Engine is going back into the cart. It is mums Cart and she wants it for a little property runabout.

The 38TD BMC diesel is the motor in the 4/65. Was also found in the 4/60, 10/60 and later the Leyland 384, before the engine received a facelift and changed from 38T to the 4/98.

I had not really even taken notice of it until the last couple of years when I found more out about it. Then one day last week I thought to myself I would pull it out the back of the shed and get it going

​@@BIGRIG2005. I dunno bro I have a 1972 Yamaha dt1 Enduro 360 with 4700 original miles on it I bought it and naturally it decided to blow a hole thru the piston 2.8 miles after I bought it and come to find out there were only 5 OEM pistons I could order and one original top end assembly now there's only 4 OEM pistons left in the market and imma have to get the top end assembly because I let my boss at the shop I work in install my piston rings and he fucked 'em up so bad the cylinder and piston nuked itself within Four minutes of it's initial startup and I was running a 30:1 premix fuel so it had lubrication that wasn't an issue at all

Okay, no problems, but first I need more info. These models have two different starters. The one mine has, which sits to the side and turns the engine by a gear which raises to engage. There is also a starter which the later models have, which sits on top of the engine and spins the flywheel from on top. If you have the later model starter I cannot help you unfortunately as I have never fixed one sorry. Secondly, Has the rope become fully detached from the starter assembly or is it still attached and does not want to retract? If it does not want to return back in, the recoil spring needs repair or replacement. Sometimes the spring skips it’s little spot if you pull the rope out too far and it just needs realigning, that or it is very worn and needs replacement.

Its the exact same as yours, and when i pulled the other day it released and then it broke in half 😅 so i need to find an new rope but luckily i live on an farm so should be easy to find something alike and then reattach it.

@ErikJohansson-zq3up I will have a look at the bottom of it when I get home for you, but it is most likely very easy to fix. You will have to tie a knot at the end, wind it all the way around the starter assembly and then pull it a little through the hole in the cowl and then feed the knob through the rope and tie a knot at the end of that.

Solved it (kind of) i havent found an rope yet but i know how it works now. Thanks for the attention🙏👌

I have the exact same outboard. I always had problems with the Bendix type starter, so I bought a pull cord starter off the later DT3.5 model that sits on top of the flywheel. It was a simple direct replacement and works much better. The only issue I had was I also had to fit the later hood (cowling?). I'd thought I'd be able to simply cut a hole in the existing hood for the pull cord, but it sat too low and wouldn't close. Otherwise a simple job if you can source the parts.

Hi Trevor, yes the pump is a VE, but manufactured/remanned by DAG. I obtained the pump through South Burnett tractor spares in Wooroolin QLD. They ordered it direct from Italy though, so it took a couple of weeks to arrive in the post. I think it cost a little under $3000 with postage included, but it will definitely pay itself off as the machine starts perfectly everytime and runs like a Swiss watch.

No. Unfortunately I did not have one on hand when I changed the oil. When I do the next service next year I will change that.

Thank you, these things are on the bucket list to do. The carb needs a good clean so that will be the next video. Stay tuned!

Cheers mate 👍

Thank you 👍, yes neither can I haha. I believe the 3y3 is a designation code for the model of bike, as there are a couple of different xt250 models. I have also found all sorts of Yamaha bikes have a 3** designation code, so I think it’s just a Yamaha thing for identifying bike types and models.

No, don’t think I bit off more than I can chew with this one haha 👍👍

Dynamo was re-polarized before fitment. Watch the part where I bench test it and you will see me polarise it to negative earth.

@@BIGRIG2005. You did it incorrectly. You have to polarise the dynamo at the voltage regulator. Otherwise you cannot guarantee that the dynamo will charge properly. Polarising at the regulator ensures the regulator is not faulty and that there is continuity through the cables and connections.

@TheRanger0ne the way I was always taught was to polarise at the dynamo field terminal before fitting. I haven’t ever tried doing it at the regulator box end but will try it. Cheers 👍

No I didn’t even think of that Grahame 😂, shall try it next time I hear a squawking dynamo 👍

Tks a lot for your esaustive and fast reply. Would you pls copy the link where i can buy the SINGLE HOLE? Tks once again.

Both the engines are the same size (3.8L), but the blocks on the later motors themselves are bored out. This is because the earlier 4/60, 10/60 and 4/65 had a tendency for the liners to go porous due to the small thickness of the liners. To accomodate thicker liners and keep the same displacement, the blocks were bored bigger from what I have gathered to support thicker liners. This is what I found when ordering liners, as the 384 engine has liners that are a couple of thou bigger

@@BIGRIG2005. Thank you. Now it makes sense to me. Keep up the good work! Greeting from Vic.

Thanks mate, part 2 isn’t far away so stay tuned 👌👍

And a merry Christmas to you mate, my Christmas is all sorted this year now I have an outboard to go fishing with haha

⁠Ditto to the above. You had to get stuck into the plumbing again. 👍🏻🙏🦘

Parts were easy to obtain, just a bit pricey on postage. They were all sourced through Tractor spare parts LTD, and took about a week to come from England to Australia.

Honestly keep the generator, much less mucking around. I love them as they are adjustable and easily diagnosable if they break down.

hehe I'd like to see a video on that :)@@BIGRIG2005.

each time i disconnect the battery (which is after i use it each time due to a month or so just sitting)I have to (forgot now) flash the generator or regulator to make the generator to charge

From my understanding flashing or “polarising” should only need to be done once, and once it is done you are set. Do you get a distinct spark when you flash? It is very weird that all of a sudden your battery will start charging after a repolarise on the dynamo.

It needs to be flashed everytime you disconnect the battery, otherwise it wont charge the battery... and yeah you do get a small spark...i dont do that much, i just leave it and charge the battery over night from time to time... I did flash it once off the generator positive and it worked as well@@BIGRIG2005.

Haha, very nice the pub is the best place to celebrate 👍👍. The 2.6l 3/42 motors are very good, watch out again, for liner problems. I do not believe they have as many problems as the 2.8 in the 3/45 however.

Yes have got a life jacket, only take it out when I actually go to bigger dams, rivers and the ocean, as our dam is not that big and I can capably swim to shore 😂

Spring was replaced on the power valve just didn’t show it on camera