Hi. Looking at that boat, I suggested walking away or using it to learn. Happy you did what you did and yes, some boats just haven't got in them, what's needed for that new boat finish, sadly. You can however, sometimes make them look really, really good. Thanks and don't forget, there's hundreds of videos. Imagine what pearls of wisdom might be left to uncover.. Lee

@@Local_Boydidgood thanks again Lee you’re the best

Hi. Congrats on the boat purchase. In the EU, Menzerna has a marine line. Getting all the oxidation out is the 1st step. A good compound and wool pad will help there. Then a cleaning and then, look for Flagship by Meguiar’s or any of the waxes I list in the description. Also, the 1st boat I ever waxed, probably faded out quickly too. It's ok to drop balls when learning to juggle. The trick is to not stop trying. I'm here if you get stuck. Cheers, Lee

⁠Thanks Lee. I probably went a bit light on the compounding as i was concerned about burning through or damaging it. Have removed some decals on the maxum also so seeing what you did with this boat was great. Enjoying the detailing and learning a new skill - Mrs H already thinks i’m obsessed. Shes right!

Wait till you buy the 3rd boat. By then, you'll be a lifer but with luck, the Mrs. too. Gelcoat is 10-20 times as thick as paint. If you're pushing a little, no worries. Just don't sit in one spot for too long doing so. It's a skill, practice is the only answer. Lee

Werd!

Menzerna! German and great! I'm not sure what the name of the product is. I know they have some good products. They have a marine line of products now. Danke for your time and saying hello. Lee

Well, in my younger days, less and now, more. Somewhere between 1 full, hard day or 4 lazy walk in the park days.

@@Local_Boydidgood I appreciate the comment on such an older video, thank you. I just wanted to compare my self to your time as you don’t do any wet sanding. Personally I only do a light wet sanding on ghosting from stickers, and if oxidation is really bad by hand to control it. Otherwise I agree with you on that there is no need, and it takes the same amount of time if not little bit less with just buffing. The finish is the same as well. I know this is a lot of text but, I’m trying to learn as much as possible, what the solution to really deep oxidation, to the point where it gets gloss just discolored?

More grinding.. More sanding. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hIrHgpWsobmDo6Mfeature=shared I'll sand bad stuff too but like you said, why the whole boat if it isn't necessary. Anytime. Old vid, new vid, if I see a question, I try to answer it. Lee

Hi. As long as it's gelcoat, this works. I honestly don't even know what Simonize is although I've heard the word for decades.. You're welcome. Lee

Spasiba. 👍🏼

No problems, use your weaker compound after the heavy one and inspect after the cleaning of the compound oils. Wax and enjoy! Thanks. Lee

2 days and enough but turns out, he didn't ask for a detail. The shop owner messed up and paid me a bit for my trouble.

Well, that's a great message to start my day. Thanks! Hope you plan on doing this next year and if you like it then, try Fire Glaze and really save some money/time. Lee

Hi. Yes. The same pad for the compounding. I might use one side for Super-Duťy and the other to hold Heavy Cut and Perfect-it ex ac (spurring/cleaning between the 2 if needed) Go slow. Especially on interior areas of a boat. Speed really is dangerous and I just do it to impress Simon and Drake (🤣) Go slow, it works fine and almost exactly as quickly. Here's my suggestions (without being there so, grain of salt this stuff) Use more product so it doesn't dry up so fast? Keep a spray bottle with water in it and spritz the pad or area once or twice as you go? Don't do white unless you have good light. I think you'll find that at night or in a garage with a few flood lights you can position in the boat as you work, will give you the "feedback" you're looking for. You'll be able to see what you're able to generate as far as a shine goes. You can then, move a light to give you the best kind of light, from the right angle to see everything. Easier than using (chasing) the sun. If you have to sand gelcoat, I'm honestly not against that. I just want people to know that there are alternatives and that never having sanded a boat, I know that compounds works. I appreciate the positivity. Hope you have better success now. Part of it is the 3M wool pads. They're the best (most expensive and some are wobbly and need to be returned before use) but overall, the best. The compound drying out: I've worked with the 3M stuff for so long, I'm used to how much for an area and it's rare that I use too much or too little but while learning, this won't be the case with anyone so you're fine there. The product will usually stay wet longer and workable if you avoid some things: Don't go fast. Don't be running flat and lift up on an edge of the pad. Don't go over an edge of the boat to the point where it (the corner or edge) acts like a spur and removes material from your pad. Don't try to do more of an area than you can effectively manage while keeping all the compound you've spread, moving and breaking down evenly as you buff, don't apply compound and not work it evenly, try to remove all the compound you applied when finished with a pass, no residue should be left that doesn't easily wipe off with a microfiber towel. This all takes time to get down. Don't get worried. See better, you'll do better and learn more. It won't be such a frustrating guessing game. Good luck, thanks for saying hi. I hope some of this helps. Lee

