Goto another machine shop 500 for 2 heads is ridiculous let alone 1.

My mouse disappears when I get to the main menu and the resolution never matches my screen? Any suggestions

Perfect idea for a project with my son... Thnks

Very cool!

Nice work !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Are you going to show flow numbers from stock to what you have done

Jesus, u Aussie hero. I see where the Mad Max asthetic came from

Ok got the intake guides today did just like you said tomorrow exhaust side then just polishing them up I should be good to go oh yeah er visit metal in my left eye I had safety shield am still got it in there now I have a shield an safety goggles

I've done everything exactly the same, When I press on the clutch and the gas it wont go full, like just halfway through, also even If I'm not putting any inputs the thing goes automatically on the left side

Hey Doctor, Do you have any fuses like a 3A or 5A in between the IBTs and the actual motors? Do think I need any?

Thank you so much as I said before I’m doing a set of these heads right now I’ve done everything but the valves guides I ordered a longer bit going to be dining that soon thank you again very helpful

🎉

is this meant to be comedy. I'm assuming these are already damaged heads. there really aren't that many of those left, bit of a peice worth keeping or selling on to someone else . cheers

Aussie's belong in england not Australia.

That's an Australian 2v head.

Can you share simtool, please

No way, what mess. Don't touch anather ford engine.

Thank you again it just happens I’m doing the same thing 302 Aussie head porting can u ask what size valves you using

Thank you for this I was go into touch the valve stem area but now im going to clean it up

detonation? add more spark and adjust the timeing, alchol increases octane too. sounds like your timing was too soon into the compression stroke.

Good video thanks for doing.

Yahoo

Watched the whole series. Really good series. Been contemplating giving this a go but looks like a lot of work. I've had a set of AFD 2v heads on the shelf for 20 years. Probably time to put them on and save a lot of hours work. How many hours do you estimate the whole porting job will take?

Thank you sir for the info is there anywhere on these heads I need to watch for when porting I’m not going crazy just cleaning up cast an gasket match

I’m doing a set right now taking your pointer I’m not going over board just cleaning the casting flaws one question what to fill the heat riser hole in the exhaust valve

I am pinning this info at the top for all those who would like an idea of what might be gained doing this CC mod. I like the honesty and under-inflated data, that a back to back dyno run produced on a vehicle this combustion chamber mod was done to. Craig from Performance 351 Engines gave this example of what to expect from this chamber mod on a car that needed this done to control detonation and help with getting a better timing curve. Keep in mind, this is NOT a one shoe fits all mod and the results as far as power goes if this mod is undertaken, would be different based on engine combo's, displacement, deck heights etc. Here is an excerpt from my conversation with Craig about this mod, with an example of what was achieved after the chamber work. Craig - "I'll also highlight the areas on an actual head for you. Its a very simple mod and yes it can be done better, but bang for buck, for a home port job with no flow bench, it gets gains and detonation resistance. One particular car I did for example was an XY. It had a 351 stock bottom end and stock 302 heads, so compression was up there. A 2800 stally, stock factory iron 4 barrel intake, square-bore adaptor, 750 vac Holley, tri y 1-3/4 pipes and a 2.5" single exhaust. He was beginning to lose a cam lobe. I did a cam swap, (old cam was a Speed-pro CS173R). I fitted a crow cam 21649 and we dyno'd it. It made 265rwhp. It did suffer from detonation and I couldn't get a good timing curve into it. I talked him into removing the heads to do the chambers, as it also wept coolant at the front coolant passages. The heads were bone stock apart from valve springs and retainers. I did the quick chamber mods and a real quick bowl blend. The pistons were of course 20 odd thou down the bore, so quench was not optimal! Back on the dyno it made 282rwhp and took a good timing curve. Not big horse power, but ok from an essentially stock 351 with a mild cam. For a long time now I do the chamfers on any closed chamber head engine, even if I don't do any unshrouding at bore walls or any other porting at all".

What a waste of time.

Great stuff. And there’s also back and front cutting intake valves to increase flow. But not exhaust valves , coz direction of flow is the other way 🍻

What are great thing ! Did Craig mention what the hp gain would be around? Cheers Pete. PS this could be gidyup my f100 needs , the poor old girl only has a 302 🫠

I can tell you friend no's what he talking about because those chamber mods will make more power than any other mods

What fluid do you use in the trans?

Stock big port 4v’s flow 275 untouched not 240

Thank you I have a set I’m porting right now

I think these head are good because they give good compression, good flow,and good verlosity maybe better all round than the 4V head ,but lknow nothing not a mm

Looking forward to seeing this port job. Pls get rid of the music.

