the best way to determine if your IPR is bad is if your truck exibits occasional poor throttle response. and sometimes cranks unususally long or doesnt even start. or you end up with a dead pedal randomly. also a choppy idle can be caused by it. now the only way to verify these issues and connect this as a concern is remove the IPR. (every time i remove a IPR i brake clean the entire backside of the engine where its at and blast it with a air compressor to prevent debries from getting in) and once the IPR is removed. check the screen if its got any hole or damage thats not supposed to be there you need a new one. just anytime dealing with the high pressure oil system always remember that the IPR is not a sensor. it gives no feed back its only commanded closed. by X amount. the only things to really look for in the High pressure oil system is the ICP sensor readings (and the truck can and will run and drive somewhat okay without the ICP working or damaged wiring) you may be on to something with the Hot no start. it could easily be a standpipe leaking. or dummy plugs. i rarely buy OEM ford motorcraft stuff. i replaced my standpipes and dummy plugs with www.amazon.com/Stand-pipe-Dummy-Plug-Powerstroke/dp/B07NVV1L3J and it lasted a very long time (no more leaks) until i had a aftermarket injector catastrophically fail and im now doing a engine rebuild. 2 years later and 30,000 miles.

Yeah I have, the electrical connection end is nothing more than a magnet sitting on a tube, it is able to rotate without damaging anything. So if it’s not pointing in a direction you like just rotate it until you do. Just crack it loose move the connector end 180 degrees or so from where it is (without turning the whole thing, just the connector end) tighten it up and good to go.

Or run it all the way in hand tight, back off until the plug is facing you, plug in your wire connector, then tighten it with the wires on already, making sure while it rotates past the heat sheild it doesn't snag it... it was easy this way❤❤❤

The turbo is water cooled

I have the same problem mine 2012

Did you fix it yet ?

@@alejandroibarra6433 I had to do a temporary fix. I live in Canada and it got cold so one of the gears in the system snapped. The gear which he was moving in the video would fall back and default to blowing through the front. In the end I got my hands in there and wrapped a stiff wire around the gear which switched the air back and forth. There was a small metal plate towards the wheel that I then latched the wire to so the tension would keep it from falling back to the face. I'll need to go back in and take the wire off to get AC in the summer.

Mine came with everything including new seal.

Yeah that's probably the source of the problem.

The one I put in the car in that video is still going. Almost 40k on it. It has worked great for me

Slight loss of power and dropped GPM

In February.. in Wisconsin

I would find it hard to believe the car would stall from a bad turbo, you would have no power but it would still run just fine. that could be a number of things if no codes come up....I would start with fuel system

@@kingmeat3055 ok cause I have a 2013 Chevy Malibu ltz turbo and it always stalls at red lights and my rpm idles up and down at park, I took it to the Chevy place and they said it was the turbo and I don’t have any codes except for and oil pressure switch

@@OhhThatsKo I would change that switch first...the oil pressure switch talks to the fuel system and can cause the fuel pump to run erratically.

I didn’t use any special wrenches

Anything is possible with enough cuss words and WD40. I’m sure you can..

I ended up wrapping a zip tie around it with the tail of the tie pointing up and it’s just enough friction to where it won’t move....

@@kingmeat3055 thanks so much for this video and your reply. I did it step by step and it has been working all week. I had to turn the large white gear until it locked into place to zip tie it but it worked thanks again