Getting a 3d for Christmas. How could i get the files to make this? Thanks.
@plasmaDave18 күн бұрын
@@mattjudd5275 yes it's laser cut. You could possibly 3d print something similar but it would need to be in ASA filamemt or something due to the heat and UV on the dashboard.
@lukahlisc767022 күн бұрын
Thanks for YOUR time. And I hope to see more of your videos. ❤️
@plasmaDave21 күн бұрын
Thanks, I have more projects on the LR4 to come in the new year 😊
@scottguy545222 күн бұрын
I’m going to have a go a replacing mine with the aluminium ones
@plasmaDave22 күн бұрын
@@scottguy5452 hope it goes well, I was going to do that and then was put off by a mate who had received some warped ones.
@scottguy54528 күн бұрын
@@plasmaDave I got them on and they seem fine so far. I put in a new oil cooler and separator at the same time as I saw what happened to you. Your videos were a great help many thanks. In terms of tips for others I found that it was much easier to remove the old manifolds if removed all the bolts from them. I just used long nosed pliers. When I put the new manifolds on I used cable ties as you suggested but put them with the ratcheting side of the cable tie reversed so I could just slip them off later. Trying to cut the cable ties deep over the back on the driver's side was a bit tricky. I put a little high temp silicone into the sharp corners at the back because saw the existing one had been weeping over there. Getting the rear injectors out with a slide hammer I had was basically impossible so I ended up putting the slide hammer M14 nut onto the top of the injector and then levering the rear one up using the massive viscous fan holding tool. It's just there's so little clearance under the windscreen cowl.
@plasmaDave8 күн бұрын
@@scottguy5452 some good tips there 👍
@garagefaff23 күн бұрын
Brilliant help, doing mine this week, I'm right in thinking the only parts I really need are the Inlet and Injector seals?
@plasmaDave23 күн бұрын
@@garagefaff Pretty much yes, but things can break along the way and my throttle body has had the seals changed fairly recently.
@Michael-e8y3u26 күн бұрын
How much Co2 does 150w co2 laser tube cutting can consume
@plasmaDave26 күн бұрын
Hey there, not sure what you mean, it doesn't use up any Co2 it is sealed inside the tube.
@mattvideo1994Ай бұрын
Hey is this good for pipe leak detection behind walls and tiles?
@plasmaDaveАй бұрын
@@mattvideo1994 maybe but only if the water was colder or warmer than the wall. Not ideal I think.
@debbiesainsbury8490Ай бұрын
Very helpful video, thank you.
@plasmaDave16 күн бұрын
You are welcome. 😊
@plasmaDaveАй бұрын
It turn out that this was a crack in the lower side of the so called throttle body.
@Jack_LangeАй бұрын
Looks pretty handy
@plasmaDaveАй бұрын
It is working very well, doesn't look quite as new now mind you :)
@mattjudd5275Ай бұрын
Wow. Love the mount. Wonder if one could be made that has a hinge that rotates up and over so coild see both at same time if wanted to
@plasmaDaveАй бұрын
@@mattjudd5275 I guess that's possible, maybe a double hinge or something. In practice though I very rarely look at the old screen.
@greglivermore6700Ай бұрын
Brilliant video! 100% confirms I have none of the skills needed to fix my car!
@plasmaDaveАй бұрын
I'm glad you found the video helpful, even if it did highlight some challenges. Everyone starts somewhere though. 👍
@ijatpingrhybАй бұрын
Hi Dave how are your blades attached to the drive. Is it a bolt or clip system
@plasmaDaveАй бұрын
@@ijatpingrhyb I guess your would call it a clip. A pin goes through the tube of the cutter and the drive shaft with a clevis clip through the end of the pin.
@ijatpingrhybАй бұрын
@plasmaDave thanks mate
@HarrisonDaviesАй бұрын
matte pla is weaker than regular fyi 😊
@plasmaDaveАй бұрын
@@HarrisonDavies so I believe, it looks good though 👍
@HarrisonDaviesАй бұрын
don’t forget to calibrate the filament 😊
@ProudMary53Ай бұрын
Interesting video Dave. Bundy boy myself - I've just ordered the Bambu XC1 combo & will need to learn how to use it plus 360, but that will come in time though.
@plasmaDaveАй бұрын
The fusion learning curve is a bit steep but worth it in the end.
@Felix.GarciaАй бұрын
FYI, If you click the top and bottom surfaces when you shelled, you would have not had to delete that bottom feature.
