.👏👏👏👏👏

To me it looks like you need to slow down. Tools are only what you you make of them. Sorry I hope I am not to hard on you. I like the way you explain. Most wood cutter are just to D-A-R-N silly !

Great job! I appreciate you posting this video. I am just getting started in woodworking and your explanation was great. Thank you!

thanks... messed with the dang thing for two days... first time replacing and I was installing it 180 degrees out... thanks ... paper towards you push roller away from you...

Very nice practical design. I like it better than most other folding outfeed tables I have seen with hinges and your table top framework.

Amazing but the chess is not complete. There are no annotations.

Number one rule when using one of these is don’t try and take a heavy cut especially with anything above 100 grit! And when I say a heavy cut I’m talking 1/32 of an inch. Don’t do it, you will instantly clog and burn the paper. Resinous wood like pine is even more trouble because even with a very light cut it wants to clog the paper. The name of the game is it’s a finish sander and unless you’re using heavy grits of paper like 60 or 40 grit, you simply can’t sand a lot on each pass. It also needs good dust collection. Don’t even try it without good dust collection or you will be coughing and it …..will clog the paper. You must be able to evacuate the sawdust as it sands the wood. And don’t reduce the dust pipe diameter. Stay at or step up in size but never reduce the pipe size. If you find it’s not clogging the paper but you still have burn marks on the wood you should try speeding up the moving belt. If you can’t clean the drum with a crepe stick as shown you can use a piece of plexiglass by holding it and running it on edge to remove stubborn clogs. Wear gloves to hold the plexiglass because it can slice your hand if it catches. Never ever try to stop or slow down the rotating drum by using your hand as shown at 18:41 unless you don’t want fingerprints.

Thanks for showing me all the things that I don't want to do for my sled.

Just got a new Jet drum sander. This video is a big help. Thanks

Yes I wanna know how you make your own mineral oil wax mix… so I have no excuse no to reach your perfection in this project! Great job. Thanks for posting.

Instructional videos are best without the theatrics. The silly acting is just distracting.

Not bad for a rook😊. I like working with the router a lot, and have noticed a lot of folks don’t go the correct direction. It’s also opposite when using a router table, since the router is upside down. Love the channel. BTW, I got the “free” stand with the desalt planer, and it has two fixed wheels which you really can’t change to swivel wheels. So it is a pain in the neck. My next shop build will probably be a miter saw cabinet, but one day I may replace that one too.

I found the bearing assembly on the Wen website. Just put in 3966-107ASM on their search bar for the upper assembly. The lower assembly is 3966-131ASM.

Real nice. That wood grain looks amazing. Great build exceeeeeeeept I would've like to see you hide the dowels..💪🏾

Dang.... your left hand is always too close to the blade on all saws. But you are experienced .... still this gave me chills. Beautiful board!!

I am going to build my own as well and your video gave me some great guidance - thanks.

Sir....AT 3:08 in your video , you say "the blade rests on the rear bearing". The blade should only be close, and if it rarely gets in contact with it, that's optimal. If the blade flexes enough to get Intouch with this "guide " bearing, you, the operator, are probably pushing the timber through too aggressively. Are you dropping the guide to almost contacting the timber? Is the blade dull and need replacing? James Hamilton has good tips on set-up and blade choices. It looks like, in the video, that the side guide bearing are splitting too... they also should be set close but not touching, the blade and the bottom ones the same. The only reason to adjust them is when you install a different size blade and BTW a 1/2 in wide blade will really tax your patience because the wheels and tires aren't quite wide enough to accommodate that size to have the blade gullets in the center of the tire which is where the blade should ride. Setting and releasing the blade tension is the only other thing you should be concerned with so that you don't create flat spots in the tires. I'm surprised no one else mentioned this fix. Congratulations on finding that thrust bearing replacement.

Well done. All the key points were covered. I have seen over the years that different brands/mfg of sandpaper does stretch with use. Disappointed that they decided to go with a handle style height adjuster rather than the older wheel style. It is a personal preference, my dual drum has a handle and really not that big a deal.

Nice

Good video! You can use zirconia sand paper too, it lasts longer and doesn’t clog up. You can have a little bit of a gap between the paper too.

Why not just make it into a reversible slicer? Simply drill another hole and cut another slot mirror-imaged on the other end.

