I should have weighed the entire kit before hand so I could compare to the stock components. As massive as the subframe plate looks it only weighs 13 pounds.

Hey that’s funny! Now that I’ve finally got the brakes sorted out you might see me around.

I’m not sure what that is.

@@JohnLatrobe I believe that Ford used the Borg Warner T-10 4-speed tranny in the Mustang up through 1965, since they couldn't produce enough toploaders for production needs. The H ratio would be the one in your car. I am guessing that perhaps it was changed out prior to you getting the car?

My data plate says transmission code 1 which I think is a 3-speed but that was swapped out long ago. The tag on the old toploader case says HEH-BT which is a 1965 Mustang close-ratio. I’m guessing that the engine and transmission were picked up as a “package deal”, miss-matched rods and cracked case included.

I used to go to a lot of the local shows but haven’t been in quite a while. Too many other distractions and not enough time. I recorded these videos last year and finally got around to uploading. I’m so bad…

@@JohnLatrobe Understood! I have the same issue!

The newer blocks don’t have the mounting boss for the clutch linkage (z-bar) that I need.

Total Control Products. They also make an adjustable mount so you can slide the engine forward or back.

That’s the spec included with the Eagle rotating assembly.

Great idea. I actually tried that and it works great. A while ago I bought an auxiliary flow-through electric pump that I would use just on startup but I haven’t gotten around to installing it. Probably need to upgrade my original style fuse block with only 7 glass fuses first.

I’m only running a 225/60R15 on the rear. The 235 I had before stuck out past the fender and would rub.

I have a PerTronix D130700 electronic distributor with a steel gear.

Except for the defective lifter on first startup they are performing great.

Correction on my comment is the oil metering disc protrusion should be toward the pushrod allows the oil to pass through the small groove to the rocker. Sorry

Wow. Nice find. It makes sense the disc has to be oriented a certain way otherwise they would be flat. I could see how the disc could flip over during assembly if you weren’t careful.

After the motor I ended up replacing the entire front suspension and brakes. Now that I’m off work for the summer I can finally get to editing the video for that install.

I don’t think there’s anything available other than OEM. Unless the aftermarket gets involved it seems that OEM replacement parts continue to go downhill in quality and fitment as cheaper manufacturers find more ways to cut costs.

@@JohnLatrobe thanks…I’m considering just making up a Morse cable like the ones I use for my shifter and parachute release on my race cars…

​@michaelgreen7028 how did that go? Had the same idea I was playing with

@@cameroncastillo333 i haven’t found any better solution than the OE assembly but I’m open to suggestions…

For hydraulic lifters: 1. Set the #1 piston to TDC so both valves are closed. 2. If necessary, loosen the rocker arm nut until the pushrod is a little loose and rotates easily. 3. Rotate the pushrod while tightening the rocker arm nut until you feel the pushrod just start to tighten up. That’s zero lash. 4. Tighten the adjuster nut an additional 1/2 turn to set the preload. (Check the manufacturer’s recommendations) 5. Rotate the crank 90 degrees and repeat the procedure on the next cylinder in the firing order.

Absolutely

I thought it was the top loader?

The long parts list is in the description.

I was shining a light down the intake port above the lifter valley which also lit up the underside of the pushrod hole.

I honestly didn’t measure the side play. Next time I pull the valve covers I’ll check it.

Yes, place both in neutral and then set the clip to lock in the adjustment.

Do you not understand the oil pump starts pumping oil as soon as the engine spins over by the starter or it running? Do you think the oil pump only works when the car is running? Seriously? That is the best way to pre oil the engine before you start it.

I calculated 3.70 based on rpm vs mph

@@JohnLatrobe nice !

I had already replaced the bushings so this is the second time they had failed. I don’t want my wife getting stranded somewhere so I feel better replacing the whole cable.

I got a 302 sbf

Total Control Products website says it also fits 60-65 Falcon and Comet.