@@Local_Boydidgood Thanks for the reply and the tips! I'll give one of the 3M pads a try and see how it works out. I've been running the Dewalt on 600 so I'll continue to keep it slow. I feel like I'm using a ton of product but like the water idea and will give that a try and see if it helps. I quickly found out that the white was going to be a little more challenging to work with. Next time I'll setup some lights and see how that goes. Not sure I want to chance working outside in the evening in FL with the mosquitos. 😅 I did accidentally 'spur' the pad with the bottom edge of the boat while working around a trailer fender, definitely surprised me. Thanks again for the suggestions and look forward to the next upload!

I'm glad you haven't given up. I'm sorry about the blood sucker's. Damn them! Slow works. If you need, 800 can make it seem like you're doing more because of the sound and it feels/sounds good. See if that helps on larger areas. White is a challenge, always. It's why most people just go for a gloss and not a wet paint look. It's very difficult without being able to see everything. My best to your efforts and thanks again for say'n hi. Lee

I hate mosquitoes!

Hi. Without trying to be rude, or give you a full class in a comment section: I have like 300 vids, while there, you'll learn what you're looking for.

You can add some Perfect-it..? Warm it up? They (3M) added a different carrier or lubricant to Heavy Cut a few years ago and now, they use water. It doesn't allow the molecules to "slip-n-slide" as easily as say the petrochemical stuff they used prior. The emulsifiers used to stabilize the mix and keep the water from seperating, adds to the gummy, gel-like cosistancy. It still works but it isn't as awesome as it used to be by a tiny fraction of a point for this fact. Like I said, they hate us.. 😂 Lee

👍🇺🇸

Anytime.

One bottle of heavy cut and perhaps a Perfect-it ex ac should be all or more than you'll need. You'll be able to do another 3-4 boats the same size so you'll be set for the next few times you buff her out. Try Flagship 1st. If you like what you did, next year do it again and use fireGlaze. Wash/syrip/clean soap and water, alcohol, vinagar, window cleaner.. A painting prep "stripper" to get rid of the oils left by compound. Watch more than this one video of mine, I have many to randomly waste a few hours. Read a description and get started when you feel ready. Good luck, Lee

@@Local_Boydidgood I just found the video where you use CMX and also the Frieglaze video. Thanks for all you do. By the way, do you know anyone in the Kansas City area that does your process? I'm not sure if my shoulder can handle doing a whole boat but I may give it a try.

I do actually but he's pretty busy. You can do this, just pick sections to do in a day that won't break you. I'm 51, 140 pounds. If I can do it, almost anyone can. Nobody needs to finish a whole boat in a day. It's a boat not life-saving medicine or research. Grab some beers and a friend or two, make a game of it. "OK now you try." kind of thing. Think Tom Sawyer and Huck Finn and the white picket fence scene in the book. Fire Glaze is for a perfect (no oxidation at all) surface. Flagship for when you're not sure. Good luck.

Learning a new way to do anything by the masses takes time it seems. Like 30 years at least. It doesn't help that 3M is dragging ass getting the word out or helping to at all really. I'm not a fan of their efforts or attention. That was a fun comment to read, thanks. Well, I guess I'll keep trying to make bigger and bigger waves. In the meantime, beers to you! Lee

Damn! I smiled reading this. It feels good to know I reach some folks. It feels great to hear stuff like this, thanks for the positive vibes! Lee

Cool to hear. Thanks. By the way, are you in Queensland? I might have met a girl in that corner of the country, it'd be nice to have some work nearby (as a permitted visitor, no violations) I appreciate the comment. Cheers! Lee

Then, you didn't do what I did, with what I did. In 3 days!? Lol In fact, with just a spray of a "quick detailer" every few months, this lasted for almost 3 years. Imagine; I see Tiger Woods and I buy all his equipment, down to his shoes and hat. I go try it but when I can't shoot anywhere near Par, I tell thousands of people(on youtube), that none of " IT " worked. I'd look kind of silly wouldn't I? Try harder. Lee

Yeah you silly goose

I mean.. 😂

600-800 rpm. Stay slow until you're super confident in your buffing and then up a little, if you need it but in reality, you don't. Slow works.

kzbin.info/www/bejne/oaqQonuPr6-fpZY This should help.

