@@skiman5289I put a new agm battery from O'Reilly in my car and upgraded my alternator. I had no problems with it. Only reason I went with lifesaver was because friends of mine had different ones and lifesaver was the one I noticed to be more reliable. Sometimes you can get a bad device and have to have it changed out. But once I got everything figured out it worked great for me. Main ones were the blow and hum, no cold drinks while driving, and no applying cologne, glass cleaner, areosol, hand sanitizer.etc with the windows up. Also don't burp a rockstar energy drink into it. It would give me little warnings that were not enough to give me a violation or whatever. But I never got any warnings I had to pay for either. I did everything clean and sober so it is very simple if your not running around drinking and trying to get it out of your system.

@@dakidd3412 I had to solder them perfectly and use flux to get the solder to adhere

@@dakidd3412 I have to flux, pull solder and then flux and resolder mine after a year or something long. I have had the same one I prefer for 6 years because the battery life works well with my rechargeable AAA batteries. I use a solder wick to clean and then chip quick in the syringe for flux. I also had to melt some plastic areas lightly with a iron in my latest rework to get it to fit and hold. But I figured since they all do it that there was a way to fix it. When they go out on the contacts they act like a dead or low battery. If I drop or throw mine a little tough it has gotten loose. But once you get the idea of it it will stay working for a long time.

@@SnoopEastwood I use a crescent tool set that goes up to 21mm and then there is the big bolt / nuts under the hood next to the wheel / control arm that are deep socket and I believe that was 1 1/4 deep socket. I will have to go through my socket set and see. But if you need that one in general to lower the cross member it's those 2 big bolts that look like they hold the control arms on each side. Just rember the engine has to be supported by a engine puller or something to hold it up while you drop the cross member. I used 2 or 3 jacks and jack stands to hold up the cross member but it comes out. Just be sure your doing it properly and safely. You also have to disconnect the steering rack from the steering shaft. That requires point the wheels straight and then locking the steering wheel in the center position with something like the seat belt so it does not loose its position on the clock spring under the airbag. There is a procedure to re calibrate it to center if you loose the turn.

The Honda was speeding and that's why I didn't hit either of them. I have avoided many near wreck situations like this by slowing down while people are turning in front of my car until they complete the turn. The truck felt the need to quickly get out of the Honda's way that had the right of way to avoid a accident. Old guy driving the Honda was not smart to be driving so fast in the weather conditions. The right of way is not greater than the risk factors of not being a defensive driver. Truck had no insurance because the guy just bought it.

@@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf both drivers were not smart. The truck should have not been on the road without insurance to begin with. second they still failed to yield to oncoming traffic. The honda wasn't smart as they weren't wearing a seatbelt but they still had right of way.

@@peachespie1249 I agree :)

