Great work

I used to own one of these years ago oh how I wish I still had it

These bikes do not look as attractive as previous models. It’s no wonder that Norton outsold them. The late sixties Bonnevilles and Lightenings were nice looking.

A few thoughts from my experience with the '71 Lighting: 1 The Lucas points from period were soft, especially the plate and screws and really made down to a price. They were really working beyond their limits on these high revving bikes. Same goes for the A/R unit. I strobed mine and was horrified at home much the timing jumped about above 5000 rpm. 2 Absolutely use the timing pin as its about the only accurate thing you have to get a starting point. 3 Rub black paint in the lines on the rotor. 4 The 90deg relationship is fixed by the crank so once you get that set move the whole back-plate, don't go moving each point. 5 Get period electronic ign. I fitted a Lucas RITA and it transformed the bike. The strobe line went from a fuzzy blur to pin sharp with a smooth advance all the way to 3000 rpm. The engine was much smoother and much more powerful. The RITA uses a reluctor so all you need to do is get one machined up at 90 deg, there's no A/R and the back plate just has the trigger coil so there's lots of space. You can static time the RITA (there's a little tool) with the crank pin in place and it will be pretty close. 6 if you are really struggling with the over advance there may be different length links for the A/R pins, these are used to adjust the advance range.

Hi Angus nice to see the spanners out on the Fury.i am I a muppet or shouldn't you have the auto advance unit locked to full advance when setting the static timing?(Assuming your rotor markings are set at something around 3/8" BTDC).Enjoy your holidays!

Always enjoy your efforts Angus. Good day and God bless you and your family.

Angus, I had a similar problem years ago with my A65T and found out eventually that the cam was one tooth out. Might be worth checking the whole timing side out

Very interesting ! Enjoy your break, I’ve just been away with the family for a few days and looking forward to getting back on my bike again for the first ride since Founders Day.

The fun is never ending with older bikes 🤔

Some great machines on display.

Would have been nice to hear them.

Have you got a fork oil seal leak? There were many wrong seals fitted to these forks. Right size but for a rotary application. Design specification cock up.

Now that is some Rocket III from george Pooley! Beautiful engineering and just goes to show what BSA/Triumph could have done back in the day.

Best video I've seen, I really needed the camshaft installation details. Thanks!

Sheesh, that's one enormous rally. Fantastic. Brings a lump to the throat and a tear to the eye!!!

I bought a 71 Lighting new in that metallic Orange. It was a "tonic/2tone" colour and would change its appearance in different lights. I never worked out out exactly what it was but the base, flake and lacquer were all different. After about 5 years of ownership when the paint was worn on the tank I repainted it black and gold, it had a new frame which arrived black so that decided it. The seat height was 1" lower too!

You asked for anecdotes. Considering I left BSA in1974 and have had ittle to do with them since, this might be common knowledge. Why are the frames grey and not silver? Why do Ariel 3 wheels have tack welds between the rim and hub? I can think of plenty of others as I had a free run of BSA/Triumph for a few years.

Are the white frames original spec?

Good group of bikes.

Hi Angus, it was good to say hello albeit briefly as you were in the queue to go into the arena. I must say your A70 sounded as sweet as a nut ! I did wonder about your lack of appearance in the arena on the Fury but you’ve explained that in the video. We saw the Jubilee Bonneville and the grey framed Rocket in the bike park that you filmed, there are usually one or two oil in frame Lightnings there but not this year. I think I read a while ago that this years theme was 70’s (Japanese?) but I’d completely forgotten about that, however it makes sense as there was more of a Japanese flavour in the club stands and in the bike park. My brother didn’t go on his BSA S30 this year but took his 1976 Gold Wing of which there was a similar one in the bike park, other highlights there included a Suzuki Stinger, a bike I’d never heard of, an immaculate original green Z650 and a very nice CB750F1. In the main area there was a silver GT380 which you also videoed, along with a GT550, bikes that were very common in the late 70’s, plus various Kawasaki triples, Yamaha RD’s, a Honda CJ250T (I haven’t seen one for possibly 40 years ?) and I’m sure I saw a CB350/360 from a distance but I didn’t see it closely enough to tell which model it was. Thinking about it there were a lot more 70’s vintage two strokes there than Japanese four strokes of the same era although there was an example of the bike I started on, a CB100N !

Pile of rusty junk what a shame

6:30 Converted to right-hand change. Well, hats off to whoever did that. Gear lever back in the right and proper place and gives the motor a much cleaner look.

Beautiful video.

BSA Fury would have been a disaster. 100000 sets of parts ordered. Development far from completed. More expensive to make than the 650s. Prototypes very unreliable. Overheated if not run rich. Less than 40mpg. I was there.

It should've been the BSA Bandit and the Triumph Fury. Not the other way around. Just goes to show how screwed up the BSA Management was at the time.

I'm still agog at how gorgeous that A70 is and that it runs so well especially after considering what a horridly abused carcass of a bike you started with. I'm still jealous and and kick myself that it remains one of the bikes that "got away." Thanks for posting and be well.

That Lightning is a beautiful colour, not many bikes would suit it

When bikes were PROPER! 🤗

Angus, when you have as many bikes to look after, you should keep a log book so you know when you've drained the oil and any other work that will need to be done before its used again. I leraned the hard way some years ago.

This video is certainly hot off the presses ! Friday was too hot 🥵for me but hopefully we’ll get some good weather on Sunday !