Hi. My speed is due to 2 decades of running a buffer. I don't suggest you or anyone new to this ever goes above 800 rpm. It's dangerous and can ruin a finish. It's my ego showing off to the "youtube experts" who would never try it. Go slow, it works and takes about the same amount of time. I've done videos showing this. Go slow and be careful around fittings, cables and your face😁. You don't need heat, it's a myth. You aren't doing more by going faster, really. There's a slight benefit but a fast buffer can hurt stuff, quickly if you aren't proficient with one. Sorry, not the answers you were looking for but it's the truth. My crew ran 7 buffers at below 800 rpm for 15 years.. It works just fine. Lee

I have personally seen people with a fast spinning buffer burn the gelcoat, eat decals, break their fingers, destroy a power cord, vhf antenna, satellite dish mounts, knock out a 6'4" footballer when it yo-yo'd up his (over the shoulder) cord, huge mistake. Swirls at a slow speed can be fixed rather easily and quickly as you adjust what you're doing and watching the results manifest before your eyes (bright light is key. Bright like the sun not a shop light on a stand) Fast comes with a balance between the pad, buffer and the person holding/guiding the other two. If you can call out squaredance maneuvering in rhythm, free-style rap or juggle a few different objects at once, speed up a bit when you feel like it but I only see a speed difference benefit when on an edge that's very oxidized or a huge flat panel on a yacht that 3 people are grinding on. There's reasons on the flat I won't go into but specific to acreage of gelcoat so let's go to edges. On a badly oxidized edge, going fast will shine up that spot quicker. It'll also heat it up really quick and so there's a literal second that a detailer has, to decide; "Is it about to melt /burn/turn brown-yellow?" a second and a half, maybe. I've burned 2 boats' gelcoat. Once because I was an idiot and the second one was just the nature of the beast (removing oxidized gunk) If going slow however, you aren't tossing expensive products all over your face and hands like some on the 'tubes' might. You also won't burn the edge of anything, catch anything that violently reacts or causes the buffer to react. I once had my wrist whipped with a steel antenna that my buffer broke free after winding up the spindle of the buffer. Then it broke as I was holding onto the boat with one hand and buffing with the other. I couldn't shut it down for a moment. That left some marks and an education. I made this video and others like it but perhaps I need to make it more prevalent in my discourse to the viewers. Walk, hop jog run backwards, crabwalk, then run, if you feel you need to but not from day 1 please. Lee

A friend of mine just bought a solid little Cobalt with a trailer because the detail would have been over $3k.. The owner sold him the boat for $3k. He spun it around and sold the boat for $12k last month.. A world of difference on the resale market. Ask anyone who's had plastic surgery. Their value went up for a moment too. It's a thing. A shiny boat will always sell before a dull one. Nobody respects the dull one. Good point. Ler

Check out the description.. Check out another of my vids? I'm generally a very, "show your work" kind of guy. If I used it, I generally tell people how. Scroll through my library, find one over an hr long; it'll show way too much. Bring snacks. Sorry this one was confusing. Lee

Wait a minute.. There's a female watching these!? You're one out of 3, youtube tells me about and I never believe until proven true. Sorry, for me it's like seeing Bigfoot or Nessie. When I'm racing weather or a schedule, I film less than I'd like.. When the boat gets started and stopped due a schedule or product issue and then picked up again, I lose motivation to remember what I'd shown/haven't. At some point, I just document what I generally did so it doesn't look like I just used magic instead of the actual work. I get lazy sometimes😖 The angry boats take most of my focus and I video as a secondary goal. Sometimes the camera feels like a ankle bracelet worn by convicts more than a camera. I'm not the best. Lee

This would be for the flat interior and exterior hull surface ,, not contour areas

No! Foam can't take heat or speed! Slow, flat and smooth. The job of foam is to reduce any irregularities left from a wool pad and to get some sharp reflections near fittings and snaps. It will heighten the gloss and the smoothness of the surface and will remove most "swirl/hologram marks". Go slow.

Thank you 👍🇺🇸

Anytime

You'll try to stay flat the entire time. Uniformity is the goal with Foam. No edging, cross-cutting, just spreading and finishing. It's a step most don't do but you'll appreciate it. If you liked the change from Heavy Cut to Perfect-it ex ac on a wool pad, it's that kind of difference from wool to foam. When done, it shouldn't at all, look like a machine was used (no telltale signs of a buffer)

Well good luck sir. There's a bit more to it than I show in just this vid however I have 300 more so please sit a spell, grab a well-earned beer or two and just get a feel for this, then try. Hat is off to you finding the time. Lee

@@Local_Boydidgood thanks Lee!! I will👍🏼

Cheers!