Great series thank you. Sorry if I missed this - is the list of materials covering what's needed for the frame for the complete 4 dof rig, or is there a further list required for the e.g. upper frame? of the 3 dof? I ask as there was no 40x40x3 angle in this list (there is however 40x40x3 box), and in Pt 11 you are using 40x40x3 angle. I know it's left over from the rail, but if that 40x40x3 angle is not on this list just not sure if other materials need to be found in other episodes. cheers

Sorry. But I don´t know if you answered this question yet, or I haven't seen it, but ... Have you tryed connecting your sim rig via simhub? And if yes how you go about it with two arduinos? I love your rig and planing to go the same route, but need to clear some things first. Thanks

“Sorry, I’m on call at the moment”😂

Fiberglass Fire Blankets work well for protecting work area (instead of leather Apron) Available from Repco/Super Cheap (or Aldi sometimes) they are not Expensive.

Good stuff mate, keep it low buck, do it yourself and do it your way 👍 Doing what you have done it a good improvement over the stock head. If you wanted to get some more flow you can scribe you head gasket bore shape onto the face of the head then unshroud the bore wall side of the intake and exhaust valve and do a quick basic chamber mod. - Radius the quench pad side of the exhaust valve, just a 1/4" radius about half way along the quench pad. - then about a 1/16" chamfer along the reast of the quench pad toward the intake side, then in the corner where the intake bore wall meets the quench pad put a larger chamfer in that corner as this area is a testy spot for detonation. - on the spark plug side of the intake valve radius the head face with a 1/4" radius then a 1/16" chamfer across to the exhaust side. That will pick up some flow and give good detonation resistance. Is quick to do and the flow benefit outweighs the small compression loss. You can of course do a lot more work in these areas but for time spent V gain that is quick and easy. If you have a lathe, get 2 old valves and skim the chamber face right down almost to the top of the valve seat cut so you can work the chamber with the cut valve in place to protect the seats. If you have no lathe, put the valves in a vice and get going on them with the angle grinder, need not be pretty as its only to protect the seats.

Look at pavtek cnc heads you may pick up some pointers on what they did

Neat to be working with Cleveland stuff that's NEVER discussed or seen in The States! Look forward to your procedure and results. Hope you follow fellow KZbinr, "DragBoss Garage." The Cleveland-centric channel.

302 heads with the smaller valves unlike a 4V head do not need deshrouding. You are just making the chamber bigger! All they need is the lightest of deburrs, the castings are generally very good. For stock or very mild use leave them stock. Stock valves are good for the very occasional 6000 rpm. Not sustained. They are fairly good for weight, EVL replacements are not near as good for shape and are heavy! I used Ferea 5000 which are a step up for shape and a good deal lighter. They are around '030" larger For performance use good stainless valves, convert to screw in studs, milder use use bolt on rocker conversions. use the correct spring for the cam with single groove retainers. For what they are they work very well Porting is more likely to lose power. IF you want more power go buy some 3Vs from CHI. And they are a LOT lighter!! Too many go long stroke. WHY? Everything is heavier on an already very heavy engine. May make more torque but that is it. 351 is a good bore and stroke. And for most racing is just uner 6 litre. I have used 302 heads on my IP 351 circuit car and it was around 430 real. Using only 6500, over that Clevos tend to fly apart! Ask the GpC guys from the 70s and 80s. Those 4Vs are good for power at 8500,, but the oiling is not. Use them as door stops!! While all 302 heads are small 'closed' chamber they got bigger. XAs range 58-60cc. XBs 60-62cc and XC on at least 64cc. Forget XC on, they are all stuffed. And will cost a good deal to repair. Guides are oval, valves are coke bottle shape and the valves have all burrowed up the ports. In short they are stuffed. You can insert, I would never recomend that. They all fall out and cause cracking as the seats are not that thick.. Using bronze guides will save them but not really cheap these days. The old using 4V351 valves in 302 heads will lose power. Guaranteed!. Std Valves are really too big. Look at a Chev. 2.02 valves, far smaller ports and smaller lift cams and they still make very good power. A stock 302C inlet port is larger than a med Chev raceport. Too big!! Look at a CHI 3V. Far smaller than factory but they have port velocity and make a LOT more power with a stock 302 size valve.

Looking forward to this.

Again - absolutely awesome video Kevin !... just for clarity and sanity, the guys sold all me the 4 motors they had in stock = ( left ) 2 x ZD1633L for traction / sway and 2x 1735R for the front as it was all they had at the time .. have i got versions required? or should i have a left and right version for the front and a left and right version for the back of the rig?

Thank you for the knowledge.^^

Very good tutorials. I would like to know why you don't use the new version of simtools. Greetings from Colombia.

Thank you for taking the time to share all your awesome videos man huge respect subscribed 07

I always find myself coming back to this sim.

Can we alternatively use the 100W motors ?