If you have a conical fermenter, you can dump cold break and yeast sediment, a practice every brewery uses to improve beer quality. For homebrewers without conicals, racking beer off the sediment achieves the same goal, removing compounds that can affect flavor. While improper transfers risk oxidation, skilled homebrewers using anaerobic techniques at strategic times can produce cleaner, clearer beer with better flavors, matching professional standards.

I sometimes use a spunding valve as an airlock. Since spunding valves are one-way, wouldn’t this be a way to cold crash O2 free?

If there is still slow bubbling after 14 days in a second fermenter, and temp. was well controlled, and everything seemed to go well, can this bubbling be off gassing and not further fermenting?

Im gonna brew this during the holidays. Sometime between christmas and new year. Love the content. Im doing this on a Grainfather and with a stainless steel fermenter that my kids bought me for my birthday. Really excited. Thanks for the great video. And hope you keep going.

So, revisiting this, as I had managed to seal the barrel 1st time round. But have just put a 2nd batch of beer in and I am having terrible trouble getting it to seal 😞. Perhaps it is the case that if reusing, you can only fill to below the bung line. There is also the issue of removing the bung, which is no easy task if you have been hammering it in to get a solid seal I know he now sells infinity barrels with a welded on port, which does away with the need for a wooden bung in the front, but those are more expensive on top of what already is a quite pricey product. I had a sudden brainwave though in thinking why not just punch a hole in the metal part at the top and seal with a silicone bung. This would do away with the need for a welded port? Alas i do not want to start messing around with something that may result with metal burrs or shards in my beer, so I may just have to be content with filling below the bung line, or more accurately, being OK with the fact that the barrel will leak until the liquid level gets to there of its own devices. Its a shame because the product its self is of brilliant quality, and the 1st batch of beer I used the barrel for has turned out brilliantly, so I want to sing from the hill tops that this is a great product for ageing beer in, and it is, it just has a few draw backs, that I think could be easily avoided, thoughts?

It Worked! I opened a bottle after a week, adding a bit of quality yeast I could tell it was working, but the proof is in the bottle. Lots of carbonation, a nice head, 6 to 6.5% ABV, perfectly clear. Needs aging, but success! Only 26 likes? over 2 years? Not right!

I love both the styles, good explanation. Cheers 🍻

Booo, Carlsberg go home. Stop buying British breweries and shutting them down. Stop brewing disgusting Carlsberg while you're at it too.

Great video. The key stories behind London and Dublin becoming the champions of these styles, was the ability if darkers malts to hide the poor quality water in these areas during the times that both City's pioneered this style.

I have heard many brewers who used the concentrated wort(LME with hops), like Cooper's, who did not use the included yeast. Unnamed yeast too. Everyone saying it is a generic ale yeast. I did not use it with my Coopers Dark Ale, nor did I use sugar. Added 1.5kg of light liquid malt. Well, most brewers know that liquid or dry yeast is to be kept refrigerated, so this business of sticking a package to a can, then sitting on shelves for who knows how long or how warm, is a poor practice, a poor product, IMO. It had been over 30 years since my last brew, Cooper's was new to me. No boil? Poor directions. Shit yeast! Not like the liquid malts I used in the past. I won't be buying another, no matter how good my Dark Ale turns out. That pack of yeast, stuck to the can, did get used for a 2 gallon experiment brew I posted about earlier. Seemed like everything was going well, but the yeast gave up and my bottles had to be opened and rescued, as there was near 0 carbonation. I see why most people prefer not to use the included yeast stuck to a can.