I like total boat, stark seems to be very powdery when working and I don't like that aspect. I've been at this for almost 20 years, I've tried almost everything else, 3M is consistent and repeatable. Expensive and not available worldwide sure but it works and I can trust it. Glad we both hate snaps and ugly spots on boats! Lee

Please watch any of my more recent vids. I'm not anti-sanding just, not everyone needs it and it's way too common. Lee

Hi. My speed is due to 2 decades of running a buffer. I don't suggest you or anyone new to this ever goes above 800 rpm. It's dangerous and can ruin a finish. It's my ego showing off to the "youtube experts" who would never try it. Go slow, it works and takes about the same amount of time. I've done videos showing this. Go slow and be careful around fittings, cables and your face😁. You don't need heat, it's a myth. You aren't doing more by going faster, really. There's a slight benefit but a fast buffer can hurt stuff, quickly if you aren't proficient with one. Sorry, not the answers you were looking for but it's the truth. My crew ran 7 buffers at below 800 rpm for 15 years.. It works just fine. Lee

kzbin.info/www/bejne/oaqQonuPr6-fpZY This should help confirm what I said. Hope it helps. I have personally seen people with a fast spinning buffer burn the gelcoat, eat decals, break their fingers, destroy a power cord, vhf antenna, satellite dish mounts, knock out a 6'4" footballer when it yo-yo'd up his (over the shoulder) cord, huge mistake. Swirls at a slow speed can be fixed rather easily and quickly as you adjust what you're doing and watching the results manifest before your eyes (bright light is key. Bright like the sun not a shop light on a stand) Fast comes with a balance between the pad, buffer and the person holding/guiding the other two. If you can call out squaredance maneuvering in rhythm, free-style rap or juggle a few different objects at once, speed up a bit when you feel like it but I only see a speed difference benefit when on an edge that's very oxidized or a huge flat panel on a yacht that 3 people are grinding on. There's reasons on the flat I won't go into but specific to acreage of gelcoat so let's go to edges. On a badly oxidized edge, going fast will shine up that spot quicker. It'll also heat it up really quick and so there's a literal second that a detailer has, to decide; "Is it about to melt /burn/turn brown-yellow?" a second and a half, maybe. I've burned 2 boats' gelcoat. Once because I was an idiot and the second one was just the nature of the beast (removing oxidized gunk) If going slow however, you aren't tossing expensive products all over your face and hands like some on the 'tubes' might. You also won't burn the edge of anything, catch anything that violently reacts or causes the buffer to react. I once had my wrist whipped with a steel antenna that my buffer broke free after winding up the spindle of the buffer. Then it broke as I was holding onto the boat with one hand and buffing with the other. I couldn't shut it down for a moment. That left some marks and an education. I made this video and others like it but perhaps I need to make it more prevalent in my discourse to the viewers. Walk, hop jog run backwards, crabwalk, then run, if you feel you need to but not from day 1 please. Lee

@@Local_Boydidgood Thanks so much for getting back to me so quick. I have an older cobalt 2006 and I just enjoy buffing my own boat. There’s satisfaction doing it yourself. I love your videos and seeing the great work you do, you make it look so easy. I use a dewalt rotary so I’ll definitely keep it no more than 800rpm. Keep up the great work and videos, there’s always people watching them although they might not subscribe or like your video. Cheers!

I'm pretty thick skinned, I'll be OK. Thanks and good luck!

I appreciate the kind words. I'm still here, haters and all. No retreat, no surrender! Lee

Ha, while she's a familiar shape and color combo, no. They bought it from Seattle last year and this was her maiden grind. It's a '17 and was kept under the covor for the lifetime of the boat. It showed. If I did, they left the cover on, most of the time since, for about a season and a half with Flagship. The top looked good. My guess is that whomever detailed it last (if recent) used an oily compound and just waxed after a wiped own. It'll look black for a while, like oil on a flat paint makes it darker or paper translucent. There wasn't much in the way of a swirl prior to me seeing her. Who knows. Now you've got me digging through old videos looking for reg numbers. Lee

@@Local_Boydidgood it did look familiar! I noticed the lack of swirls as well so I wasn’t sure if a previous detailer or you had touched the topside. As always love the responses

Well, the last one to wax it didn't do a bad job but they covered up a bunch in the hull. Anytime. Lee