As a guy that’s been doing this stuff for over 50 years, I just want to say I’m glad that the craft will continue on. I did woodworking as a hobby and eventually turned it into a business. So I’ve got a lot of hours at the bench. If I can put one thing out there, please be careful with the jointer. I couple of times your fingers got very very close to the blade. Keep your work piece up against the fence and don’t pull the guard away. The tools that you think are the safest to use will be the ones that hurt you. My worst cut I ever got was from the bandsaw. Good work my friend. Keep it up.

does anyone know if this thrust bearing might fit the Wen WEN BA3962 - the 3.5amp 10" bandsaw?

Nice metaphors; and you didn't even mix them.

This is a great addition to a workshop. May I ask what brand is this?

If you would have marked the paper outline with the abrasive towards the floor you could have maker the cut line easier.

Pretty nice. A chess table should have the dark square a the lower left when you start playing.

I rely like my Wen 14" bandsaw. I will check my bearings, other than the fact that the light wont hold position I cant give any complaints about it.

Very nice work

it's excellent . i think the folding idea is the best solution for shops with limited space . 👍

I have been watching folding outfeed table videos this morning and yours is by far the most practical (removeable panels, hinges you can get at the big box store, floor levelers). While my set up is a bit different than yours, your solution will adapt perfectly. Thanks for sharing!

8:37 SawStop may save your fingers but it destroys the saw. Maybe try using a blade guard could save a finger and a lot of money.

excelent!

Great video. Took 3 rolls to get it right. I have a question though. I have a JET 18/36 and the JET rolls are 3 3/8" wide. The rolls that you cut to length are 3" wide. How does that work on this machine? I'm guessing I need the rolls cut longer than the JET pre cut. Please advise.

I know this is going to sound strange - it was too me - but there is a guy that posts a lot of videos - and he says that the guide bearing don't have anything to do with cutting straight - kzbin.info/www/bejne/nHeYkGaYZ5p_q68 - EthAnswers The Truth On Bandsaw Guides! Why They Don't Matter For Resawing + Guide Comparison

I have a Ryobi WDS1600. It was a miserable job to change out sanding rolls on this machine and keep it tight to the drum. The clips are extremely difficult to operate, even with the special tool to operate them. After several years of frustration, I bought a hook and loop kit from Grizzily. The difference is incredible. A little difficult to apply the adhesive backed hook and loop to the drum, but once done it is so much easier to change sandpaper rolls.

Ok, i would like to buy some rough cut hardwood, but if you can give me an idea of what that board cost you and did you purchase it at a big box store or a mill?? Newbi rookie taking baby steps plus i bought this Rockler Juice Groove Jig and i could swear this thing will not work with my fixed base router..your thoughts Mr. Rookie.

Nice and simple I appreciate it

👍 Thanks for sharing! The simplicity and ruggedness of your design will work perfect for my SawStop. I was going to make the Almfab outfeed, but like you, I have “other activities” in our garage. The folder is a must for maneuverability. The details showing your M10 threaded wood inserts, the Home Depot type hinge and magnets to hold your legs up sold me on your design. Now to figure out if I want to Formica the top or just keep in simple with paste wax. Nice work!!

Alternate ifea: How about using same style metal clip on box, maybe even a slightly larger size clip and then using plastic ties and string it though the clip and then attach to passenger headrest metal post.

Love the sense of humor 😂😂. New subscriber

What a great video. I am a newbie but learning quickly. Being on my own I don’t have anyone to learn from so your tips are helpful! I have subscribed and will definitely watch your channel

You buy a $5,000.00 SawStop, but you don't want to spend $420 on the table? Bet the wife had a say in that ! haha. Anyways, cool idea. Looking at designs for my out feed table and yours in one I've bookmarked. Thanks.

My next cutting board!!!!

Once again you are a very talented woodworker you pay attention to detail. Thanks for sharing.

WOW that is very impressive! You are very talented..

I’m with you on this . I would buy the saw stop to get the nice fence , steel flat table top if I had the space and did enough to warrant it . Then I’d build around it to save . The out feed table you build is fully customizable to your needs . You can rehab it 4 times and still be under the cost of the out feed table . For a commercial shop putting out tons of work weekly yes I’d get it .

I enjoy your commentary. Nice project

Only real woodworkers would get this. And all of us agree... AFAIK

Love the video and your candor.