Got to go up in the attic and measure the depth of the insulation. Then for every inch of cellulose insulation use 3.2 for R value-6"=R-19. For blown in fiberglass use 2.5 per inch so 7.6" =R-19.

Doesn't matter GlennCoat is gone. It was the best stuff on Earth, but because it was more expensive contractors were not buying it.

Insulate but then buy a swamp cooler. Your climate it dry enough for evaporative cooling.

Yes, radiant barrier will make the space cooler because it retards the entry of the heat but will allow it too cool off at night because it isn't an insulator its a reflective.

We use the Sensible heat formula BTU's/h=cfm X 1.08 X Delta T through the furnace. Higher static will result in lower cfm but will also result in higher Delta T. Theoretically the BTU's/H output should remain close. However, this sounds like a video I should make.

Cooling 996 and heating 5248, If you wanted to calculate the cost for your heating take the 5248 and multiply by the square footage of your home (lets say 1500 square feet) and multiply by 10 (assuming a heat loss rate of 10 Btu/degree day) = 78,720,000. Natural gas is sold by the therm which equals 100,000 and let's say you are paying $1.50 per therm and you furnace is 82% efficient. We take the 78,720,000 and divide by 0.82 = 96,000,000 Btu's need for a season. Divide that by 100,000 Btu's per therm which equals 960 therms per season times your cost per therm of $1.50 = $1,440 per season. Note the heat loss would be just a guess. The best way to determine your heat loss is to do a load calculation. Here is a site that is free to use that you can do your own load calculation. www.loadcalc.net/

Thanks. I have a heat pump not gas. I’m confused looking at heat pump data sheets. A 2.5ton has a mbh rating of 15.4 at 15 degrees. A 4 ton has a mbh rating of 30 at 15 degrees. Why do they say a 4 ton is oversized? Why would I want a less efficient heat pump? They talk about short cycling, yet if a heat pump runs all day in cold weather they say it’s acceptable. How is being less efficient more acceptable? Can’t blower speed and cfm dictate how long a cycle is? A blast of hot air at higher cfm would short cycle, but lowering cfm would lengthen the cycle. I can’t wrap my head around why just due to the size of your house you’d want something that’s less efficient.

@@bryan9857 Heat pumps are rated at 47 & 17 degrees OSA temperature. Your average low temperature in Cincinnati is 28, 23 & 26 degrees in Dec, Jan, & Feb. When using a heat pump we need to calculate the load so that the unit is not sized too small or too large. As the temperature falls the heat pump removes less and less heat from the outside air. If we sized the heat pump for the coldest temperatures we would need a huge system. In colder climates like yours we usually install heat strips and size the system for Cincinnati I would size for a 34 degree temp and anything below than install heat strips. It's not really being less efficient it has less capacity. The efficiency does fall with the temperature. This is the COP coefficiency of performance.

It’s regularly been in the single digits and teens here. Rather than listen to a heat pump shake my house and listen to the resonance frequency that it makes, while it’s not even putting out anything usable, I’m paying to spin the heat pump, run the furnace and the heat strips, just to lose sleep due to the thing being so loud. I generally switch to all electric under 15 degrees for my sanity. This is all while heating a house to 63 degrees. HVAC techs say my like set length just happens to be a length that produce a lot of noise and vibration. Not only that they set it on pipes coming out of my block foundation house. I’d like to have someone put the new unit on a pad. But the average temps in the winter…we see weeks of nights with -5 to 15 degrees. I feel a heat pump that can’t keep up is just shortening its life span by running constantly and icing over and defrosting. I beleive I need a 3 ton unit but like I said, a 4 Ton is way more efficient at heating at 15-17 degrees. Mr cool universal the 2 ton can go down to -22, the 3 Ton is 17 and the 4 ton is 5. I don’t get why I wouldn’t go with the 4 ton even if it’s oversized for my house.

Be careful, jumping one out is only to see if it is the pressure switch and to temporarily check the rest of the operation of the furnace. Once the thermostat is satisfied it will shut down and not come on again because you have to manually jump it out each time.

@ repair tech showed up and showed me the fresh air intake had iced closed outside. I checked that but because it was a coaxial intake/vent system I only looked down the middle pipe. Didn’t realize the ice around the outside was an issue. Live and learn!

@ Problem with a plugged exhaust is that the furnace can start making CO in a big way caused by the plugged exhaust. That is why the pressure switch is there to prevent killing the customer. This is where checking the rest of the operation of the furnace. I would have put my combustion analyzer inside the flue and checked the CO levels in the flue gasses. More than likely it would have shown up as very high and maybe even spilling out from the furnace heat exchanger. Which could be very deadly. Again, jumping out a pressure switch is never to be left in that configuration as we could potentially kill someone.