I admit, sanding this would have worked. How long would that have taken to finish? At what cost? I'm honestly asking because according to what I've seen in almost 20 years of this, my way is better on a few levels. I've waited to see that ("just sand it and save time") . I'm still waiting for someone to prove it can be done quicker, cheaper and last longer. Let me know when ya'll find that or if you know someone good, send them my way. You'll note that I always say, someone good at sanding is amazing. Most aren't, most learn from them (the bad ones).. Same in buffing. I put my stuff out there so if someone wants to avoid learning a skilled craft, and instead wants to buy a buffer and not destroy their boat or waste a month, they can. I also put it out to see if someone can prove me wrong and not just say a thing.. I get lots of comments but no links to a video or website with a video.. (a video of a used boat that gets sanded, waxed and put outside for 3 years) beat me on any level: price, time, ease to learn, efficiency of products, longevity. You'll sand flatter than a wool pad can buff but in oxidation left behind/returning, it'll be a tie with the same polish/wax. So where are we if I'm right? Hell, I'm from the 70's. A ton has changed over the years. Odd that paint correction can have updates welcomed but heaven forbid it happens in gelcoat correction. Never stop learning; my door is open. Ego and work; when you got it, flaunt it. Peaces, Lee

Not many people want to post a video about what they do everyday. It’s not a super common trade, and where it is (ex. Florida) it’s usually employees doing the work and not caring about putting a video out. Guys Wetsand boats everyday all over the world including myself. Just not interested in putting a video out. But try it properly, get a good DA sander and some Mirka Abralon and do a boat like that. Much easier than to go over the boat 3-4 times and have sub par results like that. It should be perfect and oxidation gone with your first buffing step. Keep up the good work!

I've been on youtube for over a decade, no takers. Think you're the 1st to say, any of that? Being honest, you're giving all sorts of excuses and outs. I didn't once say, make a vid a day. I just ask anyone to find a chalky old boat like one I've done and just do the one. Or come here and show me. If you've got (and I'm not saying you have) something to prove, great. Show me. If you and your fellow masters do this all day, surely it would be so easy to demo this on a boat, snap a short vid and show me it's quicker or anything people really care about. Then try and remember to snap another where you wait a few years to show me the results of the shine. Either one would be awesome. I'm never Wetsanding a boat and don't see the point 98% of the time. This works in Florida my man, ask Mystic boats. I'll wait for the vid and will repost it if I'm wrong, gladly. Lee

As long as someone out there's crazy enough to like it, I'm happy to keep going. Thanks! Lee

I'm not too exciting, but I can see your point. I've been better since. Lee

Best on gelcoat boats, not painted!) In a boat yard or with a good way to catch all the 'yuck'.. Spray on some oven cleaner. Don't let it dry, either keep spraying it, keep it in shade or spritz it lightly with water. With a water hose and a nozzle, see how much comes off with just water pressure after 5-10 minutes.. If the name is still there, scrub with a rag, reapply the oven cleaner and repeat. Rinse well. Let dry. Or, sand it off.

@@Local_Boydidgood thanks Lee really appreciate your info

Fa sho!

Finesse-it (on gelcoat) does suck. Perfect-it ex ac however is awesome. I'm sorry you waste your time with whatever you used. Probably used a bad pad too. Since you're the expert, what's better smh-guy?

Over 30 years of doing this and any 3M product is garbage. THAT is the waste of time. Sorry you haven't figured it out yet

Wow, you're really helpful. What DO YOU USE THAT'S BETTER? My assumption is, you were never trained on how to use it (3M compounds). So, for 30 years, you've failed your 3M compounds, not the other way around. It's very common but I've seen it for 20 successful years, doing things with 3M compounds I don't see anyone else doing. Is it because I'm special or did I just figure it out unlike most who try this? I just got lucky and for almost 20 years, I've been showing others just how easy and moron-proof this is. Watch a few more of my vids and see if you can do better/faster work. Let me know what your secret is because in my experience (and yes, I've tried just about every compound available) nothing I've found, is better than 3M for consistency, effectiveness or predictable results. Obviously like with my crew, you did like 200 boats a year (average length 45') for 15 years so you would know what efficient use of time and products because you made a profit right? I assume you've got some secret you've been hiding... I'll be excited to lean about. I'll ask a third time and give you an opportunity to lay down some truth; what works for you then? What's better? I'm curious what you learned in 30 years of this, that actually works or if I'm right and you failed, just like most boat detailers, to use the products the right way. I'll be waiting for the revelation you bless us with. Lee

Crickets.. Typical.

Still nothing. Surprise.

