Non

@@ioelriback6173 I don't know, sorry.

C est la partie extérieur qu'il faut pousser, pas la partie où il y a la bille. Tu l'as peut-être cassé. La portée autour de la bille. Déjà vu.

Did what get sorted?

@@the690shed Is the pressure in the video correct?

@@Jaszczur-sp2tx for what model/year? For the 690s up to 2017 (SMC R) and 2018 (ENDURO R) the correct pressure is ~3.5 bar.

@@the690shed I have 2008r 690 SMR (the pelican nose one, not SMC with 63HP engine it's more a Duke than a SM really). My regulator open at 3.0 bar and makes a cool noise lol. I can't find the value for this model year. It's not listed in the KTM repair manual for this bike. The bike ran fine, it was only "jerky" at slow speeds with barely open throttle, really like 1mm on the grip but i think this is a tps or map issue, I don't have the oryginal exhaust. Someone flashed the KTM akrapovic map on it but my exhaust is not that. :) I took it apart because my pump started making weird noises after replacing the fuel filter. I also found out my fuel lines are a bit cracked so pressure was leaking. Have you ever changed the original in tank fuel lines? I've been thinking about using PA12 pneumatic lines, people on the internet say it works fine for gasoline. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gqu3iqKNg7WLpMk kzbin.info/www/bejne/hZmzaIV9lt9ghMk Edit: I found in 2008 SMC manual that fuel pressure should be 3,3-3,7 bar. It should have an indentical engine and map since it's the same year so I guess my pressure regulator is too low.

@@Jaszczur-sp2tx yes it's 3.5 bar because it's the same fuel pressure regulator from 2007 to 2017/2018 (the end of this engine family). What you describe is common for a 690s and is more related to other things like engine management (maps, tps calibration etc). Fuel delivery issues can be felt the most where you need a quick refill of the lines and injector like at big throttle openings etc. I have no idea about what you can use for the inside lines unfortunately. Maybe a good car shop would know. Have you looked at the material of the original fuel lines? Maybe it's written on them what kind of plastics it is.

The EBC springs are not stronger than the OEM springs. I've found that out recently, an Austrian friend of mine has also found out that. I even found out that they are slightly weaker. You can add up to 2 mm preload safely on each spring at the bottom (in the hole). You need washers with odd dimensions for that (od ~21 mm, id 15 mm and whatever the thickness, usually they come as 1 mm thick washers). When new the springs are around 33 to 33.5 mm long (free).

@@the690shed thanks for that. I’ve found some aluminium sump plug washers with the right ID, 2.5mm thick, OD was about 24mm, so I’ve machined them down to 21mm. I’ll let you know how it goes 👍

Did a little test the other day with the used (60,000km) OEM springs and the EBC springs. Measured the length change with different weights. Percent change to original length. 2.2kg OEM 93.8%, EBC 92.4% 20.5kg OEM 75.7%, EBC 78.4% So from this I’ve put the EBC springs in with the 2.5mm spacer. Took it for an easy road ride, no issues yet. Plan to load up and do a 2 day ride in the next week to really test it.

Elle est neuve !

If you have a brand new seal there's no need to. Even with a used one usually it works again and again. For some reason sometimes it doesn't so you can put a bit of silicone gasket/paste yes. Be careful not to plug the oil feed for the crank with the paste.

Hi. How did you do that?

@fcojavierlopez2414 When looking at the regulator from the top, measure the distance from the top to the inner section, I placed the regulator in a socket and used a smaller socket in the regulator and gently , with the use of a vise, pushed the smaller socket inward. This puts more pressure on the spring inside the regulator which increases the fuel pressure. Be gentle doing it as it's easy to push the the section with the smaller socket too far. I don't recall exactly how far I pushed it inward, I think about 0.020" or half a millimetre. I've since made an adjustable regulator, I Tig welded a flat washer to the regulator, welded a nut to the washer, used a 5mm X 15mm bolt with a locknut, I'm able to adjust the regulator. You will need a pressure gauge to get the fuel pressure to where you want it. I adjust the fuel pressure on the bench using a fully charged battery, too much involved to install the tank and remove it each time I change fuel pressure. The reason I've changed pressure is I've tried an aftermarket"performance " injector which flows 500cc instead of the original 420cc, I wouldn't recommend using the aftermarket injector, it flows too much and is a poorly designed single hole injector compared with the original 12 hole injector. I could reduce the fuel pressure for the aftermarket one, but it doesn't atomize, it's more of a squirt than a spray. I plan on installing a turbo charger over winter, I may use that injector if the original doesn't flow enough.

@@riccicrozzie8204 Thank you very much for your explanation, it seems logical and well argued to me. I'm considering modifying the regulator to make it adjustable. Regarding the injector...it is more important that it has a good spray than that it has a lot of flow...but I'm sure you already know that. I have set up a watch to measure pressures and I will do the tests soon, although I fear that the problem may come from the internal pipes of the tank that are degraded... as has happened to me before. I will try to use pipes made of a different material. Thanks again for everything.

@@fcojavierlopez2414 You're most welcome Javier, good luck.

Values have to be read (and set) with the throttle body's electric motor unplugged! Otherwise you'll ruin it as it will try to compensate for the changes. There is no other way. TPSs must be adjusted in that order, the rest of the procedure is the same as the other style of throttle body / tps combo on older 690s. TPS THAD: 0.28 to 0.32 V (pushed closed with you finger) and the same TPS when resting 0.53 to 0.57 V. TPS APAD: 0.28 to 0.32 V when resting. THAD: left side tps (monitors the throttle's real opening angle). Top value in TuneECU, windows version. APAD: right side tps (monitors the desired angle if throttle opening). Bottom value in TuneECU, windows version.

@@the690shed many thanks for your help , I really appreciate it , spent ages looking , will remember to unplug motor , thanks again Nick

@@nickhodgson864 you can find the procedure on adv rider btw. The procedure is also available in the Duke 3 R (2010 and 2011) manuals. But in a more complicated way.

Non, aucun.

@@the690shed tu a changer l'origine pour le sigma pour des raisons de patinage ? Il y a le suter qui a l'air bien aussi. Merci d'avoir répondu.

75032018100

Yes.

Dremel with a fine disc. Make a "deep" straight cut in them in order to use a flat blade screwdriver. Simple.

It broke because it was loose and rattled. The new one is gonna get loose pretty quickly also. The ones that I re-tighten never get loose and never break. Even on a 800 km day at 7'000 rpm most of the day.

@@the690shed actually just the tip broke, the one that sticks into the cam weight arm