I have a link in the description for the sensor. It's pretty generic so you can shop around for the best price. That is the one I used in my video

@@amishthunder5099 Thanks

Im not sure which screws you're referencing or what switch you have since the video has both the LCD and OLED models. If it the backplate seems secure I probably wouldn't worry too much although I'd be gentle while playing it.

@@TKMakes-2024 My apologies, the first one that was released / regular (dockable) LCD Nintendo Switch. The 5 screws on each side of the screen (rails) where the joy-con slide into. We see the 10 screws I'm talking about between 12:48 and 12:51.

Gotta give that a thumbs up.

I feel $30 is a great deal if it worked but there isn't a big used market where I'm at. I had to send the kids inside to get my thumbnail shot because three times I turned my back and heard my son taking another thwack at it. My other printers are scared.

@TKMakes-2024 yeah it's not bad it just was the floor model at a micro center That's going to take quite a bit of work to bring it back to life. Good luck with your printers hopefully everything is okay!

Right after publishing I did just that! Took advantage of that $20 coupon and a .2 nozzle.

It's a good idea but for me it probably wasn't worth the effort. The time and cost of filament to strengthen 3 full arms is probably an entire roll of PLA and it may still not work. Could be a good video idea but it uh... isn't in a state that I can measure anymore. :)

@@TKMakes-2024 Heh, fair enough :)

A max? That's a good deal! Would have been nice to have for that pizza Hut pizza warmer. I'm waiting to see what the new Bambu printer size will be before getting a larger printer.

@@TKMakes-2024 Yeah if you can afford a Bambu when they release a bigger one that would be the way to go. I couldnt pass up that deal. Im looking to do bigger projects i dont wanna have to splice up and wouldnt be able to afford Bambu Lab printers anyways.

I paid 90 for a refurbished kobra 2 neo with 1kg of pla on ebay

nork my friend hello.i think you are the one who said that buy v3 than bambu.Please say in where v3 is 150?

@nicatinhoyosofficial6247 hello the price have go up a little bit but its steal cheap the shot is called 3djake google it

Funny you say that. I did really want a printer my kids can use and "own" with supervision. I took advantage of getting an a1 mini for $180 and will be here soon. Would have saved $80 by starting with that :(

​@@TKMakes-2024 Your video made me appreciate my a1 mini a lot more, tough to beat it in the sub $200 class.

Knew it'd be bad but for $80 I expected better. Legitimately disappointed

​@@TKMakes-2024 Really? There are already videos about how garbage these machines are. Either this is 100% totally for the views and a cheap way to make content, or you don't research your purchases. You have a bambu labs P1S, so you didn't need a 3d printer and bought this out of ignorance. I am continuing to engage is because you are a small channel and I believe that you deserve all the attention needed to grow. You made a quality video, keep it up and good job :D

Won't break anytime soon! I think it was the default 15%

I already had that and decided this was a good use for it. They should be pretty inexpensive from your local hardware store and I highly recommend having a few of these around.

It looks like they are updating the IDE and instead of "Output" I just found the same window at the bottom labeled "Serial Monitor".

@@TKMakes-2024 Thank you so much

It was a pain to print and still doesn't fit on a standard 220mm print bed when cut in half. I was looking at that Neptune 4 Max thinking "Do I finally have a reason?" :)

What are you printing on? I was glad I only had to cut it in half to fit on my print bed. The depth is still greater than most 220mm print beds and cutting in 4 would be a pita.

@TKMakes-2024 @TKMakes-2024 I don't know. My library is doing it. I'll ask them when I pick it up.

It came with the standard spool holder that screws on to the back. I haven't played with TPU yet but it didn't come with a TPU specific holder.

I expected a lot worse to be honest. Not good enough to use but pleasantly surprised!

Better yet, you can connect a standard 20V power tool battery to it.

On Thingiverse here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3433643

I thought you would need a bigger printer to print planes but I haven't kept up with RC stuff since getting a nitro TMaxx 10 years ago with the 2.5 I believe. The Enders are great printers but the step up to a P1S has made it fun again. Hope the P1S treats you well, it's been great over here!

Bambu Labs P1S. I have a review on it and can 100% recommend especially at the current "Black Friday" price.

@@TKMakes-2024 Oh alright thank you!

Microcenter. I have text there in the intro because I forgot that part

quite mobile indeed BUT difficult to impossible to control tip temp. so depending on what one works on, the butane might be perfect or useless (super thin insulated cables, especially in tight spaces, get damaged quickly)

Yeah, a battery bank and a pinecile or similar and it’s way cheaper

Thats not even close. Get a Pinecil 88W pen shaped iron and connect a makita battery to it. That'll run you about 35$ if you have the battery laying around.

I agree. A Pinecil with a battery would do the same thing for a fraction of the cost.

@@ghrayfahx exactly and all the setting would be adjustable thru the app with bluetooth or right on the soldering device itself

If I did the desktop station with a portable iron on the side that looks like a solid one to get.

If I didn't mention it I'm a solid amateur but learning the right way to do it with enough knowledge to be dangerous. It makes sense and I did some of the through hole stuff without solder since the video is so cut down. I'll have to look more into the proper technique and wouldn't mind saving some money on flux with the right technique :)

@TKMakes-2024 sure, you mentioned it and I'm giving you some advice. The Flux craze that took over the youtube soldering world teaches bad practices. You always use the joint to melt the solder, not the iron. It leads to cold solder joints. Sometimes there is a reason to do otherwise but this is generally not one of them.

Came here to literally say the same thing 😅 I like to use a beveled tip, placing the flat side onto the PCB pad+ touching the pin that I want to solder. Then waiting 1-2 seconds and start feeding the solderwire onto the PCB pad rather than the tip of the solder iron. If the solder doesn't melt - it's not hot enough or you haven't waited enough time for the pad to heat up. Also one reason the solderwire was that came with the package is "thick and difficult to clean" is potentially bc it's non-clean flux, which hardens and doesn't cause corrosion, so you don't need to clean it, but I haven't seen the label so it's just a guess..

@@montvydasklumbys7584 It is no clean flux so you're right I shouldn't have tried cleaning it off and I had no idea it hardened. Thanks!

The Weller stations are (or at least were) great. We used them in college too but I was there way back in the early 90's. I'm on the lookout for a new setup and the Weller kits are top of my list.

That was the default settings, it's chunky! It can also be used as a hammer, yes!

Thank you!

Thanks! Was exited to find one in the wild while delivery dates were so far out.