That’s the spec included with the Eagle rotating assembly.

Great idea. I actually tried that and it works great. A while ago I bought an auxiliary flow-through electric pump that I would use just on startup but I haven’t gotten around to installing it. Probably need to upgrade my original style fuse block with only 7 glass fuses first.

I’m only running a 225/60R15 on the rear. The 235 I had before stuck out past the fender and would rub.

I have a PerTronix D130700 electronic distributor with a steel gear.

Except for the defective lifter on first startup they are performing great.

Correction on my comment is the oil metering disc protrusion should be toward the pushrod allows the oil to pass through the small groove to the rocker. Sorry

Wow. Nice find. It makes sense the disc has to be oriented a certain way otherwise they would be flat. I could see how the disc could flip over during assembly if you weren’t careful.

After the motor I ended up replacing the entire front suspension and brakes. Now that I’m off work for the summer I can finally get to editing the video for that install.

I don’t think there’s anything available other than OEM. Unless the aftermarket gets involved it seems that OEM replacement parts continue to go downhill in quality and fitment as cheaper manufacturers find more ways to cut costs.

@@JohnLatrobe thanks…I’m considering just making up a Morse cable like the ones I use for my shifter and parachute release on my race cars…

For hydraulic lifters: 1. Set the #1 piston to TDC so both valves are closed. 2. If necessary, loosen the rocker arm nut until the pushrod is a little loose and rotates easily. 3. Rotate the pushrod while tightening the rocker arm nut until you feel the pushrod just start to tighten up. That’s zero lash. 4. Tighten the adjuster nut an additional 1/2 turn to set the preload. (Check the manufacturer’s recommendations) 5. Rotate the crank 90 degrees and repeat the procedure on the next cylinder in the firing order.

Absolutely

I thought it was the top loader?

The long parts list is in the description.

I was shining a light down the intake port above the lifter valley which also lit up the underside of the pushrod hole.

I honestly didn’t measure the side play. Next time I pull the valve covers I’ll check it.

Yes, place both in neutral and then set the clip to lock in the adjustment.

I calculated 3.70 based on rpm vs mph

@@JohnLatrobe nice !

I had already replaced the bushings so this is the second time they had failed. I don’t want my wife getting stranded somewhere so I feel better replacing the whole cable.

I got a 302 sbf

Total Control Products website says it also fits 60-65 Falcon and Comet.

Awesome thanks 👍

Ford roller blocks use large base circle cams, whereas earlier non-roller blocks use cams with a small base circle. In addition, the roller block lifter bores are longer since roller lifters are longer than older flat tappet lifters. So, in order to run a roller cam in an early non-roller block you need 2 things. 1. A small base circle roller cam (not a flat tappet) called a roller retrofit cam 2. Retrofit roller lifters designed for non-roller blocks. Standard roller lifters are too tall for the lifter bore and can expose the oil port at high lift. You can use lifters that require dog bones and a spider tray, or lifters with link bars. Roller cams don’t require additives or a break-in procedure like flat tappets do. Also, you should measure for the proper pushrod length so that the rocker arm is perpendicular to the valve stem at mid lift.

@@JohnLatrobe - Please help with more info - very new to 289 engine and based in South Africa ( just bought a 1967 mustang coupe, manual). What cam that is like a HIPO cam meets the criteria (roller retrofit cam) 2)Do the stock pushrods work, and the stock rockers 1.6 ratio. Will I need to put in ARP studs for reliability and peace of mind, as lift could stress stock studs) 3)have heard bad stories of normal cams and hydralic lifters ( non roller) - not running in properlly, given I am in SA, I haveto import everything, so could not afford a defect or a bad run-in. 4)Is the run-in process with roller retrofit cam and matched roller hydraulic lifters, much simpler. or still a 200 rpm for 30 min exercise? and also special oil / more zink additive etc.. Tks John for your help

@@user-wm1ft7bj8w You can search on the COMP Cams website for 289 roller cams and get the specs to compare to their HIPO grind, but flat tappet and roller cams specs don’t really compare directly. Flat tappet lobe profiles are limited in how steep they can be so roller cam lobes can open the valve faster. If you look at the 284HR cam specs for example, it has slightly less duration than the HIPO cam, but much higher lift so it probably flows better. Just my opinion… 2) Anytime you’re using non-factory parts it’s a good idea to measure for the proper pushrod length in order to achieve the proper rocker arm geometry. If your heads have pressed-in studs you’ll definitely want to upgrade to screw-in rocker arm studs. 3) The failure rate of flat tappets during break-in is exactly why I chose to convert to a roller. 4) Roller cams don’t require any special run-in procedure or zinc additive. Just some proper assembly lube.

Sorry, mine doesn’t even have the lights so no bracket. Maybe this will help: 1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/57989-back-up-light-switch-69-vs-70/

I’m not at all concerned. COMP Cams wouldn’t sell so many kits if there was a big risk.

there's enough roller block low deck Windsors around to be had, I'd think it's cheaper in the long run to grab one rather than do the swap. you will have to keep track of the flywheel weight since Ford changed the crankshafts in the 1980's. And youtube is full of videos saying flat tappet cams have a problem with wiping out camshaft lobes, with competition cams running into the issues with cheap (speed pro?) lifters having bad machining from the box.

me neither.

We just need a flux capacitor

Back in the Vietnam days, folks did do stroker low deck Windsors...they pulled a truck crankshaft from a Y block Ford, and had it machined down to fit and make a 327. but you'd have to wait until 1967 for Tunnel Port heads, an over-the-counter precursor to the Boss 302. And there was a Paxton supercharger option if you weren't really worried about a stock looker. Or a Weber carb setup (think Cobra) and shift at 7,000 rpm. at least you'd have the gasoline for all that compression ratio right at any Sunoco 260 pump.

Best summary ever! 🇺🇸🏁🏴‍☠️

IDK. It would be hard to route the cable. Maybe you could tie the new cable to the old one and pull it through but if I tried to do that it would definitely snag on something.

that was quite a big clunk going from N to D at the end. Whats happening there?

The casting is D1ZM so it’s a 1971 casting, made in Mexico block. Ford used the same casting from 1971-1974. I believe you can use front or rear sump on the same block with the correct oil pickup tube.

Looking at Holley’s website, the arm stamped 2108 and appears to be the shorter arm, is the 3-4 arm. The 1-2 should be stamped 2723. These are what came with my car and probably different for other applications.

@JohnLatrobe Thank you Sir.

The Lisle 15000 came with coarse grit (80) and medium (180). I started with the coarse and followed up with the medium, and then the ball hone. The Lisle cost me $150 at the time; I imagine I could get half that much for it used.

Jeff, thanks for the positivity. I could never understand why people enjoy being trolls. They must really be miserable inside. I’ve taken lots of videos on the new suspension install. Just need to edit them.

@@JohnLatrobe agree on your assessment 100%. I can’t wait to see those vids. I went the OpenTracker myself. My car should be done in the next couple months. 4.5 year project. It’s been quite a journey.

You can see the motor mounts in the car in the next video, part 27.