Of course, you'll just have to turn your project over to do that (snipping from the front reduces the amount of times you have to flip your project). Do whatever is most comfortable for you, there are no rules. 😊

You are so welcome! 😊

So glad it was helpful for you! 😊

You're welcome! If you have the budget it's worth trying out (as I'm using water soluble oils which can have a slightly different texture for the first layer than regular oils), so depending on how you paint you may find the W&N paper fine. The tearing easily is still a thing when you remove the tape, I've found the same thing to some extent with the SMLT brand of canvas paper (which is lovely to paint onto), you have to be super careful when peeling up your tape. I've also been recently experimenting with gessoed canvas (and adding more gesso as well, and different types of gesso), as you don't actually need to stretch canvas to paint on it. You just can't stretch it after you paint on it, but I would mount my paintings flat to wood panels and not stretcher frames so it's fine. I've also done a few little experiments with oil-primed linen samples I got, man that stuff is nice but it's so hard getting in Canada without spending an absolute fortune on a metre or more of oil-primed canvas (we can't easily get the oil-primed canvas pads like Centurion that you can easily get in the US). If you'd like another tutorial about those tests I've been doing, just let me know. 😊

You're very welcome! 😊

I'm Canadian as well (Victoria), you're very welcome ehhhhh 😊🇨🇦

Glad it was helpful! 😊

I'm not sure what you mean by magic paper, but water soluble pens, Frixion pens, mechanical pencil and/or fine permanent ink pen will work (for anything permanent you just have to make sure you fully cover your lines). But sometimes Frixion pens or water soluble pens can have the issue of the lines reappearing later after they've been erased, particularly if the item gets cold (such as being shipped in luggage in the hold of an aircraft). To prevent any potential issues, it's recommended to gently wash your project after erasing the lines, and before finishing off the back of your hoop. 😊

I meant if you need to erase the lines around the outer edge (because sometimes framing won't fully cover the edge, or if the pattern isn't a full coverage one). In the video description I do link a newer tutorial about stitching in grid lines with fishing line (or anything that won't stain the fabric or be pierced by the needle), that's far easier to deal with in the end as you just pull the grid lines out. And then you don't risk pencil or whatever staining lighter colour floss. 😊

You can do that, but the darker grid lines in most cross stitch patterns are grids of 10. So if you were looking at grids of 10 on your pattern but grids of 14 on your fabric, that'd be really easy to screw up at some point. 😊

You're very welcome! 😊

You could, or just buy a real floss colour chart, which is what I ended up doing after I made this video. 😊Plus that'd get really expensive with I think almost 500 colours in their range now. 😳

Yep, it's all about what will work best for you (and you may find yourself switching in the middle of a project depending on where the stitches you're working on are). 😊

Glad it helped! ☺

You can do that, or use a small knot -- knots are fine to use, you just have to be aware they're there so you don't get your needle caught up in them when you're going back through the same hole. 😊

No worries, hope you managed to sort it out! 😊

You're welcome Jan! 😊

Not quite sure what you mean, but yes, use a permanent marker or the numbers will wipe off too easily when you handle the bobbins. 😊

@@peacockandfig I have a permanent marker. But it clear on plastic DMC card with water. I think there is different type of markers, and we have to be carrefully because it could erase DMC number.

yeah it's not permanent if it can be erased with water, Sharpies are usually pretty good at staying on plastic for a long time (it can eventually rub off though, so you'd need to touch it up at some point depending on how often you're handling certain bobbins). 😊

@@peacockandfig ok thanks :)

Glad you enjoyed it Sally 😊

You're welcome! 😊

You're so welcome, happy stitching! ❤

@@peacockandfig Thanks again, but I found out that DMC 762 is pearl grey and yellow is DMC 726. Maybe they changed after you put out this video? Glad you're still getting responses to your video!

Yeah it's very possible the colour numbers changed, every now and then that happens for whatever reason. 😊

@@peacockandfig Wow--so nice to hear from you again! Perfect timing as well because I was looking for my next project and finally have time to do this! Take care 🙂

Glad it was helpful! 😊

so watch it again then. 😊 Lots of people are fine with it, and to be honest this is a free tutorial. You’re going to make mistakes when trying out a new technique, so consider it a lesson in how to fix your mistakes. Refilming wasn’t an option for me - sorry you found it confusing, but at least I did it and it does work out in the end. Just give it a try.

