I'm going to answer my own question, in case anyone else has questions about sticky dials. I cracked the safe, but it wasn't as straightforward as the tutorial shows, in part because my dial was so sticky it could be hard to feel the contact point. What I ended up doing was very quickly moving the dial over the contact point so that I could feel and hear the metal on metal. Then I coaxed the dial to just that point where there was a hard stop. It was delicate work and took practice. The gate on my wheel 3 was also shadowed by wheel two and it took me a while to get wheel 2 positioned such that I could feel the gate on wheel 3.

There are very few scenarios in which a burglar will be trying to crack a safe with this method and it means there are many other shortcomings with your security as a whole. It's similar to lock picking in the sense that the vast majority of burglar's are quick fast and very destructive. The safe you have in your house will be more likely to be axed into or broken open with tools then manipulated

Yes, I just used a Dremel to grind a key down

Do you mean the lever he’s pushing on to retract the bolt? That’s a re-locker mechanism, on lesser grade locks it’s literally a spring made out of a paper clip. It’s supposed to always have pressure on it from the back of the lock pressing on the lever so it can allow the bolt to come back. This is a last resort mechanism for the lock should the criminal attempt to rip the dial off and punch through the lock. No back of the lock body means no pressure on the relocker, which means no retract for the criminal without tools, or worse, require finding a drill point to destroy the linkage in the door.

Take off the back cover so you can see the wheels. Turn left until all are moving together and stop when the gate of the first wheel (deepest in the lock) is aligned under the fence. The number on the dial is the 1st number in the combo. Turn right 2 rotations and then you should see the 2nd wheel start to move and stop it when its gate is under the fence. That's the 2nd number. Then turn left 1 rotation and keep going until the gate of wheel 3 is aligned under the fence. That's the 3rd number. Then turn right to the contact area. If the nose doesn't drop in then you were off a bit. You can look through the gates and see which wheel was off and in which direction. Add or minus 1 from the number for that wheel and try again. It can be hard to see exactly when the gates are under the fence so you'll probably be wrong the first time.

Mosler is most likely group 2 but it's not guaranteed. You can tell by spinning the dial. If it has a lot of clicking and decent resistance to turning at certain points then it won't work.