12X6 box with 7" collar is a little large, I believe you would be better served switching to the 6X4 with a 6" collar. However, the proper register will also help. I would use a Shoemaker 950 sidewall register to throw the air. Without knowing the dimensions of the room I am not sure if I would swap out to the smaller box. If the register is too large you will not keep the airflow high giving you better throw so that you will get good mixing of air in the room. That being said, I hate patching so I would use the same box and use a 950 to get the best throw from the register.

Flame sensors don't go bad, if anything the ceramic can crack but they are just a steel rod. More than likely it would be the board if it cycled three times and the flame sensor was above 2 microamps.

We always did the testing after the signed contract. However, here in California we have the Quality Residential HVAC Services Program that pays me ahead of time to do all the testing and load calculation $700 and the customer is under no obligation. So, now we convince the customer to let us do all the testing. This sells jobs as no other contractor is doing this. This program came out a little over a year ago. If your in California here is a link to the Quality Residential HVAC Services Program. qualityhvac.frontierenergy.com/

@ thank you, I am located in Orange County California I will reach out regarding this program

Unfortunately I can not agree with you as I have owned this business now 33 years and our prices are fair, and yes I charge $300 for a run capacitor that only costs me $12. I made a video on this. Please watch. kzbin.info/www/bejne/nYKwfXSwpMyNqtk

@@baileysair I was talking about Canadian entities, but I am sure the Americans are no different. The dude came in the middle of the winter with ice and slush outside, he went to the attic of a new house where the heat ump is and within minutes he discovered that a wire was short in the outside unit, yet they were all new, then he told me he needed to change the transformer, I took the old one when he came down from the roof, then went outside and tapped the wires that were short, Total $780. I checked the transformer after he left and it was fine. I used to do the same trick when I was in engineering school, I used to fix TVs in my spare time, I had a bog full of TV lamps, use to change the lamp ( amplifier) even if the sound was ok, then put the older one in my bag and continue recycling, but in my time, I used to charge $5 to $10 regardless what I do to the TV, even to generate life into the tube, I used to increase the voltage on the cathodic tube but that only bought the client 6 months only, then he would need a new tube.

What you just described sounds like unscrupulous and crooked behavior. Unfortunately, for many hvac companies it's all about the sale. They have to sell something and in many cases overcharge. However, there are still many companies that perform a great service for a decent price. The problem is that you have to find that company. I would warn that the company that is advertising all the time, has the prettiest trucks will charge way more than their competition as they have to pay for all that advertising.

@@baileysair unfortunately in Southern California our prices will continue to go up. In the last year my insurances from work comp to liability to automotive have gone up 40%. Never had a claim on any of them it’s just the cost of doing business in California. I don’t even want to go into fuel, Office overhead and continue price increases on equipment. Consumers need to understand they want their contractor to stay in business so if there is a problem down the road, they will be available to fix it. The only way to do this is to charge a fair and reasonable rate. I can buy a capacitor for $12 but if I sell it for 12 I’ll be gone in less than six months. I’ve survived for 34 years in California. By charging fair and reasonable rates. But the advent of the Internet people can see the cost of parts, but they don’t realize the cost of operating a business in their particular location. I actually shared your video on pricing with my technicians so they could understand what goes into the cost of the repair. They didn’t understand why the $40 thermostat should cost for the $600 to a consumer. One of my technicians was insisting we should only charge $169.

You know I will make a video to see what happens.

Sorry, but no certification. However, the classes are geared toward continuing education units that you can use to maintain your NATE certifications.

Yes, you can take the webinar even if your not in California.

Thanks for the comment. Can you suggest some other videos I can make to cover?

Thanks for the comment. It's sad that many people spend over $20,000 to go to a trade school with all this free training out there, and in many cases, come out severely lacking the skills and knowledge needed. Don't get me wrong, trade schools are necessary but many leave tons out. These free classes may not give them all the knowledge they need but they reinforce and keep them current. If you know anyone in Central Valley of California that would like to make these classes let them know. Here is the link to the first class-gas furnaces. pge.docebosaas.com/learn/learning-plans/285/ihaci-gas-heating-quality-installation-maintenance-and-service-2-part-series-in-person-spring-2025

I know of several home inspection companies that have BPI certified analysts on staff that use a FLIR regularly to find leaks. They work! Thanks for the comment.