Unfortunately with filming and keeping everything at a distance that could be captured by the camera (and not have my hands knock into the camera), demonstrating the smaller eyed needles would have been impossible which is why I didn't do it. Glad it was helpful anyway. 😊

Yes I know crewel embroidery traditionally is done with wool, but many designers also do use other threads (like DMC and other specialty threads) as they are much more accessible to stitchers around the world than the traditional wool threads. 😊

So glad it's all helpful for you Theresa! 😊

You'll have to give it a go, I often alternate between the two methods (and I pay zero attention to what the back looks like, it's not important at all, I even have a whole tutorial just on that). 😊

@peacockandfig it's not important as a relaxing hobby, i agree. And for things i make for myself i dont pay attention. It's important when you enter it in the fair or put it to market though. That's why I asked.

that’s called confetti stitches, and you don’t. You’d stitch one stitch at a time, this method is for blocks of colour. 😊

Inappropriate?? Alrighty then, so clearly I'm not entitled to my opinion after years of working with both systems, on my channel. And that's an odd thing to get upset about on a free stitching tutorial that's years old, but you have a good day.

Sorry? Fractals have nothing to do with fractional stitches, my guess is you'll have to find someone who has a pattern of a fractal sunflower and just follow the pattern. 😊

You're so welcome Jackie! 😊

Honestly, that one's still awesome, the patterns are so intricate so to me it'd be worth it. I don't remember how many patterns total are in it, but say it's 10, that's only about $4.40 per pattern (which is far less than you'd pay for the patterns individually). You could always see if it's available on her site and see what shipping would be, I'm guessing with the shipping from South Africa it'd be more than buying it on Amazon. Or check her site out and see if she sells any of the patterns (like Pertinacity) as a kit with all the floss and pattern included. You'll still pay for shipping, but for a project that will likely take you over a hundred hours to stitch, that's pennies per hour of entertainment (plus learning all those amazing stitches). 😊❤️

Awesome, I'm so glad you enjoyed the book! And yeah, libraries are a wonderful resource. ❤️

Most people don't know the names, or even that there are two "methods" to forming a stitch. 😊

You need to use something called waste canvas to keep your stitches even. I don't have tutorials on that, but lots of other people do. 😊

Glad it helped! 😊

They do, don't they? Cute little roses. ❤

Not true at all. 😊Some people find it more relaxing (or have ADHD or other mental health issues) that mean gridding actually makes it a fun relaxing hobby, and not one where they're fighting to remember where they are or constanly making mistakes they have to rip out. Or they get distracted a lot in their home environment, or can only pick up their projects sporadically, meaning it's easier to lose track of where you are in the pattern. Or they're working on a massive pattern with a ton of confetti, and gridding makes it easier to see where random stitches of various colours are. There is no right or wrong way to do any craft, including cross stitch, just how you find works best for you. If you don't grid, great, but many do. 😊

Awesome! 😁

Awesome, glad to hear it! 😊

Glad you enjoyed the turorial Caryn! This project ended up great, MacStitch did a great job turning my art into this pattern. I will warn you about pic2pat, it's pretty notorious for having quite awful colour rendering, aka the contrast for a grayscale work will look fine in the pattern but will stitch up pretty bleh with everything being midtones or too dark. Free software is not great for colour conversions, it really does take a loooot of work to accurately render colour from imported images to how it actually will stitch. Every pic2pat conversion I've seen stitched looks like it's in a grey fog, everything is muted and to be frank, really sad looking, there's no contrast or vibrancy (and it's certainly not accurate to the original). So please do keep that in mind when using free software, how something stitches can end up wildly different than how the generated pattern looks. ❤

@@peacockandfig I hear you. I am new to crosstitch and I love making my own patterns no matter what art or craft I am doing. I may invest in more professional software in the future. Thank you for your insight.

You are so welcome, glad it helped! ❤️

So glad it was helpful! 😊

Hi there! I'm not quite sure what you're asking -- how I'm stitching both knots anchors them in place. You can finish your threads off however you like, whether that's via a small knot at the back, a pin stitch, running your thread a few times under other stitches nearby (full crosses, the knots won't have enough thread at the back), etc. 😊

.... or you could use the basic math skills we all learned in school which is so much faster than jumping online, which may or may not be possible depending on where you are, if you randomly see some fabric while out shopping and aren't sure if it'll fit a project you want to do (or vice versa), etc. 😊

Hi Charissia! It won't stretch the holes unless you use crazy thick line (or pull it really tight when turning corners with your grid lines). And yes, you can pull it out really easily, that's the advantage of using something slippery like nylon thread (fishing line) or metallic thread that can't be pierced. 😊

That's two half stitches. Quarter stitches will usually be indicated like four tick marks (of whichever colour) coming in from each corner to the centre of the "block". I don't know why they'd do that in the same colour, that's weird the designer won't give you any details.

Awesome, glad the video helped! I've never actually used Pattern Keeper or worried too much about compatibility as the technology was constantly changing when I first started using this software. Glad it's going to work for your needs! 😊

☺