I understand, they look cool. As long as you're willing to pay for the extra 2 hours per side (minimum) I'd be happy to put them back on but it is a silly design flaw, a Cobalt thing or not. I suppose it's why they went away from it in later models, even before the sale of Cobalt in '14..'17? So, have dollars, will travel but I don't see many Cobalts with this type of emblem set, where it isn't the ugliest part of the hull 3 months after it was "waxed". Options for both sides is all I'm saying. I will always hate working around them and Chaparral emblems are no better (just more rare here). They look cool, also a pain in the ass. Lee

This year..

@@Local_Boydidgood thanks Lee looking forward to it

Me too. Just needed to be sure before I put my name on it. I'm liking what we've seen so far. Probably after the Summer peak. I'll have more time. Lee

Everything I can fix I note, things I can't I take pictures but try. You're asking for a class, I have 300+ videos so I don't have to give one in the comments section, sorry. I'm working. Lee

Thank you so much for your time. I really appreciate it and your comment.

Hope you understand. Thanks.

kzbin.info/www/bejne/g2jQZGBse8mDl6M

@@Local_Boydidgood yes I understand and thank you again for your time and your info

You can request the MSDS on the product from the manufacturer. I doubt they'll explain exactly how it lasts so long but it's a consumer right, to know. I'd ask if curious. I'd also ask them what they suggest to use. I've been guessing the whole time. Lee

Any. I mean, any polymer-based spray, no carnauba wax!

Thanks, Lee

Anytime

I assumed you might get what you needed in a better way by seeing it. Sometimes I play for the camera and do 3 steps in one spot before moving on but it's less efficient than just running front to back with one product/technique then switching to the next one and so on. Not shutting off the camera while all 3-6 steps are being performed, allows people to see a little more of what I see and how I think when looking at the surface afterwards. In most cases, I pick sections to hit at a time and there, I'll use 1 product and then the next while not doing the whole boat, just that section but then never touching it again from the last time I touched it. Otherwise, I do an entire top-side or hull-side with whatever is needed then whatever is needed next. It all, ALL depends on the boat and how much time I have in the light I need. A hard question to answer I'm afraid. Lee

Et tu Brutus? Never! It just isn't paying me... It waits till "work" allows. Storms have plagued us this Spring so, as an example, today, I buy supplies after sleeping in till 10 am 😁 It's coming.. You'll enjoy. Lee

Sounds good. We were getting worried.

There's a "we"?

Me myself and I

That qualifies. I have a bit to go on the test boat but have done 2 since and half of another in the time. Memorial day or whatever boat emergency has me doing customer boats 1st. It'll be here..

Hi. I've never had anyone ask me to sand a boat but living in the Pacific Northwest, I don't know anyone who sands a boat anymore. Part of being a detailer is educating the customer. Show them a demo spot, compound it and polish it as normal. Let them see how long it lasts and they can come back next year. No matter how well a boat is sanded, unless the detailer used a good marine wax (not one for car paint and not a cleaner wax) no matter how smooth it's sanded, it'll fail when the "wax" does. So I honestly don't know why sanding is still a thing. Most sanders use carnauba wax when done, which lasts weeks in heat and months in overcast weather (Seattle) but that's it.. How is that better? As to patchwork on hulls.. There's nothing you can do but polish what's there, you aren't there to resurface the boat just to shine it. Almost all hulls have some damage, like car bumpers do. If the repair was bad, you'll see it. Just shine it up and move on. Try to clean the surface of any stains prior to applying wax and sometimes if it's a rust or waterline stain, when the gelcoat is dull, chemicals to remove stains, stick better and stay where you want them as opposed to when it's smooth and glossy from compounding. As to the checklist.. Document every bad thing you see on a boat before ever touching it (video/camera) fix what you can, ignore what you can't but let the customer know what you saw and offer ways they can have someone fix it properly next time. I can only say that a detailer who cares is worth more than 10 who don't and many don't. Get on the Google machine and start researching. I'll keep showing what I do but I am not about to teach an entire class on how to be a detailer, that comes from you and your experiences. Like I said before, I don't get the request to sand. I just do my thing and grow as people learn. Tell people that we were sanding boats when we landed on the moon. Ask them if they know of any other skill or trade that's the same today as it was then. They've all adapted, boat detailers were late but there's science now and chemicals... Things have changed. Back when we landed on the moon, doctors were still recommending which cigarettes to buy... Tell these troglidites that the past is dead and if they want your skills, they have to accept that. Or something. Lee

@@Local_Boydidgood haley thanks again really want to thank you for all the information you gave me. I know it’s time-consuming but well worth it thank you so much and love what you’ve been saying all along and will stick to the plan and make things work and I have been doing a lot of research lately, so that’s why I was asking this particular question about sending. Thanks again. All the best

Sometimes, you actually have to show people what you're capable of even if they're not paying you. Now you don't have to do this a lot but it is sometimes necessary in order to get people over the hump. Good luck and as a last ditch effort, consider moving to the Pacific northwest.