@plasmaDaveАй бұрын
@@Felix.Garcia ah yes thanks I did know that at one time but these things slip the mind if you don't use them eh 🙄
@BundyBearsShedАй бұрын
Certainly goes way faster than mine.
@plasmaDaveАй бұрын
Time for a new one?
@BundyBearsShedАй бұрын
@plasmaDave I don't seem to have a lot to do with mine.
@drdoomslabАй бұрын
Nice one. I've been massively impressed with my P1S. I would recommend printing a riser for the top glass. The main reason is the tube rubs on the top glass and rubs away the tube / pits the glass. It will also allow you to have the front door closed for PLA as they have vents on them that you can open and close. and third you can put some extra lights in so you can see it printing better. And with the door closed and vents open its much quieter and it stays at around 35-37 depending on weather (am in the uk and no ac). Another good print is a little ramp for the front bottom just bellow the glass to allow easier clean-up. And finally some removal tools for some of the connectors on the back. Sometimes when you need to work on it removing these parts is a pain as the clips are facing the back wall of the printer so a tool is very useful. Look forward to more videos. Cheers.
@plasmaDaveАй бұрын
@@drdoomslab thanks for that, have watched a few videos on accessories. Which top vent did you use? There are so many to choose from.
@drdoomslabАй бұрын
@@plasmaDave I printed the "Siding Vents Riser" on maker world. Its low profile, has vents you can close / open, and is easy to print and you can still put the AMS on top if you want (mines on the side) and use the top glass. Just be slightly carful when lifting the glass as it can be tight and pull on the riser sometimes. I printed it a while back so used V1 but theres a V3 now. There is also a TPU gaskit but iv never printed it. Cheers.
@plasmaDaveАй бұрын
@drdoomslab thanks I'll go and search for it 👍
@andrewmoore5712Ай бұрын
Well that’s a jump in functionality and ease of use, hope you enjoy the P1S
@plasmaDaveАй бұрын
Certainly is a lot better, not perfect but nearly.
@stephensharma3259Ай бұрын
One more question. I have bsl mainboard also but it does not detect it
@plasmaDaveАй бұрын
@@stephensharma3259 you have paid for the extras plug in?
@stephensharma3259Ай бұрын
is that black acrylic then how does it engrave and turn out white
@plasmaDaveАй бұрын
@@stephensharma3259 yes black acrylic. It does turn it white. Not sure why but very effective.
@stephensharma3259Ай бұрын
@plasmaDave does this work on red as well? i tried on my galvo.. didnt have any effect
@plasmaDaveАй бұрын
@@stephensharma3259 not so good on other colours, it marks it but black is by far the best contrast.
@dimast.officialАй бұрын
hi, good video, i want to buy one on new year eve
@plasmaDaveАй бұрын
Am sure you will like it 👍
@dimast.officialАй бұрын
@plasmaDave im sure too
@dimast.officialАй бұрын
So waiting till new year!
@scottguy5452Ай бұрын
Your videos are excellent. Thanks
@plasmaDaveАй бұрын
You are far too kind but thanks 😊
@jameswebley5323Ай бұрын
Great video, thank you. I've got the exact same fault code. Wasn't sure how to diagnose the fault and this video has helped me by showing the ride height in the GapIID. Will follow this video to replace my air spring. Do I need to vent the air or will it do that when I take the line off?
@plasmaDaveАй бұрын
From memory I think you can empty it with the GAP tool and that's safer, but taking the line off will do it too. Support the car and wear eye protection naturally.
@jameswebley5323Ай бұрын
@@plasmaDave I'll have a look on the Gap tool. Thanks. Last question, genuine or OEM replacement? Thanks again for the video. 👍🏻
@plasmaDaveАй бұрын
@@jameswebley5323I used OEM better or worse but so far they have been fine 🤞
@jameswebley5323Ай бұрын
@@plasmaDave Got to be worth a shot. The price difference is quite substantial. Thanks very much for your help. 👍🏻
@paulbuxton5583Ай бұрын
Lance sent me here, nice instructive video, thanks for sharing, Paul.
@plasmaDaveАй бұрын
Welcome! 😊
@baptistetardy2133Ай бұрын
How much did the co2 machine ended up costing you pretty curious
@plasmaDaveАй бұрын
It's a bit hard to estimate, but it was a bit less than $3,000 Australian dollars plus the cost of the chiller. However, the hours it took to build it should not be underestimated. It was fun, though.