True, but we should always do a load calc. Most of the time here in the California central valley you are fine just replacing the system with the same size because most units are oversized by the contractors. In addition, now that we use variable speed it is not as much as a concern, not counting the extra cost for a bigger system. However, don't assume that the contractor that installed the original system actually did a load calculation along with a duct design. In 2006, I was the general contactor building homes in Copperopolis California for a developer. I had done the load calculations on these homes myself and specified the size of equipment. Unfortunately, my HVAC company was too expensive to do this project as I had a developer I was doing the homes for and I couldn't justify the expense of my company when several bids came in thousands less than my HVAC company. I picked a company out of Salida and used them for the HVAC. However, I was watching the owner of this company laying out the ducts in the home I had severe doubts because he would look at the room and I heard him say 8"or 6", he kept repeating this as he marked on the floor the size of the duct and where he wanted the registers as he moved around the home. I asked him how he knew the sizes as he didn't have a layout of any sort. He said "I have done this long enough that I know what size needs to go to each room". He didn't know that I had been doing HVAC for over 20 years at this time and had been doing true duct design using wright soft for almost 8 years. In the end I redid the duct design myself and insisted he change the sizes to the rooms to fit my design. He went ballistic even though this would negate any liability he would have for sizing the ducts. We got into it and I did the typical builder MO of telling him I would withhold payment unless he complied. That's when he found out who I was and called me up and asked "Who do you think you are Mitch some big F*****g developer?" In the end he complied and we switched to my company on the project after he finished the houses he had contracted to do. The best part after our run in every time I sent anything to him I would sign it Mitch Bailey BFG Which of course stood for Big Fu****g Developer. I don't think he ever caught on.

You're welcome, I appreciate the feedback.

Thanks for the advice, I tend to ramble a lot and rarely make a script. I will try harder in the future, thanks.

First, is this a 90+ furnace, if so the drain lines may be plugged and or the installers did not configure the drain lines correctly.

@baileysair the small rubber hose had a droop below the level of the inlet for the hose so I readjusted it so water wouldn't plug the line. I'm all good now thanks 👍

Bosch is coming out with an air handler next year that is field switchable from 120v to 240v.

It's DC not AC

@@baileysair I imagined so. Thank you.

@@carsongrosche6375My pleasure, do you have any suggestions for my next video?

Scotch bright ads are great so they don't score the flame sensor. Does it matter that you have the amp clamp around two wires?

@@baileysair As a viewer, I would say that I enjoy suspect component troubleshooting and the reasons why, that is then backed up with 100% definitive evidence. This video pretty much hit the mark. I'd suggest similar videos with a range of components.

Thanks for the like

Please suggest some more videos you would like to see, thanks

The problem is finding one.

With Microsoft 356 subscription you get Word, Excel, PowerPoint, and a bunch of other apps like Microsoft forms. When you make your form make it accessible to everyone. Then make a QR code to access it to give your people and every time they handle refrigerant they just scan the code with their phone and submit a new record.

@@baileysair Hi, thanks for respond me. I have I just did my copyn you questions, but was not working because was made from you, so i just change the question and work great for me. Thank you very much for you tips. Grat work.

There shouldn't be any grease as shaft and squirrel cage is the only things inside the housing. However, sometimes there is moisture that can get into housing and that can have something biological grow in the moisture and seem like grease. Most of the time we find spider webs and sometimes a white substance that is like a scale that comes from the moisture in the flue gasses.

First if the filters were plugged then there is a chance that the coil, if it has cooling is also plugged and should be cleaned. If it is the upper limit (main limit for the heat exchanger) those are always auto-reset and should reset when it cools off. If it doesn't then it has probably worn out from constantly cycling open and close and needs to be replaced If it was like the one in the video, then it is a flame roll out switch and has a manual reset.

@anthonybiegen4221 pooky is an industry name for duct mastic. We seal duct joints with the mastic, which stops air leaks.

@FinnyG47 You easily saved more than $200. I don't disparage DIY because in many cases we get a service call out of it.

Insulation is not a bad thing for a garage. The problem is that most people believe that the garage will be cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. But garages are unconditioned and will get cold in the winter and hot in the summer. In summer, once the temperature drops in the evening the garage will have warmed up and will take much longer to cool off. In cold climates insulating a garage can be beneficial to keep pipes from freezing that are in those spaces. However, once they get cold they will stay cold for a longer period. If condition the space by putting a small heater in it, then it makes sense to insulate. In you instance it wouldn't hurt to insulate above the furnace closet as that will temper the space, thus using less energy as the furnace will not be in such a cold room.

@ Thank you SO much! Should I use blown in since it’s a smaller area? If I did faced insulation for the rest of the attic floor would it help with airplane noise reduction? Big problem in my area

@@TejsWorld Insulation will make the room quieter. I would use blown in as it is easy to blow yourself. Home Depot and Lowes will loan you the machine if you buy the insulation from them. Batts are harder to install correctly because you have to cut the batts to go around wires and framing, while blown will just fill the voids and gaps left behind when you use batts.

@@baileysair Thanks again man! There’s also two spaces over the furnace area where the drywall is missing from the attic floor and nothing below it but darkness. How would I go about repairing that? I see styrofoam pieces covering it as a band aid I guess. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Yes, we should be wearing a mask because of the dust as this was cellulose insulation, chopped up newspaper. Can't be good to breathe it in.

@baileysair a serious ty though! As a service tech, I love getting reminders on these procedures. I learned 2 or 3 things from this video!

I wear mine almost 80 percent of the time. You only get one pair of lungs

@@PacificWestwest Yes you are right, the best health care plan is a self-care plan.