@@Local_Boydidgood it’s interesting. You say that to do something for nothing showing what you capable of I’ve done that many times and it’s gotten me some work mostly in cars but the last ones I did for jet skis I did two for the price of one and now I’ve got two boats to do so I was a good thought. Thank you Lee. You’re a good man. Take care.

If you plant seeds well, harvesting later can be a joy. People need to "see" what's possible before they can desire a thing. We all want a shiny boat/car but until we see a "detailed" (boat/car like ours) we just assume it's all hype, not worth the money. Boating is ego (unless fishing or shipping people or cargo professionally) so showing a mirror to the marina, generally catches the attention of others who seek you out. That's how it starts anyways. Keep making smiles. Lee

Hi, thanks. Many questions indeed. Go slow, I'm good, you're new. I'll let you watch more of my videos so you can start to see why and how I decide things. Almost all gelcoat is the same, white or colored it oxidizes. Your job is to remind it of how it is supposed to look. I generally do an entire boat hull or topside section in one product, achieving the same results throughout before moving on. What products depends on the boat. Unlike most clearcoats, gelcoat is specific to that exact boat. You live by guidelines not rules. Lee

@@Local_Boydidgood Thanks for Answering Lee. I have watched many of you videos, but came across this one yesterday. Im a little confused, when watching 3M website checking the products you use. They rate Heavy cut as a ruffer abrasive then Super duty. But still you use it in the order Super duty, Heavy Cut and least perfected EX AC?

3M are morons. Don't read their labels.. There are times Super-Duty can finish clean and swirl-free. It's rare. Heavy Cut can usually take out most scratches and stains but sometimes not. If I see it struggling, I switch to Super. Perfect-it ex ac is always last.

@@Local_Boydidgood hehehe Morons 😂. Thanks again 🙏.

Anytime

Jeeez, another one? Look: Doing it wrong "all m(one's)y life" don't make it right. Imagine if you're dead wrong on what you think you saw and what you think the expected lifespan of that finish is. What if all this time, you've just been wasting yours? Don't think stuff changes when new things are observed, studies and applied? Ask any doctor, lawyer or any professional in any field who's kill'n it. They aren't using old stuff. We went to the moon, things have changed. I get, most folks, don't know how compound or a buffer work let alone what gelcoat is and how to deal with it. I created the polisher I'm holding.. Good enough credentials for you? It's possible that you're right or it's possible that you have been perpetuating a myth for 20+ years.. ? Splotchy? You mean the oil on the black hull that hasn't been washed off since the wax was applied and buffed off? (explained in the video and again, I'm done with this) Why would I show it if it was splotchy? I can never catch a "wet paint" sun dot reflection either. They all look like fuzzy dime sized dots with this camera/phone. Pores add to the fuzz. How do you get rid of pores in gelcoat? How do you fill the ones you uncover fresh with sanding? My guess is they fill with dust that mimics a smooth surface even after some stripping medium is used to clean the area. Adding a compound to also require a cleaning then a polish, how do you make things at the surface any different besides "flatter"? You're using your eyes? Your memory? Your expertise in the field under all kinds of conditions? Me too. Odd that you would assume I'm not, insulting actually. I'll tell you what big stuff, this (blue one, 2nd shown) boat's going to sit here virtually untouched as a demo for the shop that I've been "stationed" at for a minute. The last time I did a demo boat like this the shine lasted for almost 3 years outside exposed. If you want to show me that your s*** works better than mine, then do it or shut it. It's that simple. Or, I'll even accept if you find a video of someone doing what I did (demo boat, same basic conditions) and then we can talk. I haven't seen it and I once represented CeramicPro Marine (showed them how to "gelcoat") . Make or find a video showing your boat sitting outside for 3 years and if it lasts for that long I'll come to your shop and buy you a beer, gladly. I'll shake your hand and we'll film you 'learn'n me. Till then, keep sanding and living in the 50's, 60's, 70's...90's the teens............. The moon was '69. We've come a long way. Science happened. Did everyone get fooled by oils? Yes, yes they did. You were right once. That ended in 2011. Hi, I'm Lee. Lee

Crickets as per the norm.. Next!

