I was so confident I could do it until he got that last bolt. I needed all those attachments. Sigh

Sealskinz waterproof winter socks and Shimano MW7 SPD boot review. Wet February UK 20mile gravel ride test

when pushing the piston back undo the bleed nipple this makes it easy and gets fresh fluid into the calliper 9v battery will run the motor back without stripping the motor

Good video, very useful.!

Multumesc frumos pentru informații și va doresc tot binele din lume mitică la toate

Ok, you're hired! I have a 2012 X60. Can we make this a beer and smoke repair, short on cash, all I have is high jacked beer and a Mexican cartel boss as a neighbor. Warning: this post was meant strictly as satire, no crime was committed in telling this joke, and no joke was committed in telling this crime...

You can release the piston in the EPB with a 9V battery without disassembling the housing: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bqqYZXeBh62fd9E

How do you feel about the TPU Car Headlights Film Protective Sticker Restoration Trim ? I found some on Ebay. I have a XC60 2015 (bought Feb 2020).

What kind of White marker is that? Thanks.

Great demo thank you

I need to grease mine. So we see grease come out? I'm watching in the sun on my ride by the lake and it's hard to see. I love my Yeti!

Excellent! Thank you so much!

So finding myself with what I thought would be enough time to deal the 'fourth hole', I started to take apart. Two side ones were fine, but for some reason, the middle one wasn't coming undone. I thought perhaps the thread had stripped, but it was metal to metal, so should have been ok. I had been doing everything to date from inside. So I close the hatch and lifted the light off, to reveal that the middle 'bolt' had unscrewed itself from the light fitting. This then become a complete arse to get out single handed. So I put some mole grips on the outside, and went back inside. As the nut came undone, the grips had more play, so started to turn, so I had to keep gripping the bolt further down the thread. Did this about four times, and got the little #### out. I was then worried that when I refitted it and tightened it, it would strip the thread, as this is indeed, metal bolt into plastic fitting. So I put a tiny bit of gaffa tape on the thread, and used the fitting nut to screw it into the fitting. I covered the fourth hole with some gaffa tape, and put a piece of closed cell foam in between the fitting and the bodywork. Screwed it all in, tested, job's a good 'un. But what I thought would take 20 minutes took an hour. Moral of story, bung hole up on first fitting.

I get a huge amount of satisfaction doing jobs like this. My Volvo garage want best part of £200 for a new one, to pass the MOT in Sept. Got a new one for about £80 delivered from a well known auction site. Don't use the Lithuanian ones, they say standard postage gets held up, but miraculously, if you pay extra, it will get through ok!! I didn't notice the prob with the fourth hole, so will disassemble in a couple of days, and seal the extra hole, though, I'll be surprised if there isn't water inside the tailgate already from seals leaking, and sweating etc over the last 12 years, and this fourth hole is not exactly going to funnel loads in. But I will do it, as it's now a tic in my head! The middle nut is quite awkward, and you need exactly the right combination of socket, extension, ratchet etc. When I saw the tutorial, and you went to your MASSIVE selection of sockets, my heart sank, but my two Bahco sets covered it. One of them is magnetic, and while not deep enough to either start to remove or tighten the nut fully, was invaluable at the last bit of getting it out, and the first part of putting it back. And those pesky grommets, just a small wipe with washing up liquid, and they push back in, easy as. Really great tutorial, and thanks to guys like you that help us d.i.y.ers with some clever hacks. Cheers.😂

I could get horizontal dropouts for my bike but I think I will go this route instead. I don't like to faff with horizontal dropouts, fenders, brakes. I think It's much simpler when the rear end is just normal.

Ta saved me a bit of time

Don't bother taking the motor off, there's a risk of cracking the lugs. All you have to do is unplug the cable and put a 9v or 12v battery across the terminals to wind the motor in or out.

Thanks for this. I have tried so hard to put pressure on but seeing this in real time gives me hope to try again and just give a little more time and pressure and to watch the bottom seal for the grease. appreciate it!