I just had this happen. A bit of a practice/experimental brew. The ferment went very well at first. I used a pack of Cooper's yeast that I did not use for the Cooper's ale kit. I think this yeast was the issue; gave up. I could see that there was very little sediment in the bottles so I opened one to test. Zero carbonation! I didn't know what to do but tried adding a bit of dextrose; foamed up and out of the first bottle. I did all the rest but much quicker closing the flip tops. Many days later, I still did not see any new yeast sediment in the bottom of the bottles ;-( Opened the test bottle; no carbonation. Yeast must have died. I really did not think adding a tiny bit more yeast would work, since the yeast needs oxygen to get started, but I had nothing to loose since I wasn't going to drink flat beer. I used the yeast I had planned to use, since my order had arrived. This is a high attenuating ale yeast, unlike whatever that was that came with the Cooper's ale concentrated wort. I just put a tiny bit in each bottle; what would stick to the dampened end of a finger. Today I opened the test bottle again, and it was carbonated, quite well actually. Now I am wondering if I have built bottle bombs lol Glad I only added about another gram of dextrose since the previous priming sugar didn't get eaten either. Tasted a bit bitter but it isn't done yet. This may still not go as hoped. There was a fair bit of pressure in this 3/4 full bottle. Popped really well. Head didn't last a long time but this time there was one lol I did not think the fresh & better yeast could ferment like this. Amazing. Had I watched your video first, I could have added the yeast alone, or added the yeast then sugar together.

why not take the airlock off and close it with a lid? i use a Speidel too.

Decent tutorial but even though the presenter saves the changes by depressing the power button, he doesn’t instruct one to do so.

What about an airlock with a red cap?

Everybody has an opinion about Starsan. You, on the other hand, have facts. There is no substitute for testing and data.

Which toast / char would you recommend if I added bourbon for a few weeks to a fresh Badmotivator American Oak barrel prior to aging a Russian Imperial Stout?

Hello, how do you handle the condensation in your basement?

How long would you age a nice stout - I have an infinity barrel I will putting in service soon, well, tomorrow. Looking for a lighter flavor impact.

A reason to use dextrose rather than sucrose is that sucrose needs to be broken down into two other sugars...glucose and fructose, I think. This is more work and slower for the yeast...at least, that is what I learned 30 years ago. Dextrose is a simpler sugar that the yeast can start on straight away.

just found this while searching for something to lube the spigot with, after i took it all apart in a completely different, much harder manner than you did.

Summary for reference 1. Avoid high-manganese hops for dry hopping (Columbus especially) 2-4. Avoid flaked oats, spelt, and unmalted grains because they have a higher manganese content 5. Undermodified malt can be a substitute for oats for haziness 6. Don't use cara/crystal malts because they oxidise fast 7. Use ascorbic acid in the mash to react with the oxidisable precursors before they can oxidise 8. Use hops in the mash (not explained in this video - converts bound thiols into free thiols which scavenge reactive oxygen species) 9. Use shorter dry hop periods (2-3) days and colder temperatures (<15C) to reduce manganese extraction 10. Be paranoid about letting oxygen in after fermentation starts 11. Use ascorbic acid (or any antioxidant) when kegging/bottling or pitch alongside yeast 12. When bottling, carbonate in the bottle 13. Use oxygen scavenging bottle caps 14. Store cold (still condition at room temperature)

What if you added a Campden tablet prior to cold crashing the brew? I heard that pushes out any excess O2. I just realized I called crashed most of my bruise with an airlock.

thanks for sharing.

I've been doing this secondary racking since i started brewing again 2 yrs ago, mainly to use a small filter on the syphon hose and into bottling bucket with mixed results it has to be said. Now thinking about trying pressure fermentation as it seems to be taking off, does the extra faff involved with such a setup really make a huge difference? Genuinely interested as I want more consistency.

I've only cold crashed twice, once was enforced when I had a boiler breakdown and the house was stone cold in February and the beer was amazing. The next one was recent and done purposely with a dry hop and left to cool slowly to around 4°c but the beer this time has a definite tang of berry flavour (not expected) i also used finings before bottling, clear beer but not the best.