@JustaCuriousity2 ай бұрын
Hi, thank you so much for reviewing this UTI120S. Do you think its enough for starting electrician tool for thermal camera? UTI260 costs twice the price, cant afford fluke/flir.
@plasmaDave2 ай бұрын
I'd say yes obviously the more you pay the better but this really does work. I've found hot components on circuit boards with it and found out why my GPU on. PC kept cutting out. Was due too a bad connection. You can also get a lens for them for closer work.
@JustaCuriousity2 ай бұрын
Hi thank you very much for your information. I will mostly use on electrical panel and engine. May i ask one more question on is there ideal distance for the measurement?
@plasmaDave2 ай бұрын
@@JustaCuriousity you would need to check the manufacturers specifications for that I think
@JustaCuriousity2 ай бұрын
Alright, thank you so much
@FatAmericansGuide2 ай бұрын
Dave!!! Great Video. I am in the process of doing this to my 2016 L405 full sized. I only have 1 turbo, and there are a few funky things different on the L405. Do you mind if I reference your video in mine? I would be very appreciative - JDW
@BundyBearsShed2 ай бұрын
Ah you need a Landcruiser I reckon. 😂 There is a lot of plastic in there.
@plasmaDave2 ай бұрын
@@BundyBearsShed yes Ford did such a lovely job of the plastic 🙄
@LakshyaJangidStreams2 ай бұрын
Hey PlasmaDave 👋👋, awesome project! I'm planning to build a DIY metal cutting machine myself that can cut up to 40mm thick metal sheets, but I don't have much technical knowledge. Could you be more specific about what exactly is cutting the metal? Is it a fiber laser, plasma cutter, or something else? Also, could you suggest some major components I'll need for this kind of build? Your guidance would be super helpful. Thanks!
@plasmaDave2 ай бұрын
@@LakshyaJangidStreams hey there, this is a plasma cutter. To cut 40mm steel with a fiber laser you would be looking at at least a 20kw machine, well out of my experience.
@mynameiscarlosalbornoz2 ай бұрын
I have the z5-1 also. I was looking at the x-toolf1 and it's basically the same as minus the print size and the diode laser. X-Tool says the F1 can color engrave. Any suggestions how to do this with the z5-1?
@plasmaDave2 ай бұрын
Not something I've experimented with but it would be easier too run some tests using light burn. A combination of speed power and Hz I imagine. Is now on my to do list.
@christopher.angel.rivera30042 ай бұрын
Thank you for the Great Footage 🫡
@plasmaDave2 ай бұрын
No problem 👍
@TerryCarter-tv9et2 ай бұрын
Just completed this job today on my partner's 2012 Discovery 4 SDV6 (3.0), after deliberating whether to give the job to a local Land Rover specialist, having read and listened to the horror stories about removing the dastardly oil cooler. Being the eternal problem solver I decided not to let someone else have all the fun and so I started work first thing this morning (well 09.00 anyway!) and after a couple of hours of removing all the usual bits, I finally worked my way down to the oil cooler, at which point I sat down with a nice cuppa and took another good old gander at the official Land Rover digital video which explains the "Correct" removal procedure for the offending item. Refreshed by the brew and inspired by the video, I got back in the garage and started pushing and pulling and twisting as per the video (the oil cooler that is...). Surprisingly and possibly luckily, it would seem that if you study the video closely and jiggle the oil cooler constantly, as you're manoeuvring it exactly as per the video, it actually comes out!!! It's an incredibly tight fit, so much so that at no point during the extraction was it not touching the block or the manifolds, or a combination of the two. I'm not saying it was easy by any means but it is do-able.....just! I was quite prepared to cut the oil separator mounting bracket if needed, which ultimately gave me the confidence to do the job in the first place, so many thanks to Mr. PlasmaDrive for a truly great video.
