The pro and glass are ceramic..

@@user-pm7pw1tl3t "ceramic" aka vitrified is binding not abrasive. I'm talking about the abrasive.

Thank you for your kind words. I am slowly coming back to be more active around knives, so some stones videos may eventually happen. Greetings to Indonesia 🇮🇩

@@matusknives Dakujeme👍

Yes they can. If you want to transport them safely, you will need to wrap them or put them inside some box or similar.

They came out with quite a few different variations in the mean time.

I have not used many more coarse stones since this video, my go-to remained the Bester 220. You get most performance for your buck. The perfect super coarse stone was not made yet IMO 😁

I like the beast which is 240 sigma select. Also, Naniwa traditional 220. Both use silicon carbide and must be kept flat but can cut like demons. The Naniwa is much cheaper and easier to find. Both very good. Also do not underestimate the Norton. Crystlon oil stone is great, does not dish, cuts massive, comes either very very course or just course. The crystlon "fine 320" is one of the best course stone, it is only maybe $30 for 8"x3" stone with case, only downside is oil stone, but I use mine with water and soap. Also a 220/1k norton combo water stone, the 220 side is silicon carbode and cits like demon. The 1k is nothing like Japanese 1k and cuts like demons also. Norton 1k is more friable than others like say shapton. I like the shapton pro 220. This is one of my favorite to use on very dull edges. Also the Nanohone 200 is good but expensive. The shapton glass I would just get 120 rather than 220 but I only have the 320 and 500 which are both very similar and good but not on the same level of coarseness of the 120 or 220 in that line. The glass 120 is not like the pro 120 btw. I feel like I forgot one. Yes of course if you can afford it some very course diamond stones works well. Something like the nanohone soft resin diamond with 100 or 200 um, or similar items like from Venev. I wish Naniwa made a chosera below 400. I never saw the Bester stone. Also I never saw the 200 debado but I heard it's very good. Expenive also but good.

The only model I am aware of (and could not resist not to buy) is the recently released Ayoob SE in CruWear. The knife has indeed a flat grind with SE edge. The cool part is - the serrations are much less deep and I find they work a lot better and do not catch on stuff like the out-of-the-box H1 Pacific Salt 2 did. Funny enough - I am actually considering having a concave grind added to the left side for the ease of future maintenance and cutting properties (I like the hollow grind on the Pacific). But I am still on the factory edge (which is pretty impressive) and will first just use sharpmaker to more-less follow the existing geometry.

@@matusknives I have seen lots of models with flat grind and serrations. Just for test purposes I was looking at the Tenacious. I don't like the model very much. The new Pacific Salt with LC20N also has a flat ground blade with spyder edge. And, of course there is tha Para series. The Para 3 LW. I have a few videos on serrations and tests/talk. If I have the time I'll film another today and upload them. I found, that for my use, i prefer the rounded tips. for now at least. I am not a huge fan of serrations but I am struggling to give them a shot. First point for me would be: ease of maintenance. So if I can sharpen them on the Spyderco Sharpmaker...that would be a start. So far it works

Is mu understanding correct, that working the right side takes the points of the teeth off? That would definitely reduce the aggressivity, but I guess also catching on the material. Yes - dropping the angle on these relatively thick SE edges is really a multi-hour job as one can't just put it on a normal water stone and get it done in under 30 minutes.

@@matusknives Yes, Working the side opposite the scallops will round off the teeth. I find this better as I noticed that a bit of "slide" in the cut helps. I sharpened a few Victorinox kitchen knives and tested them on vegetables. The aggressive serrations seemed to cut a bit "less smooth". Not sure if for edc tasks i would want super aggressive serrations. I can imagine that for a quick "cut and go" job an aggressive pattern would be prefered. But for that one would actually need to have a "serrations" sharpening kit and/or spend a lot of time. At that point...i think i would prefer a super sharp fine edge

Awesome. How do you like the Navaja?

It would be great to compare the two knives side by side. Please let me know how will the SE LC200N pacific salt will work for you on cardboard.

kzbin.info/www/bejne/qITUhJqoeKyqiKM

Hey Scott, I am happy to hear you found that crazy long post helpful. I am more than happy to help, but before I go into the details here - would it be an option for you to contact me via Instagram? The link is in my 'About' page here on YT.

@@matusknives Just did, thank you!

@@tenaciousjeebs awesome, looking forward to our discussion :)

It is the #150 grit diamond plate from JKI (JapaneseKnivesImports) - is meant especially for flattening sharpening stones.

The diamon 150 can flat the grit 120 of snap ton pro? I’m searching a thing for flatting that stone

Thank you John. Indeed - rounded and more shallow serrations work better for more general use as the tips of sharp/deep serrations. They are still toothy enough to use the advantage of the SE edge (able to cut fairly well even when the edge itself is not anymore quite as sharp) while catching less on stuff. The cutting with the PM2 improved dramatically with the convexing. One of course needs to keep in mind that a thin edge will not stand up to as much abuse as the thicker edge would.

Mazaki does a great job with the HT - enjoy your new knife 👍

I did too

The cutting video will be happening soon (I know that it is a poor excuse, but I was waiting to get a package in some really thick cardboard box 😁), but there is already a follow up video (Part 2) that shows the finished blade.

@@matusknives I have seen the second video already. I rewatched this one because I remembered you talked about the CBN rods. No worries...i do that as well...wait to get the chance or materials to cut so I can test. I was wondering whether to also modify a blade like you did. I have 1 serrated "rescue" knife. A Byrd. but the edge angle on that one is quite small..about 15-17 dps on the show side and 10 on the other. I never use it....and am curious at how/when it would be a benefit to use a serrated blade

@@SpartanJohns I can try to address some of those questions in my next video, though I am not too experienced when it comes to serrated blades. I personally consider them a special purpose blades as there are tasks you definitely don’t want a serrated blade for - bushcrafting jumps to my mind.

I got mine from dictum: www.dictum.com/en/suehiro-cerax-eac/suehiro-coarse-shaping-stone-grit-100-710990

@@matusknives Thankyou

Thank you, I am glad you like it.

I also arrived here from SpartanJohns's channel! 😅!

@@SpartanJohns 😁👍

Finally I got around to make and publish a cutting video (see the Part 3).

Thank you. Yes, the blade took a beating and in hindsight it did not have to be that way. One could not only be more patient and careful, but also tape the blade above the serrations. That would have prohibited very most of those scratches.

@@matusknives Thanks!

Thank you for your very kind words. I may do a knife review here and there. Right now I am in a middle of fooling around with the Pacific Salt. I should have a new video coming in about a week I hope. But in general I don’t make super many videos as not that many knives go through my hands. But I will do my best :)

@@matusknives Great! Thanks!

Yes, to make sure that all the components are aligned. The final dowel will be glued into the handle later as it will be made to fit the tang of the given knife.

The knife has simply an excellen geometry for that and is also very thin behind the edge. There is next to no resistance when cutting onions.

@@matusknives Impressive. I have a couple quite thin knives but I've always found those cuts most difficult. Looks really nice.

How do you like the Bowie? I keep and use the Bowie, just love it and it is also very usable. But I have sold the Tuff - the handle gave me too much of a hot-spot where my middle finger lands and the blade was toot thick for my taste. I feel really sorry for letting it go as it is so smooth, well made and cool, but it would end up sitting in a box. But I guess I should finally make the promised full review of the Bowie :)

I can only agree :)