I replaced mine with the standard brand TX91 sensor. These engines have some issues with loosing coolant from the intake manifold, failed radiator fans & module unit on fan shroud, failed thermostat, or clogged radiator. You could be leaking coolant from the intake manifold and having a overheating issue that is difficult to see. Or something else that is failing and causing it to overheat. I keep a thermostat that has the core and spring assembly removed from the center for diagnosing if my car is cooling properly. I cut the left and right side from the bottom close to the O and then pull off the retaining tabs at the top of the left and right of the O. Then I run my car with the modified thermostat with no core to see if my engine retains a colder engine temperature while driving on the highway and in general. It also helps when I need to do a radiator flush by letting the coolant flow without restriction. Usually if a car is warmed up and the radiator is bad you can warm it up and feel where there are hot spots and cold spots behind the fan shroud or in front of the radiator. This car is difficult to check because of the electric fans and AC condenser. So that test would be done with a temperature reading gun or removing the bolts for the fan shroud, warming it up and then running the AC to turn the fans on for a cooling cycle. Then turning off the engine and testing behind the shroud with caution of not touching the electric fan. I also like to squeeze the top radiator hose to check and see if coolant is flowing because sometimes the leaks can cause it to not have coolant at the top hose and overheat without knowing. Running the engine with the modified thermostat will eventually get a code for coolant temp too low if it is cooling properly. The last thing could be the water pump is not working right. But the gates water pump is a good replacement. Another thing that can happen is if you use 50/50 coolant instead of concentrate, it could create a clear jelly in the cooling system and prevent water from flowing. Always use a concentrated coolant like prestone all makes and mix with 50% or less water. I also recommend using the motorcraft thermostat for the car when you do put a new one in because the diameter of the thermostat center. Might be the wrong size with a aftermarket one. If you run the car with the modified thermostat and that code goes away. Then it means the car was overheating and going into cylinder head overheat / protection mode. The car will stutter and run poorly if it overheats because the mode makes it run on less cylinders / fuel to prevent overheating. Then the code comes up and it says it overheated and went into that mode. I run a specific engine sealer in my car in order to prevent pin hole leaks from causing issues that require lots of attention. After you get a idea of what's going on, let me know if you find any of the above issues. I overhauled my head gaskets and cylinder heads on my car along with replaced and silicone sealed all my intake gaskets and the 2 gaskets that are separate under the thermostat side of the manifold cross over. There is a common leak under the metal thermostat housing on the manifold that can be fixed with the gaskets if it's not too broken in the plastic area. Or if it's too broken you can replace the manifold with OEM or aftermarket. I have been told to avoid the dorman manifold and have replaced them with a different brand, I believe was spectra on eBay. But the better manifolds have collets and threads for the 8 spark coils and run a better air flow. The manifolds are also year and model specific by numbers. But currently my 06 is running a 05 manifold. I am not sure what they make specifically for years .etc. But I have my own issue with the car and I believe ECU eventually running into that overheating mode as a error when I have my thermostat in with no codes or indication the engine is overheating. So, hopefully this info helps.

You can also check the temp sensor with a scanner like obd mx on a phone or laptop with the app called forscan. Your engine temp is going to be under the cooling pid's when you get into the gauges on the app, select pid's and look for or type coolant or temp in the search menu. You will also know if the temp sensor is the right one if you unplug the harness between the temp sensor and the engine harness side. Usually the car has a harness between the sensor and engine harness you can unplug instead of unplugging it at the sensor. My car has no reading at the dash gauge if I unplug that sensor. Good luck :)

@@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf turned out to be my water pump was going out. Changed that now my car is running very much better. Next will be radiator

@@jamesmcdaniel38340 I recommend doing this project cracked out on energy drinks. A continuity test with a volt meter will help identify the broken circuits. It's that thing on the volt meter where you turn it to beep mode when it makes contact between the 2 terminals. But it's probably the same thing broken on all of them. Let me know how your project goes and if this helps you :)

@@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf it did help it had the same exact bad trace. I drilled hole thru the via and used a small wire insulated ran thru hole and to back leg of varistor and then to ground on plug. Worked like a charm! Thx! James

@@jamesmcdaniel38340 That's awesome :) good to know it's at the same area for future reference. Mine was loosing AC and all kinds of other weird stuff. But I took it apart, was flexing the board around while plugged in and found that joint when it sparked and got hot in that area. I see the same thing on the crown Victoria but the dash is a little different and was questioning if that was the same in that design too. I believe it's made by VDO, the same company that made the 96 VW clusters that would go out in a similar way too. But I would rather deal with the dash .etc than the earlier versions with the engines that do not make it over 300k

@@chrisjennings493 I think spraying the latches with wd 40 helps. I believe it's the mechanism grease that sticks. But you can tell when the outer door handle has slack on the pull of it, if it has worked free or if you have to repeat for a while. I sprayed my latches really well inside with the straw for the can and they kept working.

@@OBS.Rey__ If you know how to operate the magnet like I did, yes I did. You go through the push rod holes, and drag them to the distributor hole.

