@@jonmendoza8596 Great question. 100% worth the investment, better precision & control, and you have the ability to fly full manual mode. I also prefer the two handed controls, as opposed to requiring all those hand and wrist movements with the motion controller, which is better for more casual flying. I’d recommend the RC3 👊🏼

@@mailmanmedia thank you 🙏🏼

@@시커먼선생Mr.Blackman thank you, likewise.

Алиэкспресс

Hey, thanks a lot 👊🏼

Oh no! Could have been because I was recording to the internal storage of the drone instead of the SD card by accident. Thank you for letting me know.

Most of the time people have inquiries about the drone, they aren't really ever concerned with me having a spotter, although I have started bringing a VO with me during my flights.

Hey, thanks for the question! So far, I've done about 38 battery cycles on the DJI Air 3. Honestly, the battery is still performing really well. I haven’t noticed any major drop in flight time yet, even after multiple charges. I’m getting around 35 min per charge, which is still solid for what I’m doing. I’ll definitely keep an eye on it and update if anything changes. Appreciate you watching and commenting!

@@mailmanmedia i also have another question that when i charged my all 3 battery so i keep it in battery hub or seprate??

I need to do this, I'm constantly landing in dirt, sand, grass, etc. Thanks for the tip!

@@mailmanmedia you bet!

Great question. Not sure.

Thank you so much for your thoughtful comment. DJI has made it so easy for anyone to start flying in full acro mode! That is the exact progression I did, as you can see in the video. I wish you the best of luck on your drone journey, remember to have fun!

DM me on IG @mailmanmedia

Haha, it happened to be on the top of my mind! Agreed. I remember watching so many FPV videos back in the day, and the remote pilot was always complaining about how short the battery life was. I definitely feel lucky to step into this niche after technology has improved so much. No rush brother, I'd recommend Liftoff for practice.

I truly appreciate your comment & concerns. I do hold a Part 107 so I can fly commercially. I also fly with a spotter for the most part. 100% of the time I make sure that airspace is clear, and I am not bothering anyone if there are people in these locations I am flying. It is also useful to strategize a flight path before launching that way I know it will be in line of sight and not lose connection.

Thanks a lot. I will put the .lut up for free on my website: liamjcoleman.com

@@mailmanmediai only see paid options ?

Aye thank you! Will do.

Thanks 👊🏼

🙌🏼

Aye thank you dog! Looks better, I agree.. but that built in EIS does save a little extra time

Hey, what's going on! Heck yea brother, I'm glad to hear that. The Drone Therapy show sounds dope I'm gonna check ya'll out, thanks for the subs, much love fr! & I currently don't have any carbon quads, looking to invest in one soon, 5inch for sure. Would you happen to have any recommendations for a 5inch?

What do you mean? What other drones to buy?

That is very unfortunate. Sad to hear that.. I bet there are some great spots to fly in Germany closer to the city too. I am licensed and registered, but I do know from experience that getting approval from airspace traffic control can be very difficult.

I did not turn off the sensors underneath. Very interesting, I'll be sure to keep this in mind.

Ah. I've been doing that for so long now. Usually end up having to clean em 🤣

Don't tell that to my avata 😅

Thanks!

Thank you for going more in depth on this. I'd like to see how long it actually can last, one of these days I'm going to time a flight.

@@mailmanmedia under ideal conditions, with standard settings, I'm pretty confident you won't make it beyond 40min. IDK how they actually do that test, maybe they override it or something, but you'll be forced to land before you can actually reach 0%. I never take it below 10%, but idk really how you could get it to use to 0%, while also STAYING airborne.

My man! I appreciate the comment. I actually used this technique at a shoot last week. There are some really cool shots you can get playing around with the digital zoom at 2x & even 3x in my opinion. Hype to edit the footage and show you what I was able to capture 👊🏼

👊🏼

I appreciate you for this! But I've tried connecting through wifi once.. didn't work, never attempted again... I'm gonna give it another try next flight!

@@mailmanmedia I did hear that the cable is more reliable though, I have gotten 'lag' before while flying.

Bingo. That works too, thanks.

Hey thanks a lot for the info. This is a great idea. I think Mema & anyone else spectating would appreciate that a lot. Gonna look into this 👊🏼

Yes, lumetri color. I use a custom LUT, lmk if you are interested!

