I need one done

I don't live in arizona any longer

and ecu to like power it like you turn on the ignition?

If I had to make my best guess, the fully dressed weight including injection pump and accessories would be 350# +- 30 lbs. Sorry its not more accurate. This isn't including radiator or coolant though.

@@FiedtheNeedIT1 Thank you :-)

Thanks watching. I posted another video a while back about modifying the full harness. To just what you need. I mailed my ecu into Malone tuning and they turned it around fast for me with exactly what I needed

What exactly did Malone do for you? Build a new harness? Or just tune the ECU for your application? How much did it cost? I’d like to do a tune/EGR delete. Mine is currently throwing the code for the deleted EGR.

@@itskarl79 Hey karl, I sent malone just the ECU for the tune and swap related deletes. If you open a ticket with them, they will be glad to help, I think i paid something like $200 for the tune? You can check my other video to learn about how to modify the wiring harness, I'd be glad to answer any questions there too. I will post an update video in hopefully a few weeks. I had to take a break from the jeep to finish up school.

Also do those + and - have to be hooked up to run. I can get the engine to fire. The ecu is coming on and the injectors are getting fuel but all the engine will do is spin over

I found the answer to my question online 5 - 30a fused, 6 - 10a fused, and 9 - is a ground. The engine started right up. Now I have another problem with the TPS not working. Reading online that it could be the brake pin out.

Hey adam, yep i mean constant 12v power. Pretty much the only thing that gets momentary power is the wire connected directly into the starter which fires the starter solenoid. You can run that one through a relay from your ignition. The lilac/yellow wire on the blue connector is hard to figure out honestly. It's something i was planning on running an update on once I get the system more sorted, but I think the lilac/yellow wire is the one that actually powers the relay... so once igition is swithed and the ECU gets power, the Lilac/yellow starts running high 12v supplied from the ECU. The one that i DID glance over in the video is that the dark purple wire on the T14 connector needs 12 supplied to it to wake up all the engine sensors in addition to the yellow/black wire. Hope that helps!

@@FiedtheNeedIT1 I see! Yeah that’s great! So the dark purple wire on the T14 is switched power?

I had to modify the transfer case input gear only. NP231 that comes with the AX5 has a 21 spline input gear, but the NP231 that comes with the AX15 has a 23 spine input gear. You can either get a new transfer case, or do what I did and just swap the input gear over. It's usually a $40-$80 part. That is all that is *required* to the np231 to get it to swap over. Personally I also upgraded the NP231 with a wider chain as well, and also a slip yoke eliminator since everything was disassembled.

I'm not familiar with that engine, but from the name PD it's likely a pump duse VW engine which does not use the same bosch VP37 injection pump, but instead uses a different fuel injection pump. So no, I'm guessing this specific guide will not help you.

Bennett, the ALH engine code came in the Volkswagen Golf, Jetta, and New Beetle, and a few other things from 1999.5 to 2003. Basically the MK4 body styles. This video applies to the engines which have the bosch VP37 injection pump.

My 2003 beetle harness is little different, maf sensor has additional plug and is on the main body harness thats not pluged into ecu dirrectly.

Did you decode computer box?

Hi Bobby, The adapter is from a company called TD Conversions. There are also adapters available from a company called Cotybuilt. I'm not sure if there is any distinct advantages to one or the other. They both include the adapters that allow you go from the 1.9 TDI bolt pattern to the jeep AX-15 bolt pattern (and a few other chrysler/jeep transmissions). Both kits also include the crankshaft -> flywheel adapter which allows you to run the standard jeep 4.0 flywheel and clutch kit. In my case, I went with a high inertia jeep 4.0 flywheel from Centerforce, and a luk clutch kit.

Hey Adam, a couple reasons: there is a ton of room in the front and I made the entire front cossmember in 3 pieces so I could change and modify it as I wished. I wanted to kind of mimic the cotybuilt mounting truss but in an economical way. If I had gone to the side mounts, the fab work would have been a bit more difficult to get right the first time in my opinion I just didn’t want to deal with that. I know many other swaps have done that though. I do have an OME 2.5 inch suspension lift, it looks like there is at least 7 inches of upward clearance but I’m not going to be flexing anything out yet until it’s finished. Worst case I’ll have to put in some adjustable bump stops.

@@FiedtheNeedIT1 everything that you said makes a lot of sense! It sure looks good! I’m looking forward to seeing the coming progress.

I just used the Haynes manual which had a general wiring diagram, however I found it was just easier to trace back the components that I knew I needed to keep rather than tracking down individual wires

Hey Adam! I'm throwing this into my '97 TJ Wrangler but my goal was to show how the harness could be trimmed universally and be used in whatever. Hopefully should have my full swap done in a few months.

@@FiedtheNeedIT1 wow! That’s awesome I’m actually doing the exact same swap with a 97 Tj and ALH. Very good video thanks so much! 👏🙏🏻

@@adamsytsma5112 awesome, good luck with your build and let me know if I can help at all

Thanks I will!

You have time to make another? I'm on the fence of TDI or MTDI alh for this very reason in the wiring.

Sorry if it wasn't clear, the pedal is powered directly from the ECU which is in turn powered by the battery, I'll be uploading another video covering how this wiring harness was made, and what to keep and delete in a few days.

@@FiedtheNeedIT1 that would be much helpful im about to start on my swap and im needing help on wats the bare minimum that i need to run the engine all i want to keep is the ac and that’s it