Hi, Um.. You can usually get Heavy Cut to finish almost to Perfect-it levels. Swirl-Free and a shiny reflection. Adding a mixed product like the "Perfect-it wax polish in my opinion, sets down a flimsy foundation for Flagship. I suppose; see what it looks like with Heavy Cut and if you're happy with your results, just use Flagship. You can also go Heavy Cut, the Perfect-it polish and then Flagship but If you want the best, longest lasting shine, actual Perfect-it ex ac after Heavy Cut, clean/inspect and Flagship would be best. Use what works. I'm not there. It's just a boat, you can always do it again later and try new things. Let whatever wax you apply, be a little thicker than normal and let it sit for a while, to soak in and saturate the gelcoat. It's been dry for a while and will be thirsty. Good luck. Thanks for watching. Tell a friend. Lee

@@Local_Boydidgood Thanks for the quick reply, Lee! I've been stressing out too much since this will be my first attempt at buffing and your vids and this reply are helping a lot--LOL. This time I'm just going with Heavy Cut and the Meguiar's wax and return the Polish and save 60.00-- next year I can adjust and will use ex ac in the future for sure! One last question-- I know I saw it in one of your vids but not sure-- you say after Heavy Cut to "clean/inspect before wax". I know I obviously have to wipe the heavy off with a cloth but did you then use isopropyl alcohol or something like that? Also thanks for the wax tip to leave on a little before removing! Gonna screen-grab your comments.

Use a window cleaner, white vinagar and water, dawn dish soap and water, isopropyl alcohol... Surface prep spray... Remove the oils, make sure you're happy with the surface before applying the wax. Lee

If you're seeing fiberglass strands on a Chris, I'd suspect you've hit the actual fiberglass. Chris crafts never used GRP. (pretty sure) just gelcoat. I could be wrong. You're outside of the ballpark for me there brother, sorry. Lee

Newer CC's are painted over gelcoat. I forgot that part, sorry. You might have seen the white areas as gelcoat and the colored areas as paint. That's typically what I see in the new (thin-walled) Cc's. Also, thank you. Lee

I always compound and then clean/inspect and then wax. Thanks. Good luck. It's just time. Lee

And what wax was used to get protection that lasts 4 years? Is it sold in stores or conjured up with black magic? I just haven't seen it yet. It just tells me that you never learned to use a buffer the right way. Most don't, I wasn't taught either. Glad you found a fix that worked for you. Do get back to me on that 4 year wax though. I'd love to find some. Lee

@Local_Boydidgood I still wash, polish with maguires and wax with Collinite 885 each season but I haven't had to use compound since I wet sanded it. Could be the short season here in NH but oxidation hasn't been a problem since.

Hi. Thanks. I'd say that exposed, the products you mentioned aren't supposed to nor have I ever seen them last that long, more like 3-8 months tops in the best "exposed" conditions. They use a natural wax. Even collinite's is just carnauba wax, a natural product, designed to breakdown in Nature. I've never heard of it lasting past a season unless garaged but even then, the natural wax breaks down. The enzymes in the wax contribute to it breaking down faster than desired for most and since polymers have hit the market, I only suggest caranuba wax for a car at a car show with lots of lights because it looks so good when done right. I'd never put it on a car I drove outside, it just lacks the strength to make the effort of applying it (again and again per year on a car) that I'd rather "Nu Finish 2000" on the paint after it was corrected because it'll last a solid year exposed without too much maintenance. A high-end ceramic would be best but expensive, Fire Glaze after that, polymer-based past that and then a natural wax like Mutan or carnauba Perhaps you aren't exposing the boat to lots of sun (stored under cover, inside or under a shade). At 47°N, we get about the same exposure to the sun here and short seasons too. If exposed but kept clean, Fire Glaze will last up to 3 years as will an Si02 ceramic. They both can be "topped off" to keep the protection going even further. I've seen 5 years with barely any signs of wear or breakdown in Fire Glaze. This was a marina boat with a covered berth so that helped. The owner washed the boat once a month and they would take trips to Alaska. I know it's difficult to hear/believe probably but I'm suggesting these to improve your results. Whatever you're dealing with to get 4 years with carnauba, use a polymer-based, nano-tech or ceramic and see if you've found your new solution. I would. If you want to double your expectations, try Flagship by Meguiar’s. If you want to never wax her again (based on the longevity you seem to find with the carnauba-based stuff) Thanks again for the reply. Lee

Thanks. I get lucky sometimes. Lee