Awesome thanks 👍

Ford roller blocks use large base circle cams, whereas earlier non-roller blocks use cams with a small base circle. In addition, the roller block lifter bores are longer since roller lifters are longer than older flat tappet lifters. So, in order to run a roller cam in an early non-roller block you need 2 things. 1. A small base circle roller cam (not a flat tappet) called a roller retrofit cam 2. Retrofit roller lifters designed for non-roller blocks. Standard roller lifters are too tall for the lifter bore and can expose the oil port at high lift. You can use lifters that require dog bones and a spider tray, or lifters with link bars. Roller cams don’t require additives or a break-in procedure like flat tappets do. Also, you should measure for the proper pushrod length so that the rocker arm is perpendicular to the valve stem at mid lift.

@@JohnLatrobe - Please help with more info - very new to 289 engine and based in South Africa ( just bought a 1967 mustang coupe, manual). What cam that is like a HIPO cam meets the criteria (roller retrofit cam) 2)Do the stock pushrods work, and the stock rockers 1.6 ratio. Will I need to put in ARP studs for reliability and peace of mind, as lift could stress stock studs) 3)have heard bad stories of normal cams and hydralic lifters ( non roller) - not running in properlly, given I am in SA, I haveto import everything, so could not afford a defect or a bad run-in. 4)Is the run-in process with roller retrofit cam and matched roller hydraulic lifters, much simpler. or still a 200 rpm for 30 min exercise? and also special oil / more zink additive etc.. Tks John for your help

@@user-wm1ft7bj8w You can search on the COMP Cams website for 289 roller cams and get the specs to compare to their HIPO grind, but flat tappet and roller cams specs don’t really compare directly. Flat tappet lobe profiles are limited in how steep they can be so roller cam lobes can open the valve faster. If you look at the 284HR cam specs for example, it has slightly less duration than the HIPO cam, but much higher lift so it probably flows better. Just my opinion… 2) Anytime you’re using non-factory parts it’s a good idea to measure for the proper pushrod length in order to achieve the proper rocker arm geometry. If your heads have pressed-in studs you’ll definitely want to upgrade to screw-in rocker arm studs. 3) The failure rate of flat tappets during break-in is exactly why I chose to convert to a roller. 4) Roller cams don’t require any special run-in procedure or zinc additive. Just some proper assembly lube.

Sorry, mine doesn’t even have the lights so no bracket. Maybe this will help: 1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/57989-back-up-light-switch-69-vs-70/

I’m not at all concerned. COMP Cams wouldn’t sell so many kits if there was a big risk.

there's enough roller block low deck Windsors around to be had, I'd think it's cheaper in the long run to grab one rather than do the swap. you will have to keep track of the flywheel weight since Ford changed the crankshafts in the 1980's. And youtube is full of videos saying flat tappet cams have a problem with wiping out camshaft lobes, with competition cams running into the issues with cheap (speed pro?) lifters having bad machining from the box.

me neither.

We just need a flux capacitor

Back in the Vietnam days, folks did do stroker low deck Windsors...they pulled a truck crankshaft from a Y block Ford, and had it machined down to fit and make a 327. but you'd have to wait until 1967 for Tunnel Port heads, an over-the-counter precursor to the Boss 302. And there was a Paxton supercharger option if you weren't really worried about a stock looker. Or a Weber carb setup (think Cobra) and shift at 7,000 rpm. at least you'd have the gasoline for all that compression ratio right at any Sunoco 260 pump.

Best summary ever! 🇺🇸🏁🏴‍☠️

😂 LOL when we can time travel hit me up I will go with you! Wouldn't that be a kick in the butt! That's back when men looked like men and the ladies looked like ladies....

I am actually doing just that, Steve, only using the original Hipo heads! Might not get quite to 500hp, but its sister 331 engine, with the identical ported iron heads, made 468hp at 6500rpm and 428lbft-torque from 4700-5000rpm on a 4v intake and carb! Stout little 289/331. You can read about it on the Yellow Bullet forum; search for "Street Boss 302 machine work, build and dyno." It is near the end of the thread; first post is April 3, 2024. Only three sets of these heads exist: the first set won 2nd place at the 2019 Engine Masters, I have the second set, and the ones I mention on the 331 above are the third set. Interestingly, the first set was done with standard 1965 SBF heads, not the Hipo. They flow 232 at .600 lift intake and 181 at .600 exhaust, which is outstanding for an iron head cast in the summer of 1964!