I have the same Leigh Super jig only super 12 as I only do small stuff. First this was an excellent demo. In regards to most questions I read here most all have the same answer to your problems, READ THE BOOK , READ THE BOOK , READ THE BOOK !!. Yes they are complicated to say the least but once you understand them it’s STILL complicated the first time you change from one dove tail design to another. Most every problem I’ve had is solved buy going back and reading through the section or even the whole thing over and over. You’ll find yourself saying, Oh HOW DID I MISS THAT !

Love your work . Can you help? where can I get copper tacks?

rip steve thanks for the years of tips and content

rip steve thanks for the years of tips and content

A T8 with all the accessories plus the new KS-123 angle setter for knives is the go. I like to use the T8 in conjunction with a fixed angle (adjustable) knife sharpener I built many years ago.

Thanks for this video. I cut my ply and my Bora just arrived, so now I know where I’m headed. 👍🏼

So instead of cutting through a finger, the blade underneath cuts through a metal stopper in way less than 5 seconds! Wow I’m amazed!

Great explanation! Well Done in your presentation. I now understand much better. Thank you!

Great video. I think those angled clamps are set like that to clamp the compound miters (and crown)

It's not loud too, especially if you had project that need to bed completed in the night. That why i choice manual hand drill.

There seems to be no better industry than separating hobbyists from their money. I get that all that hardware makes it easier to connect and disconnect your hoses. But did you ever just think of a section of hose that sticks out well past the frame with a suitable female port in it? Maybe five dollars worth of parts? It's what I've been using and I fail to see how this is any better.

Is bees wax good for rust prevention on the likes of planes?

Anyone seen a Toggle Clamp with a V-Channel as the clamping foot ?

My Bora edge guide is worthless. It doesn't clamp tight enough so the clamp moves while using it as a router edge guide. I ended up using a board with C clamps as a straight edge.

Thanks, ive been trying all evening to fit my square sided chisel in the guide.

I like the observation that this was made more as a display piece towards the end of his career. It is stunning and brilliantly designed, but doesn't seem like it would be much fun to actually work out of day to day. A little too perfect for that.

I have a couple of hand drills. One is a breast drill and the second is a small hand drill. It is an old American Manufacturing drill out of Greenfield Mass. I need a chuckle for it. I thought I found one but it is not correct. It is a strange thread size. I am not sure what it is. A 1/2 -20 is too big. Can you help me out. I am not looking for a historical recondition. I don’t really have any wall hangers. I use mine.

Can someone please make an inlay video for dummies. I am not getting this at all. To make measurements and confusing

I just ordered the miter trimmer and picture frame length measuring attachment. I'm looking forward to perfect miters and perfect frames.

Hallo! Ich möchte so einen Schraubstock haben. Wieviel würde so ein Ding kosten? Können Sie mir einen verkaufen und liefern. Bitte die Antwort mit Übersetzung schicken MFG

I’m curious to see the time difference between the Tormek and bench stones when applied to a well-maintained but used cutting tool. I fully expect that a power sharpener like the Tormek is going to be quicker than bench stones when doing an initial flattening and sharpen, or when redoing the bevel on abused tools. But for most of us, we aren’t having to recover from broken edges or reflattening backs.

Always a pleasure and a surprise to see the level of quality and dedication the Highland Woodworker put into their material. Interviewing and showing Daniel Clay's work is the perfect example. So much to learn in half an hour, it is insane. Very grateful for this channel and all the work they put into these videos! Sending many thanks and regards from London!

I am waiting for a Festool 18v toothbrush…in green of course.

Well done on the dovetail saw expertise.

Excellent gentlemen cheers 👍💪👍

Why didn't he need to flatten the back side?

Outstanding, informative video there partner.

Great video. What keeps the Prairie Dog from falling threw the hole?

hello, nice video. One question, please. Whwn you put the ring is the ring level with the plate? or there is a little margin? Thank you.

The video way is easier today with machined flat backs.Not perfectly flat but near enough. But with Old Sheffield blades you can see backs with rounded edges and along the chisel there can be a Twist.Lay the back on a diamond plate and you find a high spot near the handle and a shiny spot on one side of the bevel end ,diagonally opposite. If you rub down that high spot (with a dremel ) near the handle ,you can use the ruler trick the same way they use on plane blades . That will create a narrow 1.5 degree bevel with a straight shiny surface at the edge. So is that wrong? Compare it with a Japanese chisel where the handle is not lined up with the blade . Mostly the Japanese blade back can lay flat on the surface and the handle stays up out of the way. Japanese history shows that Wooden Houses were the normal thing and a chisel back flat on the surface was very useful . So a tiny 1.5 degree angle is not a problem .It`s a hand tool and not a machine component . Now , over some years with the video method the front end of the back will have developed a curve .Obviously ,because the front has been rubbed more than the rest of the back .It will create a curve . But with a 1.5 degree using the handle end as a guide the angle will hardly change . That`s a long term comparison .

Not impressed with mine. The MDF base is not flat. A lot of money for something I could of made. The only good bit is the router insert plate

We need an updated vid since this is 11 years old but still a great vid

Wonderful !

Wonder if LN will ever have their July open house again?

Two problems with this add on. One is connecting the 4 inch hose to the dust collector on the bottom of the saw. Terrible design IMO. Secondly is the dust panel has a 2.25 inch port that's connected to a 4 inch hose that's connected to the bottom of the saw. About a 2 foot run. If you use the 2.25 inch adapter on the back panel, you lose a lot of suction. The best setup is a 4 inch rubber coupler with a 2.25 inch reducer connected to the bottom of the saw. That puts your 2.25 dust collection real close to the bottom and improves suction. It also, limits the tilt on your saw if you need 45 degree cuts. I've tried 4 inch hose connections as well. They are better but not by much. This model has a lot of gaps for dust to escape before getting vacumed up.

Buenísima explicación.

I bought one yesterday....it's nothing but cheesy junk!

Short, sweet, informative.

was he putting his hand in that cold box first?

Thank you. This is the exact insert and track I've been thinking about using for my upcoming project. Your video confirmed that they are likely my best choice and your test layout is going to save me some time as well.

This is an old video but still 100% relevant. Excellent information here. Very informative and thorough. Nicely done.

Такое впечатление что в Китае сделано!Качество обработки металла безобразное

You make it look so easy. Expecting my first latge this week. Looking forward to hopefully getting ok on it

2:07

❤❤❤

Thank you so much for this great video... I was gifted the jig. Now I'm stoked to go out to my shop and put it to proper use!!!

if you rip bunch of 2x4, you will see a pile of dusts under the saw. I am disappointed with the contrctor saw dust collection.

Mine broke

Does Festool make sanding pads and/or pad savers for use specifically with Granat NET sanding sheets?

What about from the top of the saw