Now I know where Yamaha got their idea of Popsicle Purple for the FS1e.

Brilliant, so fantaastic that you got her running.

Looks good to me.

Hi Angus,Just seen the video of the B25 SS paint work,That side panel does look good. Now got the width for the front strip thats, great as can now get it painted to factory spec thanks for your help.

That panel really stands out. Love it! I did notice that the front brake needs a bit of an adjustment, the two arms are both pointing inwards so you won't be able to get proper leveage on the front brake

Hello Angus. The Silver Jubilee has a threaded deep nut that holds the inner black air cover on and then a large chrome Pozi drive screw fixes through the outer cover for retention as well as the springs. Check your Siver Jubillee supplement parts manual for what your missing. Cheers!

Hot tip when using a tape rule! Never measure from the end? When you want to be precise, measure from 2c to 5c in this case, doing it this way makes it easier to see, 🇬🇧👍.

More work ahead then on the 250SS !

When you shimmed crank float why not check main bearing clearance ?

Hi Angus ... as commented in Part 1.. I had similar problems with RS paint spluttering. I now notice in Pt.2 that you are using COB solvent paint though and my main problems was with WB (water based), which they also sell. Did you get the application sheet with the paint from RS? They basically tell you to do two light coats followed by a heavier coat and to flash off in-between by using a hairdryer. I found this a cracking bit of advice and got good results with the COB paint. I still find the aerosols from paint factors a better paint delivery though (never had any spluttering with those) and much cheaper. RS uses Lechler paint which is classed as 'medium' quality by the pro's I have used. Also, a couple of pro bike painters I know of buy a single aerosol can from RS and do a spray out card with it and then get it scanned with a paint spectrophotometer and then have a litre of paint mixed up from the resultant formula. (free scan at my local paint-shop as long as you buy paint from them). Typically 1 litre of paint thins to 2 litres and costs about £40. RS paint is pre-thinned and I don't need to tell you how much RS charge for 2 litres of paint ! Keep up the good work and spot on that you are having a go yourself !

I feel your pain with the paint spluttering right at the end. EXACTLY the same happened to me with rattle cans from the same company's products on a Honda side panel. So annoying and morale deflating, right at the end of a what should potentially have been a perfect finish. It turned out they sent me WB (water based) paint. It was definitely the quality of the rattle can, as the first can they supplied sprayed out OK. I contacted them and they sent me a couple of spare nozzles, told me to heat the can in hot water (which I had done already) and agreed to supply another can if I bought another can. All in all, not impressed, so I switched to their COB (clear over base) solvent version and that went on a lot better without spluttering. I have to say that for other bikes I have used custom mixed aerosols from Paints4U in Grimsby at about half the cost and got a super finish with those. For clear-coat I use 2K-in-a-can Spraymax Gloss (German) and this product is absolutely superb ... as good as my Devilbiss mini-gun finish. Contains isocyanate though, so you need an air fed mask plus you have to use the can after mixing within a few hours. The spray pattern, finish and delivery right to the end of the can is awesome.

Angus, when doing these spray jobs always leave at least 24 hours after spraying for the paint or filler to dry as that prevents sagging. The thicker the coat, the longer you need for it to dry. Panels like that I generally leave for two or three days just to be on the safe side

Hi do you use British Only Tech Library, Really useful if you have not heard of it

It’s coming along nicely. It’s not a surprise that you will come across bits that are bent or missing fittings. I’m sure you will suss it out though.

Bike is looking nice, will be beautiful!

Hi; some new Triumph s have those snorkels and some owners removed them. -How do you obtained such color on the calipers? Or did you dismantled completely and vapor blasted them? -Can you show all the routing of the electric harness? Mostly around oil reservoir. PO in this bike messed everything also missed many things. Then he redid parts of the harness but all none sense. ---The T140E do not have that big screw on the side covers Thanks

I meant to say after the previous video that this bike is looking really good on the bench, I’m sure once finished it will look as good as new (or better !). Light renovation ? 😂🤣

Glad you found the air intake tubes, but they are still not quite right. The tubes should pass through the filter elements so that the flange sits against the outboard side of them, rather than between the element and the airbox. They are a bit fiddly to install, because of the angles, but that's the way they would have been originally. I also noticed that you don't have the hose clips on the airbox-to-carb hoses. These are bright zinc or nickel plated clips, secured with a screw. I did away with mine years ago and replaced them with cable ties, which grip better, because the original clips kept slipping off the end of the rubber, but you will probably want that one to look right

Normally, the filter element is retained to the bolt by a spire washer, which keeps the head engaged with the flats to stop it turning. You are missing parts from the air filter - on each side, there should be a rectangular section plastic tube, curving through 90 degrees, which is inserted though the hole in the element (which goes to the bottom), angled downwards, and passes through the opening in the air box, so that it picks up air from behind the engine. On my 78, they had made some improvements to the side panel fixings. The airbox cover is held on by a nut and special coil spring washer, which means you don't need to tighten it so much, but it doesn't have a retaining screw to hold the panel on - the back of the panels is moulded to hook round the frame tube, so you only need the springs at the front to retain it. I don't envy you, having to put right a bike you're not familiar with, when it has been bodged and butchered by any number of cowboys over the last 47 years. I was luck with mine, it hadn't been molested when I bought it 31 years ago, so everything was in the right place from the start. I'm sure your persistence will pay off.