But can you even install them

@@OBS.Rey__ Yes I did install them after removing them. I use this method to check for worn / wiped out lifters / cam lobes. On Chevy 454 they also have a hole you can pull them through. Not exactly the perfect way to do it since there can be debris .etc on the galley way if it's not clean. But I did this because I had a few abnormal ones that were jetting oil out the lifters / pushrods instead of flowing oil. I also inspect them for abnormal wear using this method. But when they are worn down it takes some tugs and work to get them to taper off the abnormal side of the bottom. I also check / determine if the lifters are wiped out when they don't slide up and out easily.

Or you ruined the easy start spring

@@bbx-gaming3162 Junk, Amazon returned product.

@@jaybandz2026 I can't find the part number. But I rember I bought it at O'Reilly and I believe it was a standard brand product with a tx in the part number. I recommend motorcraft from the dealership but the standard brand fits.

@@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf okay bro because I bought one and it’s almost the same but one of the insert lines is on the opposite side.

@@jaybandz2026 Yea the standard tx one does not have the lines on it so it fits without having to deal with that. I bought a motorcraft one with a line on the opposite side of Amazon and returned it. I don't know if they make the whole harness to the sensor thing with different side lines or like if you could file the line off and so it fit the connector. But I bought the one from O'Reillys and it didn't have the line in the rectangle part.

@@jaybandz2026 part number is TX91 found the receipt for it when I was cleaning my car today :) Hope this helps.

@@NightRider-16 No fan is factory set to run with AC on to create flow from front AC radiator thing in front of the radiator. It will turn off if you turn off the climate control. It has to run in order to work properly for AC or AC can become damaged.

@@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf oh OK so you're saying it's normal for my fans to run constantly as long as AC is on? So basically I don't have a problem? Thank u for responding

@@NightRider-16 Yes with AC on and engine running it is normal.

Thanks so much definitely left a like a sub

Sometimes they go faulty and you have to get a replacement device because someone got too much moisture in it. I changed the tips frequently to avoid moisture and I don't know what style device you have if it's like this. But you can try humming and blowing hard into it with your cheeks puffed out to maintain a solid air flow and back pressure. Once you get it straightened out with the device you will be used to it and get through it. Lifesafer was the best one with friends experiences I knew with others. So don't give up and rember it's just a temporary thing :)

@@Ayvazov1986 Don't forget to spray the latches with wd40 or whatever will lubricate the latches and it should clear up.

@@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf for sure! 🙂

I did it all for the extension cord...

It works well, but I had no clue what I was doing other than mimicing the setup off my other RV Coleman's I had these off of. They made it start fast and well though with less drag. I would like to get the brand new hard start black one at bottom along with top black one. Mine runs off a Honeywell thermostat and control box so I think that's where my white wire and connected wire were supposed to go in general. I avoid touching anything metal at cap connectors in fear of shock along with installing unplugged. But I was definitely risking the 50% chance of failure with the not knowing what I was doing :)

They keep on knocking but they can not come in.

No

It's a "Disconnected" RV toilet. The interior is water damaged and contaminated with nicotine. So 5th wheel is getting torn apart, disinfected and possibly rebuilt.

Ah so is it like a potential ''fixer-upper'' previous tenants left it in a state kinda deal? I think many of us were under the assumption you're just sorta... living like this. 😅

You keep on knocking but you can't come in...

No it's a 5th wheel...

Yea, it's my teardown and rebuild project with a sad story to it's everything about the previous owner.

It's actually a project 5th wheel that is not habitable due to it's interior conditions at the moment. But one day if I do get it finished it will be a clean house. Or a hauling trailer depending on how much I want to put into it.

It's a liger 😁

"Alaskan" sled dog huskies :)

​@@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf probably dead just dead dogs if they got in that trailer 🤢🤮

@@liamhgd581 Yea that's why they can't come in. It's under construction 🚧

@@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf and Shrek started to label his swamp a spa. Think anyone believed that either ? 🤣