No airlock is needed once fermentation is complete. When cold crashing, apply CO₂ to create positive pressure in your fermenter. This technique works with sealed fermenters like Speidel but isn’t suitable for open buckets. After cold crashing, use CO₂ to push the beer from the fermenter into your keg. Be sure to purge your transfer lines and kegs of oxygen beforehand by running CO₂ through them. A great purging method is to fill a keg with RO (or other filtered water) and sanitizer, then use CO₂ to push it into the next empty keg. This keeps everything ready for your next batch. Minimizing oxygen exposure at every stage after fermentation is essential. How you achieve this is up to each home brewer, but remember-even a small amount of oxygen can harm your beer.

What temp do you store mixed starsan at? I live in Arizona so in hotter parts of years I keep a pre-mix stored in the fridge

The recipe from the video doesn't match the recipe from the "more" section.

Kæft det feee! elsker dine videoer

Much obliged, my friend! I'm a beginner, but I feel an obsession developing! I'll be studying more of your videos, thank you for this channel! You're awesome, dude!

That is pretty much how I prepare my bottles for bottle conditioning. I've seen several videos in which they say this is a waste of time, and you should add it to the beer and then bottle, but that requires transferring it from the fermenter, and then bottling, which adds a further step to the process. I'll stick to doing it your way.

Thanks

Hi,new brewer here,I’ve done a few brews but not great results. Can I bottle and cold crash first or should I let the bottles sit at room temperature to carbonate and then cold crash them?

I've got this fermenting at the moment, it's at 1.015 after 7 days fermentation, waiting to see where it ends up.

If you ferment in a keg, you can cold crash the fermentation keg but just as a precaution you should pressurize the keg a little to make sure when the cold crashing reduces the pressure it's not sucking air in through the lid or other places.

I like your channel,very informative

I really want to thank you for all of the great and valuable tips in your videos! A few days ago I invited a lot of friends to a Oktoberfest party. As an experiment I brewed what I hoped would be something that looked like a classic märtzen and in best case was drinkable after a fair amount of real beer 😅 It was my first beer brew ever hence the low expectations. The result was beyond my wildest dreams and there isn’t a single drop of beer left. Wouldn’t have turned out this well without you 🙏

Thanks my brother, Would have been better if you did it in the video. Appreciate the insight. Don't be so shy, we don't bite. You are a specialist and posses specialist knowledge don't be shy. Im working on preparing a zulu beer in the next 48hours. if you are available please revert to me soonest. My kids birthday, meshing zulu beer, would appreciate your insight and possibly a friendship. Love that you and your familyy.. Much love from South Africa

hello, is your Doppelbock available in Keg form ?

I'd like to know what evidence there is that you can tell the difference between the different cold-crashing methods.

Looks like a great barrel! I’ve got a bunch of the smaller ones with whiskey and brandy in them and am considering getting a 5 gallon! My still is only 8.5 gallons, so it’s gonna take me quite a while to get enough white dog produced, but I’d like to fill one of these things soon!

Could you give me a pointer to ingredients ill need to craft something similar to beamish stout.?

Hi I only ended up with OG of 1.022. Maybe too much total water and bad grain crush. Used Windsor ale yeast after two days not sign of fermentation. Is this going to be worth carbonating

I've recently stopped cold crashing. I mostly make ales and I honestly don't see the point in it now. My bottles (I naturally carbonate) will CC in the fridge and my kegs will CC in my keezer.

@Beerstories are you still finding this a good reliable unit?

Looks really easy indeed! I assume you set the temperature controller of the fridge to maximum cooling?

Hi. Looks good. So you dry hopped with 2 days left to go in your 14 day cold crash?

Every time I've tried to make a dunkelweizen I end up with a noticeable tang. I will try again with tap only until I try any additional water adjustments. Thanks

Good episode! Practical and useful information 🍻

In North Germany we get water from an underground core from Norway. So here are no problems to produce sparkling water with CO2 canisters. We dont dringk alkohol, because it is a nerve poison, as you probably already know. Greetings to Denmark and stay healthy.