter. There's enough assembly lube in the converter for initial start up. 43 years in transmissions and I have never prefilled a converter and never had a problem.

The clutch assembly is bolted to the flywheel and the flywheel is bolted to the crankshaft. Both of them turn in concert with the engine crankshaft.

E dubb 414bound put some gas

flex plates are pretty light and don't need to be balanced usually. the torque converter maybe balanced

@@askcramer500 thank you we're in a process of taking a motor out and didn't really want to mess with the torque converter except for the four bolts in the flex plant ,can the converter be left on the transmission for an extended time without support ?

@@dissociativecat7495 yup leave the converter in the transmission. after you unbolt it push it back into the trans as far as it will go maybe 1/8" and good luck pulling the motor. get a jack under the trans to support so it doesn't go nose down after the engine is separated

Depends on the engine and what you go with. For this Chrysler trans, a 5.2 magnum/LA block is internally balanced and a 5.9 magnum/LA block is externally. Look up engine specs to see which is what on any make engine and how they’re balanced vs what part is used to balance.