@plasmaDave2 ай бұрын
That's awesome that you did it without the cut, I failed. My old wrists obviously don't have the necissary action or the patience or maybe the Landrover gods just smiled on you and not me 😮 now I'm faced with replacing inlet manifold anyway as it cracked just days after doing that job, but hey ho another video soon I guess. 😊
@TerryCarter-tv9et2 ай бұрын
@@plasmaDave I sympathise, the driver's side manifold cracked in May of last year (2023) and to be honest I really didn't fancy remortgaging the house when I got a quote (!!!) so I watched "LR Time" and made a smoke tester which enabled me to track down the crack very easily. Then I followed their example and made a metal plate and fixed it in place over the crack using high temperature JB Weld. My reasoning was that for a few dollars, I'd take a chance..... So far it's worked an absolute treat! It has not only sealed the crack but it's strenghhened the whole manifold substantially, I would say it's better than new and I don't say that lightly as I'm a fussy bugger at the best of times. So, my advice would be to watch LR Time's videos and for a total time of about 2 - 3 hours plus $125 you won't have a problem any more! 😊
@plasmaDave2 ай бұрын
@@TerryCarter-tv9et ah yes I've watched that video he didn't follow up and say how it's stood up over time though, good too hear yours has lasted. Am committed to the job now so will do it anyway. 👍
@leedavies6690Ай бұрын
@@plasmaDavehi u mentioned something broke on this in the end wot was it please as I just had my thermostat coolant outlet repaired and noticed this little black wire cut ?
@plasmaDaveАй бұрын
@@leedavies6690 The only thing that broke for me was a vacum tube, I repaired it with some silicon hose. if you like email me a picture of where it is on [email protected] I'll see if I can identify it.
@irootsk2 ай бұрын
i have mine cracked in exactly the same place... have you managed to glue it somehow or just replaced it with a new part?
@plasmaDave2 ай бұрын
Mine was a new part, they are laser welded or something, guess you could try glue but with all that oil and heat I don't know if it would work.
@tolgakaanakbas96222 ай бұрын
Thanks a lot for your brief video. Helps to much to solve the problem. Restricted performance massage disappear after cleaning mass air pressure sensor in my case. 🙏
@plasmaDave2 ай бұрын
That's good news 👍 I'm now about to change out a cracked inlet manifold on mine.
@plasmaDave2 ай бұрын
I've just discovered that in the step where I change the "start marking" port setting from 2 to none, if you instead set the option from high to low the button on the handle of the laser will start the current job 👍
@mattwhichie2 ай бұрын
We have booked this room for next Feb. Can't wait
@plasmaDave2 ай бұрын
Oh that's great we were happy with it 😊
@shelbytops2 ай бұрын
I just picked one up Darn thing will not start does not seem to have a strong spark
@plasmaDave2 ай бұрын
@@shelbytops hmmm these days my first suspicion would be the carburettor. Modern fuel goes off so quickly and gums it up. I always run mine dry after last use.
@shelbytops2 ай бұрын
@@plasmaDave thanks Dave This is a new one put new fule in it Checked the plug put new plug in still won't kick over
@plasmaDave2 ай бұрын
@@shelbytopsoh dear then apart from checking the kill wire (not sure if it even has one) it sounds like a dud. A long time ago now but mine fired up quickly as I remember.
@shelbytops2 ай бұрын
@@plasmaDave found the issue just needed to be topped up with oil then started first pull
@plasmaDave2 ай бұрын
@@shelbytops awesome, sometimes it's the simple things eh 😊
@mattguerini63243 ай бұрын
Just did this job yesterday (well the dismantle part) - very good video - saved me an hour of swear words trying to wiggle it out because it felt so close and almost achievable (I tried for 2 minutes) but I ended up doing the manifold trim instead. Mine was leaking oil externally via the little tell tale weep hole near the oil filter - means it was leaking past the gaskets internally. Your video helped me decide to do it myself after already paying a mechanic to replace my inlet manifold as they wrongly thought that was the source of the leak.
@plasmaDave3 ай бұрын
It is so tantalisingly close to coming out but you have to draw the line somewhere eh 👍
@plasmaDave2 ай бұрын
I have just taken the offending part apart, it turns out mine was also leaking from the weephole just behind the top water inlet. It was so dirty you couldn't see it when in the car.
@milo1233213 ай бұрын
Planned to do this job today and looked up what it entails one last time, great narration, camerawork and perfect timing for me. Thought I would also encounter the issue with the oil separator bracket, you've saved me a lot of shouting and swearing. Did you have any issues removing the glow plugs? Seen a few videos saying to get the engine hot before attempting removal
@plasmaDave3 ай бұрын
Thanks it was a trial. Fortunately I live in an area that doesn't suffer corrosion much so my glow plugs came out very easily even with a cold engine.
@plasmaDave3 ай бұрын
They wouldn't honour the in store credit 😢
@plasmaDave3 ай бұрын
Just noticed that I called the oil cooler an oil separator a few times 😮 old age I guess...