Thanks

I've just done mine, a couple of tips for anyone doing the same. 1. The centre nut comes out easily, I used a deep 10 mil 3/8 drive socket, using the socket and a pair of pliers, locate the socket onto the nut by hand, support it with one hand and turn the socket with the pliers, a turn or so and you can ditch the pliers and remove by hand, do the same in reverse for the install. 2. My LED assembly also came without the spigot for that fourth hole/mount, I cut a square from a milk carton and used some silicone to stick it over the hole and applied silicone ontop, I doubt any water will penetrate at that point. Job time around 40 minutes to figure it out and install. I could probably do it in half the time now. Don't bother taking off rear window trim, It gives no further access to any of the points in question..

That centre one looks impossible to get the nut back on I'm doing my 2010 just now ....any tips ?

Looks brilliant 👌

Great idea about putting tape around the edges to provide a neat barrier, thanks for sharing!!

Great video Jamie, really loved seeing your process! Are you going to cut the pozzys in? Looks really polished, even like the rounded edges on the finger pull columns you've put in with the straightedge! Looking forward to seeing you do the remaining drawers!

I got all the way to the part where I need to attach the bolt to the middle screw and I just can't seem to get it to attach. Any tips?

Wanted to install a new dropper post for my wife and had about given up hope - you save Christmas!

Thank You for this. Huge Help.

Where's the stages and commentary 🤔?

Thanks for the vdo.

Great video, just what I need. Big thanks!

They should have made some sort of tool retainer as done when unscrewing an SS freewheel from rear hub by fixing it in place with a hub bolt. A hole in the tool with another pinless buddy on another side, bolted together through the bottom bracket, would make a great job.

About to do mine, was it easy?

You are fackeeeeen asho you not pienso nada como you must be a baker or a bricklayer.

ρяσмσѕм 😃

What year model is this XC60? I have a 2016 T5, the plastic housing below (Alarm-FM long range antenna housing) the 3rd break light is cracked and I need to fully disassamble the hole top portion of it to get it replaced :(

Disse Enry Ford :quanda passa un Alfa Romeo mi tolgo il cappello

AN IMPORTANT PSA. The new light you just installed does not seal one of the holes. Go compare in your video the old part vs the new part. It's missing a white seal and retaining clip. Water is probably leaking into your tailgate. I had to seal the hole on my new brake light.

You sir are a genius. You have just made me go from frustrated despair, to a little happy dance! It worked a treat.

I just had mine fail. The Housing separated on the seam just like yours.

got one to do myself, 2010 xc60 d5 a single led is out , going to try resolder or replace the strip or the the SMD Led. reckon water and corrosion gets into them

Well done 👍🏻

Waw a 60 euro light bulb ,from 1 euro normal filament to led strip,Well done Volvo

One dislike from the cat - Don't ever wake me! Hello from Russia)

How is this EBB holding up? Are you happy with it? Is it worth the extra cash over a tensioner? Thanks!

Just received one of these so grateful to see your video - thanks. Also been pondering the instructions and wonder if you agree that the 'quadrant' section may be implying that depending on which quadrant you end up in, you may have to swap the external eccentric part from one side to the other in order to end up with the screw/locknut fixture being correctly orientated as pers the instructions such that forward motion of the crank/chain/belt further tightens on the eccentric? Did you ever get a response from the company? Is this what they said? Although I can understand the rationale and its importance it would seem to add another potential faff in that although you might strike it lucky first time, you may equally have to set things up, find you have got the 'wrong' eccentrics on each side and so have to swap them over. Would be interested to know it others agree or have any insights (or better German ?!)

I just put on mine as well. That sound is way better to me than any other configuration of trumpets. Enjoy!!

Did you get an answer regarding the position of the screw/locknut? I can't get my head around the instruction and my exzentriker seems to slip...

do you have a volvo part number for the light ramp?

it appeared in my recommendations, thanks youtube

Very clever!