No, it's only 1 builder and 1 guest.

At large scales absolutely

I'd automate it just for the learning experience tbh. Plus then I never have to worry about it again if I ever get an idea. less opportunity for me to be lazy in the future and lose a great opportunity.

I like to use an spiral solid carbide bit In this video I was using a 1/2" diameter single flute up-spiral solid carbide bit with 2" cutting length I usually use Whiteside brand which is excellent quality with many styles to chose from check them out here www.whitesiderouterbits.com/collections/spiral-router-bits However any brand would do fine probably I often by the 1/8" and 6mm diameter cheap imported chinese brands from amazon The HQ Master seem to be good quality for the price like these www.amazon.com/HQMaster-3-175mm-Cutting-Endmill-Tungsten/dp/B078N2FKSZ?ref_=ast_sto_dp

@@rustycnc6893 thank you so much. Super helpful 🙇🏼. Much Appreciated ❤️ from Malaysia .

This machine is a Gerber III router from 1996. It is a 6 x 10 bed size. I bought it as a non functional project very cheap. It has been re-fitted with 960 oz steppers and new electronics with Mach3. Both X and Y axis are driven by a timing belt. You can see the Y axis belt if you look closely. There is a Y axis belt on both sides to drive the gantry. Yes the belts do have about .002 - .005 movement or stretch to them if put in a bind but not really a free movement like backlash in a threaded rod. In wood or soft plastic it is not an issue at all, but in hard materials like Poly-carbonate or Aluminum it causes a lot of chatter issues.

@@rustycnc6893 Thank you so much Sir for the reply. Im planning to use 25mm steel reinforced belt for my 4x8 DIY CNC Machine. Im the woried if it Will be accurate enough for plywood cutting.

I bet 3 at that speed.

With Acrylic, slow is generally your enemy. You want to go as fast as your machine possibly can go and still be accurate. When you go slow, chips tend to remelt and fuse themselves back to the base acrylic.

@@LRobaldo I agree with you to go fast with acrylic but to get even smoother edges you can go just a little slower, not much just a little bit. Now you go so fast every spin of your bit has almost the same speed as your cnc machine (hope you understand what i say). You get those "bites" out of the acrylic instead of a smooth line. If you find that balance between rpm and speed with cutting acrylic you can do real smooth lines. I know i do a lot of acrylic with cnc.

Can you please tell me what your feeds and speeds are? I want to try to do this kind of project. Thank you so much!! Chris

I don't think you will find any info on them, they were short lived company. I hope the computer and at least the control box came with the machine. It doesn't matter what brand the machine is, you need to learn the control software. If your machine is controlled with WinCNC you can download a manual from their website. If its controlled with Mach3 there is a tremendous amount of info on many websites and forums. If you are new to CNC routers the drawing and programming of the tool path will be fun for you to learn. I prefer to use V-Carve and Aspire. Good Luck to you.

speed was 100

Yes that is Teflon, I use an single flute up-spiral carbide bit, it will lift the sheet up when cutting, this will prevent the sheet from doing that. Teflon is very soft and does not have rigidity but is very slippery. That part does not need to be Teflon, the other ones I have like this are made of aluminum.

I have no issues with mine. It runs about 5-6 hours everyday and has for many years. I have worn out many parts. The machine is built with common off the shelf parts which makes working on it easy. Can it be better? sure, any machine made could be made better. For what I do with mine it works great. The x axis drive belt / pulley system gives me a few issues with vibration sometimes in polycarbonate material. Mine runs on windows XP and WINCNC. So mine is 2 add in cards hardware based controllers not software based. 640 ounce stepper motors. I can run 4 hour long cut files with zero errors while drawing in Aspire and playing music.

Yes I do, I use a small soft brass or soft stainless steel wire brush to remove them, works very nice. I buy the brushes from McMaster.

yes, I use a V-bit and the V carve function sometimes whenever the letters, shapes or designs are small. Most signs I do for the State parks like this one are really big and too much material has to be removed to use a v-bit. I prefer to use a engraving type bit similar to an Onsrud 37-25 with a 30 degree angle and a .187 or larger flat bottom that I grind myself, however I believe on this video I was using a carbide .250 single flute up spiral.

Hi Chris I have and so far have not got good resulfts