Much appreciated! 👊🏼

It's really not a big deal at all. You're going to be using an ND filter anyways, and DoF and background separation/bokeh isn't really a thing with drones, especially with such small sensors. So, you're basically just using it to control the f stop for lighting only. In that case, if the aperature is basically just controlling exposure, ND filters will do exactly the same thing, and set your f stop where you want. They're already a must and you only need like 4 of them to cover most situations. Even the Mavic with the aperature only had has it on a single lens, so unless you're sticking to just wide angle shots, that aperature isn't offering much use. I mean, yeah, I WANT an adjustable aperature on ALL my lenses of ALL my drones. Of course I do. But, it's not gonna make or break a drone completely. The worst thing that could happen without an adjustable aperature, is the cloud covers the sun for a moment, or the sun pops out for a moment, and screws with the exposure for a moment depending on your current ND on. It's gonna happen eith the mini, the air, and 2/3 of the lenses on the Mavic. Really, the Mavic 3 classic is the drone that benefits the MOST from it, but you're stuck to a single sensor/focal length. And that's all for video. For photos, it's not that big of a deal at all, since you're not really in a position for background separation DoF, or good looking bokeh from a drone. It's just not what they do.

Thank you for the comment @dronetheworld4k67 And for your reply @brennanIX I agree with @brennanIX here for sure. As a drone pilot, I am not concerned with the lack of ability to adjust my aperture (for now). Mainly because I feel the actual composition alone is enough to be the subject of my shot, combined with the angles and movement. I am not looking to play with the DOF with my shots as much as I would on ground with my camera. At that point, the only other reason to adjust the f stop would be to adjust the exposure, which I can always do with ND filters.

@@mailmanmedia Yeah, I don't know which it is... either the Air 3 is GENEROUSLY underpriced, or the Mavic 3P is GREEDILY overpriced. The Air 3 RC-2 FMC can be had as low as $1,239. The RC-2 is basically like the RC Pro, but you lose slightly on the screen and a custom button, in exchange for a better transmission system. So, for a KINDA equivalent setup to the Air 3, it's like $3,900 for the Mavic 3P/RC Pro FMC, and the most impactful thing in that $1,200 vs $4,000 is 3x optical vs 7x optical. And the 7x sensor isn't that great. Most of the other aspects range from worse to competitive. The M3P is absolutely a great drone, but to me, it doesn't make sense when at $1,240, a newer drone exists that can offer 90% of the same real world performance, and makes up that difference by having some newer/better aspects. IDK if you're just paying for that Hasselblad name or what, but for the age of the Mavic 3, it seems WAY overpriced compared to their other offerings. Even if you had thousands to spare, it just feels like a bad deal to go with the Mavic. You could literally buy 3 of the best Air 3 combo for the same price as the Mavic The Drone/hardware of the Air 3 is equal/superior, so subtract the body and batteries alongside one Air 3 combo. So now... the Mavic's camera module ALONE is worth, TWO entire RC-2 FMCs of the Air 3? No way... the 7x isn't even THAT good, and the wide angle isn't THAT much better than the Air.

@@mailmanmedia i understand, but its extremely difficult changing ND filters when the drone is mid air when direction of drone changes and exposure changes too...

Yes, I was showing the difference how the shot looks out of the camera (D-LOG M) vs. Color Graded. I should have been more specific when comparing the two.

Good question.. I typically don't write a script, so I'm probably thinking about what I'm gonna say as I'm saying it (looking away or closing my eyes usually helps). Also, looking into the lens just gets boring

Thanks for the reply Well put a picture of your GF behind the camera 😂

@@eitanfine5185such a fire idea

Should have had an iPhone & cord handy.. next time

Hey, thanks my man! Glad you picked it up, remember to have fun with it. Go through all the tutorials on there, they help a lot.

I have never had a focus issue with mine. Focus has been really sharp and quick. Maybe you should get yours serviced.

@@sg1770 Mine has been this way since I bought it.

I'm very sorry to hear that. What camera settings are you shooting in? Personally, I have yet to have a problem with the focus since I've been flying the Air 3. Both the 24mm and 70mm lenses also have fixed apertures of f/1.7 & f/2.8 respectively, so I feel like there isn't much to play around with to fix this besides getting it serviced.

I observed same as you about the matter too

@@mailmanmedia I sent it to be serviced but it will be a long wait due to parts shortages. My issue is that initially they were resistant to looking at the issue. All the money spent on the drone it should simply work.

Thanks!

That's hilarious.. I completely agree

Gotta use that Picture in Picture setting next time!